Do it yourself

I have to agree with Trinity and Maribeth. My tools have come from Lowe's, Sears, and City Mill (local home improvement store). My husband didn't pick them out, and doesn't use, any of them. I don't consider any tool, a man's tool. And selling "women's tools" implies that there are 2 sets - one for men and one for women. Now a company that wants to create and sell tools for different ergonomics is one thing. Catering and selling those tools to one sex is another. Sure I take into consideration the size of a tool when I buy it - it I can't hold it, it's not going to be used. I took a quick look at the website, and the tools that they are selling look just like ones I can buy at any store that has tools. I can understand that you are looking at ways to make some money, and are trying to find someway to involve something you like to do. I can respect that. But I think that as evidenced by some of the posts (mine included), reception to the line isn't going to be huge. Maureen

In a message dated 6/15/2004 8:27:24 AM Central Daylight Time, flamnembr@... writes: Nicely put. I have to chime in here just a bit. It hits one of my buttons. As a woman who worked in what was at the time primarily a man's profession (practicing law as a trial lawyer) I never wanted to be chosen for a position, or hired for a case or anything else because I was a woman, or in spite of being a woman. I wanted to be picked just because I was the one who was qualified. I don't want to fill a particular quota. I didn't try to dress in somber gray suits like some of the few other women did, nor did I ask helpless and weak and try to flirt with the powers that be as some others did. I was just me. I refused to join the Lawyers Association for Women because I didn't feel that I needed a seperate Bar Association. Most of my women lawyer peers thought I was nuts. So how does this tie in with tools. I do think the little pink tool kits are cute and pink is my favorite color. But I've never bought one because I never thought they'd do the job. I don't need a tool made for me. I can learn to use the ones that are made for the world at large. That's sort of how the world works. There's a standard and the rest of us need to try to adapt to be able to take advantage of it. So no I don't want a tool party or pink tools. I just don't want to be talked down to when I go to the big box and ask to see a particular size bolt. Boy did this get philosophical! But its one of my buttons (sorry, fortunately I don't have many!) Sidney

Hello all...again..haha. I have a dehumidifier running in the basement, it collects 30 pints of water every 36 hours (day and a half). Not being familiar with wet basements, this seems like ALOT of water to be floating around in the air! I've been running it for a couple of weeks now and it is consistenly collecting the same quantity etc. Just curious...is this alot? Thanks, Steve

Carl, I'm afraid you are fighting a lossing battle. My daughter belongs to an online journal group - Xanga.com. Teenagers post all sorts of junk on there. Only benefit is I have figured out how to access my daughter's journal and most of her friends so I can keep taps on them. When I first learned of the group you better believe me I wrote the owner. All the "terms of membership" where being broken by these kids. I got no where in all my attempts. In the end I just warned other parents about the group. You do have to watch what your children are doing online but it doesn't always help. I did the parent control, my daughter figured out a way to get around that. In computer lab at her school most of the kids are visiting these sites. I have no clue where the teacher is but obviously not watching the kids. My daughter's friend only goes to her journal site at school or at the library because her mother watches her every move. I really think it boils down to parents watching what their children are doing online plus talking to your children. If they want to access a site they will do it either at your home, school or elsewhere. Informing other parents is important also. I did inform the school regarding this problem but that did not bring any results. I did leak the word out to other kids that the school does monitor the site, that helped a bit. The school really doesn't bother to look at the site although I gave them information on how to access some of the kids sites. Some of these kids are into drinking & drugs, bragging about it online. They talk about doing drugs at school and other things to disgraceful to even repeat. I applaud you on your efforts but don't get discouraged when you realize that your efforts didn't pay off. I don't remember if you ever stated the age of your child. You can try parent controls in addition to you watching what your child does online. Teenagers know how to get around parent controls. If nothing else go into the computer and look at the cookies saved, you'll be able to see what sites have been accessed. The next step, which I had to take with my daughter was jerk the computer out of her room and make it where she couldn't use mine. After a month without the internet she learned a lesson, hopefully it will stay with her. Good luck, Lisa

Hi... The basics are always welcome. Basic stuff like properly using and caring for tools, tool sharpening basics, shop safety, home safety, chemical safety, building basic benches and saw horses, storage ideas for stock, ventilation basics, lighting. You know, the basics; a very long list. Fixing a garage door, weather striping... Perhaps a few simple projects like installing a shelf, fixing a toilet or sink, basic electrical (and safety), painting basics, making picture frames, etc. In looking around my home office, I have an electrical cord running under a carpet. A very bad thing. What do people do that represents a hazard to themselves, children or pets? Lots of things. Perhaps you might address that sort of thing. Look around the home, shop, garage and garden. What projects do people want to take on? Those should be considered first. Building a nice workbench is not as useful for many people as a basic tutorial about fixing a common problem will be. Perhaps selecting garden tools, fixing lawn mowers, making a garden path, building a swing, basic roof repair, sprinkler repair. The list is very big. Perhaps start with some very basic tool helps and info. Without tools, nothing gets done. Caring for tools is good, because tools not cared for are not only unsafe to use, but costly, if you must replace them because you do not care for them. Then move on to a few basic home repairs, like patching drywall or fixing the washing machine. Simple electrical issues like a broken switch or bad socket can save people a fortune, and if approached properly, can be attempted by most people. Finally, always provide safety info. People do not always remember to shut off the power before they die in a horrible accident involving electricity. Then they do not care until they go to the 500,000,000 store celestial tool mall, and their cc is never accepted, or they are all tools for women : Bob

Thanks for the advice on the possible house...unless a miracle happens my settlement will not be big enough to get it and do everything else that has do be done. But when I am finally able to move I will have an inspector look before I make any final decisions. Laura in OK

I just posted about my kitchen cabinet problem; apparently it's not a problem that interests anyone I call! I've been trying for two months to get someone to come here and give me an estimate to redo this cabinet. Just today, I got the wife of one guy who actually called me back (their ad said, "we return phone calls.") When I explained what the problem was, she put me on hold. She then came back on to say "we don't do that work." After a few questions, turns out they aren't interested in such a little job. So apparently they return phone calls; they just don't do work that doesn't involve a few thousand $$$. I'm getting really desperate here, and at the end of my rope. Any ideas why these guys don't call back? Surely there is SOMEONE in NJ who does small jobs! Arrggghhh!

