It has suddenly occurred to me that I have been quite silent the past couple of months, and since this is entirely contrary to my character I thought I'd better do something before Trinity, Liz, Karl and some of the others got the wrong opinion and gave me up for dead. Over the past years and months there have been a variety of discussions about what to do with old cracked and loose plastered walls and ceilings, and unfortunately there seemed to be a consensus of opinion that they should be ripped from their frames and replaced with "sheet-rock," which at best is a cheap imitation for a structural wall covering. In only the worse case situations is this either necessary or IMHO advisable. Keeping in mind that dry wall is little more than a Plaster-of-Paris core between two paper walls. Only high end homes can afford to be finished with plaster these days, dry wall is used for everything else, so save what you have that only the wealthy can now afford. First let me establish the case for good solid plaster walls. Rock, which is what plaster is, is a great temperature reservoir and a plastered house will hold its temperature far longer than will a structure of equal size that is dry walled. Second, all that lath and the associated plaster covering adds a significant degree of structural integrity to the home. Third, plastered homes are quieter, and less subject to vibration just due to the mass of the "rock" contained within the structure. And fourth but not least of all these advantages is the fact that plaster can be resurfaced over and over again with paint or paper without destroying the original surface. Plaster that is cracked is easily repaired, but not with mud or plaster patch but instead try using, paint-able acrylic latex clear or white caulking compound. This is an excellent adhesive and when pressed into the scraped and prepared cracks will give with the movement of the structure and prevent the crack from reopening. In the case of large cracks or those that are slightly offset, even after reattaching "see next section," cover with mesh dry wall tape and smooth just as you would dry wall mud. Once the latex is dry cover with mud if necessary to compensate for shrinkage, then sand and paint or texture. I also use the latex to fill in large nail holes and other imperfections. Another trick is to run a small bead of white latex down each corner and around the corner between the walls and ceiling, taking care to smooth with a wet finger and wiping away any excess with a damp cloth. Reattaching loose plaster: It seems that the fear or reality of a chunk of loose plaster falling from a wall or ceiling has spelled the demise of many a good plaster wall or ceiling. These minor imperfections are easily repaired and that good old plaster can be salvaged to live another day, or century as the case may be. It is easy to find these loose spots by tapping lightly with a " soft faced" hammer an listening for the difference when a loose section is located. Next drill small holes, "no larger than 1/4 inch" about every three inches apart over the loose section, using a masonry bit, "masonry bits do not drill wood very well." The trick here is to penetrate the plaster and hit the lath under neath without drilling through the lath. If you hit a gap between laths, move up or down about 3/4 inch and drill again, marking the first hole so that you don't try to use it in the next operation. After you have drilled all the holes, cut the tip on a tube of acrylic latex caulk so that it just fits snuggly into the hole and pump about a tablespoon of caulk into each hole. In the case of plaster that is bulged or that has caused an offset crack it will be necessary to apply pressure against the repair for about 12 hours until the caulk has set. In the case of a ceiling repair, a sheet rock jack or jack post can be used, while in the case of a vertical wall an angled brace that is either pushed against a cleat attached to the floor or that is of sufficient length to be pressed against an opposing wall will need to be used. A board or piece of plywood sufficient to cover the repair is used to distribute the pressure across the repaired area. NOTE: this is important: You must use either a sheet of waxed paper or waxed butcher paper between the board and the wall, "waxed side to the repair," or use a board that has been hot waxed using paraffin applied with a heat gun to prevent the board from becoming a permanent part of the repaired surface. Acrylic latex caulk is an excellent adhesive, far better than liquid nails which hardens and becomes brittle over time. In the case of an offset crack that cannot be pressed back into perfect alignment, not to worry, simply tape and cover with a coat of smoothed latex, and then mud and sand to perfection. We just completed a house in which the plaster looked like an old lady, "or old man, but old men are supposed to look that way," that had spent too much time in direct sunlight, and the walls now look and feel like new. "Shoot if you must This old gray head, But save that plaster wall, The craftsman said." Dale