Do it yourself

Hello everyone, I will be shutting down my computer sometime later the evening due to the approaching storm. I know that some of you do not remember me from correspondence we may have had before. However, I don't have time to send emails only to select people. I ask all of those folks to forgive me for mailing this email. I'm busy boarding up, tying down, and moving pieces of lawn furniture so that I will not lose that much of my possessions. Also, flying objects can be dangerous to other people and my family. All county roads are being shut down at 6 p.m. this evening for besides the high velocity of the winds, estimated to be around 70 to 50 miles per hour, we will be receiving approximately 10 to 15 inches of rain during the next three days. This will be causing flooding, washed out roads, downed power lines and poles. In other words some massive damage and extended power outages. When Hurricane Opal hit us 10 years ago we were without power for a week. Ivan seems to much worse and there is no telling what will happen. Due to that fact I will not be able contact anyone for an extended period of time. Lastly, I ask all of you to pray for us down here is southern Alabama. Please petition The Lord to protect and provide for everyone who is positioned in the path of this evil beast. God bless you and thank you, Ron & Linda Thompson Andalusia, Alabama

I HATE staples!!!!!!!! I can't get half of these staples out of the floorboards. You are hearing all my aches and pains as I toil through the night to get this project completed! Talk about dedication!!!!! lol

Subject: Looking to rig a lighting fixture...snip............. Time to stop and think it through. Get a qualified electrician to look at this. I question the circuit loading. Washer, refrigerator, possibility of lighting all on same circuit. Grounding the new fixture really needed due to washer being within reach of you changing flor tubes. Hang on...I'm sure you'll get a load of further info in a hurry... herbie

Finally getting that tacking strip up. It was so old it had rotted! Anyway, because the tile is lower than the carpet it replaced was, there is a gap underneath the rubber weather strip by the door. Is it possible to replace that rubber strip with a deeper one to hide the gap underneath?

I am using the claw part of the hammer to try to get the tacking strip up. It won't come up and is splintering. What else can I use?

Hi all. Ok, I thought I had this great plan to impove lighting in a laundry room. I was going to hang up a flourescent lighting fixture (workshop variety with two 4-5 feet long bulbs) into the room. I bought a lightbulb adapter for the existing lightbulb socket that I was going to hang the fixture next to. The adapter was one that you screw in like a lightbulb and then you screw the lightbulb into the adapter which and above the lightbulb it has two outlets (one on each side fo the adapter) for plugging things into. My plan was to hang the fixture next to it and plug in the fixture into the adapter....uh, whoops..the adapter has 2 2-prong outlets, not 3-prong as with the fixture going into it. S0000000, my question is - do they sell these adapters with 3 prong (didn't see any at the home store)? There is one regular outlet on the "wall" that have 2 3-prong for plugs (both a running fridge and washer are hooked into it). I thought about running the fridge 2-prong on up to the lighting adapter and plugging the fixture into the "wall". First off, is that safe (the place and fridge are certainly not new)(is that too much power into an adapter)? As well, is there some sort of adapter to create an extra accessible plug-in on the "wall" outlet (making it 3 areas to plug something into)? If so, would having a fridge, washer and flourescent lighting fixture be too much for that outlet?? Thanks for any advice. I hope I haven't confused anyone and if so please ask away and I'll try to better explain. :) S. (Thinking I was making progress in the handyman department. lol.)

Has anyone heard of Oil tank heaters to keep heating oil from jelling in the winter? If so who make them? If not please advise on other ways to protect the tank. I have heating tape but it wasn't enough last year. Thanks Frank

Hi, I am not a floor tiling expert but I have several floors to do in my home. So I have read a lot about it. I take it that you will be applying vinyl tile which is much easier than ceramic. The time factor has to do with what is underneath the carpet. If it is wood then just clean and apply the tile (an hour or two?). If it is vinyl then you might be best to lightly sand it so that the self stick tile adheres better. In the latter case it may take you an extra half hour or so. Good luck and tell us how it turns out. Joe In a message dated 9/14/2004 9:26:10 PM Central Standard Time, mistyglen@... writes: I am about to cut through some carpet and put selfstick tile there instead. I have a small hallway (9x5 plus closet) where the carpet is stained and I am going to make this an entrance hallway of tile instead. I am doing this myself this evening, so wish me luck. Right now I have tacked down the remaining carpet with some nails to hold the tension. Next I am going to cut through the carpet - and, yes, I am hesitating!!!!! lol Next I rip up the old carpet - AND HAVE A STROKE AT WHAT I HAVE DONE!!!!!!!! Then I battle with the tacking strips to get those up. Then I put down the tile. I even bought a small hack saw to cut the aluminum carpet trim that goes on at the end. How long do you think this job will take me?

I am about to cut through some carpet and put selfstick tile there instead. I have a small hallway (9x5 plus closet) where the carpet is stained and I am going to make this an entrance hallway of tile instead. I am doing this myself this evening, so wish me luck. Right now I have tacked down the remaining carpet with some nails to hold the tension. Next I am going to cut through the carpet - and, yes, I am hesitating!!!!! lol Next I rip up the old carpet - AND HAVE A STROKE AT WHAT I HAVE DONE!!!!!!!! Then I battle with the tacking strips to get those up. Then I put down the tile. I even bought a small hack saw to cut the aluminum carpet trim that goes on at the end. How long do you think this job will take me?

One of my downspouts is clogged up. What is a good way to get it working again? I've thought of a plumber's snake or a drain cleaner, but I decided it would be good to ask advice first, since I'm fairly new at home maintenance :-) Thank you! Lynn M.

1. Turn off the water. 2. Unbolt the toilet bowl from the floor. 3. Lift from floor. It can't be that simple. Nothing is. What have I missed? I need to get the bowl up so that I can scrape off the old flooring and lay down some new. Tom

There is a fella here at work who has a 3-way switch. Just the switch - and wants to use it to replace a REGULAR switch. I told him it should NOT be a problem - just run a continuity check to be sure which 2 of the 3 screws to use.\ Any other issue I missed?????

Hi - I just joined. Can someone tell me what to use to clean out my garage? I just had a ton of stuff removed from it but it is full of cobwebs and some leaves - yuck! I HATE cobwebs but I have to get rid of them, along with all the dirt and grime that is now on the floor. Is it okay to use a hose and hose down the inside of it? The walls are drywall or similar, I think. It is actually a condo garage but I believe I saw another neighbor hosing down hers quite a while ago. What can I use to clean the painted cement floor?

Does anyone know the names of a reliable product that removes adhesive tape marks (duct tape) left on windows. We are boarding and taping up windows here in Pensacloa, Fl. We had could not get it off our windows, years ago, we we lived in N.C after a storm? Take Care, Angel

Ok, this is realy a dumb question and I am not asking to be a smart a##, but I was reading a book last night, and they explained why a carpenters pencil was flat, his answer was way off.......again, not to belittle anyone, but does but does anyone know the true answer? Remember this is all in fun.

call Roto Rooter thats the name and away goes trouble down the drain. they will clear the line,,find out whats in there and tell you if anything is broken. nobody on this website can see underground.or has been to your house.

you say there are three toilets backing up and the plumber can't find the problem. Thats a first.Do you live in the city with a regular sewer line or in the country with your own? are they all at ground level? Does it only happen when there is a lot of rain in the area? Was the guy really a plumber?