Hi, everyone... Okay, this is a little odd, but I can't believe i'm the only person who has ever had this problem! I have a space over my gas cooktop for installing a hood. The space in the center has a short cabinet, and it's flanked by two longer cabinets. I bought a microwave/exhaust hood to put in the space. The problem: the microwave is too low over the counter. The only way to install it is to shorten the center cabinet. the thing is that the center cabinet really doesn't seem to be an individual cabinet. There's a bottom on it that is nailed in place through the sides of the flanking cabinets. The sides of the center cabinet really are just the walls of the two flanking cabinets. My idea is that if I can somehow cut the nails that hold the bottom of the center cabinet in place, I can renail it (or other piece of wood) up higher, and thus have a shorter cabinet so my microwave/exhaust hood isn't hanging so low over the cooktop. Is there a way to cut the nails holding the bottom of the cabinet in place? There's a very tight fit between the edge of the cabinet bottom and the neighboring cabinet. I could possible wedge something VERY sharp in there to saw off the nails. The way the bottom of the cabinet is nailed into the sides of the neighboring cabinets would make it VERY difficult to drive the nails through (no leverage with a hammer.) Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Debby

I have a double bowl sink with a garburator which now has a dishwasher directly connected to it. They are immediately adjacent to each other. I have to relocate my sink and garburator two cabinets over and around the corner for better use of the kitchen. The drain line will be from the old existing location, so I will have to extend the sink drain about 90 inches (It has to turn around the outside corner of the corner cabinet, so 30" wide cabinet + 24" depth + 36" wide cabinet for a total of 90" of new run. I would like to have my dishwasher drain back into the garburator to maintain the existing drainage configuration, but that means I would have to extend my dishwasher drain (ie the rubber drain line) also 90 inches. Would it be better just to tap into the main sink drain line, which would be immediately adjacent to the dishwasher location, or only a few inches away? Also, I've tried to understand what this "air gap" and looping 30 above the floor is all about but I am still not too sure what it really is for. Is is essentiall venting for the dishwasher drain? Or is is to provide a proper P trap for the dishwasher?

I am a lefty but I am also a righty for a lot of things, as I had to learn to adapt. I have a big problem with manual can openers and therefore must use electric. As for tools...most are universal for either dominant hand.. screwdrivers, drills, hammers, knives, etc. The only thing I would say on the gender role is that it would be nice to have a drill that is narrower for the smaller handed, but if it was marketed as a "just for women" thing, I probably would not buy it on the basis of what was said earlier about losing power and the pink casing. I am 5'2" and have unusually small hands, hubby is 6'1" and his hands aren't much bigger than mine (which is quite funny when you think about it...although his feet are size 12.). I am picturing a line of tools made for women that are very similar to the line of tools that Home Depot makes for kids. My oldest son has a bunch of these as well as their "real" tool counterparts...they are sturdy but I wouldn't want to have to rely on the kid tools for any major home improvement. Kati A female lefty in Iowa....don't you dare call me a southpaw!

The rear of my house is above an unfinished basement with a perimeter drain system (including a sump pump). The original front of the house sits over crawl space that is very wet (fiberglass insulation between the floor joists is wet, too). Does anyone have any tips on fixing this problem? Will I need to dig a drain system with a sump pump in the crawl space? The grading outside is pretty good with the gutter downspouts running at 4 feet from the house.

I want tools that can do the job I need to do. I really think I can find those now. I can't imagine how "women's" tools would be different---unless the price was higher. Be gentle with YourSelf Sue

Nothing wrong with diversity!!! Joe In a message dated 6/15/2004 11:37:27 AM Central Standard Time, flamnembr@... writes: this list has some of those-- but also some of us are hacks <grin are learning due to becoming single parents, some are stay-at-home moms... some are experienced DIYers, others have never tackled a project...

Would any of you be interested in a company that made special tools for women? Would you like for a demonstrater to come to your home and demo them like the way a tupperware lady demos her stuff? I am asking because I want to know if women really want this type of product.

Tomorrow I am meeting with the attorney's to try to settle a lawsuit...IF my settlement is big enough we are getting out of the "Nightmare on Elm St, Custer City Series". I know we just got it but we have decided unless we have to we are not going to put the time and money into it and still just have a $7000.00 house. We have found a place that is newer, in much better shape, and has2.5 acres of land with a HUGE shop. The person selling it is a trusted friend but after what happened last time I bought from a friend I need some advice. First we don't want to pay for a home inspection so I was wondering what we need to look at ourselves. From what I have seen on the outside the roof is good, and the siding is in great shape. I know we need to go under it but what do we look for exactly? There are no leaks in the water as it is on right now. Secondly how do I go about offering a price that is reasonable for both parties? They had it appraised for $28k, and so far have only had one offer for 14k. I was hoping to get it for 20k but would like to get it for less, would starting at 18k be ok? I know I need the exact dimensions of the house but I don't have them right now here is what I know: Single story, 3 bedroom, 2 bath, the attic has been finished for storage and could be turned into another room, central heat and air, large closets, and carpeting throughout. The carpet in the bedrooms is older and would need replaced asap, but the public areas were carpetted in the last few years with white! Needless to say with 2 kids, 2 dogs, a cat, and husband that works in the oilfield it will have to go. This is all I know right now, after I find out how much I will have to spend I will either go on a walk through myself or forget about it. Laura in OK p.s. we already have a buyer lined up for our "Nightmare" house...yes they know what condition the house is in but they want to own instead of rent.

Jim, Maybe you could market your invention! LOL My wife uses the old Girl Scout trick of stuffing an empty milk carton with lint from the dryer. Starts fast and burns hot. Wonder if that would work? I have never tried it on mesquite. Ray

Well, we don't grow too many of these down here in TN but I googled it and found that they can grow from 60-90 feet tall, with branches spreading out 15 feet. :-) You might want to try Google just to read some websites on it. I would say to plant it at the same level of dirt that its at now. You don't want to smother it by planting it too deep on the trunk. Sidney

ok folks ive got 2 canadian spruces growing in half pickle barrels well theyve grown too big for the barrels and they need to be planted the trees are about 3' tall. how big and deep should i dig the holes? and how big do these things grow when there free to grow? thanks :-)

Today I'm in charge of making dinner because my wife is working and I am off. I was left with two chicken thighs. Hmm...grilling them would be good. And I have a half-bag of kiln-dried mesquite chunks in the shed. Okay, so you know the drill: wash the grill, season the chicken, light a fire, throw it on and go away for a while. All was well until I got to the "light a fire" part. I did the old Boy Scout trick of making little shavings, lighting those and building up a bigger fire as I went along. No good. I went to the trick the old Indian guy taught me about pitch pine. There was still a nice piece of pitch pine in my Army rucksack; I cut off a piece and used it as a firestarter. No good. I even poured mineral spirits over the mesquite, waited two minutes for it to soak in, and lit that. Still no good. I have now come to the conclusion that mesquite is completely fireproof. At this point I am yelling obscenities in foreign languages. Oh yeah...I have a full cylinder of acetylene and about half a cylinder of oxygen in the toolroom. Maybe that will work. Out comes the welder. I put on a number-one tip, put on my protective gear, set my acetylene pressure to 1PSI and oxygen to 1PSI, and lit the torch. A few minutes of heating this absolutely unburnable wood with a 6000-degree flame convinced it of the error of its way and now I'm making chicken. Most people who grill with mesquite soak it in water, or Jack Daniel's, and throw it on the coals. I'm starting to understand why. -- --jmowreader

We are starting the planning for a new screened porch (screening in a 16 x 12 portion of our 16 x 24 back deck as it is just so hot and buggy in SC we can't use our deck much of the time in the summer). We have two outside cats. Do you recommend charcoal aluminum screening or would the pet screen which is polymaterial be better? Anyone here with experience/recommendations? Also, would it be better to close in the gable or screen it also (planning to put a fan inside)? Any screen-porch advice would be appreciated! Susan

Why are you face nailing it, if you're using Hardiplank? James Hardie says there are very few instances when face nailing is justified--super high wind areas like Kansas and Florida. In my area, which gets hit with really huge hurricanes, they don't recommend face nailing it because the peak winds aren't high enough. -- --jmowreader

Okay, I'll play... Signs Your Amish Teen's In Trouble 10. Sometimes stays in bed till after 6 am. 9. In his sock drawer, you find pictures of women without bonnets. 8. Shows up at barn raisings in full "Kiss" makeup. 7. When you criticize him, he yells, "Thou sucketh!" 6. His name is Jebediah, but he goes by "Jeb Daddy." 5. Defiantly says, "If I had a radio, I'd listen to disco!." 4. You come upon his secret stash of colorful socks. 3. Uses slang expression: "Talk to the hand, cause the beard ain't listening." 2. Was recently pulled over for "driving under the influence of cottage cheese." 1. He's wearing his big black hat backwards. --jmowreader

My roommate's house has a pigeon problem that she neglected for years until I moved in. I recently climbed up into the overhang and removed the nest and hosed out the remains as best I could. Lethal harrassment with a bb gun isn't real effective as they are often just outside the lethal range and fly off when they hear the gun cock. Can't use a shotgun for obvious reasons. The bird pest control products I've looked at are too expensive for her budget. I'm looking for home-brewed, inexpensive but effective remedys, lethal or otherwise, to finally ridding them or deterring them from returning. This is a high-pressure bird problem. We're probably talking about at least a few generations of pigeons. Thanks in advance.

We have added another page to our web site! Under 'CONSTRUCTION' click on the 'POURING FLOOR' BUTTON. It illustrates the concrete interior pour. (and all the trouble we had) Ray & Beth www.mountainviewdome.com

Hello - We are graduate students working on a school project and would be very grateful for the input of some Do-It-Yourself experts. Could you please take a couple of minutes to answer the following questions? Any information that you can provide would be much appreciated. Thank you very much. - Stacey, Alex and Amy (Boston University) 1. If you use websites to research or buy home improvement supplies, what do you like or dislike about the websites? 2. If you use websites to research home improvement supplies but then go to the store to buy the products, why don't you buy the products online? 3. What would you like to change about your in-store or online home improvement supply shopping experience to make it better? 5. If you are familiar with Sutherlands Lumber & Home Improvement Centers, what do you like or dislike about Sutherlands as compared to Home Depot? As compared to Lowe's?

Kudos to you Shaun. Best of luck and happy flooring! -Amy

Anyone know how to remove mineral stains from clear glass shower doors? tried all the commercial products, even vinegar (mild acid) didnt work. Thinking a stronger acid will work but will it etch the doors? Hate to throw away good glass but the wife hates it (being a man I dont care that much :-) Thanks! -Han

We have cedar roof, not sure if it has been protected at all since it was built in 1991, (we bought house 2 yrs ago) looks pretty dried out but clean and no leaks. Wondering about the best protectant to spray on it? Also, is it ok to walk on the roof? I guess thats the only way to do apply protectant (duh), with spiked shoe attachments right? Anybody ever walk on cedar roof with spikes? What if some shakes let loose? it looks like they are only stapled on and its pretty steep in places...should i double my life insurance :-)?

Hi, we are replacing the surface of the deck with "Cedar One", a light colored cedar. I read somewhere you shoud wait 9 months before staining/protecting new wood to give it time to dry out, then it will accept stain better. Kinda makes sense, anybody else heard of this? I realise the milling glaze needs to be removed as well. After all the work building the deck I am EAGER to wait! LOL Also, what kind (or brand) of stain is best for cedar decks(or what have you had good luck with) ie. dries/soaks in completely, lasts a year or more)? -Thanks! -Han

this is a project my hubby will be doing and he had a few questions he wanted me to pass along; thanks for your help! Situation: Hanging double screen doors in a stucco framed opening. The rough dimensions of the opening are 64" wide by 92" tall. The width varies from 63-5/8" to 64-1/4". The height varies from 92" to 91-1/2". There is an concrete slab step that frames the bottom. The wooden screen doors will hang in their own frame about 3 feet away from the main double entry doors. Facing the entry way from the outside, the left door will be stationary, anchored by a sliding lock at the top and a sliding lock at the bottom into the concrete step (with a small hole in the concrete to receive the lock). Both doors will open to the outside, with an astrogal on the right door to close against the left stationary door. Questions: 1) How wide an opening to frame for the doors? The doors are 30". Allow an extra 1/4" beyond the 60" for the doors? 2) How much height should be allowed for the frame? An extra 1/2"? 2) How to attach the frame (either 2x4 or 2x6) to the stucco walls? It is not known if there is a wooden frame under the stucco. 3) How are the frame pieces (top and side) plumbed with the uneven stucco surface? If shims are used, then what kind, and should the gaps be filled with anything? 4) What should be used to cover the gaps? Just some additonal framing pieces that overlap the main jamb wood with the stucco? 5) Should the tiny gaps then be sealed with silicone or some other substance?

Iam going to install a water softner in my home. I have an RO system for drinking water and ice maker. Should I run an unsoftned line to the RO system? Are there softners better suited to removing iron/rust,this is my chief complaint. Thank You

LOL... yup. As far as I know, coffee in moderation is perfectly fine. Tea is nice, and many to choose from. My coffee is lethal because it is so strong. As for the dangers of coffee.... Well, there are "none". Please, dear Lord, let there be none. I think my years in the darkroom, absorbing uranium intensifiers, seleniums, silver salts, acids; not to mention my time spent breathing gas and oil fumes, thinners, soldering fumes, MEK, and too many cigars has insulated me from the dangers of coffee. I theorize that as long as I drink coffee, a natural balance is maintained. As with anything, coffee in moderation. Incidentally, some teas have more caffeine than coffee. Bob

I have a salt box stiye house with a stick built roof. On the steep slope side of the roof there is already a room on the second story in the middle leaving storage eves on either side. I would like to raise one or both sides and add more bedrooms. I've done quite a lot of construction remodeling work over the years, but I've never jacked up a roof. It seems simple enough, but I was wondering if anyone can suggest anything to be careful of, or maybe even a project book that would walk me through it. Thanks, Chris

Hello - We are graduate students working on a school project and would be very grateful for the input of some Do-It-Yourself experts. Could you please take a couple of minutes to answer the following questions? Any information that you can provide would be much appreciated. Thank you very much. - Stacey, Alex and Amy (Boston University) 1. When buying home improvement supplies, what kind of in-store experience are you looking for? What kind of on-line experience? 2. Under what circumstances do you/would you use store websites to research home improvement product features and prices before buying?

Thanx, Bob I agree with you on that "even the experts...." observation. I'm very safety concious at work and home, and I forget that lots of people aren't as anal-retentive about it. I freaked out my wife early on in our marriage when I insisted that we label the flour-sugar-salt canisters BEFORE we put anything into 'em. <grin take care Buck

We are in the demolition phase of remodeling our walkout basement. As we ripped out the drywall on the retaining wall side (not the walkout side) we noticed a lot of mold on the inside of the wall. So, what do we do to clean it up and how do we prevent it in the future? If it makes any difference, we just put on a new roof and a shallow french drain (+/- 2ft. deep) on the retaining wall side (before we found this problem). When we bought the house we were notified that there was a flood incident and there was some slight drywall damage. We were OK with that since we knew we'd be remodeling eventually. The cause of said flood was leaving up grade irrigation sprinklers on much too long (over 24 hours). Upgrade is our small apple orchard which does get watered every other week or so. Thanks, Janet

to have forgotten its day to day manners (like the guy behind me in the store today griping about my numerous items to his one), it's sorta refreshing to see something so well-done and respectful..... I agree. I happen to love President Regan, especially his quick wit, charm and manners. As for when the honor guard practices, I am not sure. Obviously they do. I noticed the same thing, but I have seen it before; sadly, when President Kennedy died. Even more amazing is the twirling rifle work they do. I could watch them for hours. My gosh, what an amazing site to see. By the way, while we are on the OT Topic, thanks to any military folks on the list. To the Vietnam Vets, Welcome Home. You too Daniel. I do not know what you did on the USS Nathanael Greene, but it was probably more important than anything I've done, so this silly little fella says thanks. As for the rudeness.... it bothers me as well, Daniel. I remember a time when people were far more respectful. I can be a opinionated, loud mouthed, cranky old wonk, but I still use the manners beat into me by parents. Sadly, when you dare to call someone on their deplorable manners, they might get a gun. I am thinking about bcomming Amish and slowly fade away. By the way.... if you ever hear clop.... clop.....clop....clop....bang....clop....clop... clop...clop....bang.... it is an Amish Drive By Shooting. LOL. I kill me, or someone will. Bob

I'm one of those chemists Bob mentioned. Over the years, I've come to realize there's a lot of truth in something I heard in college; there are no dangerous chemicals, only dangerous PROCEDURES. Hydrofluoric acid (note the spelling) or "HF" can be used safely. HF is the active ingredient of glass-etching pastes and creams. You don't want to use the liquid, since it's much harder to control. These creams and pastes have rather low concentrations, but even so you want to take precautions. You'll probably see these same safety instructions on the bottle..... Don't work alone. If (god forbid) you do have to be taken to the emergency room, make sure that the product literature that came with your etching kit goes with you. That way the doctors and nurses will know EXACTLY what they're dealing with. Use plenty of ventilation. This really means: take the project outside. Wear safety goggles that cover the sides of your eyes Don't touch the stuff. Use rubber gloves. Check the gloves for leaks first by blowing them up like balloons, but JUST A LITTLE bit inflated. Don't use two layers of gloves (friction between the two layers will damage the gloves) Buck

Regarding glass etching: There are many ways to etch glass or provide the look of etched glass. Hydroflouric acid, etching creams designed for the hobby folk and sandblasting are the best, all giving you a different look. Frosted paints should be discounted in my personal opinion, but this is just my opinion. However . . . I simply can not stress too much how extraordinarily dangerous hydroflouric acid is. No one here should ever consider even purchasing the stuff, because its dangers are far greater than any other acid you are likely to encounter. This one is a genuine killer in a bottle. Sorry to sound like an alarmist, but you have no idea. There are acids and then there is hydroflouric acid. It is uniquely deadly. No offence, but few here are in a position to safely use hydroflouric acid; well, there might be a few chemists here, so I apologize if I seem to be talking down to the group. If you do not understand how exceedingly dangerous the acid is, avoid it at all costs. It is unlike any other acid you will ever encounter. The vapors can kill you depending upon the amount and concentration. This acid is one of the most corrosive liquids known. The burns will deeply penetrate into the skin and washing with water is of no help. The acid will react with your skin and bones in such a way that treatments need to be very specific; conventional treatments for acid burns are useless. If you had an accident and went to the emergency room, you might have a problem, if the doctors or nurses treat the burn like a conventional acid burn. Delayed treatment means you can die. As it is, if you are severely burnt, you could lose limbs. Just a few drops is, or can be enough to cause you grief you do not want. Please, AVOID this acid at all costs, it is not worth the trouble. It does make nice etched glass, however. I etch many sheets of glass, and I will never consider using this acid, even though I understand its unique dangers. It scares me silly. It is recommended that you confirm with your local hospital that they can treat hydroflouric acid burns, if you decide to use the acid. The immediate treatment that is required might not be well known by many doctors, so it is simple: if you use it, call your hospital and ask them if they understand treatment for exposure to this specific acid. Treatment delays can cost you your life, it is just that simple. Hydrochloric, sulfuric or nitric acids do not pose the same dangers, but they will not etch glass, either. So, leave it alone, play it safe and visit a craft store and purchase one of the brands of creams or pastes. I hope that my rather long and scary post does not make it seem like I am treating you all like children, but this is one acid you must never, EVER use, purchase, store or handle. I always try to scare people when I read a mention of a material like hydroflouric acid. I always assume people might not fully comprehend that some materials are way past being simply dangerous. It must be my former life as a Haz-Mat, Lead Hazards and Chemical Safety Trainer; I even question my own coffee. Another corrosive to avoid at all costs : Bob - The DIY List's Official Chicken Little

My apartment has 42" wide windows but all air conditioning window units (5000BTUs) have side flaps which extend to a maximum of 36". I have a hard time believing I'm the only one who has a window wider than 3ft. Does anyone know of any brands that cater to extra-wide windows or have any suggestions on how I can plug the gaps? Thanks.

I think it's great. I belong to upwards of 30 lists, and I believe FORWARDING ANYTHING to a list is rude. Whatever the hot urban myth of the moment is, I'll get at least 10, from different lists. People don't even bother to verify them!!! which boggles my mind. (hey, you, did you know the word "gullible" isn't in the dictionary?) So thank you, from at least one happy list member. Maribeth If you're too open-minded, your brains will fall out.

My sister used to have a Devon Rex cat because of her step-daughter's severe allergies to cats. THe darn thing never bothered her or my allergies for that matter. Their fur is very close to human hair which is why they are A-OK. At least that is what the breeder told her. Sorry to hear about your reaction to your meds, Trinity. When was in labor with my youngest 2 boys, I had an entrothecal(sp?). It is administered in the back like an epidural, but not as potent. Anyway, this stuff makes you itch, but it you itch UNDER your skin and can't get to it. Then they finally give you Benadryl after you have itch every inch of your body not caring whose in the room! Kati Catless but now with other allergies (pollen, ragweed, living right in the middle of a farming community )**a-CHOO!!!** in Iowa

I neglected to mention that I'm looking for an electric heater. Sorry about that. Unfortunately, we don't have any gas hook-ups in my area. I live in Houston TX. Mike

In a message dated 6/8/2004 6:18:35 PM Central Standard Time, rexlady@... writes: Darned good thing my cats are horrible spellers. They are pretty sure they're superior to any two legged life forms. And they occasionally type. But they can't spell worth anything. Maribeth

What about putting in glass blocks?

In a message dated 040608 19:04:37, flamnembr@... writes: << and anyone who doesn't like my decree, can just bite me. Haaaaaah, haaaaah, haaaah, haaa. Oh... ah... ahem, that really got me in a good mood. Tom (I'm still laughing)

My 50 gallon water heater has sprung a small leak, about a quart in 24 hours. It came with the house and is probably 15 years old so I've decided to bite the bullet and get a new one. I want one that is very efficient as my energy bill this already through the roof and summer hasn't even begun. I welcome recommendations? Mike

I have some cordless B&D tools and am please with them. However, I need to buy some more batteries. I'll be taking a step up to the "gold" batteries (I think it's "gold"). I can do my own internet search but I wonder it anyone has found a good supplier for other replacement batteries (i.e., not B&D, Lowe's have these). I have a DeWalt 9v cordless drill, a Makita 14v cordless drill and a Makita 14v cordless circular saw. I have only found 3rd party batteries and my concern is whether these batteries are really any good and if the suppliers provide good followup service, when needed. Anyone got anything on this? Tom

I have plantatioin shutters but they are not an easy clean. Sidney

Subject: RE: Bathroom Window over Tub--Need suggestion I need some suggestions on how to cover a bathroom window that is located over a bath- tub. This window is on the first floor, and you can see into it from the outside. I have tried a curtain, gets wet and does not look good. I have tried a window blind, too hard to keep clean. I was looking for some frosted contact vinyl to put up or some type of stained glass panel that would still let the light in but would keep out all nosey neighbors. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what I could use in this window? Thanks, Alice (Pudggiebunny)

Hey everyone. My wife and I just bought a house, but we can't move in till Aug 1. In the final walk through I noticed in one of the showers the owners had taped a small piece of clear plastic across the top of the hot and cold water knobs and the faucet. It literally looks like a little water shield to keep them dry from the shower above. I'm in the DC market where it's become common practice to waive the home inspection in order to win the bid on the house (there were 4 offers, escalating $16,000 above asking...it's crazy here!), so please, I know the pitfalls of not getting a home inspection. My question is what do you think is the problem? Water getting behind the fixtures and causing problems? If so, how can I fix it when I move in? Thanks! Steve

I would say its a dumb idea just different. Two questions then I will be able to be more helpful. Can you get into the attic space and can you get to the wall the outlet is own? Also do you want to keep the outlet switched? Well that was three wasn't it. Reply back and I will help with some suggestions. Robert R.

I'm not a professional, just a female do it yourselfer at home. I love my black and decker drill and my black and decker mouse sander and my black and decker scum buster. I think the charge on the drill lasts a sufficient amount of time for what I use it for. (It took all the hardware off my kitchen cabinets and put all the new on all in one day with out recharging) The scum buster needs to have 2 batteries rather than just the one. The mouse is corded. I have no idea which of the packages would be the better one. But for someone who uses the drill maybe once every 2 weeks or so, not often, it works great. I've had it about 4 years now. JMHO, Sidney

I am planning on getting a cordless combo kit, but B&D offers two kits, one a B&D "Firestorm" and the other a regular B&D kit. The Firestorm kit offers circular saw, reciprocating saw, drill, and flashlight, while the regular offers the same, plus a vaccuum. Both are 18V and both offer two nicad batteries and charger and case. The Firestorm kit is $299 and the regular kit is on sale at $249 (reg. price is $299). What is the difference between the regular B&D and the B&D Firestorm kit. Is that one better? And if so is it worth the extra $50 and minus a vaccuum? I would have liked to go Milwaukee or Dewalt, but at $800, no thanks. Normally I wouldn't go cordless because of the torque, but these tools are the ones I wanted to eventually add to my list anyways.

Well my eyes are crossed from reading Jessi's story...and about the pantyliners and needing newbies moderated and vinyl siding and miscolored grout....etc. Anyway, I just wanted to share with the rest of the class. Kati

I am undertaking a complete renovation of my Master closet area. We have an old Victorian house and I have gutted a 8 x 12 room that is attached to our master bedroom on the first floor. Our plan is to do everything neccassary to eventually convert it from a nursery to a master bathrooom in 2 years. I plan on wiring all outlets for a future bathroom, venting in ceiling, GFCI outlets at counter top height light fixtures ready for vanity lights etc... I am also drywalling it all in green board. Also making sure to get all vents for plumbing in the wall cavities and water hookups roughed in but no hooked up. And then putting down some remnant carpeting over the hardwood floor. My question is this. We were planning on putting in a whirlpool tub in the corner of the room. What I would like to do is at least get it in the room and tiled into the corner and hooking up plumbing and drains. Then I would like to make it into a play area, putting a 3/4 pc of plywood covered with foam and fabric to cover the tub area. So we could use the tub here and there and also have it as a usable snuggle area with the baby and our 3 yr. old. DO you think this would work? Am i forgetting anything? Thanks for any advice or direction you can give me if anybody has undertaken something such as this.

Before getting into the fan business,,,,you have a wall outlet that is operated by a wall switch. These are there so you can put a lamp there and when you walk into the room you can turn on the lamp from the opposite side of the room. This couild have been wired a couple of ways but it looks like they extended the "hot" wire to the wall switch using a piece of romex from the outlet. Take a look behind the wall outlet and see if theres a couple of extra wire nuts and maybe even a black and a white wire nutted together. When you use a white wire as a hot your supposed to mark it as black with ink or some black tape so you know you changed the color and also the purpose of the wire,,,,maybe they did't do that. Anyway its a dumb idea to operate two reciptacles on a single switch like the way you're thinking and its probably against the electrical code. Why not just tap off a main feed and put in another switch next to the other one???

If you have a garbage disposal, that could be the source of the smell. Try running some ice cubes and bleach OR vinegar in the disposal. Or else try the bleach OR vinegar down the sink without running water. That always works for me when I get an odor coming from the pipes. If that doesn't work then try some DranO or whatever. If THAT doesn't work, I would think it sounds (or smells) like something is backed up and you may need to call a plumber or roto-rooter. Kati In Iowa with occasional smelly drains

I am attempting to install a ceiling fan into a line that is connected to an existing switch that works an outlet on the other side of the room.. It is not a 3 way switch. just a plain old on off type. The outlet has a line coming in to the box and one going out. the switch has only one coming in. i want to work both the outlet and the fan from the same switch, but everytime i hook it up, i can't get the right combination to get the switch to work both of them. At the switch the white is "hot" not the black. How do i do this and not burn down the house???

OK, we're replacing a pair of solid french doors to the bedroom, with ONE solid door (for locking purposes, hee hee). Of course, the hinge area will have to support twice as much weight. Are we going to have a problem having the doorframe supporting all the extra weight, because it will only be on one side? Thanks in advance, Maribeth If you're too open-minded, your brains will fall out.

When I retired 3 years ago I got a compound miter saw and a sewing machine. I tore out all the casing and redid the moulding. It came out ok but I had to hire a carpenter to do the crown moulding on the cathedral ceiling. I'm still getting over my sense of failure. Next project I have a custom made stair rail in our high ranch it is covered in laminate (formica) I want to change it. It is about 97" long with cut outs and goes across the living room floor so that you don't fall into the stair well. I was wondering if I could remove the formica and cover it with veneer? Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Thank you.

hi my name is beth i am a stay at home work at home single mom with a new house well ive owned it a year and oh my god there is so much to do!!! how can one person keep up with all of this???? i would love any ideas on how to keep things nice and kept u withough going crazy!!! help! bethie

Assuming this jack is active: Go to Radio Shack and get a modular jack, a really cheap phone and some alligator clips, preferably the kind of alligator clips with screws on the sides of them. Then go to Home Depot and buy a foot of telephone cable. Strip back some of the wire jacket on each end of the wire, find the red and green wires (the only ones that count), and strip half an inch or so of insulation from each end of each wire. Put the jack at one end and an alligator clip at the other on each wire, then plug the phone in. Now go to your quad jack. Put the phone to your ear. Clip each alligator clip to a different screw and listen for a dial tone. You won't hear one on your first connection, so move the red one to a different screw and listen, then move it again. If no luck, move the green one to a different screw and go around again until you find the pair that gives you a dial tone. Now move the wires from the quad jack to the modular one so that whatever wires were connected to the red alligator clip are now connected to the red-wire terminal in the modular jack, and whatever wires were connected to the green alligator clip are now connected to the green-wire terminal in the modular jack. You can hook the other two pairs (if indeed they're connected to anything on the quad jack) to any other screw you like; US telephone service is two-wire service. Then go spend some of that $250 on something you want. -- --jmowreader

Hi, I just had a request for help on tracing wires in an office. Please be careful when working on your phone wires in a office where you have a multilne telephone system or a key system. If you try to tone out a wire on your key system or even plug in a regular telephone in a station jack on your key system you may cause damage. If you must tone out a wire, please contact me for some in depth instructions. By placing your tone on a spare pair of wires that you know are dead should cause no problems. Working on a plain old telephone number is not as critical. Thanks, Noel.

The asbestos question belongs in the nether world along with R12, and atomic waste. The government likes to ban the use of something and outlaw it. Then they say it should be disposed of in a "proper manner" And nobody knows what the heck they are talking about since there really are no disposal sites available for the public. What the big outfits do is to dig a big hole,,,,,bury it,,,and wait. Later on they make a public park out of it and donate it to the gov't. what a joke.

For those interested in folowing our progress. We have just added a new page under the "construction" tab. Look for the "HEATING" button. Ray & Beth www.mountainviewdome.com

Hello All, I'm hoping someone can help me. We recently moved into an older house, roughly 32 years old. The previous owners pulled up just about every floor covering in the house and replaced it with lovely gold carpet. At least it isn't shag. Anyway, we had planned on pulling out the carpet and installing a floating laminate floor. I figure the floating floor will deal with the subfloor inperfections, including the old vinyl that covers only half the kitchen (the other half is carpet!) My problem is, my asthmatic child can no longer live with this carpet, so my husband and I have been forced to deal with this situation immediately instead of taking our time. We simply can't do laminate at this time, so we are opting to put vinyl in. I only care that the vinyl looks fairly good, is going to stay put and will last the couple of years we plan to take to remodel. So, Can I put sheet vinyl right on to my existing subfloor? I really don't want the hassle of installing a new subfloor, it will only take more time. The current subfloor seems fine. The house is on a crawl space and has what looks to be a type of pressboard subflooring. It is not plywood directly under the carpet. Everything I've read as called for new subflooring. I would appreciate any help or ideas dealing with this. The floor has to go soon! Thank you, Shannon

ok folks this one is baffleing me. my tub drain will work fine for like a month then it stopps up again. what would cause it to do this? thanks :-)

Instead of just buying a 2200 sq. ft. house, I want to research buying a 1100 sq ft. ranch, and having a 2nd floor added. Either for personal use, or as an investment 2 friends have advised the cost of the addition would be around $100k. (I will round that up to $150k to be safe) I feel this may be a profitable venture, provided the circumstances are right. And I am willing to do the work and research and legwork to make this happen. If the cost of the ranch + $150k is less than the cost of a colonial by at least $50k, then I think it may be worth my while to coordinate this type of renovation. It takes me a year to earn $50k in my day job, so it might be worth $50k to take on a part time job of arranging this addition project. I would need to factor in potentially 6 months (1 year worst case projection) of eaten mortgage payments, (since easier to complete with house vacant) Since it costs the same $100k to build an addition in an upscale as it does in the ghetto, the differential b/c ranch and colonial might be greatest in the high end towns....So I will start there. Buy a ranch for $450k. Add +$150k. And hopefully own a $700k house in an exclusive town, with a profit of $100k for my troubles. It could be a worthwhile part time job for next year (getting zoning paperwork done, hiring contractors, etc), But where do I even start with something like this? 1) I have been told CERTAIN ranch homes are perfect for adding a 2nd floor to, and others are a more complex expensive job. Specifically, how do I know if a particular home is suitable for an easy 2nd story addition? 2) I hear certain towns are easier to get zoning permits than others. What do I need to look up at town hall? 3) Clearly, I am only buying the ranch if the cost of the addition makes it cheaper than buying a finished 2 story home....So how do I get an estimate for an addition, when I don't even own the house yet? Thanks for any guiance on where I can start....

In a message dated 6/4/2004 12:15:41 PM Central Daylight Time, doreendawson2000@... writes: Is there anything else that will help this project to go well and look good? I am very much a novice at painting and appreciate any and all advise. I'm not a professional but I have painted lots of rooms. Preparation is the key. A drop cloth (I use the clear plastic that I can throw away - they're 99 cents at Home depot) painting tape (not masking tape) get the kind that will work best for the job you are doing (however I really like the blue color best for my inside rooms I've done!) Get a GOOD brush, not the cheapies that you can buy. It really does matter, and if you are rolling the walls and ceiling (I'd recommend rolling) get a GOOD roller. Buy good paint. I think different people have different favorites. I used to like Porter, but I swear I think Behr works better for me. That's what I use now. I don't know if any of this is any help at all. There are professional folks on here who can tell you much more than I can. Sidney

Thanks for everybody's help. I think I've got it now. Below are my step-by-step instructions on moving a rig that has to lay down during the move. Please let me know if I have something wrong. TERMS (I hope I have defined them correctly): Suction line = typically a fatter line, exits from the compressor and is on the side of the compressor commonly referred to as the "low side." A tube is attached to it which then runs up the backside of the frig, up to the freezer. The side of the frig where the suction tube runs up is TYPICALLY the side upon which you will want to attach your dolly (and the side you want to lay the frig on... if you must lay it down). Output line = (also called the compression line?) typically a smaller line than the suction line, usually on the opposite side of the compressor than the suction line and is referred to as being on the "high side" of the compressor system. This line goes to the condenser which is the set of metal coils that are usually visible all over the back of the frig. Oil cooling loop = not of concern when trying to decide which side to lay a frig on. COMPRESSOR OPERATION: When the frig is in normal operating mode, air and moisture (or whatever) is being sucked into the compressor via the suction line and forced out of it via the output/compression line. Thus, if oil gets into the larger suction line during transport, it has an easier time returning to the compressor during its 24-hours sitting time (after relocation), because it was in that larger line instead of a smaller one. Also, and maybe more importantly, any minimal amount of oil that remains in the suction line will be sucked back into the compressor once it is turned on. If there was oil remaining in the output/compressor line, when the compressor was turned back on it would push that oil away from the compressor and into the condenser coils. STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS (for moving a frig which has to lay on its side during transport): - Borrow or rent a refrigerator dolly. - If ice has condensed in the freezer, defrost it before you start the moving process. - At some point turn the setting on your frig down (i.e., from 3 to 4... like you want it colder) until you hear the compressor come on (if you have to defrost the freezer, the compressor will automatically come on when you finish defrosting and you turn the frig back on). Listen to and remember how the compressor sounds. You will be comparing that sound to the sound it makes once it is at its new location and has been turned back on. - Turn off the frig, empty it out (including the shelves and drawers) and unplug it. If you have to move it in order to unplug it, read the next step before moving it. - If you have a lower front panel, take if off of the frig (usually pulls off but may have to be unscrewed). See if you have a drip pan at the base of the frig and, if so, remove it slowly and dump the water out. - Consider the pros and cons of removing the doors to the frig (remember that, with the doors removed, it will be easier to get out and in (both lighter and thinner) AND the frig's door hinges will not be stressed during the move). - Move the frig away from the wall (if you haven't already) and see on which side a large line (the suction line) runs up the back of the frig. Now look through the back of the bottom of the frig at the compressor (that big thing, usually black and spherical in shape) and see where the largest tube from the compressor is located (i.e., the tube that the suction tube is attached to... which then runs up the back of the frig). If they (the large tube out of the compressor and the side of the frig that the attached suction tube runs up) are both on the same side, strap the dolly to that side of the frig. If the largest tube out of the compressor (the one the suction line is attached to) is actually located on the other side of the compressor (i.e., the opposite side from the side which the suction tube runs up the back of the frig... unusual to find this configuration), attach the dolly to the side of the frig where the large tube comes out of the compressor (i.e., disregard the side of the frig the suction tube runs up). If you cannot see the compressor, get someone to tilt the frig so you can look under it and determine these things. BE CAREFUL. - Strap the dolly to the side of the frig as indicated above. Put a large plywood board between the dolly and the frig and a blanket (SMOOTHED OUT) between the board and the frig before strapping the dolly (with the board and the blanket) to the frig. The frig is going to rest on the dolly during transport and the board and blanket, will be needed if you do not want the frig to end up with two groves in it from where it was strapped to the dolly. The board should be as similar in size to the frig as you can find but not larger than the frig or it will catch onto things during the move. Also the board and blanket cannot be too thick because the lip on the bottom of the dolly does not extend out very far. So if you use a thick board and several folded blankets, the frig could stick out so far from the dolly that it slips off the bottom of the dolly. DANGER! If you have taken the doors off, do not strap the dolly too tightly otherwise you might bow in the sides (at the front) and crack the interior walls. - Move the frig to the transport vehicle. ALWAYS move (and transport) a frig carefully. The compressor has springs in it which become brittle with age and can be broken if the frig/compressor is jogged to violently. - Once in the transport vehicle, keep the frig attached to the dolly and lay it down on the dolly. Keep the top of the frig as high as possible by placing something between the dolly and the floor. Any height increase in the top of the frig over its bottom helps in restricting the migration of the oil during transport. Secure the rig so that it will not move or likely be damaged during transport. Keep in mind that, if you have the rig in a diagonal position (i.e., top higher that bottom) there will be an added amount of stress at the bottom corner which comes in contact with the dolly (and, consecutively, with the floor). If there is a way you can cushion that contact (without staining backs) then do it. You might be able to roll the dolly up onto several folded blankets (might need a piece of plywood over the blankets). Take the least bumpy route to your destination. Once at your destination, get the rig upright as soon as you can. Once you have it in its new location, let it sit for at least one day before plugging it in. - Once your rig has been turned on, listen for any new noises from the compressor. Clanking noises may be an indication that a compressor spring (inside the compressor) broke in transport. Also, if the rig does not get as cold as it used to, you may have damaged the compressor in transport. If either has happen, you may need to replace the compressor or buy a new rig. But first, turn it off, let it sit for a week and then try again. This might not help any but you never know. - Tom, in Charlottesville, VA

My family room is painted on ceilings and walls with semi-gloss. It was painted by previous owner about 7 years ago. I want to paint with a ceiling paint (white) on ceiling and eggshell on the walls. I've been advised to use a primer before painting. Is there anything else that will help this project to go well and look good? I am very much a novice at painting and appreciate any and all advise.

So... When I run the water in my bathroom sink, it has kind of a sewery smell to it... Any ideas? Could it be something in the drain that's set off by water? - Marc

Hi. I am remodeling a 1974 townhome that was part of a "quick and dirty" developement. The structure is good but there were few niceties when it was built and none added in-between. By todays standards it could almost be called functionally obsolete, almost. It has 2 1/2 baths, 3 br and 2 main rooms on the ground floor. The kitchen is of an obsolete design with washer and drier and no storage or vent. I plan to lay down new subflooring and install woodfloors, replace the windows, doors, moulding and fixtures. All do-it-yourself. I feel it is worth doing as the area is in a rapid growth mode and the assessed price of the house has already doubled in the last two years. The installation of 2 ceiling fans and 2 new windows and a door has already slashed the heating and cooling costs by 2/3. Well, details later. And a request for advice, tips, war stories to share, etc. Misery loves company. -Charles

I'm building a deck, roughly 15 by 24. I wanted to use concrete piers to support the posts, but I'm not high enough off the the ground. So, after checking with my local contractor supply yard, they tell me the professional deck builders in my area do the following when installing the posts... dig a hole 24" deep with post hole diggers dump in a 1/2 bag of ready mix drop in a post longer than needed tamp dirt to fill in hole cut off post to correct height. Questions... Should I make a bell shape in bottom of the hole? I've read this reduces heaving in winter. Do I put water on the ready mix or just go ahead and install the post letting the dry mix concrete draw moisture from the surrounding ground? One contractor told me he wraps the part of the post that's in the ground with felt paper. Do I need this, or is there an even better method of taking extra measures to protect the post? I am planning to coat the top of the post with some type preservative, but I'm not sure what to use. Next...extra support for a hot tub. How many support post and how far apart should I have them for a hot tub. Any suggestions about this or any part of building a deck is greatly appreciated. I only want to do this once, if you know what I mean. Thanks in advance. Patrick

HiYa's everyone! I am new to the group and also in the process of refurbishing my home. My name is Miles, I live in South Georgia, and I am 42 years of age. Married to my wonderful wife Dawn for 15 years, and we have 2 girls Steffanie 14, and Hailey 11. Normally I would ask my daughters...cause you know that they know EVERYTHING at that age! LOL But, I just got through reroofing my home, and now getting prepared to paint. And I am very unsure of what types of paint and or primer I should use. My house is sided mostly with the old asbestous shingles. And I have replaced a lot of my woodwork with preasure treated lumber. So any tips would be greatly appreciated. Especially what types of paint. And what brands of paint. I've been pricing PORTERS paint, but it's really kinda high priced. I've heard that some places such as WAL-Mart carry a Wal-Mart brand paint that is actually Benjamin Moore brand? Is this true, and would it be wise to use it? Thanks for any input and help. Miles

All I know is that I have an eggshell room and a satin room and the sheen is completely different. What is a faux finish? What is your experience with dark red? I'm having a horrible time getting an even coat on. I got a tinted primer and have done about three coats and it still looks terrible. At least it isn't hot-pink looking like it started out.

I'm painting my kitchen. I used a satin sheen but the imperfections just show up too much. Is it alright to go over it with eggshell or will that cause problems? Thanks!

Look,,I don't know exactly what make and model refrigerator you have so the instructions you were given were in general terms. A lot of these things have a line on each side of them. Yours ,it seems was designed with them on one side. So the side where all the lines are (compression and suction) should be pointing up. The one marked Process is probably for the maker when he charges the system. not your concern.With all the lines up you can't go wrong. Remember that this is an old machine so don't go bouncing it down any tobbacco roads. good luck.

Has anyone purchased carpet and/or tile on line? If so, what was your experience? