Do it yourself

Hi, Thanks for the help with advice on my attic project! All the wiring for the attic project is done: bathroom fan, whole house fan, attic fan, closet light for my dad, two flourescent lights w/ switch for the attic, and a new GFCI outlet in the bathroom. And then a set of pull down stairs. All that remains is the trim around the stairs & painting them (and patching up a 2" diam. mistake hole in the ceiling next to the stairs) and the floor! We had an electrician come in in the middle of the project to inspect things. A couple things that I had failed to do was to put the splices into metal boxes instead of just wrapping them in electrical tape (I blame the how-to book, it didn't mention additional wiring to existing circuits, assuming that you were installing everything from the beginning of construction before the drywall was even up), and I didn't twist the wires tightly together before putting the cap on. Now those things are fixed, so overall, it went without problem :-) It was interesting, I asked the electrician if I saved anything by going through the trouble of doing it myself, and he said that attic fans cost $400, whole house fans are $800, and then he didn't remember the company's price on a new light or outlets, but that would be still more. And all of this cost us $600 in materials, so a minimum of $600 savings! There was another silly mistake where I misunderstood the placement of the switch, for example, but now I'm feeling more confident in it. Next project: a couple 220V lines in the basement, having the electrician install the breaker for me, but I'll run the lines. Btw, something that I just was wondering about-- if you were to accidentally cut into a live wire, you wouldn't get electrocuted, would you? You have a set of wire cutters, and it will cut nearly simultaneously through the white and black, thus connecting them. But the path of least resistance, the electricity will just flow through that 1/2" of cutter blade connecting them, no reason to travel several feet to go through your body and back, is there? And as long as you do turn off the circuit every time you work on a switch or an outlet or splice into a wire, there's no danger at all? Say that you did do work on a live outlet, what situation could kill you? The electrician had a look at the GFCI outlet and the double switch controlling the bathroom fan, and had to make a couple changes, leaving the electricity on so that he could test it there without running to the basement every couple minutes. He shocked himself 3 times in the process, and didn't seem the worse for wear. Each time it made his hand jerk backward, and while it didn't look fun, it seemed a very passing pain. I'm not sure, though, if each time he was working on one part with the pliers and touched another wire with his hand? If so, then if one used both hands in the work and the electricity passed from one hand to the other, is that when it's dangerous, through the heart? Apart from deliberately gripping a wire, is there ever a situation where you could find the electricity stimulating your hand to close on the wire and have electricity continuously pass through you...? Is electrocution not the real safety issue, but rather sparking and fires; but so long as I have everything in boxes and wired tightly, that's not a problem either..? thanks again for the help! -Bernard

If I got sent somewhere away from my tools, got told to assemble a tool collection, and someone else was paying for it, here's what I'd get: Common Core Tools: These tools are pretty basic, and everyone needs them. Cordless drill Circular saw Saber saw Japanese handsaw Framing hammer Rubber hammer Tack hammer Three pound sledgehammer Block plane Set of screwdrivers Set of combination wrenches Socket set Set of chisels Set of screwdrivers Pipe wrench Mill bastard file Carpenter's square Random-orbit sander Speed square 24-inch level Nail set Tape measure Calculator Chalk line Ladder With these tools you can do pretty much any home-repair task. Add-ons (these lists are cumulative): Basic woodworking: I would add a table saw, a router and router table, maybe a drill press. With those things you can make most anything. Intermediate to advanced woodworking: Trade in your table saw for a bigger one. Get a 3-1/2 horsepower router and leave that in your router table; with it there, you can use the small router handheld. Add a surface planer and a jointer to clean up the edges of boards, and to make boards thinner. Add a bandsaw for curves and resawing. Also add a compound miter saw. Cabinetmaking: A cabinetmaker handles a LOT of sheet goods; either a massive table saw or a panel saw is called for. Woodturning: If you turn wood, you need: A lathe--get a big one--and a set of turning chisels A table saw and a planer A bandsaw comes in handy for preshaping bowl blanks A pair of calipers I like having a hydraulic press to help in gluing up bowl blanks. A mitersaw is good to have if you get into segmented turning. A bench grinder with one white wheel and one pink, preferably the Baldor slow-speed grinder, or a Tormek water grinder Some turners like to cut bowl blanks out of tree trunks, and if you go this way you must have a chain saw This is the most expensive list--there are $6000 lathes. -- --jmowreader

although you didn't say it, I assume it is a whole house unit. By fan I think you mean the one in the ducts of your house. Okak ,,so you have to check on the unit that sits outside your house, because thats where the refrigerant is pumped from. If you turn on your unit to a/c,,and have the thermostat set to its lowest,,,,the compressor and fan on the outside unit should be running. IF its not, the first place to go is to check the switches and circuit breakers out there to see if they are o.k. There is probably also some plug type fuses out there. You need to check those out too. Alot of times thats all it is.(also check the breakers inside of the house) If the thing is running o.k.and still no cooling then you might have a leak. Theres other things there too but you wouldn't know what i'm talking about and then you need the service guy.

We have a great deal of weeds and brush to clear along our 1/4 mile driveway. Anyone have any recommendations for clearing this periodically? A weed wacker type product would probably not cut through the tough and tall sunflowers that grow in abundance along the road. Ray

Note: forwarded message attached. James Leonard Wolcott

Our ac seems to have gone out yesterday amidst 100 + degree weather. Air is still blowing but it is no longer cold. The unit is only about 2.5 years old. HVAC guys are a week out on repairs. Thanks for any help on where to check. Paul

Note: forwarded message attached. James Leonard Wolcott

BlankWe inherited a nice redwood picnic set that is about 20 years old. It is in good shape but the finish has some wear on it and we need to spruce it up a bit. I am completely at a loss when it comes to staining things. What kind of stain should we use and how do we go about using it? Any recommendation about particular brands? Do we need to do any sanding, or can we just apply it over the old stain? And how long will it be before we can sit on the chairs again? :) Thank you so much! Ann

I am a new home owner and slowly but surely getting kind of handy. I am doing alot of things for the first time but seem to be pulling it off and doing it right the first time. The roof has 2 layers and the shingles are starting to curl. No leaks yet, but would like to replace it before it does leak. My wife and mother-in-law keep giving me the, "It can't be that hard, just pull old roof off, put new paper down then cover with shingles". They may be right, but the way I see it, if it was that easy everyone would do it and there would not be roofing companies. Can you all give this beginner do-it-yourselfer your thoughts?

In my previous post I said I installed 4 treated fence posts 3 weeks ago! 1 is warped and has to be replaced. I was told why it warped! Now this weekend I will replace that pole and install 3, 2x4s, and the fence paneling! My question is will having these poles braced control the warping? I believe my mistake was letting those poles just stand there with nothing on them for so long! I couldn't get to it till now! Also I am using treated 2x4s and fence panels! Thanks again for any help! I'm learning as I go here!

Note: forwarded message attached. James Leonard Wolcott

HELP! How do I repair a small leak in my shingle (asphalt) roof? Going into the attic @ the site of the leak is not an option, there's a cathedral ceiling there. I am broke, and need some advice. Thanks! Bett

I hope someone can help me with this! I am attempting to replace 10' of wooden privacy fence, including a gate in the middle! 2 weeks ago I set the 4 treated 4x4x8 poles! 2' in the ground and set with concrete! They set up great and were all-straight! Today I checked and the end pole is already warped! Now ill have to replace that one! What causes this? I thought treated wood wasn't supposed to do this? Now for the fence part! What size/type of wood do I get for the brace for the fence panels? By that I mean the wood that goes against the 4x4s to mount the fence panels on? And lastly, how do I compensate for the uneven ground where the gate will go? I have about 2'' high spot!

I am joining today in the hope that someone can help me make a step into diy world...i am a recently retired female who has always been interested in home projects, and consider my self somewhat of a techie...i now want to venture into small workwork projects...simple wooden repairs, bird house assembly. etc, and need some guidance in the purchase of a saw...i strolled thru home depot today and when i saw table, band, rotary, etc ...i got confused.. Can someone guide me here ??? My goal is a real tool that is capable of all of the above without many bell and whistles....so, what do i need to know, and where do i begin?????????????? Carole

Can anyone tell me the difference by looking at a water sharpening stone or an oil stone. Will it damage the stones if the are put in visa-a-versa And last question, will you see the "part" line with the true stone. FOZ Remember the POW/MIA , theres still Hope

Is anyone familiar with adding rigid foam insulation to the INSIDE of framed walls? I can only find things in dealing with BASEMENT walls, not framed walls. Thanks for any help. Randy

Good Morning, Has anyone refinished dark oak cabinets. They were installed 25 yrs ago, are in excellent shape other than being dark. I would like to strip them but not sure what products to use and if stain should be applied before the finish coat. I also have a built in microwave, oven & dishwasher that I need to hand sand around the frame so as not to damage appliances; will this make a difference in finishing the project? Looking forward to any advice given. Thanks, Candy

I am attempting to assemble a PVC Fence. Standard type, lattice top privacy fence sold at The Home Depot. The posts are already set into the ground and the concrete patio was poured around it. I am now at the point of installing the fence panels and gate. However the way the posts were layed out I will need to cut one of the panels. Does anyone have any experience cutting these types of fence panels? What kind of tools should be used to make a clean cut? Also, there seems to be a kind of plastic framing on the end of the latice portion of the fence. Anyway to cut these panels and arrange them so that they look "even"? Not sure if that last question made sense but its hard to explain. Anyone that installed one of these fences may know what I mean. Thanks.

Hello, I have a closet that is approximately 3'x18'. Its doors are 3 sliding mirrors, each about 6' in width. The mirrors are cracked and coming off their tracks and need to be replaced. What are some inexpensive ways of redoing this area? There are no dividers or studs or an intermediary devices in the closet right now. Thanks! Laura

Warning for all the DIYers......... Man 1mm from death by nailgun By Peter Law August 8, 2004 CARPENTER Wade Humphreys came within 1mm of death when he accidentally shot himself with a nailgun. The 38-year-old Perth man was holding the tool in his left hand as he tried to move a ladder when, to his horror, it shot a 7.5cm roofing nail into his chest. The projectile passed between his ribs, pierced his left lung and stopped 1mm from his heart. "I saw the gun land on my chest, it bounced back and then I saw the hole for the drive-pin so I knew that it had gone in," said the Kingsley father of three. "I fell to my knees and shouted `I've shot myself!'. I told my offsider: `I'm a gonner'. It hurt like nothing I've felt before. It was like someone had hit me in the chest and I found it really hard to breathe." The incident happened at a Canning Vale building site when Mr Humphreys was trying to shift a ladder while carrying the nailgun. He accidentally uncocked the safety switch on the heavy-duty roofing nailgun while the trigger was pressed. "My hand is pretty big and unfortunately the handle is quite small. In trying to get my hand in there and lift it, I pressed the trigger," he said. "It was cramped, I was thinking about going home, thinking about money, thinking about everything else but where that nailgun was." The burly carpenter, who stands about 188cm and weighs 100kg, said he endured the longest moments of his life as he waited for an ambulance to arrive. He was taken to Murdoch Hospital where X-rays revealed the nail had lodged in his chest, stopping precariously close to his heart. It took 1 1/2 hours for Fremantle Hospital cardiothoracic surgeon Sanjay Sharma to remove the nail. "It went between the ribs, pierced the lung and was up against the sack of the heart," Mr Sharma said. "The heart bleeds five litres of blood a minute and there are only five litres of blood in the body. So he would have been dead in about a minute if it had gone through the heart." Mr Humphreys was released from hospital three days later and returned to work this week ? but has not yet used the nailgun that nearly claimed his life. He said he is now known as the "Tinman" by his workmates and the nail takes pride of place on his bar at home. Thanks and Best regards, Raj Lele

Hi, everyone... Next on the big home improvement agenda is window replacements. I'm looking to get inserts (frames are square, so this is a good solution.) My problem is I'm so bewildered by the choices! I would rather have a wood-clad window, because I can't envision how white vinyl would look next to my original frames and sills, which I want to keep. But if anyone knows of a good vinyl insert window, I'd love to hear about it. The windows are all double-hung; my only big thing is that they be double-paned and tilt-in for cleaning (and yeah, I'd like an interior grill I can remove, not the "between the glass" grills.) I don't just care about how the window looks, but right now, I know what I want in that dept. I still have to look into the various glass types, how it's welded, the argon gas, etc. Any suggestions for what would be a good insert window at a good price? Thanks for any help. Debby

I just started filling holes in my moldings before sanding and priming them and was using spackle. My husband tells me that wood putty (I think that's what he called it) is better. Can you tell me which you prefer? Also, I'd love any tips. I just schmooshed the spackle on the first batch -- wasn't neat enough, and I realized this morning that it's going to be a bear to sand, but if I wipe it with a damp distowel it seems to come off easily (sigh). Like I said, ANY tips. cat hurried mom, sloppy worker <grimace ps: the good news is that a painter is coming in AFTER me - I'm just trying to save some $ by doing a bit of the prep work first.

In a message dated 8/6/2004 9:37:46 PM Central Standard Time, flamnembr@... writes: OK, so now that is out of the way-- between kids and cat, the antenna on my Emerson 'boombox' is bent beyond ability to pull in the radio without a constant low hum... can i replace the antenna??? You should be able to as I believe most are affixed by a screw. But you can do like I did when mine broke and just take a metal coat hanger and extend the antenna that way. Josh

Does anyone know anything at all about installing foam panels to interior studded walls. First of all I know its expensive so skip that if you will. My problem is that I don't know what is required as to the position of the vapor barrier. Does it need to be removed from the fiberglass batts and another added just prior to sheetrock? As polystyrene is flammable is there something that must be added as fire retardant? The method is to add 1x2 or 1x4 furring strips perpendicular to the studs with 3/4 panels in between the spaces, much like furring out a basement wall except the furring strips will be in a horizontal direction. This works well to reduce the area of solid wood from inside to outside. I have done this before and it works well both for insulating and for sound deadening, but this is a new addition and will need to pass the scrutiny of our beloved local building inspector.

I'm not a professional, but I just redid my kitchen and den myself, stripping paper, patching and sanding walls where needed, and painting both rooms. I used Behr and loved it. I used their primer as well, and had it tinted by Home Depot to be the same color as the paint. The kitchen is a bright blue and it took a coat of primer and a coat of paint, in eggshell finish. The den is dark wine and it took a coat of primer and two coats of paint (flat). I'm very very pleased with the job. I used to believe in Porter Paint, but when I hired a professional a few years ago to do my entrance hall, which is two story and too tall for me to deal with, he recommended Behr. I bought it for him and I've used it ever since. I don't know anything about spraying paint on inside. I know that's how my rooms were done when my house was built. I didn't care for it because I could see thin spots, but perhaps they just didn't pay enough attention to what they were doing. But in the rooms I just painted, I was working on unpainted wallboard once I got the wallpaper off, and I just painted with a roller and trimmed with a brush. Sidney

Hey guys, we had a hard rain last night. Durring the rain I got water in the windows. It seemed to be coming from the window frams, like the water was on top and the water was just finding a way in. For example, in the kitchen it came only through a screw that mounts the track to the sliding glass door. Do we think I have a roof problem? We've only been in the house a few days. Thanks again and again and again. Steve

I am new to the group, but even newer to home repairs. I really need to replace the floors in my dining room/kitchen. Currently, it's a very inexpensive roll-type flooring, but I want to remove it and replace it with some nice adhesive tiles. This space is not very large, so I think I can probably do this in one day, but I need pointers on how to start and some DO NOT DO THIS tips. Thanks for your help.

Hi. We're going to be moving into our new house in a week and a half and I'm very worried about the stairs leading up to where two of our children will be. The house was originally one story. Some years ago the attic was finished and these stairs were installed. The stair treads are carpeted, of average height, but they're shallow. Going up them is no problem, but our don't fit on them properly going down. In order to get a decent footing with our toes, we have to turn sideways a little to fit our whole foot on the tread. I'm just so worried that one of our girls is going to come hurrying, just once, down those stairs and have an accident. We're considering a spiral staircase, but I'm not sure that will work because I believe the cellar stairs run below these stairs. We're also considering getting rid of one step and making each of the stairs higher, giving room to make them deeper, but that seems just as dangerous. Is there a very logical solution to this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks! Lynne

Hi, I know that when I did the middle-of-run wiring for a switch, instead of the hot and cold going to the contacts, both hot wires went to the contact screws, and the white wires were wired together. So for the whole house fan, it has a white and black wire leading from it. I have two wires going into it, one from the end-of-run timer, and the other will lead to the main line. Do I wire each hot wire to the black and white wires of the fan, and then each white wire together, like a switch? Or would I treat the fan different from a light switch, perhaps wiring all three black wires together and all three white wires together...? thanks! -Bernard

Have you considered instead going with ceramic tiles? Most bathrooms aren't terribly large so you'd be surprised just how inexpensive a project it could be (not as inexpensive as vinyl tile of course, but still). Installation of ceramic tiles is fairly easy -- apply the subfloor, then the adhesive, then the tiles with spacers, then the grout, then the sealer. You can rent a wet saw for cutting the tile or just get a tile cutter at Home Depot. The end result will be much nicer as well.

I can't speak to whether stick-on tile or sheet vinyl is easier to apply, since our handyman did ours. However, regarding price, and since you are doing a relatively small space, remember that you may be able to get a deal on sheet vinyl in the "remnants" section of your local flooring store. (It has been my experience that the smaller mom-n-pop stores are more likely to have a remnant section than the big box stores.) When we did our bathroom, I found a very nice leftover piece of high-grade sheet vinyl that was the perfect size for our small bathroom ... and it cost me 15 bucks. (Oh, plus tax.) No kidding! Ann

Hi there, I have a townhouse across the street from the beach in Florida...very humid climate. I painted the inside of my fence a year ago using some leftover white paint that I had (it was interior paint). Naturally, once the weather got to it it began to get mildewey (is that a word?!?). Anyways, I'm going to repaint it this weekend with mildew-resistant exterior paint, but I was wondering which is more mildew resistant... flat or gloss? It sort of seems to me that a gloss or semi-gloss might be more resistant to mildew because it would be less texture for the algea to stick to. Does the sheen of the paint at all affect mildew growth? Or is it just the additives they put in the paint? All suggestions are welcome. thanks! David

Hi, I am currently trying to install custom closet for my sons' room. My DH and I made the design ourself and bought the Completions collection from Closetmaid at Lowes. As I am tearing the exisiting shelf/rod out and there will be no doors, I took the board from the wall that kinda frames the closet. However, at the bottom now there is a gap in the baseboard where that frame was. I not sure of whether to replace the entire baseboard around the room, leave the gap there or just take out the closet baseboards and leave it bare. Any suggestions? Also, I have been filling in the nail holes in the walls, and just wanted to make sure that I am using the correct stuff. It is called plaster repair, but I have drywalls. Thanks for your help. --SAZ

Hello All, Once again, I pose a question. We just bought a house (end unit townhouse), in the master bedroom that is a small window (approx 18w x 36L). The window appears to be in good condition, i.e. all the glass is there, both panes, screens, no obvious seperation between the window and it's housing. But the previous owners framed in the window frame with 1x1's and used that second frame to hold a sheet of plactic. They also caulked in the 1x1's. It looks like an extremely elaborate version of "cover your windows with plactic to keep out cold air." I know this small window was near the head of their bed, but could it be possible then went to this much trouble because of cool air? The window doesn't look to be broken etc. Thanks for the help. Steve

Contractor is about to finish drywall, and we have elected to do the painting. I need advice with the following: 1. What kind & where can I get the best primer & paint for the $? 2. Can I spray on the primer? 3. I read it is a good idea to have the primer tinted, is this true? I know from previous posts that Behr seems to be a popular choice for paint. I have also used Kilz primer before with no problems. My budget/allowance is $3000 for paint and labor (i'm the laborer) for a 2000 sq. ft. ranch. Don't get me wrong though, I'd like to save some of that. A majority of the house will be the same color, we are only painting the kids' different than the rest. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Fred

I am new and also have an old farmhouse to redo. It is not that big and it has been added on to over the years. Looking at your pictures makes me feel much better. We don't have nearly that much work to do. I would really rather tear it down and build new but that isn't really an option. We are in SW Oregon. It was good to see the posts concerning the moderator :-)). I own/moderate two groups and have recently had to ban a few people. I got a few complaints and several thanks. It just made me feel better to hear it on someone else's list. Margaret

We were looking into getting a water softener. The guy came out and the bad news began! Seems the person that built our house did things a little different. Our water pipes come out of the pump house, going toward the house. At that point they disappeared! Literaly. Seems that the pipes we thought fed the house, only go to the washer and hot water heater. We went into the crawl space and we found no pipes anywhere! Seems that the pipes that feed the bathroom are buried and go off on their own to the bathroom. The back room sink is the same. It has it's own piping going to it. The kitchen sink is the same. Seems that all the things that need water are independent from everything else. When down under the house, we found no pipes at all. They just come up out of the ground and got to the individual places. Apparently once the feed line is in the crawl space, everything splits. And since it's all buried, we don't have a clue where it comes in, or where they go. The only thing we know for sure is that water is pumped out at the pump house and goes into the ground, in the underground room. OK, now comes the hard part?!?!?! How do we go about bypassing the whole house and make it right. One line coming in and branching from inside, like most homes. The dirt in the crawl space is like rock. Oh ya, when I say crawl space, I mean crawl space! There is only about two feet under the house. So when you crawl under the support beams, you only have about a foot and a half to move. I replaced all the drain pipe under the kitchen, and got hit with a lot of sparks, because there was no where to get out of the way. Short of tearing the house down and starting from scratch, what can be done with this mess? Any help, ideas or suggestions will be heavily prayed about. Thank you all. MC and Mrs. MC

I just rented a house to a tenant. It's a good house, solid, built in 1954. It was occupied by a family for 40+ years, and was in overall very good condition when I purchased it. But it sat vacant for over a year, then I spent a couple of months renovating it, so overall it was vacant for somewhere around 1-1/2 years. My tenant moved in yesterday. Overall she was quite pleased, and I am pleased with her as well. Today the Gas Company came and turned on the gas for the first time since it was last occupied. I was concerned about the hot water heater, as it's 10 years old (and remember, not to drive this point into the ground, but it hasn't been used in 1-1/2 years). All was good with the hot water heater when lit. I told my tenant to keep an eye on the hot water heater, and to let me know if it leaked. Six hours later, I get a call from the tenant...there's water in the basement. "Where?", I ask. "Not by the hot water heater", I'm told. "It's in the corner adjacent to the hot water heater, but the hot water heater itself is not leaking." This call coincided with the skies opening in Atlanta, and a deluge of rain. I know the basement gets water in it when it rains, so I assumed it was the rain. I call her back an hour later. "It hasn't rained here," she says. "Not at all?" I ask. "Nope, but it's getting ready to." So I get in my car and drive to the house. A huge rain cloud has just passed, and probably two inches of rain has just fallen at the rental house. So, if you are still with this fascinating tale at this point, this is what I found: 1) Hot water heater leaking at the drain spigot. Very slow drip--drip--drip. 2) FINALLY found how water comes into the basement...mortar is missing at least six feet underground between the concrete blocks, round holes that I would think were termite prevention (Sentricon) holes, but probably not because they are so far underground. These holes could have been a faucet themselves, water was gushing out accordingly. 3) Ground (six feet up) of these holes is heavily planted with large bushes. The ground itself was relatively dry. To make a long story longer, does anyone have any idea if I need to replace the hot water heater...or just make sure the drain spigot is tightly closed? Can I fill these holes in the basement to prevent water from coming in? If so, what do I fill them with? Where does this water come from that gushes through the holes? I've got my own ideas about these questions, but I respect this group's opinions, and thought I would run it by you all. Thanks! --Katie Atlanta, GA katie@...

