DIY Snow Removal

2008-09-30 17:28:54

I am looking for some opinions re: snow removal equipmnet. My house has no sidewalk, but does have a 100+ foot driveway and a ~50 walkway. The driveway is a one car wide drive. I have the opportunity to buy either: 1. a snow blade/wheel weights/chains for my Craftsman 17.5 HP, lawn tractor, or 2. a snow blower, lower end model because I don't have $1k to spend on a snow blower. What would be the best investment to remove snow to let us get out of the drive (most important) and clear the walkway to the front door. Thanks for the help. Tom

Mold Prevention

2008-09-30 08:16:28

If you're treating for mold in limited areas, I have a suggestion for a great product. I used to get mold on my windowsills as a result of condensation. I bought a product called No More Mildew from National Allergy Supply and it works great. Clean up the mold with soap and then bleach, as suggested in the previous post, and then apply No More Mildew. The directions say to spray it, but I've had good results using a brush. The bottle suggest reapplying every year, but one year I didn't get around to doing it, and the windowsills stayed mold-free. The number for NAS is 1-800-522-1448. The stuff spreads on thinly and goes a long way; the gallon size has lasted me for 10 years! Sue R

[DIY] applying peel and stick vinyl flooring over existing lino

2008-09-30 07:30:23

Years ago I did a bathroom floor with these. Soon after that we sold the house. The inspector made us have them replaced, although they were new, with the regular vinyl sheet flooring. That may depend on where you live. And if you are staying in the house then it's no one's business and should be fine. I just put them over the old vinyl and it seemed to work fine. Sunny

applying peel and stick vinyl flooring over existing linoleum

2008-09-29 22:52:58

OK, I am just looking for a fix until I can do hardwoods in my kitchen (it will probably be a couple of years) - rest of the house is hardwoods. My kitchen is 90 sq. feet, so I can do it for $30. Now my question is, can I actually do this? The linoleum that is in the kitchen now has a number of knicks and stains and I hate it with a passion. It is white with blue highlights and ALWAYS looks dirty, even after being freshly mopped. What problems would I encounter with putting vinyl peel and stick squares over the existing stuff? Thanks! Colleen

painting the ceiling

2008-09-29 17:13:37

If anyone is going to paint a ceiling I highly recommend getting that ceiling paint that goes on one color and dries white! My wonderful family "helped" me paint the ceiling in 2 bedrooms today, I had to go behind them and fix it. They painted some spots and left others with no paint. I won't do that again LOL suzie

"Cutltured" mable sink crazing

2008-09-29 13:04:57

This is a all in one vanity and sink. I've noticed a bunch of small crazing cracks in the bowl of the sink, they're showing up gray angainst the cream, I assume just from dirt. At one intersection of the crazing marks a small piece of the top coat has lifted off. Any ideas what I can use to clean the dirt out of these fine cracks without causing more problems and then is there any kind of sealer I can use to prevent thi from happening further. Thanks, Marci

[DIY] Re: Basic outdoor lighting help

2008-09-29 05:17:50

I've got to agree with Tom. One thing that was attractive about our house when we bought it was that the backyard was so good for setting up our telescope. Dark skies in other words. That was ruined by flood lights added to a nearby church. The neighbor's house was left empty with a floodlight aimed at our bedroom windows. We couldn't sleep. We rarely bother to take the telescope out anymore so a lot of what we valued about this place is gone. Lights should aim down, never up or out. What's the point of lighting up the sky or the neighboring houses. Please consider the neighbors when you put in lights. I've had to put in new window shades and it's still not enough. This is a subject I wish a lot more people and businesses would become educated about. Of course some people won't care. Sunny

removing stripped screw from faucet

2008-09-29 00:13:07

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get this screw unstuck? It is stripped out and I have been trying with a good size quality flathead screwdriver. The shower faucet is leaking so I've got to fix it. Thanks, Neal "Love is when Mommy sees Daddy on the toilet and she doesn't think it's gross." Mark - age 6

Hot Water Cloudy

2008-09-28 15:48:42

My hot water has started coming out real cloudy, actually milky looking. But if I put it in a glass, after a few minutes it clears up completely. Does this mean the hot water tank is going bad? Is the water safe to drink or cook with? I've never noticed it being this bad in the past. ===== <- Richard - (All Outgoing Mail Scanned by Norton Antivirus )

Frequently Asked Questions About Mold.

2008-09-28 13:47:07

Got Mold? Frequently Asked Questions About Mold What are molds? With more than 100,000 species in the world, it is no wonder molds can be found everywhere. Neither animal or plant, molds are microscopic organisms that produce enzymes to digest organic matter and spores to reproduce. These organisms are part of the fungi kingdom, a realm shared with mushrooms, yeast, and mildews. In nature, mold plays a key role in the decomposition of leaves, wood, and other plant debris. Without mold, we would find ourselves wading neck-deep in dead plant matter. And we wouldn't have great foods and medicines, such as cheese and penicillin. However, problems arise when mold starts digesting organic materials we don't want them to, like our homes. How do molds grow in my home? Once mold spores settle in your home, they need moisture to begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on. There are molds that can grow on wood, ceiling tiles, wallpaper, paints, carpet, sheet rock, and insulation. When excess moisture or water builds up in your home from say, a leaky roof, high humidity, or flooding, conditions are often ideal for molds. Longstanding moisture or high humidity conditions and mold growth go together. Realistically, there is no way to rid all mold and mold spores from your home; the way to control mold growth is to control moisture. How can I be exposed to mold? When molds are disturbed, their spores may be released into the air. You then can be exposed to the spores through the air you breath. Also, if you directly handle moldy materials, you can be exposed to mold and mold spores through contact with your skin. Eating moldy foods or hand-to-mouth contact after handling moldy materials is yet another way you may be exposed. Back to the top How can molds affect my health? Generally, the majority of common molds are not a concern to someone who is healthy. However if you have allergies or asthma, you may be sensitive to molds. You may experience skin rash, running nose, eye irritation, cough, congestion, and aggravation of asthma. Also if you have an immune suppression or underlying lung disease, you may be at increased risk for infections from molds. When necessary, some resourceful molds produce toxins in defense against other molds and bacteria called mycotoxins. Depending on exposure level, these mycotoxins may cause toxic effects in people, also. Fatigue, nausea, headaches, and respiratory and eye irritation are some symptoms that may be experienced from exposure to mycotoxins. If you or your family members have health problems that you suspect are caused by exposure to mold, you should consult with your physician. How do I know if I have a mold problem? You may have seen white thread-like growths or clusters of small black specks along your damp bathroom or basement walls, or smelled a "musty" odor Seeing and smelling mold is a good indication that you have a mold problem. However, you cannot always rely upon your senses to locate molds. Hidden mold can be growing behind wall coverings or ceiling tiles. Common places to find mold are in areas where water has damaged building materials and furnishings perhaps from flooding or plumbing leaks. Mold can also be found growing along walls where warm moist air condenses on cooler wall surfaces, such as inside cold exterior walls, behind dressers, headboards, and in closets where articles are stored against walls. Rooms with both high water usage and humidity, such as kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and basements are often havens for mold. If you notice mold or know of water damaged areas in your home, it is time to take action to control it's growth. Back to the top How can I control mold growth in my home? Fix any moisture problems in your home: Stop all water leaks first. Repair leaking roofs and plumbing fixtures. Move water away from concrete slabs and basement walls. Increase air circulation within your home, especially along the inside of exterior walls, and ventilate with fresh air from outside. Provide warm air to all areas of the home. Move large objects away from the inside of exterior walls just a few inches to provide good air circulation. Install and use exhaust fans in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. Ventilate and insulate attic and crawl spaces. Cover earth floors in crawl spaces with heavy plastic. Clean and dry water damaged carpets, clothing, bedding, upholstered furniture within 24 to 48 hours, or consider removing and replacing damaged furnishings. Vacuum and clean your home regularly. Back to the top How do I clean up mold? The time you are most likely to stir up spores and be exposed is the very time you are trying to clean up your mold problem. That's when you need to be the most careful. First, try to determine the extent of the mold infestation. If the area is small and well defined, clean up can be done by you, as long as you are free of any health symptoms or allergies. However, if the mold problem is extensive, such as between the walls or under the floors, you should leave clean up to a professional. Large Areas1.Consider having a professional cleanup the area. To find a professional, check under "Fire and Water Damage Restoration" in your Yellow Pages. If you decide to clean up on your own, follow the guidance below. 2.Protect yourself by using goggles, gloves, and breathing protection while working in the area. For large consolidated areas of mold growth, you should use an OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration) approved particle mask. 3.Seal off area from the rest of your home. Cover heat registers or ventilation ducts/grills. Open a window before you start to clean up. 4.Remove all your furnishings to a neutral area to be cleaned later. Follow cleaning directions below. 5.Bag all moldy materials, you will be discarding. 6.Scrub all affected hard surfaces: First with a mild detergent solution, such as laundry detergent and warm water. Then use a solution of ¼ cup bleach to one quart of water. Wait 20 minutes and repeat. Wait another 20 minutes. Last apply a borate-based detergent solution and do not rinse. This will help prevent mold from growing again. To find a borate-based detergent, read the ingredients listed on the package label for borates. 7.Give the entire area a good cleaning. Vacuum floors, and wash bedding and clothes if exposed. Small Areas 1.Protect yourself by using goggles, gloves, and breathing protection while working in the area. For small isolated areas of mold growth, a cotton dust mask should do. 2.Seal off area from the rest of your home. Cover heat registers or ventilation ducts/grills. Cover all your furniture. Open a window before you start clean up. 3.Bag all moldy materials, you will be discarding. 4.Scrub all affected hard surfaces: First with a mild detergent solution, such as laundry detergent and warm water. Then use a solution of ¼ cup bleach to one quart of water. Wait 20 minutes and repeat. Wait another 20 minutes. Last apply a borate-based detergent solution and do not rinse. This will help prevent mold from growing again. To find a borate-based detergent, read the ingredients listed on the package label for borates. 5.Give the entire area a good cleaning, vacuum floors, and wash bedding and clothes if exposed. Clean all furnishings exposed to mold. Permeable and washableSuch as clothing, bedding, and other washable articles Simply run through the laundry. Non-permeable and washableSuch as wood, metal, plastic, glass, and ceramics. Mix a solution of one cap bleach to one quart of water. Bleach may fade colors, so test your beach solution before using. If fine, wipe down your articles. Permeable but not washableSuch as beds and furniture. If these furnishings are moldy you should consider discarding and replacing them. If you decide it is a keeper, take the furnishing outside. Give it a good vacuuming, and let it air out. When finished, if you do not notice an odor it should be okay. However, watch for any mold growth or health problems. Who can I contact for more information? Should you need additional information on mold, please contact Tim Hardin of the Washington State Department of Health at (360) 236-3363 or tim.hardin@....

Mold Beyond Walls and Ceilings

2008-09-28 05:57:55

By Chip Macdonald If a worker is infected with disease from over contamination to mold, be prepared and know how to handle the situation. The ongoing research, litigation and debate concerning the health effects of mold exposure continue to occupy the laboratories, courtrooms and the press. The novelty of a new alarm in the trades is always intriguing and the controversy will probably not end soon. Not every black stain bleeding through the wall is necessarily a mold colony or even hazardous. These days, however, just the slightest hint of mold can cause a real estate deal to fold or a construction job to grind to an expensive halt. But talk to someone who has actually been diagnosed with a mold-related respiratory disease and it soon becomes clear that, for some individuals, molds can change your life forever. Symptoms While fungus infections and related diseases may not disable a great number of American construction workers, many cases undoubtedly go unreported or are misdiagnosed as another upper respiratory tract infection. A recent Harvard Medical study concluded that in 10,000 homes, mold exposure was associated with a 50 to 100 percent increase in respiratory distress symptoms. Other studies suggest that molds contribute significantly to a 300-percent or more increase in asthma diagnoses in the past 20 years. Many people allergic to molds, mildew and fungus, exhibit a wide range of irritating, acute symptoms, such as asthma, skin rashes, fatigue, irritability and congestion. More severe symptoms may include coughing, nausea, headaches, arthritic aches and joint pain. The initial exposure symptoms are often flu-like and not until the diseases become advanced is a diagnosis of a mold-induced disease even made. However mycotoxins (poisonous mold byproducts) are very destructive and often produce chronic symptoms such as impaired breathing, memory loss, hearing, speech and eyesight degradation, loss of balance and even epileptic-like seizures and brain damage. Recently, there have been several mold-infested sick buildings in my own rural upstate New York community that were discovered during either renovation, demolition or re-roofing projects. Several of the local workers involved were infected, diagnosed and are now recovering with some very serious and long-term health effects of aspergilliosis. This respiratory disease is caused by exposure to the black mold in the genus aspergillus. I know of several other cases that may have been misdiagnosed or gone unreported, as the symptomology can be misleading. While many species of mold are tropical and subtropical in origin, many others are adaptable to our northern climates as well, especially when an insulated envelope is constructed and heated during the cold months. Warm, moist inside air traveling against a cold surface condenses into liquid (usually within the insulation envelope) and is trapped by various building materials preventing evaporation. Most of us do not observe this trapped water vapor as it condenses, freezes and thaws season after season. It is most often discovered by the contractor during a renovation or repair project. The tighter we envelope our homes and workplaces, the more difficult it becomes to control moisture migration. Molds are colonial by nature and must expand their limits to survive. Molds can grow nowhere unless a dependable source of moisture is available. Aspergillus (black mold) While most molds and fungi are benign, slightly irritating or even beneficial (penicillin and blue cheese), some are very toxic to humans. The class of pathogenic molds that present the greatest hazard to workers involved with additions and wall/ceiling penetrations, interior renovations, and especially demolition are classified as black molds. This group includes stachybotrys chartarum, cladosporium, aspergillus fumigtus (and more than 50 other species), fusarium, trichoderma, penicillium and memnoniella. Of this group, the stachbotrys, penicillium and aspergillus are the most common in residential, commercial and even industrial structures. Most large municipality and state departments of health have researched and developed public health protocols to address these indoor environmental contaminants, including testing and assessment techniques, remediation procedures and hazard communication policies. There are also federal agencies that are concerned with the health effects of molds, such as OSHA, NIOSH, CDC and EPA Most large universities also support widespread mold investigation and research that can be accessed by way of their Web sites. While some species may produce organ-specific physical reactions (eyes, ears nose, throat and lungs), it is the fungal mycotoxins and volatile organic compounds that are produced as metabolites, which pose the greatest harm to the exposed worker. The fungus (or any fragment of mycelia) spore or metabolite that is inhaled may prove invasive and quite infectious. It is commonly assumed that airborne particles less than 50 microns in diameter, which are inhaled may bypass the cilia in our trachea, our mucous membranes in our nose and throat and travel down the brachial tubes to our lungs air sacs (aveoli). Here, the transfer of oxygen and carbon dioxide occurs through surrounding capillary cell walls. The diameter of most mold spores is fewer than four microns (250,000 on a pin-head), which makes them very aggressive. These spores are also very opportunistic, as the lung is also a dark, warm, moist and confined space. Molds may colonize from the brachial tree to the aveoli, producing debilitating plugs consisting of mold hyphae and fibrin. This typically causes a high chest pain and a non-productive cough, with blood-tinged sputum, which often mimics tuberculosis. As with the inhalation of asbestos fibers or silica particles, the body reacts to molds by sending macrophages in the bloodstream to ingest and destroy these invaders. When ingested by these cells, the mycotoxins destroy the marcophage and lung scarring becomes a common defense. This eventually reduces the average 32 square feet of lung tissue capable of transmitting oxygen to the blood and CO2 to the lungs. Less oxygen to the cells causes brain and tissue damage. Acidic carbon dioxide builds up in the blood and tissues leading to fatigue and potential collapse. Diagnosis and treatment A large volume inhalation of mold spores may cause a disorder known as organic dust toxic syndrome or farmers lung. Acute symptoms may often present within four to eight hours after exposure and include fatigue, chills, shortness of breath, painful tight chest, headache, increasing weakness, fever and sweating, suppressed appetite, and thick phlegm and chronic coughing. Sometimes, repeated low-volume exposures to these spores may cause hypersensitivity pneumonitis, which compromises the immune system and may cause permanent lung damage. Pulmonary hemorrhages in the developing lungs of infants has also been diagnosed from mold spores. Aspergiliosis is a disease, which left untreated, may in some individuals even result in cerebral hemorrhage and fatality. The disease may be segregated into three separate diagnoses: Disseminated Aspergillosis: This acute infection produces a range of effects including septicemia, thrombosis and infarction of the lungs, heart, kidneys and brain. It is diagnosed by chest X-rays, which reveal crescent shaped radiodlucency surrounding a circular mass (mycelium). This debilitating disease may also cause other infections, including pneumonia, endocarditis (heart valve), dyspnea (gag response), lung abscesses and brain abscess. Allergic Aspergillosis: This is a hypersensitive asthmatic reaction to the aspergillus antigens in the blood system. It is typically diagnosed by sputum examination and laboratory culture (two weeks). This disease may lead to opportunistic infections, including sinusitis and ear infections. It is often accompanied with pleural pain and fever. Aspergillosis Endopthalmitis: This infection of either the anterior or posterior chambers of the eye, which may cause temporary or permanent blindness if left untreated. Associated infections often include corneal keratitis. As aspergillosis is non-transmittable between individuals, it does not require patient isolation or quarantine. Disseminated aspergillus is typically treated by an aggressive antifungal course of intravenous Amphotericin B for two to three weeks, local surgical excision of lesions and chest physiotherapy (coughing) to improve pulmonary function. There are hospitals and treatment centers (mostly located along populated river valleys) that specifically diagnose and treat mold-related diseases and disorders. It has been noted by specialists that psychological depression is often common with patients with mold-induced diseases as the treatment often includes long and intense periods of hospitalization and rehabilitation. The debilitating effects of respiratory distress and intoxification often extend beyond the initial treatment period. Many mold-induced disease victims are even considered at high-risk for re-infection at much lower spore concentrations. Regular, semi-annual cardio-pulmonary check-ups are strongly recommended for mold victims for the first few years after treatment. In some states, this is often legally considered an extenuating health-related circumstance, keeping many workers compensation files open for the lifetime of the victim. Sidebar Mold testing and analysis As a construction contractor, you are not expected to obtain a graduate degree in microbiology or mycology in order to protect your employees or your business. However, your written contract should contain a non-disclosure clause that is adequately phrased to reduce your liability and release your obligations to perform your contract when undisclosed conditions involving hazardous materials (including biohazards) are discovered or suspected. You may even require the property owner or prime contractor to perform definitive environmental testing and analysis prior and post to your commencing work when any hazmat is suspected. At that point you may even choose to abate the mold hazard yourself in the performance of your roofing or demolition project. In the state of New York where I live, there is no state-certification program for mold abatement contractors. While the National Institute of Safety and Health and the Center for Disease Control have a detailed protocol and policy for mold remediation, most state and local governments have remained uncommitted to legislate in this area. However, if another contractor or owner is undertaking the removal of black mold infested materials from your project, before you start you should have copies of the lab tests taken prior and post abatement. In most cases, if the gross contamination of mold is observed (either a musty, anaerobic smell dark black stain on building materials, etc.) and a worker is showing any of the initial exposure symptoms, you may proceed as if there is a hazardous mold exposure. However, due to the cost and delay factors of abatement, the owner or prime contractor may argue that these symptoms and observations do not conclusively prove the presence of harmful molds. Therefore, testing may be required. Testing may be either performed by bulk sampling or air test procedures and follow these minimal, non-inclusive parameters: Testing may be practiced when mold is suspected (smelled) but not observed Testing (air or grab sampling) should not be practiced in a manner that agitates the mold or unnecessarily exposes unprotected workers. Ventilation shut off and windows closed for still-air conditions. Tests may either be taken by individual test kits, which are mailed back to a lab for testing or analysis, or else performed by a certified industrial hygienist for a reputable environmental testing agency. In any case, you should protect your workers and your firm, by thorough documentation, photographs and daily work logs sufficiently detailed to enable you to adequately reconstruct the work shift three years later. Air monitoring may not be necessary, except in the diagnosis of either aspergilliosis or stachybotriosis in a worker. Air tests should be concurrently taken at any natural air inlet into the affected space to eliminate the possibility of cross contamination. Personnel performing the tests shall be: a) Medically examined to ensure capable to enter area. b) Thoroughly trained and evaluated in biohazard awareness and hazmat decontamination procedures. c) Fit-tested for and supplied with the appropriate personal protective equipment for the hazard level assumed. Analysis of test results must be made by either a professional accredited by the American Industrial Hygiene Association or by a lab certified by the Environmental Microbiology Laboratory Accreditation Program. Sidebar Remediation and disposal If you choose to undertake mold remediation as part of a renovation/demolition project, there are definitive actions that should be taken. Special emphasis should be placed on comprehensive and hands-on training of abatement personnel before exposing them to the health hazards. Often, a simple exposure can produce medical conditions that affect their lives for years to come. They should also have access to the best professional equipment available, including fit-tested respirators, level B protective clothing, and task-specific tools such as moisture meter, remote cavity biohazard samplers, fiber optic scopes, cassettes for sampling airborne aerosols, and decontamination supplies, just to name a few. A written, site-specific mold abatement plan should be developed by the employer and every member of the abatement team should be trained in its specific procedures, as well as their own assigned tasks. Removal of mold-contaminated materials (such as insulation, framing, plaster and gypsum board) and post-demo handling methods, should be conducted using a pre-determined set of safe work practices including engineering controls (encapsulation, barriers, ventilation), administrative controls (training, controlled access zones, shared exposures, decontamination, vapor proof waste containers) and finally personal protective equipment (level B clothing, respirators, supplied air).The species of the mold and the size (volume) of the abatement area are crucial to determining an adequate abatement plan. The reaction time is also crucial with molds, due to their rapid and aggressive colonization patterns. The amount of exposure time and extent of disturbance is critical. As with any poison, dosage is calculated by multiplying the concentration (particles per cubic centimeter) times the length of exposure. The ease with which we may be exposed by several inhalations, emphasizes the need for writing and practicing an efficient mold abatement plan. Water leaks and accumulation should always be stopped immediately as moisture is essential to growth and the production of spores. Relative humidity should be tested and maintained below 60 percent (40 percent is ideal) to inhibit mold growth. Always remember the goal of remediation is to remove or clean contaminated materials by methods that prevent the emission of fungi particles and spores that may contaminate clean areas or infect workers. Whenever gross fungal growth is observed, or even suspected, by anyone on the job site, the property owner should be immediately notified. The owner should then proceed according to hazard communication methods to notify all affected employers on the work site. These employers, such as an interior finish contractor, should likewise notify and evaluate his workers. If remediation is required, then all affected employees should be included in pre-abatement meetings with a disclosure of all the procedures in the mold abatement plan. A simple diagnostic mold culture test kit can achieve certified laboratory analysis and species identification for approximately $30 in five to seven days. A more expensive airborne particulate test will indicate the sample concentration of mold (in spores/cc). This is a particularly important post-mitigation test to determine the level of success of the abatement. Knowledge and preparation is the best health defense for the contractor. Medical records and symptomatic post-exposure records should be diligently recorded. Any employees with persistent health problems related to bioaerosols should be referred to a professional medical practitioner, trained in mycological diagnosis and treatment. Thorough hazard communication is the essential key to a biohazard, such as black mold. Widespread mold contamination during construction demolition or inspection can prove to be an aggressive and opportunistic source of infection from just a brief exposure. For some individuals it appears a single exposure to concentrated black mold or fungus colonies growing in confined spaces behind the wall or ceiling during demolition may be dangerous. Training and experience in mold awareness and identification, as well as the ability to take prompt corrective measures, such as evacuating the affected area, are the prerequisites for a competent person on the job. Make sure your supervisors and job foremen are aware of the health hazards of molds and fungi on their projects and are adequately trained to identify potential conditions for mold growth. The odds of mold contamination on most jobs are minimal but it only takes a single, deep breath of contaminated air for some individuals to become infected. So, take the time to become trained in mold hazards and the appropriate emergency action plan. Endeavor to keep the lines of communication open from each worker, through site supervision, straight to your office and the effects of black mold health hazards will be minimized. Sidebar The basic recommended levels of mold and fungus remediation LEVEL I: Small isolated areas (10 square feet or less) such as ceiling tiles small area of wall gypsum board. Abatement workers may be appropriately Hazard-Awareness-trained maintenance personnel. Provide NIOSH N95 respirators, gloves and protective clothing in accordance to OSHA standards. Evacuating non-essential personnel (with medical evaluations). Dust suppression procedures (misting) by 100-percent containment is not required. Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed in double sealed plastic bags. Check state requirements for disposal of moldy materials. Visibly free from contamination/debris. LEVEL II: Mid-sized isolated areas (10 to 30 square feet), such as several pieces of gypsum wallboard. Abatement workers may be appropriately hazard-awareness trained maintenance personnel. Provide NIOSH N95 respirators, gloves and protective clothing in accordance to OSHA standards. Evacuating non-essential personnel (with medical evaluations). Cover work area with plastic sheet with taped seams to contain dust. Dust suppression procedures (misting) is recommended. Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed in double sealed plastic bags. Check state requirements for disposal of moldy materials. Areas used by workers for egress should be HEPA vacuumed and cleaned with antimicrobial detergent, and left dry and visibly free from contamination/debris. LEVEL III: Large isolated area (30 to 100 square feet) such as several wall board panels. An experienced microbial-certified safety and health professional to be consulted prior to remediation to develop abatement plan. Abatement workers may be appropriately Hazard-Awareness-trained maintenance personnel. Provide NIOSH N95 respirators, gloves and protective clothing in accordance with OSHA standards. Evacuating non-essential personnel (with medical evaluations). Cover work area with plastic sheet with taped seams to contain dust and seal adjacent HVAC systems. Dust suppression procedures (misting) is recommended. Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed in double sealed plastic bags. Check state requirements for disposal of moldy materials. Work area used by workers for egress should be HEPA vacuumed and work area cleaned with antimicrobial detergent and left dry and visibly free from contamination/debris. If abatement method is expected to produce a lot of dust, such as by abrasive cleaning or demolition or the fungi is very visible in heavy blanket or pocket concentrations, then Level IV remediation procedures should be followed. LEVEL IV: Extensive contamination (more than 100 square feet contiguous area) or any exposure that resulted in a positive medical diagnosis of a mold-related disease of condition. An experienced microbial-certified safety and health professional to be consulted prior to remediation to develop abatement plan. Pre-entry and continuous air monitoring recommended. Abatement workers should obtain advanced mold hazard and decontamination training for experienced, professional abatement personnel. Provide NIOSH N100 respirators, disposable gloves and protective clothing that covers head, feet and hands in accordance to OSHA standards. Evacuating non-essential personnel (with medical evaluations). Completely isolate work area with plastic sheet with taped seams to contain dust and seal adjacent HVAC systems. Provide NIOSH approved exhaust fan with HEPA filter to generate negative pressure to sealed work area. Design and provide adequate airlocks and decontamination room. Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed in double sealed plastic bags. Clean outside of bags in decon chamber with HEPA vacuum (99 percent efficiency) prior to transport to uncontaminated area of building. Check state requirements for disposal of moldy materials. Contained work area used by workers for egress should be HEPA vacuumed and work area cleaned with antimicrobial detergent and left dry and visibly free from contamination/debris. Post-abatement air monitoring prior to reoccupation is also recommended. Chip Macdonald of Best Safety, Saratoga Springs, N.Y., offers safety program implementation and management tailored to companies of all sizes.