Hi Everyone my aname is Al, I joined this group a while back and this is my first post. My problem is the three toilet bowls in our home have been backing up. I haved used a plunger and chemicals and the problem stops for a while then starts again. I had a plumber check the bowels, sewer line and anything else they could think of three times, but they don't find a problem. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance, Al

I just saw that photo of the mystery hardware. Did it get solved? It looks like a door plate/ensemble that goes over a round lock and the bottom part is a door handle? Was this a test? E

To answer the q's: The deck will be 8 feet tothe underside beams (4x8s) sitting on 4x12 supported by 4x76s. It will be ledgered and lagged to the house properly and the design has been used before at my neighbors and his shakes and is not that solid BUT was approved by the county. I want my more solid. Parking is length of the deck. Soil is compact undisturbed mildly rocky clay and "dirt". Snow load has been accounted for in the design (300 PSF) and the home constructionis SFD wood frame ledgerable and laggable for the deck end (12).. The basic question is how to make it solid at the 12' end that is "wagging" in the wind without cross braces at the open end (so cars can get in)...DO I use cable to anchor the ends from the side for example? I am stumped for sound ideas. Thanks, Ed You have left several unanswered questions: How tall from ground to deck level? Are you parking with the length or the width? What is your soil type, clay, sand, rocky? What are your yearly weather conditions, wind, snow etc.? What type of construction is the home to which it will be anchored? Last but not least, you are aware that decks have open spaces between the boards and anything spilled will wind up on the cars. Dale

With the way my property is laid out the only choice we have for significant deck space is too build one 25 feet long by 12 feet wide. With the 12 foot side anchored to the house and the other 3 sides just out there. How can it be built so the long deck does not shake or fall over. The catch is we want our cars parked under the deck so the long end cannot be closed in for bracing like a shed. Any help? I think someone on another list has the same problem? Ed

Hi. I've got red oak cabinets, trim, and baseboards finished in a "natural" polyurethane, factory finish. I don't think there is any tint to this. My doors in this location are all pine. I've tried several stains ("Honey oak", "Early American", etc.) on scrap pine to accurately match the stained pine to the existing oak. They all look somewhat close, but lack that red tinge you see in the natural red oak. There is no manufacturer I've seen in my location that sells a "red oak" stain. So, I'm looking for recommendations on what 2 stains to mix to get the red oak look; or, what to add to a base stain to get some red into it. Thanks. TIM/

We moved into a new home that has the air vent going to the furnace. I know that it is supposed to be there, but honestly, it brings in so much cold air. It feels like a window is open all the time. The duct work is about 5 feet long to reach the furnace and the opening at the end of the duct is 8" across. It is also just open...no screen on it or anything so I'm sure critters come through it all the time. (did I mention I hate spiders)? Is this normal and can you at least add more duct so it diminishes in size? Can you cap it off with screen or something to prevent things coming in? Any help would be appreciated. Joan

Or you can go to WWW.APPLEBYSPLUMBINGANDSUPPLY.COM I have allsorts and brands of plumbing products.I also can get the faucets you need at below manufacturers price.

Blank. Back to animal woes ... it appears that we have a possum in the crawlspace under our house. I don't know if he/she is living under there or just going on expeditions at times. The crawlspace under our house is about 2 ft high, so I am not about to go belly-crawling under there (or send my husband) with the prospect of coming face to face with a rather large possum. (Which is what happened last night ... I went out to the garage to get a load of laundry. While there, I thought I would peek behind the hot water heater to see if there was a hole -- as I suspected -- large enough for possum ingress. Being rather nearsighted, I leaned down to get a good look -- and came face to face with a large and surly possum just coming out from under the heater. I don't think I've shrieked that loud since the last time I was tossed into a pool with all my clothes on.) (BTW, I went back and looked this morning, and there IS a possum-sized hole in the wall there.) I don't want to kill the possum, just keep him out. My question: How can I make sure the darned marsupial (and possibly her progeny -- oh, dear, there's a scary thought!) are not in the crawlspace before closing it up? I do not want to go down there or send my husband, if at all possible. Is there any sort of substance I can throw in there that is not offensive to humans but is to possums, to drive him/her/them out of there? Thanks for any ideas on this!! Ann

First, thanks to those that helped on the "New outlet in bath", it was the brass tab on the stacker switch that was giving me problems. My current dilemna involves one of my windows (38"w x 78"h), we have window air conditioners and would like to remove them for the winter (gets a little cold here in Chicago). I have double hung windows, fairly old, oak, with counter weights. One of my windows has a single, 3/4 length sash and then an air conditioner. If I take out the a/c there will be a big hole to fill. Does anyone have any reccomendations, preferably in the Chicago area, on where to locate replacement sashes? I need to replace with a double hung set. Thanks in advance for any help. Don

I have been given a wonderful old clawfooted tub--the inside porcelain finish is in great shape although the outside has some surface rusting. I'm not going to be able to get this installed for a while, maybe not even 'til Spring and will be storing it under my deck, elevated on 2x4's and covered with a tarp. Would I be better off clearing the existing rust off (with a wire brush and sanding ?) and priming now, before I store it or wait and do it all when I'm ready to install. Thanks, Marci

OK, this one has me stumped. My refrigerator, which is now 14 years old, is starting to emmit a high pitched alarm. Sounds remarkably like a fire alarm but the sound lasts only for a second or so and does not come back for at least 2 minutes. What could be causing this? The refigerator is still running ok. It is Kenmore with an icemaker. I did move it about 3 weeks ago to paint behind it but everything was fine until early this morning. I am pretty sure that is the source of the alarm, but what could be causing it is a mystery. Any suggestions? Ande

Which way is the best way to lay laminate flooring on a step separating two hallways? One hallway will be ceramic tile (the one leading to the back door) and the other hallway will be laminate flooring, (the hallway that connects the rooms). The direction of the laminate flooring hallway is the same direction as the hallway (lengthwise). So, then, which way should I lay the laminate step: across the tread, meaning that it would be perpendicular to the hallway laminate direction, or in the same direction as the hallway laminate, meaning it would be about 4 small pieces cut to the tread depth and laid together.

_ = Hello, I just switched to EarthLink. Check out my new email address - gonnie@...! Regards, Karen Bollesen

Does any one know what a ground hog loves to eat. I am trying to trap one and I used broccoli, without results. Today I got some alfalfa and mixed it with peanut butter. I hope this works. Interested in all input. MC

Hi, This is my first post to the group. This is a great group and I wish it had been around 19 years ago when I first starting redoing my 1925 house. Anyway, my 40 gal. gas water heater (about 15 years old) has developed a small leak. How long to I have before the heater breaks and floods my basement? Is there something I could patch it with? I know 15 years is a long life for a water heater, but I was hoping I could eke out some more time before I replace it. I checked Home Depot, and their prices for 40 gal. GE gas heaters run from $219 to $309, 34K BTU to 40K BTU. I'm planning to sell this house next year, so I don't think I want the highest cost one, which has a 9 year warranty. Does it make that much difference if I go for the cheapest one (6year warranty)? Also Home Depot will install it for ONLY $209! That seems pretty expensive to me. I had a plumber install the one I have now, but I can't remember what the charge was. How difficult would it be to install it myself? (One caveat - I don't know how to solder water lines - I've always used compression fittings on copper plumbling lines.) Thanks in advance, Elise

When I re-do my bathroom, I want to get a shower head nozzle that pulls out of the corner of the bathtub like the nozzle that you might have at a kitchen sink. I've seen these in magazines, but not recently. Anytime I try to describe this to someone, they don't seem to understand what I'm talking about. Can anyone tell me what this is called and/or direct me to a website that might have at least a picture. Thanks Leslie, Xena, Zeus, Hercules, & Thor Oklahoma City, OK

Hi all! I am wanting to install a dimmer switch on my ceiling fan. The fan has a halogen light on it as well. Can a dimmer switch be used on a 100 watt halogen bulb? Just wondering. Didn't want to blow anything up if I installed it! Thanks! Nancy

Hello, I put a bay window in earlier this summer and I'm trying to figure out how to "dress off" the bottom outside portion of it. It comes out of the side of the house 14 inches, and I would like to build a "fake" wall from the bottom of the window straight to the ground. Then face that with the fake rock ( man made cement rocks ) facing. In doing that do I need to pour any kind of a cement pad for the interior of the fake wall? ( we live in Michigan, so frost may come into consideration ). If now, how do I keep critters from burrowing underneath the wood to ground and making nest and such? I would also like in insulate that wall, since it is an outside wall, I suppose it would make the window seat warmer. Please, any thoughts or direction would be great - Denise

I'm ready to throw in the towel on this one. OK, I finally replaced the stem in the faucet that was leaky. It doesn't leak any more, but 1. it now turns on and off in the opposite direction, which is driving hubby nuts, and 2. It doesn't "feel" the same as the other one when I turn it off and on. You can keep turning it after the water stops. Can anyone help us out with these two things? Maribeth

I was astounded yesterday when I drove into our driveway next to my wifes 2000 Ford Taurus. Her car horn went off like it had an anti-theft horn device on it. We bought that car used, but if it does, we never knew it. I pushed on my electronic key button for opening the door and it stopped honking, but I am not sure if it was because of my action or if it had just run its course. Question: How would I know if I have an anti-theft device on that car? If it doesn't have it, why would it act in this "once only in my experience" way? Thanks. Gene

Well as I said in my original post, this is a new situation for me. After reading all the responses (which I appreciate), I see just how clueless I am. This is for me, I have a condition called neurosarcoidosis. I am progressively going downhill. For instance this week I have lost the use of my hands, unable to raise my arms, and unable to walk twice. My lung function has dropped at times to 58 percent and I have gone blind twice. This condition can affect any part of my body and in different ways each day, it is very similar to MS. As you can see it will be a total revamping. I am lucky in the sense that my brother has done constructon work all his life and I will have free labor, but medical bills have wiped me out. I will be seaking donations from the big boy home improvement stores and other orginizations. Even with this, I can not afford to make mistakes. I am just seeking as much info as I can find in order to try to do things right. Thank You, runtel P.S. It's Mrs. runtel LOL

Hi All... I'm using a standard 7 1/4 inch circular saw. I can do plunge cuts, and I can do bevel cuts. I've never done a plunge cut with a bevel, and although in my mind I can see no reason it would not work, using the correct technique, my gut tells me that this is a no-no. I want to cut a rectangular opening in 3/4" ply with the two long sides having a 15 degree bevel. The two short sides would be square. Is this possible? What is the correct technique? (just a link is OK) Can anyone point me to some good on-line circular saw technique pages? (there is a lot more than this that I need to learn) Is there a better way to accomplish this? Thanks, Vorpal

Hi...i'm preparing for the future and want to know what the best way to remove linoleum when it's been installed over hardwood floor. I'm assuming that the floor will be in pretty bad condition...not sure, but will probably end up with carpet tiles or something like that...but since the linoleum also goes into the kitchen...need to know what to expect as far as necessary tools or whatever. Thanks, Ocean

To all, First... thanks for the sprinkler valve advise. New issue, my wife informed me that the garbage disposal wasn't working. After fishing out food debris (particularly carrot shavings) and resetting the trip switch on the bottom of the disposal I tried running the device. All that resulted was a electrical hum. I shut off the power and proceeded to do more debris removal. I spent an hour removing more carrot shavings from between the inner wall of the disposal and the circular rotating plate. I tried to spin the plate using my hands but it is frozen in position. A normal disposal should have a plate that will spin freely when turned by hand. I probably have carrot shavings still lodged between the plate and the inner wall of the disposal. Questions... how can I free up the plate and/or remove the remaining food debris? Will Drano work to disolve the food, or do I need to disassemble the disposal. If I need to disassemble do I need to remove the entire disposal or can I do it while still piped up to the sink? Any help would be deeply appreciated. Regards, Chris

I am having a problem with my toilet and am wondering if anyone can help me fix it. I am getting a black ring in my toilet at the waterline in the bowl. I will clean the toilet and in a day or so the ring starts again, slowly. I can't figure out why. In a week or so if I don't clean the bowl the ring at the waterline will be black. The bottom and sides of the bowl will also have buildup on it too. I am thinking that it might have to do with the cast iron sewer line that it flushes into, but could it have something to do with the waterline? I am also contemplating replacing the whole unit anyway because of all the old parts that I keep having to fix and buying a nice super flush model. Anyone have any brands or models that they could suggest? phil

I need to start thinking about making my home handicap accessible. This is a completely new situation for me and was just wondering if any of you had any advice. Thanks , runtel

Large PVC pipe here means anything over an inch. This is a two-person operation. One handles the saw, one turns the pipe. You can use any fine-toothed saw for this--a Japanese backsaw works well. You will need some sort of a jig. I use the backrest on my radial-arm saw, but you can just nail a 2x4 to your workbench, the floor or whatever. The sawer holds the handle in one hand, the blade in the other and just pulls the saw back and forth. The pipe-turner turns the pipe. If your saw cuts on the forward stroke, turn the pipe toward the sawer. If it cuts on the backstroke, turn the pipe away from the sawer. You just saw and turn until you're all the way through. It's quick and efficient and gives you a nice square end. -- --jmowreader

you have me on this one. I have never heard of anyone burying a supply valve in a yard. However,,if the valve is there it has got to be close by. I am assuming that the water supply is coming from your house, so I would dig down right outside where the water line comes out of the wall and follow it from there.

I looked at your drawing and I don't see any problem with putting the tub spout and the shower spout in any configuration you want. The control valve which turns the water onand off and mixes hot and cold is the main item to look at. There are two shutoffs behind the wall on the valve,,,,,did you turn them BOTH back ON? If your gettin cold water at both spouts and no hot from either spout then the hot water is not getting through the valve. either the hot is not turned on or a part in the mechanism is plugged up, not working, etc. Remember that as you go from hot to cold,,,,the cold gradually startsd to close up until all you get is hot. hope this helps.

To all, I have a water supply valve (not a sprinkler head) that is not functioning. I need to find it and repair or replace it. Trouble is the valve is buried in my yard and I have no idea where it is located. I talked to a local lawn maintenance service about this. For the low price of $65/hr they'll come out and locate it with a special "device". I asked what specifically this device was, how it worked, and where I might be able to rent one. Needless to day few details were volunteered. I tried poking around in the yard with a thin metal rod in hopes of finding the valve box, but that turned up nothing. I really want to fix this valve myself in order to save money, here are my questions: - What is the best way to locate this valve? - Does anyone have any information on the device this lawn maintenance service might be referencing? - If so where might I be able to find or purchase such a device? - Typically, how deep are these supply valves buried? A couple of facts about my sprinkler system: - There are 4 zones (zone 4 doesn't work, all the rest do) - The wiring from the controller to the water supply valves appears to be run in a single wire bundle... which leads me to think that the 4 water supply valves are located close to one another. Any help or advice would be deeply appreciated.

congratulations!!! enjoy your new convenience :-) Meghan Fitzpatrick <megs1@... thread is from a month and a half ago, but I just thought I'd update everyone that it's done. This is the first "major" project I've done on my house, and boy am I proud of myself (well, I guess mostly my boyfriend and his dad). We ended up going into the main water lines of the house and adding new copper lines for hot and cold, instead of trying to piggy back off the washer lines. The sink is awesome, and it's way easier to bathe the dogs. Plus having access to water in the laundry room for stain removal and general cleaning is super! robin grunzweig kitysmom2@... mission viejo, ca usa "To live a creative life, we must lose our fear of being wrong." --Joseph Chilton Pearce

DH and I are putting up a wall in the back yard. We are going 2 blocks high (cinder blocks) and will have a raised flower garden in it. DH wants to cover the blocks with rocks. We haven't decided what kind of rock....maybe cobblestones. My question is this: can you use mastic outside to stick the rocks onto the blocks and then grout around them? It gets to below freezing here. Are there different kinds of mastic? Thanks, Joan

Jim, Thanks for sharing this--it made my day! Even more so, since I have actually accomplished this task (and had everything I needed, minus the porn) with the help of an HD employee, who explained it out from start to finish. He even went above & beyond, by giving me his cel phone number, in case I ran into problems--since this is the only one we have. Thanks to his wonderfully detailed instructions (& notes), I didn't need to make that call--except to his manager for kudos! Marci

If you have a Habitat Restore in your area check them out. You might have to go a number of times to find what you want, but I am constantly amazed at the stuff they have. They get stuff from de- constructions, including old houses (especially if there are lots in your area), as well as extras from new construction and stuff that's just not selling in stores. I have seen fantastic, old, detailed doors at ReStore for pennies on the dollar of what similar ones were selling for at antique stores (just none to fit my back door, so far). And the great thing is all the profits go back to Habitat for Humanity! Good luck, Marci (P.S. Are you anywhere near KC,MO? If so, I'll try to keep a lookout for you!)

Just about finished pressure washing my drive way. Any suggestions for a good concrete sealer? Application methods roll, spray on? Thanks Mike

Hi all, We are talking about replacing a very old, cracked single-pane window in our living room. It is pretty large. It is on the first floor and I think that my DH and I can do it ourselves, but my big question is how do we measure the thing to make sure we get the right size. I'm sure that we will have to special order it, and I don't want to mess up! thanks teri

I bought a 6 foot stainless hood for my kitchen, and I hope to have my new stove soon. I need to put in an exhaust fan, but I have no idea of what size I would need. can anybody give me any ideas on how to size the unit. the kitchen is 12 By 30 feet, and I will ahve a 6 burner commercial stove and I want a small grill and fryolater as well. Thanks in advance John

Question: I am planning on a number of ceramic tile projects. I have installed 1/2" Durock in the family room but have not tiled it yet because I do not like the idea of having to use such a large rise reducer to blend it with the non-tiled sections. Is there a way to get around having to use Durock? Can I just apply ceramic tile right over a vinyl floor? The unfortunate thing is that the family room has asbestos flooring. I covered it with Durock because I was worried about safety factors. Since I do not like the height of the Durock, if I attempt to unscrew and remove it will I not be exposing myself to a possible heath hazard because of asbestos dust? I heard you can reduce the risk by wetting it down, but I am still leery about how safe this is. Joe

Walmart's OK to bash. Right?? For all those PC folks--yes, I do go there (sometimes), but I love to hate it--LOL Joe

29Aug04 Hello Group, Seems there is some back-biting going on in this group. Gentelmen, pelase remember we r dealing with the weaker sex & must do so with gentalness.(Yea Right!) Also ladies, a thought u should have ingrained in u'r cognitive short & long term memory is males also have to deal with PMS. Thats right PMS, we try not to let it become publick knowledge but its been confirmed by many higher schoolars, doctors, & science, for males: PMS = Permanent Male Stuptidy. Backing u guys all the way to the end zone!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bye, jdb

I curently have a bathroom with no outlet, it does have 2 lights with separate switches. I wanted to add a GFCI outlet and a double switch to have an outlet in the bathroom. I opened up the box and I have a black and white going to 1 switch, a black and red going to the second switch and a single white that is capped off. Can anyone help me with the best way to wire the additional outlet? Thanks, Don

The locks (both the key & inside pull thingy) in DD's "new car a 1986 Mazda 626 gets stuck periodically and the door won't open. She was warned by the neighbor she bought it from, but forgot to ask if there was a remedy & they are on a month long honeymoon in Europe. After happening once for about half a day, the passenger side door has been stuck locked for several days. The problem appears to be behind the door panel as they key turns freely & graphite in the keyhole had no effect; the latchhook appeared to move freely when it was open(but then what do I know). Will spraying WD 40 into the base of the pull thingy help? Will it hurt anything besides possibly making a mess of the window for a while? If no idea how to fix, any idea how to just get it open? We're leaving the driver's side unlocked for now, but really would like to get the passenger side unlocked. I'm supposed to be teaching her how to drive (it's the only car we have), but am supposed to be in the passenger side to do so (& I'm not up to hauling my fat, arthritic body over the console)! Thanks, Marci

That's better. Thanks. And yes, I do feel more comfortable now........... Thanks and Best regards, Raj Lele

29Aug04 When & how does a new member enter your chat room? Do u have a set day & time for a weekly chat or at ramdon chats? Would like to listen to some of the talk, see if I can offer any input to conversation. My field prime trainning is in the electricial, then HVAC & concrete foundations. In the field, of the electrical industry, I've knowledge in all areas, residinual, commerial, and industrial. I"ve have both worked on my hand tools, for my apperanceship thur master lic. I've designed electricial systems for several applications. From your email to me when I registered you stated you monortor the first few posts to check them, very good standard to have. This is my first post so I'll see how you respond. Good Day & Thanks, jdb

Due to the artistic endevors of a 6 yo child I am getting to paint the wood work around my front door and porch. The paint that is on there is old and at places is flaking off, how much to I need to remove before I can begin painting? I know that the flakes have to go, but is it necessary get the paint that isn't flaking off, also? Is there a paint stripping product on the market that doesn't require rinsing with water? I am thinking that a stripper will be easier than what I am doing, but there is no place anywhere near the area to get water from for rinsing. I almost forgot...the paint that is being removed is white and I am going back with white...don't know if that makes a difference but thought I had better put it in to be sure I had as much information about this project listed as possible. Thanks in advance! Laura in OK

Hi, I thought that I had completed all the electrical work two weeks ago, but this week the new GFCI outlet in the bathroom has inexplicably ceased to work. I had accidentally blown one outlet, and then we had an electrician come, who found out the problem (a problem that could not be a possibility this time around), and rewired it. But of course it was already blown, so I replaced it, wiring it the exact same way: black wire to brass and white wire to zinc, both on the line side (end of run wiring). And it worked, for a week and a half. Mid this week, I noticed that the green light was off. Things plugged into it no longer ran. I of course tried the reset button, no luck. I turned off the circuit, unwired and rewired it tightly, the same way, turned the circuit on, and still no power. It is spliced into another wire in the attic above, a 4-way splice with a whole house fan. The whole house fan still works, so the splice in the attic could not be loose. Is there anything that I could have done wrong...? Or is it just a lemon, in which case I'll return it under warranty to home depot tomorrow? thanks! -Bernard

I am really glad to see that we are not the only ones with LOTS of pets! LOL! Our roll call of strictly indoor cats (by age, eldest first): Ursus; Georgina; Zephyr; Sacred Purr Tom Bombadil (call name "Boomer"); Buster Keaton; Eartha Kitten; and John Carter, Warlord of Barsoom. And our one outdoor second-class citizen kitty: Gray Boy. Too many litterboxes .... :) ~Ann

OK, I have to chime in, as well: all cats. Buckethead, Doodlebug, Chessie, Casey ,Charlie Brown ,Sadie, and Swoop Stuart

Hi Everybody, I am so happy to have found and joined your group. I am a dyed-in-the-wool woman DIYer (it's recreation isn't it?). I volunteered for Habitat for Humanity for 10 yrs., picking up tidbits on rehabbing, restoring, & fixing up old homes (as well as constructing new ones). I have also taken Adult Ed courses in plumbing, residential wiring, & carpentry. I am embarrassed to say that I haven't used most of my "skills" recently, & don't really have the technical vocabulary to describe what I'm trying to do. "Doodad" is usually the best I can do. I live in Western NY, & own a house built in 1920, so there is a lot of work to be done. Right now I'm working on repairing the plaster & lath ceiling in the bathroom. I'm waiting for my internet order for "plaster washers" while the plaster dust settles on the floor & fixtures LOL. I have a gazillion questions!!! I'll post one separately. Can't wait to participate, share, & get to know everybody. - Pon (aka Wildflower)

Hi, Ok, this REALLY is dumb! ...but I have to fix it. I have old triple-track aluminum storms on many windows. I had trouble getting the windows to lift (push up) this spring. After much struggling, I got the screen section out. Nothing's broken--the little "fingers"(?)are still intact & in the track, but the screen won't lift beyond a certain point. It seems that the frame could be out of square (?). But there is another possibility-- could I have the windows placed incorrectly, ie. the wrong one on the top, etc? If so, which goes where? (I'm able to understand explanations better than I am asking questions). If the window placement is NOT the problem, & the frame isn't square, could I shave off some metal to make the screen move along the track rather than replace the storm? If so, what would you use to shave aluminum? It would probably be easier to replace the whole thing but that would require a two floor trip up the ladder. TIA, Pon (aka Wildflower)

I have a three year old Sears LT1000 riding lawn mower (just out of warranty) whose gas tank has started to leak. Have any of you out there changed out the tank on a similar model? It is really buried under the seat above the differential and I'm not sure if special tools are required. Thanks for any info.

Hi, I was searching the web on this topic and about a million different opinions came up. Since I trust you folks, I thought I'd ask you. I want to paint it white, as it will be a built-in bookcase someday soon (hopefully). So, should I use a sealer? If so, what kind. I was hoping I could just use latex semi-gloss in multiple layers and go, but don't want regret it later. So, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Anne

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to cause a problem. I was trying to be friendly and I'll leave now. Sidney

We might be able to order this for you. www.applebysplumbingandsupply.com

Anybody have any suggestions? My Home Depot designer designed my small kitchen with a 24" sink base next to an 18" dishwasher, and told me I'd need to get a 22 x 22 sink, which he told me was a standard size. The problem is that I've been searching the internet endlessly, and there doesn't seem to be that size, only even tinier "bar sinks"! I can't use a bar sink, I need the biggest sink possible, because this is my kitchen sink! Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes one, or a website that allows you to search by size?

i put in a new surround shower stall. when i got the holes cut for the shower valve, it only came out of the hole about an inch. before the whole valve was out. i cannot attatch the handle . any ideas without having to replace valve? thanks..mike

In a message dated 8/25/2004 4:00:10 PM Central Standard Time, daveu@... writes: You get creative. Sell stock, or liquidate any other assets you might have. hit up friends, family, church, etc for a "loan", find out options for construction loans. live in an RV on the construction site with your stuff in storage or farmed out to friends willing to loan storage space. Live in a cheap apartment, again with possessions sold or in storage. Just wanted to add to this. Often it is cheaper to have a big garage sale and get rid of most of your things. Moving the stuff can be expensive and time consuming and renting a storage space is not cheap. Also consider that your furniture might not fit or look good in your new home. So I'd sell or toss everything I really could do without. Joe

does anyone have suggestions on books about buying land and building your own house? i am the financier at our house, and i'm clueless. how do you assess a property for worthiness? how do you choose a contractor? or can i manage getting all the sub-contracts? how do you get $$$$$ for all this without being a millionaire? any suggestions appreciated. mars

DH and I (mostly DH) are putting the 2nd coat of stucco on the back wall of our 50 year old house. The scratch coat went on fine. DH said there were 2 mistakes with the scratch coat: not scratched enough, and the finish coat was supposed to on w/in 36hrs. Oh well. So it's 2 wks later, and the finish coat is NOT sticking very well to the scratch coat. It seems like there is a very tiny margin for error in the moisture content of the mix. We let the first batch sit for awhile hoping to dry it out some. Any tips for getting this 2nd coat up without going nucking futs? thanks!!! mars

Does anyone know of a way to send a signal or low voltage through a wire for identification purposes??? I hope this isn't confusing, but say I am working on a bundle of wires (50) or so and all similiar colors. at the other end i need to be able to identify the wire on both ends. normally i would use a continuity tester but but the run is way too long. I went to home depot and bought a tone and probe set but it didn't not come with very good instructions and no one at the depot could explain to me how to use it. so i returned it. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Paul

Is there any solution for getting out bleach spots on clothes?

Hate to have to say this, but check with your city or county about whether or not you need a permit to replace windows. In permit-happy California, where we are, you are supposed to have a permit to replace an entire window. (No, I am not making this up!) It is okay to replace glass in an existing window but a whole new window requires a permit here. Also, you can run into difficulties because there are requirements about how far from the floor bedroom windows are allowed to be (fire laws), and if you are putting in a new window here, it is supposed to follow the new rules, not the old, even if you are just putting in a window EXACTLY where the old one used to be. Jeesh .... Anyway, it is cheaper to pay for a permit up front than to retro-pay for the permit anyway plus fines. Also a sight easier not to have to move the #$%%*&!! window 2" downward after you have already installed it. (Thus speaks the voice of experience!) Ann

who ever was looking for that smoke damage removal company i found it its servepro and there number is 1-800-servepro. they whould help

I am not sure what help I can be except to say that windows are like roofs--incredibly costly to have put in by others. If you can either contract out to a handyman or do the work yourself you will gain by such home improvements. On the other hand, if you will have to hire a team it can be a nightmare in scheduling, as well as expensive. Good luck Joe In a message dated 8/24/2004 2:14:14 PM Central Standard Time, carenge@... writes: Hi there... Anyone have any tips re: window replacement?? I am considering having the windows in my 50yr old cape replaced, and unsure of cost,etc...there are fifteen windows....all suggestions graciously accepted :) Carole

Hi guys, I,m new to your group and I have a question I need help with ASAP!!! Does anyone know how to put in the old type of air conditioner braces and if so, could you please give me step by step instructions....I'm about to tear my hair out. Thanks, artemistaylor

I have water coming into my basement that may be seeping in under the Bilco doors. The whole thing rests on a cement ledge. What should I use to seal up the seams? Thanks.

Anybody know of an easier way to remove quite a few layers of paint from a porch floor? I'm using that "Peel Away" stuff and it's doing a pretty good job but it's taking numerous coats. It's taking forever! On a positive note, this stuff doesn't have an offensive odor and cleans up with water.

My swivel chair has developed an annoying squeaking when turning. Dosen't matter clockwise or counterclockwise. I've tried 3-in-one oil and a spray lubricant, but the more I put on, the more it squeaks. It's an older chair and has metal parts (unlike the newer all plastic ones). It seems to be coming where the metal post goes into the wheelbase. Anyone have any more ideas what can be done to eliminate the squeaking?

In addition to checking the belt, it sounds like you have a clog. Does the rotating brush have a bunch of hairs and gunk wrapped around it? That is another cause. Unplug the thing, and flip it over so that the bottom part that contains the brush is facing you (handle release is helpful). Get a screwdriver and unscrew the faceplate there. From here, you can pull the brush out and check on the belt, etc. If it is the belt or something is rubbing against the belt, you will need a new one. Either go to Sears or Wal Mart with your brand in mind, or a hardware store. ALso check for clogs and pull out any hairs, strings, or lint you find. It's pretty easy to do and that usually fixes it. KAti Having gone through a multitude of vaccuums In Iowa

Laura, Don't burn them! It is illegal. I wouldn't want to bury them either. What we (and others around here) do is either rent a large dumpster OR park an older pick up truck in the yard closer to the house. Designate someone as a "picker upper" of shingles. They go around throughout the day and throw shingles into the back of the truck...obviously you can move the truck for convenience. Then when the job is all finished, go to your local dump/landfill. We have one that is about 45 minutes away from our house. When we took in the load (we also had a trailer they were in as well) (you may have more than one load) it was about $30.00. THey have designated areas for household garbage, construction, appliances, etc. Don't forget your shovels and back up to whatever pile is for your stuff and start shovelling it out. That's what we do for all our construction/remodel projects. You could probably call your waste management company and ask around if you don't know where your closest landfill is. Kati In Iowa

How do I dispose of shingles properly? We are starting on the roof in the next week, plus there is a hole full of them left by the previous owners. I was going do have a big hole dug to dispose of all the crap that was left in the yard by the previous owners, and was planning on burning it...however I have been informed that burning shingles is illegal...and that just burying them is also illegal if I get turned in, which is a very good possibility as we are in a sort of feud with some neighbors. I wasn't planning on getting a construction dumpster, as that will put the repairs off for financial reasons. Any ideas? Laura in OK p.s. Dale and everyone who knows about my house, I have also started finding the brick and cement blocks to fix the foundation! So once the roof is done, we will be starting on that adventure.

Hey, were new and in the process of buying a house that needs some fixing up. anyone got any advice. it needs paint and we want to adventually add another bathroom on it plus build a pattio to go sit on and relax a bit. Its got a huge yard in the back but there has been a cement thing to put extra cars on that we want gone so we have a yard. Or bigger one at least. Also we want to put up a privicy fince in the back part so there isnt any problems in the future. Anyone got any advice? let us know. kris and randy

2 problems-1. The water from my washing machine is coming up in my kitchen sinks. 2. The water is full of crud (dirt, debris, assorted gunk) that isn't on my clothes. Suggestions/solutions?? Thanks, Diana (mopping water from flooded kitchen)

Have you thought about checking on a vinyl product. They make panels for closing in porch ceilings. Probably cost less than plywood especially after the hurricane and it want have to be painted or stained. Robert

So I hired this painter, and Stooopidly enough, fell for his "pay me by the hour!! We're REALLY FAST" spiel. Ha. At any rate, we wanted a very low-key finish for our kitchen doors. NO SHINE. He convinced us that "the way" to do it was to do two layers of high gloss, followed by two layers of satin. Economizing, I decided to go for one layer of each, and I'm looking at the most god-awful ugly kitchen doors that I've ever seen. These are brand new and look like they're old with lots of layers of lacquer (which might just be the shiny stuff), but they LOOK WET. I am so mad. Is there any way to make them stop looking like a freaking playboy centerfold (with water spritzed on them), and have them go back to looking like (dare I say it?) WOOD??? Any advice out there? thank you so much. Sign me: screwed up again in California.

Hello, My name is Anita and I live in Lawrenceville, Georgia. We went to a school auction and bid on and won a lot of toggle sets to mount TV's or heavy shelves. They each contain: 4 3/8 x 1 7/8 sleeve anchors 3 toggler bolt 3/8 w/screw 3 washers 1 1/8 x 7/16 x 1/16 We have no idea what to do with all of them (over 390 sets). We've tried to sell them on eBay with very little luck. Any ideas on who could use them, how to sell them, give them away or anything that we can do with them will be appreciated. Thanks. Anita

I am about to start work on a townhouse circa 1974. It need lots of love but very little actual repair. I plan on removing the carpet and putting in hardwood floors, square parquet times and new subfloor and also to replace the original aluminum siding with vinyl and adding new sheathing and insulation. Any helpful hints? Thanks in advance, Charles

It started as a joke--we kept taking mice away from the pet critters & freeing them, but got to wondering if any were coming back--so we thought of the nail polish. The next time it happened, here came my daughter with the nail polish-LOL!! We both wear heavy duty leather garden gloves--corner it in a deep box & paint any set of nails (whatever hideously bright color is on sale) we can get to without holding it much. I'm not afraid of holding them, as I used to regularly hold the rats & mice, without gloves, the nature center raised for food (for snakes, raptors & baby bobcats, etc)--I just don't want them to have a heart attack in the process. I've only euthanized 2 marked mice, both of whom I'd actually marked twice (gave them the benefit of the doubt) and several injured ones. I learned how to quickly & painlessly (?) break their necks on a hard edge as a volunteer at the nature center. I avoided it then, unless absolutely necessary, and still do so, but won't let an animal suffer & just have to draw the line somewhere with little varmints getting into my cabinets & stove! Marci

In a message dated 8/20/2004 8:04:35 PM Central Daylight Time, kcisis@... writes: I don't love working with them, and I just HATE finding them in the house. In the two cases I've removed them, I threw a big beach towel over the bat and dumped it in a box and then took the box outside and shook the towel out so the bat could fly away. I wouldn't touch them without something on my hands. I also caught a racoon in the driveway and took it to the local wildlife rehab center where they euthanized it because it was rabid. Again, I had it in a box in the back seat of my tiny little convertible. I knew it was sick as I would never have been able to catch a racoon in a box without a fight had it not been sick, but I was hoping it was not beyond help. And a racoon is not something I ever want to fight with, as I'd get the short end of that stick for sure. Sidney, another tree hugger and animal nut

If you live in an old house, the consensus in our old neighborhood is that you'll never win, but only partially succeed. The trick is to close off any space they can get in through--as small or smaller than a dime, if memory serves me--an impossible task in an old house. We have 4 cats (formerly 5) and 2 dogs--you'd think the little beasties would learn there are safer places to live. We paint the nails (literally) of any we get away from the pets live & release them in a wooded area far from houses. Any injured mice (or those with painted nails) get the coup de grace. A neighbor has had some success keeping them out of her kitchen & pantry area using a squirrel repellant (I know Havaheart is one brand) and I may try that as the sonic devices drive the hedgehog & gerbil bonkers. As to bats, check with your local animal control--they'll remove them for free in a lot of areas. Bats can carry rabies and are the most likely animal to do so. We've had a couple rabid bats in the greater metro area, but I understand that problems with rabid bats are increasing across the US. You can be bitten by a bat without realizing it, no problem if the bat isn't rabid, but if it is, it's likely your death sentence. I used to rehab wild animals (as a volunteer) and have had prophylactic rabies shots (so you're safe if I bite you) and love working with bats, but only in heavy clothing & welders gloves & only when necessary--if I were bitten, I'd still need to undergo regular rabies shots--not as bad as they used to be, but still not fun. Marci--who is most definitely a tree hugger & certified animal nut

Just last week, my cat and I out were in the garage, when he got a glue board stuck to his butt. I've never laughed so hard in my life! I think he bounced off of every single item out there before he managed to knock it off and then hid under the car for an hour. Stuart

In a message dated 8/20/2004 8:02:25 AM Central Daylight Time, cmgreenjr@... writes: Is that the filter that goes into the furnace or the purifier itself? Its the purifier that we are looking at buying. THANKS Sidney

I'm working on renovating an upstairs bathroom. The original floor was 1" hex tile, and ideally I would like to restore this. Unfortunately, the prior owner decided that using tar to glue down the ugliest indoor/outdoor carpet you've ever seen (bright orange) would be a super idea. Did I mention he used LOTS of tar? Yes. Anyway, should i give up on restoring the original tile, and if so, what's the best way to completely remove the tile, tar and ugly rug? If anyone thinks I can remove the tar only (I was thinkin' "belt-sander") I'm open to suggestions. Assuming that I'll have to remove the tile (a job I haven't had to tackle before) is there a tool that I can use/rent? Cheers, Mark

In the process of changing all the deadbolts & knobs in the house (wanted matching keys), I discovered this on the front door. The knob is a schlage, probably around 1960. It's a regular knob. I had totally forgotten the weird handle thingie. It's two pieces - the flat piece, and then the handle. When you put the "apron" (don't know the real word) around the knob, it completely fills the center, perfect match. Then the handle screws to the plate at the top, and there's a screw into the door at the bottom. I want to get a replacement one of these, but have NO idea what they are called, or where to find one, if there's an internet source. The guys at Home Depot yesterday were clueless, and all their front handles were integrated, one piece ones. I've also uploaded a picture to the photos section - the VERY last picture, called "mystery hardware". Thanks so much in advance, Maribeth

In a message dated 8/19/2004 6:36:38 PM Central Daylight Time, kcisis@... writes: THANKS!

One of our local TV stations just did a comparison on several types & models of air purifiers. The general consensus was that the HEPA filter systems were most effective and two models of several they checked were the best. I thought I'd remember the names (I'm interested in getting one myself), but have forgotten. I couldn't find it on their website, so I've emailed asking them for details & will let you know once I hear from them--thought I'd compare their findings with Consumer Reports. Marci

I have always heard that if there are kids or animals around to not use poison. I have a good friend that always tells me to just get some poison and put it where the mice have been spotted, or their little leave-behinds. But I have kids one of which is too young to know better. Plus last time we had poison out, the darn things ate it like we were leaving them a feast and then I think they go t bigger from it. Like mutant mice or something. There were a few that went off the deep end...one even kept trying to sit in my lap one night in the easy chair. Don't think I didn't jump up hollering! I have used glue traps, dryer sheets, humane traps, clamp-down type Victor snap traps, a broom, drowning methods, cats, dogs, sonic devices, caught one in a jar once, and thought about just letting them stay in peace (Until they pooped on my counter). GLue traps work for about a week, then they catch on (no pun intended there). Dryer sheets seems to work to repel mice from stored items...but only directly around the sheet. Humane traps worked on the smaller mice and after a while the mice caught on to those. The snap traps work well, if you know where they are at and change up baits and empty them right away before another mouse sees what you have done (they try to drag the mouse, trap and all away). Broom is used for scared baby mice that are scared stiff and don't run away; they get a smack. Drowning methods go along with the humane traps, glue traps, and snap traps when just a leg gets stuck. Animals work well, but then you have a whole other set of problems.. especially if the majority of your house is allergic. Sonic devices work ok but just around the immediate area. The jar thing was a baby mouse and I had just had a baby, so I was feeling sorry for it and made hubby do the dirty work. The bucket thing works for a lot of people...I have always heard that rats can swim, though. I can't use it for the drowning risk for my smaller kids. There, everything you ever wanted to know about how I catch mice. Kati in Iowa...

In need of some of this group's DIY know-how. We are in the process of having a screened porch built. We just found out that the builder did not include in his quote the cost of covering the rafters inside the porch and he now says the roofing nails will show poke through the particle board roofing if we don't do this, but he gave us a price of $525 for covering the rafter area with plywood. It will take 11 sheets at nearly $18 a sheet, plus the labor and stain. My question is-is there a less expensive material that we can use for this that will be okay to use for the screen porch ceiling that will stand up to moisture? Pinching pennies, as we also found out that we need to reroof the house, as the 25 yr shingles are shot after only 12 years, yikes! Susan

Sure, you can bend it back but I would not recommend it because you won't get the wobble out of it. Best thing is to take it to a bike shop. If it can be fixed they have tools that can adequately do it. You may need new spokes and you will definitely need your wheel trued which they will do on a truing stand. If I were you I'd take the whole bike in (not just the wheel). It may be that when you took your spill you also knocked your derailleur hanger off a bit. I did something similar and the guy checked the hanger and straightened it out for free. If it cannot be fixed and you can wait a week I'd go to one of the catalog companies such as Performance Bike or Nashbar (they are on the web). You can get a wheel for about half of what it would cost in a bike store. Just make sure to order the correct size (a 700 will sub for a 27"). Good luck, Joe In a message dated 8/18/2004 3:45:56 PM Central Standard Time, gthiemann@... writes: I slightly bent the back wheel of my bicycle when I skidded and fell on a wet street. Is there an easy do-it-yourself way to straighten it out to a reasonable fashion? Thanks. Gene

I don't know that this is the correct place to ask this question but since y'all have been more than helpful on my other questions, I thought I would try here for this one. My husband's allergist has recommended that we get an air purifier. He doesn't care if its HEPA filter or the Ionization type and he doesn't have a recommendation. But my husband is allergic to dust mites, mold, all sorts of pollen and other airborn uglies! There are dozens of different types and brands. I've checked consumer reports and they don't list the one that my aunt has and swears by (she's a smoker and has one by Ecoquest and you really don't smell any cigarette smoke in her house) but that is sold via multilevel marketing and I've always been a little skiddish about that type of sales technique. So does anyone have any experience here with a brand of air purifier that they like? If this topic is not acceptible for posting please forgive me. Thanks, Sidney

My husband, the original absent-minded professor, continues his wail on how much time and effort it takes to be a homeowner, and small tasks seem like mountains for this man who is far more comfortable studying advanced mathematics than climbing a ladder. We live in Las Vegas, and overhead fans in every room are a necessity. We have cathedral ceilings, and must move the air around. The professor managed to install 2 new fans, but neither of them are balanced correctly. They both shiver and shake, and he's tried adjusting the blade weights to no avail. He just gives up. I can't do it, because I work from a wheelchair and can't get up that high. So I lie in bed making up jitterbug songs as the fan does it's dance routine. Any insider tips on how to get those blades balanced so the units don't bobble around so much? Yes, I know---grow legs and do it yourself: I'd love to, but it's sadly not an option at this time. <G if I could get up there, I could figure it out eventually through trial and error. Thanks in advance for any advice and direction I can give my husband. Debi Davis Las Vegas

I slightly bent the back wheel of my bicycle when I skidded and fell on a wet street. Is there an easy do-it-yourself way to straighten it out to a reasonable fashion? Thanks. Gene

what if the car port is not attached to the house????

I bought a house and the previous owner cemented the crawl space shut.I know that area needs air to keep down bugs. How can I open it up, also how do I measure a roof for new shingles? Thanks Audrey

HELP PLEASE. Anyone have advice: We have a house w/ a single carport. Post & Header + Rafters + Corrugated metal on top. Want to expand to a DOUBLE carport. City sez current code needs sheer wall panels @ corners. What can I do? A carport BY DESIGN has openness to it. Currently rafters have joist hangers off a lagbolted ledger board - other end rests on Post/header. NO "sides" at all- ends COMPLETELY open, and side opposite house only has 3 posts supporitng header. Totaly open on 3 sides (house is 4th). Comments / Ideas?

I have a Trane A/C system that is about a year old. Have tried to keep grass clippings and lint from plugging up the coils on the Condenser Unit. In spite of all the care that has been taken, a considerable amount of "STUFF" is now on the coils. With previous units, I would just hose down and brush and get rid of it, but the Trane units have an outside protective grill which prevents that. Has anyone out there gone to the trouble of cleaning their coils on a Trane Unit?? Norman

I am getting ready to tile my foyer and dining room, and now I am in the process of visiting local tile showrooms for further information on what to purchase/pricing, etc. Does anyone have any advice on what should I look for when going to these places? There seem to be so many! Also, should I look for a store that installs or am I better off doing it myself? Any information would be very much appreciated! Thank you!

Now that we have a running & legal car, I can get to the lumberyard and start buying boards every payday until I accumulate enough to build my 1st set of book shelves--nothing fancy as I will paint & decorate to match our theme of an Egyptian tomb (inspired by the slanted attic walls). I plan on using 1x10s except on maybe one section where I will use 1x12s to accomodate oversize volumes. Most of these will be going along the vertical sections of our attic library (maybe 4ft high) with 2 or 3 shelves and divided in approximately 3ft sections. I plan on assembling with wood screws (3- 4 per shelf as they will be loaded), but not sure how long they screws should be. I plan to brace the verticals to the floor, but should also probably brace to the studs too--should I use small L brackets or what? They don't have to be pretty as they will be hidden by books or kick plate. I will be cutting the tops of the vertical supports at an angle to match the wall and thought they should be supported too, but L brackets won't work here as they'd be visible--would a long wood screw and inch or two from the end up into the ceiling stud (?) be sufficient? I do plan on drilling pilot holes for all screws, if that makes any difference. Also at the end of the room I plan on taking the shelves up as high as the width of the wall is usable (maybe 7ft)--should I do anything different for this section? Thanks, Marci (who is ever so glad she found this list & wishes she'd found it a long time ago)

Is there anyone here familiar with fire restoration/cleanup? My house we damage quite a bit by fire and I am hiring out for some of the work now while I am waiting on the contractor to start. I've had all of the drywall removed and was considering hiring someone to do a complete clean up (soot, insulation, dirt, nails, etc). However, I want to know what is involved in this type of clean up first. What kind of equipment is involved? Is there any water used for steam cleaning or something?

We bought a house which was built in 1954. It has that wonderful green slate siding. While i am not concerned at this point about asbestos since it is in excellent condition, I was wondering what process to take to paint it. It is far to expensive to remove and from I am told, more dangerous to remove with it being in great shape. Anyone had to dea with this? Thanks! Katie

I have purchased a new doorbell for our house (i didn't like the ugly plastic box of the old one) Anyway, it says on the box and the salesperson said that it uses a 16 volt transformer. I found a transformer in my basement, but can't read what voltage it is because of the positioning of how it was installed. Is there usually only 1 transformer per house? What would happen if I install the doorbell without checking the voltage? would it just not work, or could it be a fire hazard (don't want the house to burn down over a doorbell) Sherri

I'm wondering if anybody has experience with the poly roller's you fill with water or sand and tow behind the mower? Are they better than the concrete drums, besides being lighter when they're empty of course? Any tips on the name brands? Thanks Patrick

I just returned from an auction where I purchased roughcut cedar 2x6's to use as base boards in my home. I know this sounds big but there is a very good reason for using 2x's, namely a 1" gap between my hardwood floors and the walls. My question is what should I use to seal them? I want something clear so that the natural color shows, but am not sure if sap will seep from this wood. I have had some outdoor cedar furniture that seeped sap, and I am concerned that once I get this in it may do the same. I am planning on using screws to attach this, and fill the holes with wood filler, unless there is a better way to go about this. Thanks in advance for any info on this topic. You guys and gals are the best as far as I am concerned. Laura in OK