Sorry. But a minute after posting the first, overly-long question I realized partly where I'm confused. The GFCI does indeed protect everything in a series, and then if you have a light that you want protected, then you can wire that in paralell off of the series. Everything is in parallel, except for the beginning or end of the circuit? So, now that I understand this (I think), how do I find the beginning and end of the circuit, where it is in parallel that I can wire in the outlet to protect the entire bathroom, master's bedroom, and even some of the kitchen? I'm getting the hang of looking at a localized wire and stealing power from it, but looking at the big picture, I'm not sure how to find the beginning of the circuit. Or, is it not worth it, and I should just put it in series with the fan alone, to protect the fan, and to only work when the fan is turned on, since I don't really need the outlet for plugging things in anyway? To wire in series, I would have just one wire coming from the outlet, and then I'd splice it into the two ends of the cut wire, to have three white wires under a cap, three black, and three grounds? And the load side of the outlet would lead to the switch, and the switch to the fan, and the line side of the outlet go to the cut wire? But it still remains, is it not hard to find where the entire circuit begins and protect everything? thanks! -Bernard

Hi, This project is taking longer than expected... but I'm ready to install the GFCI outlet. I know that I need to make sure that the fan is after the load side, because everything before the line side is not protected by it. So, to make sure that I understand this... I have the wire from the fan go to the switch. Another wire comes out from the switch. Black wires in the two screws, white wires togther, both grounds under the same green screws. Then, with the circuit off, I cut into a wire that leads to an outlet, or at least, not a switch to something else. I have two wires coming from my fan switch: one goes to one end of the now-cut wire, the other goes to the other end of the now-cut wire. I also take a third short segment of wire, and wire that from one of the clipped wires to the other. Thus there will be two sets 3 ground wires under one cap each, two sets of three white wires under one cap, and two sets of three black wires under one cap. The fan will then be in parallel wiring, so that the outlet will still work even when the fan is off (I didn't put in that third short wire segment when wiring in the outlet for two shop lights in the attic, and now that is the unfortunate case with my bedroom outlet, the attic lights must be on for it to work :-) ) I understand that there's a simpler way to do this with 4-wire cord, but I already have the 3-wire stuff, and I think I have the concept of this down, so I'll do it this way. I'm sorry if this is somewhat monotonous, to outline step by step basic wiring, but it is helping me to understand what I'm doing, being new to this. Up until this point is where I understand it, I think, unless I've got something wrong, and then please point it out. Just to wire something in. But now I need to slip in the outlet somwhere such that it protects the fan, and there's where I get confused. Normally for an outlet in the middle of a circuit I'd have one wire go to it, one wire come from it, and splice it into the middle of any wire in the attic, again, provided that that wire does not lead to a switch? No third wire necessary, since the outlet is perpetually on, whereas the fan is linked to an on/off switch? So with the GFCI outlet, with it's line and load side, where does it go? I can't just splice it in anywhere, that much I've gathered. I read somewhere that it is actually not in parallel, but in series, that it protects things....? Is this why I'm troubled? But this cannot be right! If I put it in series, the fan must be on for the outlet to work. This actually isn't a problem, since I don't need the outlet except for the fan (and an experience, to learn how to wire GFCI), but I'm concerned that series wiring couldn't be true, because then you couldn't have a light that turns on and off, without turning on and off everything, if everything were in series..... -Bernard

Hi, I'll look a bit more closely, but I've noticed that most if not all of home depot's basic electrical products are made by leviton. Even the very old switch that I just replaced for my attic wiring project was made by leviton. Do they have a monopoly, or are there alternatives out there...? -Bernard

Can anyone recommend a stud finder that actually works? I'm not having any luck at all (with the studs in the WALL, of course). LOL! Lilly

I don't want to paint a linoleum floor, instead 12" stick tile on top of it, is what I'm asking about. Not only is the landlord pleased with my previous upgrades, but offered to reimburse me the price of the tiles. Any other feedback? Wendy "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." Herm Albright

I think most folks realize this, but moderating is not really a fun job. I moderate several groups and sometimes, after repeated violations, you get sick of repeating yourself -- and justifiably so. If a moderator says a thread is over, then that thread is over. Continuing to propagate the thread on the list after it has been concluded is not only bad netiquette but it is also a snub to the moderator who declared the thread ended -- a direct challenge to that moderator's authority and in public at that. As with any position of authority, that cannot go unanswered. In most cases, the moderator will end the user's access to the list -- and rightly so. These actions are seldom "dictatorial" or intended to reduce the "fun" of the list but rather to keep the list moving and maintain a measure of order -- both elements of a successful discussion group. So if a moderator gets a bit snippy from time to time, consider his/her side of the situation.

I just finished building a small 3 shelf bookcase. It's the first time I've built anything. I'm still a little leery of my circular saw and my cutting has to improve, but for my first effort, it looks pretty good!!! Thanks for listening--there's no one at my house but me and the dog and she's not impressed.

Note: forwarded message attached. James Leonard Wolcott

Hi Cindy, I'm going to try to use rit color remover, as others suggested. What suggestion do you have,it might be the answer? Thanks "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." Herm Albright

Gottcha, loud and clear.... I figured industrial types could lead me in the right direction and in fact you have. I am now a member. back to business... One big piece of linoleum is on the floor of an apartment I rent. It has no air pockets and lays down on all the edges & corners. and I hate it. I was thinking of putting down a good quality 12"stick tile after applying the roll on stuff for improved stickability. Is ther any really good reason I shouldn't do this? wood is whats underneath the linoleum. Or whats involved if I try to remove it .What do I have to worry about to remove it and lay new tile? "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." Herm Albright

My wife and I are having a discussion about the circulation of cool air from various air duct registers in our split level house. I have placed fans near or over certain registers to help suck the cool air through ducts in those rooms that I want to see get more cold air. My wife believes that this is silly, ineffective and just wastes electricity. I think it does help produce more air from those selected air ducts or registers. So, not agreeing, we each decided to do some research on the question. I said I would go to this board and get some thoughts from experts on the subject. She says that if this were effective, you'd see fans in other split level homes. I need your thoughts. The marriage will hold no matter if she's right or I'm right. :) Thanks. Gene Thiemann

After removing carpet in my study & LR, I dscovered that my 100+ year old hardwood floors are a bit chilly, but I like the look & am removing carpet from both bedrooms & possibly the bath. Someone suggested I insulate between the floor joists (easily accessible from the basement), but wasn't sure what to use. The guy at the big orange box was even more clueless than I, but I noticed something similar to a foam egg carton (just about as thin & complete with cone baffles) that were a couple feet wide and 4 ft long. I've forgotten the name now, but the box specifically spoke of cutting to trim to fit between joists. Is anybody familiar with the product I'm describing? It would certainly be easy to handle, if it would be appropriate for this use. If not, what do I use? Your help would be appreciated, as I'm trying not to freeze, but keep my heat bills down too. Thanks, Marci

I'm soaking medium blue linen curtains in 50% chlorox bleach, and 50% water-trying to get them to turn white, but it isn't working. Of course anything else a splash of bleach gets on ruins it totally, but the color of the curtains are still blue, and I've had them soaking in my kitchen sink now going on 10 minutes Any ideas? Thanks! "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." Herm Albright

Hi, Can anyone give advice to a novice on how to begin putting in a flagstone patio? Should I go to Lowes or Home Depot or some such place? What will I need? How much time should I plan for? This will take up approximately 200 suare feet. Any tips to avoid potential problems?

..in upmarket area of Phoenix, AZFrom ranch-style 1960s 2600 sq. ft. to ~4,200 sq. ft.Spanish/Mediterrean (( dare I say Tuscan villa?).I have " priced " thru' Remodel.net at ~126,000 ( low end) to$216,000 ( high end). Need honest estimate(s) from local---Phoenix, AZ.---contractor(s).Thanks for help.Chris.

I have a fiberglass bathroom tub with stains. It appears the previous owner used an abrasive cleaner which removed the protective coating and now we have stains. Is there a way to clean, recoat or re-line the tub? I would perfer not replacing.

can someone give me some advice on how to make the best tongue and groove. what bit is the best? and how do i actually do it. i have some barnwood i want to make a floor. thanks

Hello all. I am new to this group and I am having a problem with my bathroom sink. The sink seems to be leaking from the drain, underneath. When you run the water it pools up in the sink and slowly leaks down the pipe attached to the drain and down to the floor. Does this indicate that I have a clog as well as a leak? Any advice on how to repair this problem as I am a novice to home repair who knows nothing about plumbing. Thanks!

Man where where they when I was planning my shop? Probably could not use it since my shop has round walls. Oh Well! Ray (ok, call me can't shut up) Guys & Gals....I just gotta e-mail from www.grizzly.com (514 page catalog and its FREE).........But heres the reason of the note......They have a whole page they started on the net where you can "Build Your Own Shop".......Now its not autocad, all that aside its a slide (and theres alot to side), and drop of course its there tools (even a puppy and cat).....you can scale,zoom,rotate, blah, blah.....can't sleep at night, forget the sheep........build a new shop................lust look on the home page and you 'll find it There is no endorsement from me on any of this, just good clean fun! FOZ

Hi, I am currently in the middle of trying to remodel an old farmhouse, not an old charming one, just old. The foundation is pretty bad and is being replaced. The floors are layers of particle board, old 70s vinyl and bad carpet. The walls were covered with yellow and green wall paper. I have taken out a couple and stripped the old paper and repainted. The foundation was rotted up into the siding so I am missing a couple outer walls. I have pulled up enough old flooring to have found very old hardwood flooring. The bathroom is gone except for the outer walls. It is a real mess. Fortunately we have a 5th wheel trailer that I am living in. thanks for listening. Margaret L Wilson Oh, my friend, it's not what they take away from you that counts. It's what you do with what you have left. ~Hubert Humphrey

Can anyone tell me what a jump saw is? FOZ Remember the POW/MIA , theres still Hope

(ok, call me can't shut up) Guys & Gals....I just gotta e-mail from www.grizzly.com (514 page catalog and its FREE).........But heres the reason of the note......They have a whole page they started on the net where you can "Build Your Own Shop".......Now its not autocad, all that aside its a slide (and theres alot to side), and drop of course its there tools (even a puppy and cat).....you can scale,zoom,rotate, blah, blah.....can't sleep at night, forget the sheep........build a new shop................lust look on the home page and you 'll find it There is no endorsement from me on any of this, just good clean fun! FOZ Remember the POW/MIA , theres still Hope

Nope! As for the Just for Copper product -- I'm going to get the large size. It supposedly will do as many as 200 welds when used properly (I figure I'll use too much until I get proficient with it but even still...). That's a $20 unit so it's not bad. It's rated to 500psi -- more than enough for plumbing. I heard about it on HGTV's coverage of the 2004 National Hardware show out in Vegas. According to the company, they're working out the logistics to get the stuff into Home Depot. James

I am all for saving money and when I started researching the memory foam beds, I found someone who was actually making them and sending them in pieces via the USPS. Then I got my bright idea! I located a place that sells the memory foam in as big of pieces as you need. I decided to "make" my own bed. I am getting a latex foam base from them (king size). I will be topping it off with a 5" 5lbs. memory foam and then on top of that, another 3" 4.5 lbs. medium firm memory foam. I'll then enclose it with the mattress enclosures that various places on the net have. This bed is identical to the Tempurpedic in quality, specs, etc.-- perhaps even a bit better. Total cost for this is going to be about $600 (can get as low as $450 for king size, depending on the specs you want your bed). That's a fraction of the cost of the Tempurpedic beds and the other beds. The least expensive, best quality memory foam bed I found (as far as bang for your buck) was at Sam's Club. The price for the king was roughly $1200. Anyone else have any other ideas? Warmly, Brandi

I am wanting to simulate raised panels on my cabinet doors too. I found a neat idea while perusing the web. This lady put quarter round molding on her cabinet doors and it looked sooo great! What's everyone think of this? Warmly, Brandi i want to make a quick pantry door out of 3/4 mdf or solid 1x24x42 pine. is there some kind of router bit that can be used to kind of simulate a "raised panel" effect?

I had a temperpedic pillow that I believe I paid $90 for and I hated it. Contrary to advertisements, it did collapse and not hold its shape. My husband and I bought a "Sleep Number" bed in a queen size, pillow top with dual controls about two years ago and we LOVE IT. I would highly recommend checking into this one. Sidney

Just looking for advice. My wife and I are looking for a new bed and wanted feedback on the "memory foam" beds, i.e. Tempurpedic etc. They sound great, but it pays to ask... Thanks! STeve

I've been taking the easy way out on these, since my bride is never sure where she wants them established from year to year. I use an 8' x 24" length of heavy lattice and attach a 1 1/2 inch board across top and bottom using my crown stapler and 1 1/4 staples. I then tie a length of nylon line to the top board and attach it to the eve or beam at the top, making the line long enough to establish the desired top of the trellis. I then attach another loop of nylon line to the bottom board and staple, tie, or stake it at the bottom. The trellis will sway gently in a breeze and the plants seem to like the motion or at least have enough discretion not to complain where I can hear them. The one on the deck is going into its second year and the others are still in place as well. They are simple to install and easy to take down or move. Daale "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." Herm Albright 1876-1944, Author

Try a 2 part epoxie? ===== James L. Wolcott

Hi, all. I need help with a dilemma: I have a very cruddy-looking concrete slab/front porch. The top layer of concrete is gone in patches and you see the rocky material below. It was painted once upon a time and the paint is mostly worn off. What would be the cheapest and easiest way to improve the appearance. (To make the whole thing uglier still, my cat knocked over a half can of black enamel on it yesterday!) TIA, Suzanne

I whiddle Cains on the side. Everyonce in awhile I'll put a topper on the Cain .First time I used a stud (theaded ended lag bolt)) and monkey glue. Held up for a long time then it started to shake more than me. .........I am working on one now and I am to that point, can someone tell me thier ideas on attaching a flat que ball (plastic) on one side to a peice of hickory, and make it strong and leave no fastner seen. But its got to be strong...........any help I could sure use (didn''t like the way first one looked) FOZ Remember the POW/MIA , theres still Hope

What you should look for: 1. Blade size--7-1/4" is the standard today. There are some with blades as small as 5-1/2" (mostly cordless saws), one with a 10-inch blade and Makita makes one with a 16-5/16" blade. (This is a very specialized tool--it's used for cutting 6" and thicker lumber. And at $700, it's a bit out of almost anyone's price range.) 2. Power: the higher the amps, the better. My saw has a 13-amp motor. 3. Where's the dust go? All circular saws have some sort of dust port to send the sawdust away from the cut. Inexpensive saws have a dust port designed to send the sawdust onto the sawyer, apparently so everyone will know you've been working hard. Midrange saws have a dust port situated so the dust blows out beside the blade--at which point the wind off the blade catches it, throws it back onto the sawyer, and once again everyone knows you've been working real hard. Pro-grade saws come with a little pipe. You are supposed to take this pipe and point it away from the blade so that people will only know you've been working hard if the wind shifts. In reality, you get a dust bag for a belt sander, hose-clamp said bag to the little pipe, and never worry about dust again. 4. What's the saw made from? Pro-grade saws are all made from magnesium. Non-pro-grade saws are all made from plastic with aluminum baseplates. The all-metal saws are better than the hybrids; how much better depends on how many roofs you intend to drop the saw from. 5. Convenience features: Ryobi sells a saw with a laser guidance system. Bosch makes a corded saw with no attached cord; you just plug a heavy-duty extension cord into it and go. (Two advantages: you don't have to worry about the saw unplugging itself from the extension cord it will invariably be used with, and if you screw up and cut the cord in half extension cords are easier to get than weird Bosch cords that you have to tear the saw apart to change.) Porter-Cable has a toolless blade changing system--the bolt that holds the blade on has a stowable crank handle and there's a button on top to lock the motor. Push it and turn the crank; the blade will come off. 6. Left-blade or right-blade? Most saws have the blade on the right side of the unit. Porter-Cable, DeWalt and Skil all make saws that have it on the left. I think it's better for a right-hander to have the blade on the left; you don't have to lean over the saw to see where the blade is. -- --jmowreader

I'm looking for an alternative to perma-glaze to refinish a cast iron, pink, tub. I checked out perma-glaze from some previous posts, but they have no franchises in the Chicago area. Any alternatives would be greatly appreciated. Don

Trinith: I found a couple of questionable statements in the above discourse. I had thought that you measured most things, especially men "with" a knuckle. Secondly, is the understatement of an understatement a double understatement and therefore like a douple negative does that equal a positive? You've completely confused me now girl. Dale "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." Herm Albright 1876-1944, Author

I am getting ready to lay vinyl flooring on the steps going down the basement. I put down plywood subflooring. Should I put any kind of paper between the plywood and the vinyl? Is it better to cut the vinyl from the back or the front (the side that will be showing)? Thanks for any help you can give me on this! D.Benjamin

I am newer to "do-it-yourself" home improvement/projects. (we used to hire someone to do everything or buy things already built) Anyway, I find that I am in need of a circular saw. As always, prices range from $50 - $300 on power tools. What should I be looking for in a circular saw before I make my purchase? Thanks in advance for advice, Sherri

Can anyone tell me the approximate lifespan of pressure-treated Doug fir in a concrete footing? We are putting a shade arbor up behind our house, on the west side, and we are debating whether to put in the main posts the easy way or the expensive way. :) Our inclination is to just sink the foot of the posts in concrete, like doing a fence post. (BTW, if we do it that way, do we need to put some gravel beneath it for drainage? Or is it better to have the wood completely surrounded by concrete to defend from termites? We do have termites in this area, though not in our house, and the water table here is pretty high so the concrete is likely to remain damp for much of the year.) The other way to do it (that we are aware of) is to use something called Simpson plates (or something like that) that act as a bridge between the concrete and the wood up above (which would not actually be set into the concrete this way). We have been told that this is a superior approach to the problem, but we are doing ten posts, and to do it this way would add somewhere between $100 to $150 to the cost of the project. I guess that doesn't look like much but we are counting pennies these days! Anyway, this boils down to the question of whether the pressure- treated wood will rot out or get termites in just a few years if it is set down into the concrete, or will it last for 20+ years. If it is likely to rot out quickly, we will probably go for the Simpson plates, but if it will last for a good long time then we would like to go with the cheaper way of just setting the posts in concrete. If anyone has knowledge or opinions about these issues, we'd appreciate your input! (And of course my husband wants to start putting the posts in around noon tomorrow, so the sooner you are opinionated the better .... :) Thanks! Ann

I'd like to have a washer / dryer set up on my second floor. I already have a bathroom there. Can anyone tell me if this is a big project to have done? Special wiring, plumbibg etc? Thanks!

Unless someone has upgraded the breaker box I would seriously doubt it. Most GFCI breakers will have a yellow rest button along with the normal trip lever. I think so in a stacked combination where it fits into one box. Would most likely have to get it at an electrical supply. Have never used one and I do not know if it would work for this situation. Robert R

does anybody know how to fix creaky steps? somebody mentioned baby powder but there's carpeting on the steps. no matter where i step, how slowly i go, i still make the loudest racket going up and down the stairs. Thanks Lar

Hey Dwayne... Only thing I know about Harleys is what I see on the Discovery Channel <G Been thinking this through and may go with some washers instead of Loctite.... I have to back out the screw a half turn or so in order to get the reel to turn smoothly without binding, so instead of Loctite, I'm thinking about adding a washer or two in the hand crank to give me the clearence I need, and the ability to tighten the screw without it worrying about the reel binding. Thanks! Tom D vibrate ALOT............here the way I do it........red.....can be broke lose with a LITE force..........blue........it take alot of force, I use it mainly on motor parts. that just the way I do it .........hope it helps............one though, do you think they designed the set up to be like a nylon insert in a nut

We have some steps and a walkway that lead up to our front gate and the driveway is immediately to the side of it. Sometimes, the grass grows up in front of the steps -- should be no big deal since he always walks up the driveway anyway (that's where the mailbox is after all). Unh unh -- he actually left me a note asking me to cut him a path one time. Go figure.

I've just installed a solar cover reel on our above ground pool and would like to secure screws that hold the cranks to each end the reel. The screw is metal and the crank is plastic/resin... I just went through Loctites "wizard" and Assure 425 Surface Curing Threadlocker was their recommended product. I read the datasheet and couldn't figure out if it was a permanent bond or not. I do not want it permament. I want to be able to easily break the bond if necessary. I had read on some other lists I belong to about various types of Loctite; the "red" and "blue" varieties where one isn't permament.... So... - Which Loctite is the non-permanent? - Would you suggest another bonding agent for my application? Thanks! Tom D

I have carpet down right now, and I don't know what's underneath it, but my house is new construction (about 2 years old). Does anyone know what's usually underneath? Or does it vary by region? In looking at flooring to put down instead of carpet (which I hate b/c I have 5 pets), I happened to notice that the self-stick vinyl tiles appear to be much cheaper than hardwood, laminate, ceramic tiles, or even regualr vinyl tiles. Is this because it's not a great product? Is it because you have to lay down a different subfloor w/ these, but not with the others? Or is it really the bargain it appears to be? Thanks! Megs

Hi, What should I use for the attic's floor? I've heard advice to use 3/4" ply preferably, and possibly 1/2" ply if I want to be cheap. But I'm wondering, to be cheaper still, what about particle board? Someone left some rectangles of 1/2" coarse particle board, and I've been standing and kneeling on them throughout my work on the electricity and fan and stair installations. I haven't fallen through yet. So then 1/2" particle board would work just fine for a permanent floor? It is to be used exclusively for storage, and nothing especially heavy either. You can do no more than stoop at the highest point, so for most of the floor, you will be on all fours, distributing your weight better. I was also thinking that particle board will be smoother, having less splinters than ply, important when you are on your hands and knees all the time while up there. The beams are spaced 14" between them (I suppose this would be a little less than 16" spacing, if you count the width of the beam along with the space between as the spacing), not 24", which I've heard is the case in some homes. So perhaps I can get away with the above plan? Of all the materials for this project, 3/4" plywood would cost the most at $33/sheet X 12 sheets, so if I can do with cheaper... Then again, even a couple hundred more isn't outrageous in the long run, for an investment in home improvement, and if it should add more than $200 to the value of the home to have a real thick plywood floor instead of thinner particle board... thanks! -Bernard

you did the right thing, but you'ver got to be patient. remember also to open the windows so all that humidity can get outside. the more air movement the faster it will dry out,,but it will still take awhile.

a lot of these fans have a on/off thermostat attached to them so you only have to set the thing to turn on when the heat gets to so and so. its all automatic.

when putting on an addition to the side of the house, and the roof needs to be replaced as well as the siding on the whole house where do you start??? We have a metal roof, and will replace it with the same, the siding is that press crap and is falling apart and the house is not insulated. I figure they will put that insulating board under the new siding and once the new metal roof is on we will insulate the attic. Oh, that's another question--do we insulate the floor in the attic or the roof?? We also want to put in the duct work for central heat/air and figure that can just be put in the attic--it is huge the same size as the house with 12 ft to the roof, unfortunately our additional rooms can't be put there unless we reframe the whole downstairs. any advice is much appreciated--I need to get my sons out of the dining room and into bedrooms of their own!! suzie

You need to find out which breaker controls the circuit that the fan is installed on. After this is located in the box you need to buy a GFCI breaker of the same strength (15 amps, 30 amps) whatever it is and replace it. Shouldn't be too big a job.

I have started painting my ceiling which has no texture with a flat latex enamel. At one of the joints there is about a 6 to 8 inch line at the edge of the joint where I did not get it sanded smooth. Should I try to sand of the paint and primer and smooth the edge or should a use some joint compound to feather out the ridge and re prime and paint this area? I leaning towards feathering it out. Seems easier unless there is something I'm missing. I have one coat of paint on the ceiling and will put on a finish coat over the whole ceiling once this flaw is fixed. Rolling on a slight texture is not an option my wife wants smooth walls and ceilings. Robert R

Hi, I've just installed a bathroom fan but not yet wired it. The reason is the mold that grows on the ceiling, so I've positioned it directly over the cause of the mold, the shower. In the manual it said that this could be done so long as it was on a GFCI circuit. On looking this up, I found that it was something that would trip instead of short circuiting with water contact. Makes sense. I do not know if the circuit that I will be splicing into is GFCI or not, actually, I doubt that it would be. The other option, according to the text I found in a google search, was a GFCI outlet; even if the circuit as a whole is not GFCI protected. But this, too, is not an option for me, for I will be wiring it permanently, not plugging it into any outlets. Is there yet another option, some sort of GFCI protection to be installed in the middle of the wiring? I understand that there is a reset button if it should trip... so perhaps there is a GFCI switch? Because now that I think about it, were one to make something to go in the middle of the wiring, it would not be conveniently accessible. And while I'm not plugging it into any outlet, I will be installing a switch for it on the wall. Also, when splicing two wires together, do you use three of the small connectors, one for each matching pair of wires? I'm very new to electrical work, but I took some books out on it from the library, and this was one thing that they must have dubbed so basic as not to include. This makes sense, but before I start, I want to double check. All else seems fairly straightforward, I'm doing nothing complex. A new circuit would be nice, but would be far more trouble than installing everything in the middle of existing circuits, and the only things that are used upstairs are lights, and now, fans, so I shouldn't overload anything, I don't think. Maybe a weekly vacuuming. ...to double check also... I've mapped out the wires that I can see in the attic, and then corresponding ceiling lights, or outlets, or switches in the walls below. So, say, I first want to install an outlet in the attic for two shop lights to see what I'm doing through the rest of the project. Can cut the wire leading to an outlet in the bedroom below (turning off the fuse, of course) and simply install a second outlet in the middle, following what this book says on how to wire an outlet in place? Basically, use any wire at all, except for those coming from the overhead lights, because then I'd have funny things like the attic fan only being able to be turned on when my sister's bedroom light is on? Like I said, there should be little risk of overloading a circuit. The bathroom fan uses .6 amps, the whole house fan uses the most of anything at 5 amps, both shop lights in the attic together will use little more than 1 amp. The attic fan I think is probably something less than the whole house fan's 5 amps, and they're to be on different circuits. I know, I should hire an electrician, but I do so love that feeling of accomplishment and independence of doing something yourself with only advice and/or a manual. Or preferably, with no assistance whatsoever (when I can get away with such, and for a first wiring project, that would be quite stupid). thanks! -Bernard

Hi, For my first home improvement project, to get my feet wet, I'm installing a whole house fan. I already have purchased the fan, and then only later noticed the print where it says that you need 1008 sq. in. of venting area in the attic and 1000 sq. ft. of attic space! The fan isn't overly large: it's the smallest one home depot has, and it's the right size for the house's square footage, just not apparently for the 400 sq. ft. attic of the 100 sq. in. of ventilation we have. We have one vent in front and one vent in back, in the (eaves or gables, whichever it is called?). Each is 10" X 13", for in theory 260 sq. in. venting area, but there are slats in each vent, so it is likely much less. We can upgrade to home depot's largest vents: 22" (actually 16") octagonal vents, but according to the box, each has in fact just 50 sq. in. venting area, again, very probably because of the slats in the vent. So we would need 10 on each side of the house to achieve that 1000 sq. in. venting area! Of course you don't see houses with 10 large vents carpeting the front and 10 more in back. So was the manufacturer heavily exaggerating, and in upgrading to the larger octagonal vents we'll be fine? The concern being that if there is too little venting area, pressure will build in the attic and limit the fan's efficiency. Or is there another type of vent that we should additionally install, that does not go in the gable, to achieve that 1000 sq. in.? What about the fact that our attic is only 400 sq. ft. and not 1000 sq. ft.? Frankly, 1000 sq. ft. is fairly large, and in our house the roof is heavily slanted so our attic represents only 1/2 or less of footprint of the house, which is why our attic isn't as large as the house. Perhaps they meant cubic feet...? Because even though most attics do cover the entire house's footprint, there ARE very old, small houses, and there town houses, and other more vertical houses, that also have small attics; so surely their smallest model can't require 1000 sq. ft.? Sorry, I'm just frustrated... But before I go ahead and cut a 2 foot hole in the ceiling, or go back and return the fan to the store, I'd like your more expert advice. The company's phone line doesn't work, and I'm not always confident of the knowledgability of customer service anyway. Perhaps I'm making too much of these numbers, and can ignore them, go ahead as planned with our two vents, and it will work just fine. But I'd like your assurance before taking such a chance, with an expensive fan and the work of installing and wiring it, that it might not help to cool our house if it can't force air out of the attic. thanks! -Bernard

Hi everyone! Through the years the major appliances in the kitchen have been replaced, one by one. The present stove and dishwasher have black doors. The fridgerator has not been replaced, however. It is harvest gold. It no longer goes well in there. I am wondering how I can change the look so that it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. My husband suggested painting it but it has a textured door. Any suggestions? Linda

You can get it spray painted at an auto body type place. When I was a kid, in the mid 60's, we had our nice white refrigerator spray painted turquoise that way. However, I would think about how old that refrigerator is before I put any money into it. I would guess that if it's harvest gold it may be on its last leg, dating from the 70's, and using more electricity than a new one would. Just my thoughts on it, Sidney

Yes. -- --jmowreader

I'm glad to see that the East Coast is working on having programs to help us females how to work with the tools available out there. Are you going to have anything beginning on the West Coast - Los Angeles area. I'm very interested. K

Normally in my yard the grass balloons up where the leak is, kind of like a volcano lifting up the sod. The last time mine broke it was under the house and it took about a week to find. Mike

Well at least it is very old for this part of the country, which wasn't settled until the 1860's. The small dwelling was build around 1908 in what was then a thriving and growing part of the town, and as with most old houses it has been badly used, abused. and neglected. The foundation on the west side has settled nearly 4 inches with respect to the east side, but it speaks well for the builders in that the house is not twisted, just sitting on a slope. The house was purchased for about the value of the lot it sits on and I have been contracted to restore it in preparation for the owners impending retirement in about 15 years, and it might just take that long. The owner makes week long visits about 5 times a year and kind of camps out, so certain facilities have to be kept in working order, like the bathroom for instance. Renovation has begun by removing all the trim in the kitchen and dining room and the entire upstairs, this will be followed by removing all the plaster, then the lath, wiring rough in, and the installation of a new bath on the second floor. Once the new bath is in usable order the old bath and add on back porch will be removed so that jacking and leveling of the house can begin. Of course the entire house will be insulated, vapor barrier, new plumbing and wiring, and once leveled a new bath and laundry will be added back to the lower floor along with a period porch to match the rest of the original home. It is the owners intent to strip and restore all the trim, as well as acquiring the trim from an adjacent home that will also under go renovation in the near future, but the owner of that house does not want to use the original trim which happens to be the same. The whole project would be a serious contractors worse nightmare, but since I have been given an unlimited time schedule it is just what is needed to keep me busy on those cold and rainy days when nothing else can be done. The previous owner had installed a new forced air furnace and duct work so I will have heat during the winter. The first old building I restored was built as a tea warehouse in 1749 and thirty plus years after its initial restoration it is still in use for its intended purpose, and the work done remains as completed and envisioned, that renovation project halted urban renewal and resulted in providing the spark which resulted in the general preservation and renovation of the entire down town area of Newburyport, Massachusetts. I doubt this project will have any such dramatic results, but it does promise to be a fun challenge. I'll try to remember to take my camera along on my next installment so that some of the before photos can be recorded. Dale The only difference between a Craftsman and a Dunlop is quality.

ok folks tried to get my irigation system going tonight and where the black pipe meets the flaired fitting thing and is suposed to be clamped down it leaks. i hit the pipe with the torch before clamping it down with the hose clamp and it still leaks. also i think i have a burst hose underground in one of my lines. how do i find the broken hose? thanks :-)

hello i have a vent in the kitchen and it some thing i have never seen before can someone please tell me what this vent is how does it work and how can i replace it with something modern. the home was built in 1948 if that can help you in any way. picytures of the vent can be found in the PHOTO SECTION of this group. help please thank you for any help hiram

hiram vent is what the picture are under

anyone have any experience changing from a private septic system to a regular city sewer system. i'm looking for a ballpark figure as far as costs, and any other input,advice,etc.thanks

We had a large mouse in our garage a number of years back. I was storing bagged sunflower seed in the garage and I have a tendency to leave the garage door open when I'm puttering around in the yard , and I guess the mouse just couldn't resist. The mouse wasn't real secretive, and I saw it a number of times. I put out a spring trap, against my better instincts, and put sunflower seeds on it. The next morning when I went to the garage, the trap was still set, the seeds were missing, and the mouse was sitting there looking at me as if it was waiting for me to feed it again! I just didn't have the heart to set the trap again, so I followed the advice of a naturalist friend of mine, who advised a live trap. It is basically a metal box with a tunnel in it. The tunnel is blocked by a flexible piece of metal. The mice can get in, but not out. So I set the trap down by the furnace, which seemed to be where the mouse had set up headquarters. The next morning, my son went down to investigate. I asked him if we'd caught the mouse and he replied "We caught 6 mice, Mom". Sure enough, my fat mouse was a mother with 5 tiny babies who had all followed her into the trap! We kept the trap around for the day so the kids could watch the mice and then released them in a nearby field. The moral to this story is that if the spring trap had worked, the babies would have died behind my furnace, causing a noxious smell and probably necessitating the dismantling of the furnace! So by using the humane trap I did myself a good turn too! Sue R

You're talking siding and roof sheathing; OSB's gone down into the $11/sheet range and Hardipanel's around $19. Use OSB as roof sheathing and Hardipanel as siding. -- --jmowreader

You can usually tell once the fan is down how the box is attached. You will most likely see screws going threw the top of the box and sometimes there are holes you can see threw. Usually if a box was able to hold a fan it will hold another one. I have mounted 52" Hunter Fans to ceiling boxes with no problems. If it makes you feel safer you can line the mounting plate up with the brace for the light box and run the wood screws provided with the fan threw the box into the brace. Just besure and drill a pilot hole. Robert R.

hello glad to be part of group that deal with do it yourselfers. well here is my problem i just purchased a home and it is a 1948 ranch. the home is in good condition but it is stuck in 1948. I am trying to identify a vent a fan i dont know what it is but here is a picture of it if some one can tell me what this item is please tell me. thank you in advance for any help hiram please look for the picture in in the photo section under hiram vent

Hi all! I work for a major pest control company and deal with these situations daily . Regarding the mice, you must get rid of the openings and access points, low and high, as was mentioned previously. A mouse can get in through a hole the size of a dime. This means hoses from the A/C compressor where they enter the foundation, foundation vents which are loose, or have loose, torn or missing screens, furnace closets upstairs which have openings in the floor down into the crawlspace, etc. Walk around your house and look everywhere. Take a family member or friend with you so that the two of you can talk about it while looking for holes. This really does help! D-Con will work if placed around the edge of the perimeter of the crawlspace. Mice tend to stay along the edges of walls and such, rather than walk across the middle of a room. If you use a snap trap with peanut butter, use a very small amount. People tend you over do it and use a great big spoonful. I have used the bucket of water before, and it does work sometimes. Now, regarding the fleas. I have used Advantage on my cats for about 8 years. Not one flea since. I squeeze it from the tube between their shoulder blades, so that they can't lick it off. I do use Raid Fumigator once a month in the garage where my one outdoor cat and my neighbor's cat sleep. It is a smoke instead of a vapor spray like the rest of the bombs, and gets into most every crack and crevice. It's also the only product I know of that is safe around gas appliances with pilot lights. If you already have fleas, you must use it once, then again in two weeks when the eggs begin hatching. VERY FEW products will kill the eggs. Follow the other writers instructions about vacuuming every day for about a week, and throw away the bag immediately! I have seen badly infested closets where the eggs hatched in the vacuum bag and they climbed out of the machine and onto the floor. I hope this helps. Write me if you have questions. Stuart

Go to your vet and get Advantage Flea killer. While you're there ask the vet for a flea spray (the brand I have used escapes me but its distributed by vets not by Target/WalMart etc.) She takes Advantage internally once a month. There's another brand as well but I can't recall it. Generally a vet will sell one or the other. Or you can buy it online at petmeds.com. Fleas can not only make her uncomfortable, but they can cause her to become ill and they're not much fun when they get on you either. And they'll just as soon bite a human as a dog. Sidney, major dog lover here

Regular vacuuming and treat your dog with a spot treatment like Frontline. To get at some of the ones that are alive at the moment, get a desk lamp and put it in the middle of the room, on the floor, over a bowl filled with water and a touch of dish soap. The fleas will jump at the light and fall into the bowl, be unable to get out, and drown. James

Hey Suzie -- not all cats are great mousers. :) We have 3 of our own and they only play with mice, and only if the mouse comes within reach (lazy bums!). My rat terrier/labrador mix dog on the other hand, now SHE'S a great hunter! James

I think I have mice in my attic. It also sounds like they are nibbling on stuff in the walls. How do I get rid of them and how do I keep them from coming back? We live in a semi-rural area with lots of trees and fields. Thanks in advance. Intisar

Hi All, I'm purchasing a home on 2.5 acres -- almost all grass with lots of trees. I'm wondering if you all have opinions / experience with zero turn mowers. I'm leaning towards a Toro -- but wonder if anyone can recommend other High Quality mowers that would be comparable? Any suggestions appreciated. Regards, HisRocker