Solution to mold problem...

2008-09-28 00:36:12

I am moving! Yep, I'm giving up this house I am buying and getting the heck out of Dodge. I made this decision today and am going to find a place to rent and be out on Tuesday the 1st. I can't afford to gut this place or risk our health any longer. I am sending a couple things I found that talks about it more in depth. Thanks, Marty

Basic outdoor lighting help

2008-09-27 22:14:03

Hello. I'd like to improve the lighting on the front of my house. Currently, there is only the motion-activated light by the door, the rest of the house is dark. I wish to make it more attractive from the street. The house is 60 ft. across, or 41 ft. not counting the garage-door section. Basically, I need to get an idea of how many spotlights to get, how bright (50w? less?), and any basic placement ideas. Which sections are better left unlit (windowless, garage, etc.)? Sorry if these sound like elementary questions, I'd rather ask now than make a mistake. Thanks!

non-paintable silicon ? HELP

2008-09-27 06:27:53

my ex used non-paintable silicon ALL over the place. how do I get rid of the stuff (stucco walls are not easy to scrape & sand) or how do I paint over it? Please help.

[DIY]Metal Roofs

2008-09-27 03:16:07

I have never had a metal roof but they are quite common in the more rural areas here also. I have an aquaintance that had a metal roof installed about 6 years ago. There has never been any problem with noise. She did reinsulate when the roof went in but, I have never heard rain when I was in her home. Rebecca in Northern California

Roofing material

2008-09-27 01:51:43

It's time for us to redo the roof. We live in a rural area and I notice more and more houses sporting metal roofs. Any pros/cons on metal roofing versus the asphalt shingles? Thanks, Roger

Test-Ignore

2008-09-26 12:21:36

For those who read this, I changed my email today (finally got DSL...love the speed, but can't seem to get our LAN on board) and have not received any DIY group posts, so just checking. Kati

Got me woodstove fire proof wall

2008-09-26 12:16:37

I just got the brick laid for the fire wall for my woodstove. You can see it in the photos "Fred's Woodstove. Fred

Is my roof bad???

2008-09-26 10:07:21

Hey everyone. We had our roof replaced about 5 months ago. They did a complete tear off, replaced 5 sections of wood and put new tiles back on. I have 2 sky lights. They offered to replace them with new ones from HD, but stated the old ones weren't bad, just old (house built in 1987). They specifically said the sky lights were not leaking. Before we had the roof replaced, we had leaks with heavy heavy rain storms. In the living room, we had a 1 ft square section where you can see the water had gotten under the paint on the ceiling, resulting in "wavey" paint (we have a flat cathederal ceiling). About a month after the roof was replaced, we had a leak in the same place. I called the roofer, they came back and "cauked" everywhere, assuring no more leaks. With last weeks' heavy snow, I see where we have somewhat of a leak again. Meaning the "wavey" paint looks worse. When it dries out, it looks better. Is my roof bad? Should I call the roofer again? Do I have a structural problem? Also, who should pay for the damage to my ceiling? Thanks a bunch! Steve

[DIY] cement floor covering for workshop

2008-09-25 22:37:55

Jim from Home Depot has never seen this product, sorry. I will tell you what I use, though: HD sells these interlocking rubber mat tiles with great big holes molded into them. The biggest reason I like them is that if an edged tool falls on this mat, it will come through it without earning any little dings in the edge. -- --jmowreader

High temperature adhesive for range top grate

2008-09-25 16:33:29

I have a Kenmore gas range (model #75501) that has little rubber feet or pads on the bottom of the burner grates that keep falling off, the manufacturer did not glue them on. I am now purchasing some new pads and I would like to glue them on. I would like to know what high temperature adhesive to use as the burner grates are metal and get very hot. The pads seem to be made out of some type or rubber like material. If anyone has any recommendations I would appreciate your response.

Slate tile

2008-09-25 11:20:52

Anyone here have experience laying slate floor tile? Any tips you'd like to share? Did you use thinset to lay the tile? How much grout line?

windows sweat

2008-09-25 07:08:12

How in the world can i keep windows from sweating. It does it so bad that the paint seems to meldew. I have no Idea how they built this house but im thinking something will get changed when roof is installed this spring.. maybe some sort of venting is needed. any Idea will help. Quelynn

Calling All Plumbers

2008-09-24 20:25:33

Ok..for all you plumbers or plumbing experts out there...I know nil about plumbing... Had a plumber come out because of a break in the line that goes from the meter to the house in the front yard. I had quite a nice little pool in my front yard yesterday and this morning. Anyway, they got it fixed, which set me back about $500 *sigh*. He tested the water pressure and it tested at 91. Code is 80. Two issues...why is it the homeowners' responsibility to regulate water pressure when the city is the only one (unless the owner wants to invest another $500 in a regulator) who can actually do anything about it? This just makes absolutely NO sense to me. Or perhaps I am misunderstanding what the plumber is telling me? Two: What in the world can I do about it (other than invest more money into the black hole)? Is it a big deal? I have a two story home and am having very disturbing visions of water and sheetrock landing on top of me in my living room one night while I watch TV. Do I just ignore it and pray? Not ignore it and pay?? Thanks in advance to anybody that can offer assistance. Jen in TX

[DIY] mold problem

2008-09-24 14:30:56

Thanks Suzie, that's my thought too. I wonder if I get a huge one or one for each room. Anybody know what brand and how much they cost? Marty

cement floor covering for workshop

2008-09-24 12:45:21

I just had a workshop (14*21 w/ hi ceilings) built that is attached to the back of my garage. Walls and ceiling are insulated with drywall attached. The concrete floor is 8 inches thick. I have heat in the workshop. Now I need to cover the cement slab with something that is easy, quick and inexpensive, but will help prevent the cold from coming thru the floor. The workshop will be used for all kinds of projects, but specifically wood-related projects. I am thinking about putting down a grid of 2x4's, then filling in with styrofoam insulation and then covering with plywood or equivalent (plywood is expensive). how thick should the plywood be and do I need anything on top of it or can I use it as is. Another option is to install linoleum flooring. Any other ideas will be appreciated, thanks.

[DIY] Two-sided tape on panels.

2008-09-24 02:23:08

Goo Gone removes tape residue. It won't desolve the tape so it needs to be able to get behind the tape to the sticky part. If you can get enough of the tape off then the sticky stuff left should come off with goo gone.

mold problem

2008-09-24 00:29:09

Hello All, I moved into my home here a few months ago. I found some of the outside inner walls to be wet. Mold on window sills and along bottom part of walls. Kids had to move into my room with me for awhile. I cleaned and scrubbed over and over and it would still get moldy. I had plastic put down under my house to keep the ground below dry. Found some of the foundation vents blocked with some kind of foam (spray foam that hardens). So those were cracked opened. I then cleaned the walls and windows of mold again (I also had sprayed Lysol on them over and over) and I applied Kilz to all the areas of mold. Let dry and repainted the already painted rooms. With the rooms still having wetness the lower parts of the room made the paint run down. So it had to be repainted and a heater set in there to let dry. Didn't run again. No more mold to be found now, it's been a couple of weeks. BUT now I am seeing mold in the window sills again...in a couple of them only. My windows seem to be barely sitting in there. When I painted the wood around the windows with the Kilz you could see the window opening out...like it needs caulk or something. I'm sure I need new windows. Okay, it's obvious there's too much moisture in the house. As for heat I have a heater in the wall in the living room (only one). It's natural gas heat. The kind you go pay City Hall for (not to put in tank). I was told the type of heat is what's causing this. I just don't know anymore..what the deal is. I have used ceiling fans, kept doors open. There's much draft in here. I've tried plastic on the windows..the water constantly drips in there. Does this even if it's NOT raining. What should I do? Gut the walls and put in insulation? What about the windows? I am a single 45 year old grandma raising two grandsugars who doesn't know what to do or have anyone to help, or very much money to do it with. All replies will be appreciated. Thanks, Marty

Lead Paint

2008-09-23 15:58:55

I am accidentally in the process of stripping my living room of paint (was removing a wallpaper border from the previous owner when the paint basically started peeling off the walls). My house is 65 years old and I am now down to the original paint and the bare plaster in many places. My question is: should I go ahead and try to remove all of the original paint as I am sure it has lead in it? And yes, I am wearing a mask during scraping and cleanup. It is flaking off in many places, but not all over. What would be the best thing to do before I repaint? Also, if I do remove all, or most, of the original paint, should I prime the walls before painting because it will be bare plaster? Thanks much, Colleen

Two-sided tape on panels.

2008-09-23 11:52:54

Help! The previous owner of my house put two-sided tape on the walls and I don't know how to remove it. This is a doublewide and the walls are not regular sheetrock. They are panels. Thanks!

[DIY] Re: drawer lubricants

2008-09-23 09:04:22

A good quality paste wax will work very well also.

is everyone ok??

2008-09-23 00:16:08

just hearing about how the temps are getting even LOWER than they have been back east... how is everyone doing??? it sounds awful!!

Tablesaws again

2008-09-22 21:37:06

Hey Guys, A couple of months ago I asked for opinions on table saws. I had it narrowed down to the Hitachi C10FL and the Rigid TS3650 but finally decided on the Hitachi. I've spent numerous hours putting it together with instructions that were far from accurate. One of the last steps was checking the blade alingment and of course it was off. The instructions pointed to two hex screws to adjusted the alignment that didn't exist on my table saw. So I went to Lowes to see if they could so me what I was doing wrong with their floor model. They couldn't figure it out either and suggested that I call Hitachi the following week since they are closed on the weekends. Needless to say Hitachi wasn't any help either. But right when I thought I figured out a way to work with the saw anyway, the wheel to adjust the angle stopped working. The device inside is still turning but the saw is now stuck at 30 degrees. So to make a long story short I am taking the saw back and will either get my money back or exchange it with the JET - JWTS-10JF model #708301K. Does anyone have any opinions on this JET saw? Thanks in advance for your help! Mitch

[DIY] peeling walpaper

2008-09-22 06:31:07

so do you think it was the praying or the sponging that did the trick? sorry, i just couldn't resist!! don't throw anything at me!!! LOL Flame <flamnembr@... ... pray or sponge the potion on; walk away for abuot 15-20 minutes, go back and scrub off... then rinse off.

[DIY] drawer lubricants

2008-09-22 04:06:20

I rub a bar of soap, like Ivory, over the surfaces. Sunny

peeling walpaper

2008-09-22 02:21:07

Hello Im peeling old wall paper off. There is alot of mildew behind it. Maybe even mold. It looks like ordinary drywall left. Is it ok to wash it down with something like bleach water or is there something I can use. Jackie O

Handicap accessible home?

2008-09-21 16:12:23

I live in a ranch which needs work. My intension is to make the house 'handicap friendly'. I plan on installing 36" interior door thoughout. Besides a ramp to the door can anyone tell me or direct me to a website that will let me know what needs to be remodled to make my home 'handicap friendly'? Thanks

Drywall repair question

2008-09-21 11:17:36

Many of the outside corners in my house are in need of repair. At the corners you will find a crack running the length of the wall where the edge of the metal corner bead would be. How would you recommend fixing this?

Why do I have a water pump on my furnace?

2008-09-21 07:29:32

Hello all, My wife yelled for me from the basement with concern in her voice. I arrived to a puddle of water on the floor which was tracked to the pump on the back of the furnace. When I bought the house I thought this device was some form of a humidifier. Now I don't think so. The cause of the link was a frozen drain line. How would one keep this line from freezing? The line passes through the basement wall with the A/C lines. It has been very cold here so the water froze in the line. Is there a way I can keep this from happening? Thanks, Fred

Sharpening tines

2008-09-21 03:21:29

How is the best way for me to sharpen my tiller tines. They have been around and seem to be a little dull. I use it in the yard and flower beds. Im going to till a large garden patch, but want it sharper then it has been. Should I take it in or is there a way with like a dremel tool or a store sharpener i can purchase to do that trick? Thank you Quelynn

For the love of Stair Rails, Help?

2008-09-20 20:44:10

Hello All, Well I am still at the basement remodel. Yesterday we were getting everything ready for the brick guy to put in brick behind the wood stove area. Seems innocent enough, right? Well my wife decided that I was going to take down the wall that lead up the stairs. Reluctantly I obliged. Once it was down I really liked it. HOWEVER, now we have a stair rail challenge. The stairs slope on a 45 degree angle. The stair rail was mounted to hangers that were screwed into the studs. Now I need to find out some ideas on putting in a new rail with all the correct rules applied. If I make an angled wall down we might need two different rails. The standard 1 3/4" rail for the first four steps at the top. The idea for the new rail would have it inset a bit from the other so it can be supported by the proposed angled wall below the stairs. Is this allowed? I suppose in this case it might be better if someone can point me to a good source of examples and techniques to look at. Does anyone have any of these. I think I am going to post some pictures here to help in the future. Thanks, Fred

Light duty tillers

2008-09-20 14:46:27

Has anyone here used a Mantis tiller or other small gas tiller? How about the small electric tillers (don't remember brand name, but I know HD carries one)? Any idea how deep any of these till and is it enough depth that you need to have the utilities mark for buried lines/pipes (especially since in my old neighborhood all phone, cable & electric is above ground)? The plots I'll be tilling are VERY small, odd shapes but no more than the equivelent of a 10'x10' plot (flower seeds or perennials, if that makes any difference). I'm concerned with not only the weight of the unit itself, but the ability to start it. Due to my problems with muscle weakness/coordination, I've had to go to an electric mower simply because I can't start the pull kind--my yard is small enough that cords don't present a problem . Not sure if any of the gas powered ones have electric starters, but also concerned about an electric model having no real power. Unfortunately the local rental places (including HD) only rent Mantis or larger gas tillers, so I can't try before I buy and compare. Thanks, Marci (who is definitely sick of ice & ready for Spring to arrive)

coat hangers

2008-09-20 05:27:04

Im wanting a pattern for wall coat rack or hanger. Thanks Quelynn

peeling wall paper

2008-09-19 21:54:34

I have some old peeling wall paper no dout put on walls and painted over 10 year ago, underneath it is meldew and i need to get if off and painted. Got an easy way to do that i have never did it before. Thanks Quelynn

Walls in an old house question

2008-09-19 17:28:39

I am in the process of removing a wallpaper border in my living room and hit a spot tonight and a huge sheet of paint came off with it!! Scared me to death as my walls are plaster and I was afraid that it was the plaster coming off. The paint on the walls now is an off- white. The sheets coming off are off-white on top and a sage green underneath. Under all of this is a shiny brown, like we recently found in the kitchen under 2 layers of wallpaper. It is coming off with little to no effort, just slide the putty knife and lift... Could it be an oil based paint and it is finally releasing all the paint on top of it? My house is 64 years old. Could it be that a previous owner painted the whole house the same brown color???? I painted the dining room last weekend and had no problems with it, but also didn't have to do any scraping. Any and all advice, opinions, etc. would be greatly appreciated! Colleen

[DIY] FOLLOWUP Ryobi Question...

2008-09-19 07:40:27

I have purchased a few "factory reconditioned" tools and all have worked well. It usually means that the tool was returned under warranty and the factory rebuilt it for resale. The advantage (my opinion) is that this tool has been fully inspected before putting back on the market. Manufactures may pull - lets say every 100th tool to check it out. If there is a problem then 99 others went to market already. I like the idea of getting one that for sure is inspected! OH! I have a followup... there is one of those "tool sales" coming to town on MONDAY, and they have the ryobi set, "factory reconditioned" - whatever THAT means - for about 25% off. Comes w/ a full one year warrenty. Q: is it worth the risk??? I am inclined NOT to do it, but am more than willing to listen to arguments!

200 amp service

2008-09-19 03:07:17

Hello, Besides the cost, are there any other disadvantages of having my service upgraded to 200 amp? I currently have 100 amp service. I have one main disconnect switch in the garage, then the main wire feeds 5 different service panels. I would like to clean it up and go with one box. My future plans call for 5 double pull breakers and 16 single pull breakers. I have found 100 amp boxes with 32 circuits, but I thought 20 was the limit for 100 amp. I am going to hire a licensed electrician to do the connections from the meter to the box. Because my meter is on the side of my attached garage, and my breakers are in the house, I am sure I still need the main disconnect switch in the garage. Would the switch need to be upgraded to handle the 200 amp service? I do not even know if there is a fuse in the main switch, the box won't open and it is way to cold to stand in my unheated garage and fight with it. From the switch to the service panel is about 30 feet, what size wire should I make sure the electrician uses. Any other comments on such a task would be appreciated. Thanks for your help. Michael

[DIY] Ryobi Question

2008-09-18 22:39:19

cordless flashlights are nice,and cordless shavers (you can actually shave while you are driving down the highway)and cordless remote controls are also nice. but i think that using battery powered tools on a real project is a waste of time.

[DIY] Re: Ryobi Question...

2008-09-18 22:34:52

My experience with Ryobi has been all negative. Two tools failed out the box. When i took it back to HD I asked the customer service lady if this happened often with these tools and she just rolled her eyes and gestured yes. I am not saying that you can't have a good experience with this brand, but i don't buy them anymore. Ryobi is not even in the same class with brands like Makita, Hitachi, Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. Pay the money and get the good tool. You won't regret it. Roy

Spring Projects

2008-09-18 06:51:34

Well. I fell off of a kitchen stool at Christmas when I was decorating and pushed my knee-cap into the back of my leg, and then broke all the bones in my ankle. My foot was actually turned backward and I had to crank it forwards again and call 911. After surgery (lots of screws and metal plates) and several days in the hospital, and now 6 weeks flat on my back for most of the time, I wish more than anything that I could do any project. I am not the sit around type and it has been VERY hard. I look at walls that need painting, and utility room that needs finished and am told that it will be summer before I can do much of anything. That brings me to another question. I am going to buy a step ladder with a gift certificate that I got at Ho-De. Does anyone have a recommendation? I was surprised to get one for Home-Depot and thought it must be a mistake for my husband, but now I think it's a great idea. Duh! Joan

Ryobi Question...

2008-09-18 03:18:32

I know we have a Mr. Home Depot in the group - which is why I lift this up to the group.... I have LONG been a supporter of CORDED tools. LOVE my Miluakee Hole shooter, LOVE my Bosch worm drive Circ saw.... and so on. BUT - times change. And for home use, and I also do some stuff around our church, cordless is beginning to be attractive. In fact, was doing some flooring at church, and another fella was doing some moulding / trim work, and he had the 18v ryobi set - 5" circ, drill and so on.... SO the question is... How good (or not) is ryobi? what about other brands? I tend also to love Craftsman. What about B&D?? Other packages??? I ****assume**** that each mfg uses a different 18v battery style (gggggrrrrrrrr) so that there is NOT interchangability - but to ANY use the same? (could be a factor - helps if you want to buy addtl tools). Battery question - how important is it to NOT, say, leave the batteries out in a detached unheated workshop. Should the batteries and charger be kept in the house? Advice greatly appreciated.....

[DIY] Ceramic Tile over Vinyl Floor?

2008-09-17 19:25:24

the idea of putting ceramic over vinyl does not make any sense.the other problem you may have is the size of the tile. a 12x12 is a big tile,,,and they do not bend. if the floor is not near to perfect flat, and solid,,,,they will crack. you can take that to the bank.

Lightning and damaged electronics

2008-09-17 13:48:30

Hi, Forgive me if this is somewhat off topic but a few weeks ago my house took a hit during an electrical storm. It wiped out two ports on a network router, two televisions, and the transformer on a light fixture. I'm considering taking the more expensive 32" TV to a repair shop but I'd like to know if there are any experts on here who would know what kind of damage such a jolt would do to a television and whether or not I'd be better off trashing it. Mike

floors

2008-09-17 07:07:53

The addition is almost done, we need to get ready for the floors. Right now it is plywood, seeing as how we can't afford the flooring we want we are planning to put in linoleum, or some of those vinyl tiles. Should we put that 1/4" board (can't think of the name right now) down on top of the plywood first? I want to make sure that in the future when we can afford the nice wood floor we want we won't have a problem with pulling up the vinyl stuff, or damaging the plywood (subfloor??). thanks suzie

Cost Estimating Surprise

2008-09-17 04:26:00

Greetings... Been playing with the residential cost estimating software I bought. Neat stuff! It also made a liar out of me! Been telling my wife that it is cheaper to build a two story house rather than a one story of the same size. The 2 story would have half the roof, half the concrete pad... I thought this was pretty much conventional wisdom. SO...ran the software models for a 2000 SF house of average quality for a one story and a two story. The 2 story was actually a minute amount MORE! Say what? Turns out the the cost items that increase with two stories basically cancels out the savings in roof, pad... Or so the authors of the software think! I compared each estimate. The more expensive cost items for two stories were: Increased exterior wall framing, insulation, and siding. Increased interior partition framing and finish. Cost of stairs to second floor! Increased cost of half of the floor framing because the second floor used larger floor joists than the first floor. (Is that normally really the case?) Bottom line: If the software models are correct, it is a toss up for a 2000 SF average quality home. I'd LOVE to hear the thoughts of some of our resident DoIT_Yourself guru's! Joel

opinion wanted on new floor plan for my home

2008-09-16 19:06:15

Hi everyone. I am from Mumbai, India. I have designed a new floor plan for my home. Just wanted to have an opinion on how practical is the new plan. I have posted the existing floor plan as well as the new floor plan in the album named `new floor plan 4 my home -opinion wanted', in the photo section of this website. In the `existing floor plan' please excuse that the walls have not been drawn at some places. The maximum length available in my house is 555 inches and the maximum width available is 415 inches. Also the existing columns and beams in the house have not been shown on the plan, but I have taken care of them while designing the new plan so that no column or beam obstructs any room or ceiling. And the existing windows can be planned with some flexibility, which I have taken care of. any & all suggestions are welcome Thanx n warm regards vishal

Hello World:

2008-09-16 16:48:58

Trinity: What have you done with everyone, I haven't seen this list this quiet in so long that it makes me wonder? Dale

how does one buy bricks?

2008-09-16 07:34:42

Might sound like a dumb question, but I am a dumby with this subject. This is the deal. I am going to be installing a woodstove in a basement. Instead of leaving the block wall exposed I wanted to lay brick all the way up the wall. It would cover and area 5 foot wide and 7 foot high. This would allow me to minimize the clearance to the stove. A side question, is it hard to lay brick? Thanks, Fred

hey jim how do ya make that plugged watermellon?

2008-09-16 04:23:48

jim we got the vodka and the mellon and i cant remember how to make a plugged watermellon. HEEEEELP! lol

building a free standing car port.

2008-09-15 19:33:15

greetings folks! i just purchased a 65 mustang and due to the garage being full allready ive elected to build a car port out of 2x4s and a tarp. thats about 11' x 15' has anyone done anything like this? since im a renter of my house it has to be free standing and not attached to the house or the wall next to it. i really dont want to set the main poles in concrete. what does everyone think of putting a couple sandbags on each pole to keep it from blowing away durring high winds. or anything else im not thinking about? thanks :-)

paint question

2008-09-15 18:41:16

Just wondering how long you have to let the second coat of paint dry before you can begin hanging things. Thanks, Colleen

Tire Stains in the Garage

2008-09-15 13:04:50

The garage floor is concrete, no floor treatments, and each of the 8 locations where tires are stopped there are blackish marks. I have tried to scrub them with bleach, but it did not help. Is there a trick to being able to remove these marks? Thanks, Scott

Bathroom wall

2008-09-15 01:29:38

OK, I am on a roll with the bathroom! My plan is to paint it next weekend, so thought to start prepping it now. There was a line of what I thought was spackling type stuff that I wanted to sand out. Sanding didn't even faze it, so I got out the paint scraper. That didn't work either, so I got out my trusty putty knife. The "stuff" popped right off, and there is no apparent reason for it underneath. Go figure!! Anyways, under the paint (pepto bismol pink...) is primer and under that is what I can only compare to formica. This is the weirdest thing I have ever seen! My house is 60+ years old and I'm not sure how many owners there have been, but do know that the owners before me were here for 10 years. Some of the paint is popping right off and some is sticking like glue. What do I do????? Keep scraping until it is all off or what???? There are also spots where the surface is VERY rough that I haven't gotten to yet and I don't think paint removal or sanding will make a difference. HELP!!

no claw foot tub folks, huh?

2008-09-14 20:32:33

I'm still trying to figure out if the standard tub size changed between say 1930 and 1960. Any thoughts on where I could research this? I'm not even sure what to search for on the internet for this one! Lori in northern VA

Two water heaters question

2008-09-14 17:36:43

Hey all! I'm new to the group, so be gentle--it's my first time posting. Anyway, I've got two baths in my house currently and will soon be adding another (more questions on that later). I don't think my water heater (50 gal) is big enough--it sometimes seems like it's running out of hot water now. I want to add a second water heater in the addition for the laundry room/bathroom. Do the systems need to be completely seperate, or is it ok for the old bathrooms and new bathroom to draw off both at the same time? Any pros/cons either way? Kraig

progression

2008-09-14 13:59:35

Does anyone know - or can any suggest the order in which to do a bathroom remodel? I've got the tile off the wall, the fixtures all out, the cement backer board out and the bottom 1/2 of the drywall. I know I have to rip out to the studs and the ceiling is okay. (we had water damage so even the floor has to come up) Once I get the thing completely gutted, what order do things need to happen? here's what needs to be addressed in random order: Electrical replaced, add outlet and ventilation fan, change lighting Plumbing - entire system replaced plus hooking up new fixtures Tub installation pedestal sink installation Toilet Installation Floor installation - tile insulation and drywall cement backerboard installation wall tile installation Window in tub area replaced Now when I took the drywall down off the outside wall (tub wall) there was water damage. the damage is on the outside of the studs toward the siding. not sure how bad this is yet as I haven't finished taking down the drywall. I do plan to have a professional do the electric and plumbing. I am just not certain when to call them or what I need to have ready. any help/ideas are appreciated. Karol Karol@...

Concrete Repair

2008-09-14 08:11:23

I had a concrete driveway/patio poured over the summer. There is an unplanned pond in the driveway as our contractor tried to use an 8 ft board to smooth out a 9 ft patio. It dips in the middle, hence the pond. We are so disgusted by it. Hubby and I are thinking of ways to fix it as all it needs is the dip to be filled in. We have seen concrete patch stuff and skim coat stuff. I'm wondering if these things would really stick to the surface well and which one would be a better choice. It looks like if we fill in this spot, the grade is right on the concrete. Any suggestions or experiences youall can give me? I did tell the contractor about it and ask him to fix it, he said NO. I couldn't believe it, just flat out told me no. It's just as well, they tore up so many things while working here, I'd just as soon he didn't come back out here with his crew. It's been 4 months and we've just gotten most everything fixed. Thanks for any info you'll be able to give me. Linda

Cleaning up Moldy Basement

2008-09-13 21:00:49

Hi, I own an 80+ year house which has a full basement (22ft x20ft) + a coal bin (6ft x 20ft room). The coal bin has been closed off for years, and has developed a musty smell, not to mention that there are probably mold spores. Anybody know of any good products that will take care of mold + any products to handle the musty smell. I currently have a dehumidfier running non-stop at the moment. It is helping a little. Thanks

Bathtub or Shower

2008-09-13 14:27:49

Hello I live in a doublewide built in 88 the tub in the main bathroom has crack down the middle of it. not being able to find a tub the same size that I like. I am considering putting in a castiron clawfoot tub but am not sure about wheter or the floor will hold up under the weight. so how would I go about re-enforcing the floor to hold the weight or if I even need to. did consider a shower but the toilet keeps getting in the way. would it be easier to just move the toilet over and then the regular tubs and showerstalls might fit. wrecky_77

Rolled Roofing Questions...

2008-09-13 11:31:22

HELP!!! I am building a new carport, and want to have a rolled roofing surface. 1). What is the minimum slope needed? 2). I plan to use a double layer of #30 felt + a double layer of 90# Mineral roofing over the felt. Is that "good" 2a). To put the double layer of 90# roofing, do i do a complete layer, then just go over the whole thing again? What is the "best" way to get the double coverage 3). Drip edging - at the LOW end (bottom of slope) install drip edging right over the CDX and run the 30# felt OVER the drip edging? Then AFTER the 30# is down THEN install the drip edging on the sides - on top of the felt? And NO edges on the top of the 90# ???? 4). The whole "flat" area is almost 30' X 30' (incl overhangs and storage areas and whatnot) - how LONG should each strip of 90# be? ie cut it into 10' lengths??? I SEEM to remember that TOO long can cause cracks. What should the overlap be - "horizontal" AND "vertical" seams. Only need to use Henry's at the seams??? - What about some of that fiberglass mesh... do i need that for the seams too???? Thanx in advance for ANY and ALL advice.. Alan W.

what kind of paint to use

2008-09-13 00:36:03

i am thinking of painting over the old linoleum on the floor in my laundry room. What would be a good product for this job? They seem to do a lot of this kind of stuff on Sell this House and some of those type shows, so want to give it a try because removing this old stuff is going to be a horrendous job. Jean

New Construction Woes...

2008-09-12 20:56:10

Our new home was completed in late November and we moved in first part of December. We are having a couple of issues that our contractor does not seem to have an answer for. Here are some of the details of the home: 1. All brick home 2. Walk out basement 3. Ranch style home 4. Located in NE Ohio 5. Heat pump with propane backup (ho humidifier setting) My Problem(s): 1. All windows are condesating in the colder weather. Every window in the house has moisture forming on the sills when the colder temperatures set in. The past few days it has been 40 + and we have not had any problem. When the temp. drops outside, the water forms on the inside. 2. In our basement, on the walk out side (not underground), water puddles are forming only in the corners. We have no other sign of water throughout the basement except for these outside corners. To go along with this, it is as if the water is coming "up" through the cement floor. There is no sign of any water coming through the block. There are footer drains the whole way around the homethe run out to nothing on this back side of the house. If you go to the outside, where these corners are, there is only about six inches of brick below ground level before the foundation block. Both issues have the builder and myself baffled. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. If anyone needs anymore details, I'll be glad to provide them. Thanks, Fgreen

claw foot tub size question

2008-09-12 16:59:30

We are getting ready to remodel the bathroom in our circa 1965 house. We would like to replace the 60s tub with a standard claw foot tub, but find the vintage claw foot tub measurements are an inch longer than the space we seem to have. Does anyone know why this is so? Did "standard" tub measurements change between 1930 and 1960 -- by one inch??? Frustrated bathroom remodelers in VA (Lori and Phil)

[DIY] Ladders, Gutters, et al

2008-09-12 12:17:04

2 options They have ladder arms which will hold the extension ladder off of the gutters. I just lean mine against the gutters but try to place it at a location with a gutter support. They have hose extensions that are made to curve around and clean out the gutters from below. Once they are clean, I put those four foot long gutter caps from Lowes on mine and no more cleaning, so far they are worth their weight in Gold. It takes a 40 ft extension to get to some of my gutters. Good luck Mike

Bathroom sink faucet

2008-09-12 02:32:25

Hi all, I am in the process of replacing my bathroom sink faucet but am having a HORRIFIC time loosening the nuts/bolts whatever you call them that are holding the old faucet onto the sink itself. The most helpful guy at Lowe's (I must have called him a dozen times over the weekend!) said that they should have never, ever been screwed on that tight to begin with and gave me several suggestions for loosening them but none worked. Anyone have ANY advice on how to get these suckers loose? TIA, Colleen

Ladders, Gutters, et al

2008-09-12 02:14:47

Greetings. My wife and I recently became first time home owners so we have a lot to learn in '05. One of the first things I've had to tackle is the gutters. They look like they've never been cleaned or at least not in a long time. We bought one of those guerilla ladders at HD, the kind that can be a scaffold, step ladder or an extension. It works nicely but is not quite long enough to reach the highest gutters - about 14-15'. My question is, does anyone have a recommendation on which kinds of ladders to buy? The next bggest guerilla is $100 more and weighs a ton so I'm thinking of getting a regular extension ladder and a step ladder for indoors. Also, is it safe to lean the ladder directly on the gutters? They're in decent shape but am afraid the weight of me and the ladder would be too much. The roof is too steep to do it from there so I'm at a bit of a loss. Any ideas/suggestions are much appreciated.

Interior Door Construction

2008-09-11 20:38:13

Greetings... How are the typical, 6 panel, pine, stain grade, interior doors found at the local improvement store constructed? Are the stiles, rails, and panels really solid pine boards? Reason I ask, is that they are not very heavy (I knwo, pine is light, but...). Also, years back, I cut down a typical wood flush surface sliding closet door. Removed a piece of solid wood about 2" wide from the bottom, cut the door to length, knocked out the cardboard(?) monoque "frame" an amount equal to the solid piece of wood, and replaced said piece of wood. Worked well! (I was making a el cheapo computer desk and the original doof was too long.) Joel

Painting Tiles and Chickens

2008-09-11 16:06:04

Thank you for all your imput on the tiles. I'll check with our local Praxis/Gamma. They have the tile paint in 5 colors: white, yellow, chinese red, black and marine blue, 1/2 ltr is $40. So I want to do this right. I can't read the directions because they are in Dutch, German and I think French. This is why I asked if anyone has done this before. Now that I know what I need to do before I start painting. I'll get my word book and go on the search for the prep materials. Now for the chickens. I'm a city girl and we just moved to a village of 2000. Being in the middle of this village, I thought it wouldn't be appropriate. I had the impression that chickens belonged on a farm. Well I thought wrong. The man next door said he finds the noise from them pleasing to listen to. So if my fil insists then I want the Rhode Island Red. :) I need something that can defend itself against these cats. And some that will produce enough eggs, that I can set up a little table in my driveway and sell them. One lady down the street sells eggs. Just puts them out in a basket with a cup for the money and that's it. She sells them 10 cents apiece or 10 for 99cents. People do this all the time here. We got 12.5 kilo of potatoes for 3.50 and 5k of onions for 1.50 euro. Just driving in the country and they had a tractor and wagon set along the road with a sign. No one was there. Just help yourself and leave the money. One thing for sure this sure isn't the states. I don't remember being able to do this except back in the 50's when I was just a little kid. Ok I got way off topic here. This is a great group and very helpful. thank you. jd from Penna living in the Netherlands

[DIY] painting

2008-09-11 03:29:46

take a string, and use a small nail at the center point, that will give you a circle. You can mask off the other area's and paint away. Fill in the nail hole and sand it smooth with some drywall compound before you paint the circles. You could also make cardboard cut outs and use them. Mike

Help... Advice Needed

2008-09-10 19:38:49

Hello, I am new to the group. I have been remodeling my home. Just finished gutting and remodeling my Master Bedroom & Bathroom. It really turned out nice. Wasn't quite able to do it as cheap as I wanted, but I was able to get the result I was looking for. I will post some pictures later. But, I am ready for my next phase of renovations on this poor old 40 year old house. I hope someone can help me out with a little advice. I am looking to close in my existing carport to make a Livingroom. I am back and forth on whether to raise the slab, and if so, what materials to do it with. Some have advised to just raise with wood and created a subfloor out of plywood and install wood flooring. I would not hesitate, but I live in Louisiana and am concerned about eventual rot. Does anyone have any advice on materials to raise the floor or if it is even necessary to do so. Thanks for your advice and help!

Two Prong Receptacles..testing ground?

2008-09-10 17:07:04

All the electrical outlets in my house are two prong, fed by armored cable which serves as the ground. I've replaced many of them with three-prong or GFI outlets. After replacing, I test the ground using a little plug-in tester that shows no-ground, reverse polarity, etc.. I have a few that show no ground, all on the same circuit. How do I go about grounding these? They are connected to the armored cable...do I need to trace the circuit backwards to find out where the break is? Also, is there a way to test if a two-prong outlet is grounded without installing a three prong outlet?

Question re: Nailer

2008-09-10 12:18:53

Has anyone used the DeWalt nailer that uses a battery instead of air? I really want one, but want to make sure that they work well before putting the money in because they are expensive. Thanks! -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.6.7 - Release Date: 12/30/2004

New Toys!!!!

2008-09-10 04:04:57

Every time another box arrives, my bride greets me with, "You have a New Toy in the Living Room" but of course we all know that these are necessities and not really toys at all. In my line of work and since I work alone most of the time, portability is the key word with all of my cabinetry power tools, and so I have opted for the "Bench Top" variety. I have lately added a bench top, jointer, shaper, belt/disc sander and a second compound miter saw. Found a nice pancake compressor for $80.00 which is just right for my size jobs, and added a new 16ga finish nailer as well to compliment the 18ga smaller units. I leave the band saw and thickness plainer at the shop, but everything else can be easily loaded up and taken to the job site. I like to use a pneumatic drill rather than the electric on jobs, since it is lighter and I have better control with it, besides it fits in the hammer loop on my nail pouch and if dropped it is rugged and doesn't fly into a fit of broken fragments. I had delayed buying a shaper because the cutters can run into big money in a hurry, but I found a source for the more commonly used cutters where the price is quite reasonable. Grizzly has a line of 1/2 inch bore cutters that are affordable, and while they're probably not intended for high production work, they are just fine for the few cabinet jobs I will be doing each year. One of the secrets of the bench top units is to take smaller cuts and don't force them, under these conditions they work very well and will last a long time. The little jointer cuts smooths as glass and the feed depth adjustment is very good. I found a source for rubber mats that are used on shipping pallets and are often thrown aside by the truckers. These are made from recycled tires and are about 1/8 inch thick. I lay them down under my tools and work pieces to keep them from slipping or vibrating, and just roll them up and put a band around for carrying or storage. You might check the docks around your area for these as well. They are used at the salt mine which is about 20 miles from here. Now these are just a few of the more recent additions, and of course there are always bargains a body can't afford to pass up. Dale in the Flat Lands.

Painting Tiles

2008-09-10 02:00:41

MY question is has anyone ever used tile paint? and if so what are your thoughts on this? In the toilet (powder room) the bottom half of the walls are tile 100cm x 176cm x 91cm. The top was painted concrete, the tiles are old yellow tiles with black grout I'd like to change the them to something a little brighter and clean looking. Without replacing the tiles right now. Any suggests and how to do this? jd 218

cleaning 1940's floor grout?

2008-09-09 19:38:21

The bathrooms all have very typical small tiles on their floors, and show some patina which seems acceptable. BUT, the grout seems objectionable in color. It is dirtier in some areas than others, and it gives the floor an inconsistent appearance. The grout lines are very tight- less than 1/8" Any ideas how I could clean the grout lines? Chemical cleaner or other technique? Just don't want to replace the floor, I like it's style. Thanks.

[DIY] A Few Dry Wall Tricks:

2008-09-09 16:03:40

If your are thinking of building niches into the existing walls that are probably only the width of a 2x4 in thickness, those might be a little difficult to finish unless they will go all the way through the wall. I would build them out of wood and then set them into the holes with a frame around them. Use thin wood for the back so as to leave all the depth you can. The wood can then be painted and you can use 1/4 round instead of the bull nose at the walls edge and if you are careful it will look like bull nose, but finishing those small niches is not what I'd recommend for a beginner in sheetrock work. Dale

HELP! Beckett oil burner ran out of oil...refilled &amp; now wont start!

2008-09-09 01:10:59

My beckett oil burner ran out of oil last night...we refilled this morning and now it wont start. Im pretty sure if i to get the air out of the line but im not 100% sure how to do this...can someone please let me know how to do this or even direct me to a site to read on it. Id appreciate any info on this. Im in NY and my family is cold :(

Laminate Floors

2008-09-08 20:07:06

Ok so I'm thinking about putting down a "floating" laminate floor. I have a few questions. 1) They all say the plywood subfloor (I currently have carpet in the area) needs to be level - So of course I can't tell with the carpet on there. How hard is it to level out an uneven subfloor if that turns out to be the case? What's an accurate method to measure the eveness of the subfloor? 2) Some lines have the underlayment already glued to the individual pieces. However I noticed there is a space around the edges. About 3mm away. So two boards put together have a 6mm gap in the underlayment right at the joint. Wouldn't that cause a loss support and allow movement in the boards and possible breaking of the link. 3) Speaking of underlayment is it good enough to level out a mildly uneven subfloor. For example one brand said less than 3mm/1 m is ok - so if I have 4mm/1m would that be corrected with underlayment? 4) Any recommendations on brands? I'm looking for a darker colored wood for about a 450 sqft area on the ground floor of a townhouse.

A Few Dry Wall Tricks:

2008-09-08 19:25:08

I suppose this might be as good a time as any to address some of the tricks to doing drywall. They'ere not tricks really but just common sense learned the hard way, and BTW I'm still learning. When putting up the raw sheetrock, use screws since they do not work out and you can carry a screw driver in your pocket to address any that aren't in all the way. Try to avoid butting the ends as they are harder to tape, waste a little 'rock and butt tapered factory edges where ever possible. Spend a little money before you start and get the right tools, (1) a 4 foot T square, (2) several retractable razor knives, (3) a selection of good dry wall putty knives, 3" on up to 12", (4) a small compressor and a crown stapler ( very handy for putting on the corners, beats the heck out of nails plus it has a thousand other uses) I have a little Power-Pal compressor that will drive staples all day but since there is no tank it runs all the time, I use a regular pancake compressor most of the time but one of those little $60.00 units will get you by for a long time. Sanding and finishing sheetrock is where the big mess usually is but that doesn't have to be the case. I always use mesh tape and only use paper tape when I can't get a good finish on a butt joint. Cut the mesh tape to near length and roll it into place over the seam with a good wall paper roller (now go buy a good one, not one of those plastic cheapies.) trin with the razor knife and then apply the first coat of mud. If you put the mud on with a 4 inch knife, go over it with at least a 6 " blade. For the second coat, apply with a 6 " blade and go over with an 8 or 10 inch blade, this gives you nice feathered edges so there is very little sanding needed. When you start to sand, buy several sanding sponges and spring for the good ones that say "wet or dry" 3M makes a good one that is course and fine grit in the same block. Soak the sponge in a bucket of warm water and squeeze out the excess water, then sand and feather using both the course and fine surface. When the grit begins to load up you will start to make dust, rinse out the sponge and go again. You will make so little dust that it will amaze you. The wet sponge will actually smooth and feather out the joints quicker than a dry sanding sponge will, and you won't have all that dust to brush down when you're done. You might have to hit the mud with the wet sponge between mud applications, but as you get experienced that will become less necessary. On the inside corners, fold and roll the mesh tape on first then mud. Those corner trowels are OK but with a little practice you can do just about well with a 6" knife and hit the little ridge later with the wet sand. Practice will make perfect, believe me. The trick is how you hold the knife so that the corner of the blade does the work in the corner of the sheetrock, being careful not to score or cut the tape. On outside corners, don't worry about that little bit of mud that hangs right on the corner itself, hit it by running a knife down the corner when it is dry and it is gone, sand a bit if necessary. I'm sure there is more but this should give someone who has never hung "rock" a place to start. Oh one other thing, buy a good stainless steel mud tray, not one of the cheap plastic ones. When you're done you'll have a new bread pan as well <G Dale

insulating floor in shed

2008-09-08 08:36:49

Hi, I am new to this group. I volunteer at the local animal shelter and the rabbits are kept outside in a shed. It is getting cold enough to freeze their water bowls overnight as there is no heat in the shed. We have already insulated the walls, door, and ceiling to help retain their body heat. I think a lot of the heat still escapes through the floor. The shed is raised off the ground and the wind blows underneath, I am pretty sure the floor is only a 1/2" piece of plywood. We are afraid to leave a heater on unattended for a few reasons: 1. Fire - there is hay and fur abound in there. 2. The cord would have to come from the main building across a driveway where it could be damaged from being driven over by cars. We don't have the resources or expertise to raise the floor from the inside to add insulation, so I am playing with the idea of somehow insulating it from the bottom outside. Here are my ideas: 1. Straw bale houses keep the heat in very well - if I stuff straw underneath the shed that might work - BUT there might be a bug problem - will this ruin the shed in the end? 2. Stuff dirt and fill under there, but will it be insulating? 3. Close off the shed to ground gap with wood to prevent the wind from going underneath and blowing away the heat. Any suggestions would help thanks so much Janet and the Shelter Bunnies

Electrical Contractor is bailing out of rewire job

2008-09-08 07:53:35

This may be more of a local (Dekalb CO, GA) builders code question. I am in a situation in which some work on my home is close to complete. The house has been completely rewired and has passed the rough electrical inspection. However, due to some issues the electrical contractor probably will not complete the job. At this time, all that is needed is installing outlets and light fixtures. I have a gas stove, hot water tank, and furnace. My question is, can completing these items be a doityourself project? My uninformed assumption is that I can finish the work and schedule the final inspection. As long as the work is complete and to code, this everything is all good. I realize that the electrical contractor "owns" the permit. But, I own the house, and have paid for the work done so far which has passed inspection. Any opinions?

[DIY] Re: furnace ducts

2008-09-07 18:21:29

Thanks for replying. I appreciate that. Sounds like something I can put off. We've survived so far. I have suspected that the guy you has it done every year may have a deal with the duct cleaning company since he's in the construction business. Sunny

First Thermostat

2008-09-07 15:26:34

Hi All, We are planning to install a thermostat for the first time. What this means is: 1) We have no idea what we are doing 2) We have no idea what brand is good 3) There is no pre-existing wiring. We have a heating/cooling unit from the 60's (can't ever replace). I have seen these in other apartments. Any thoughts? There are knobs on the unit now that control "on/off" & "fan speed." But, if we leave it on, we are roasted and if we leave it off, we are frozen (NYer's here where it is 29 degrees today). So, you can see how this is a problem when we sleep. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Anne

Moving W/D a few feet?

2008-09-07 13:12:01

Hi all, We have a washer/dryer cubby area attached to our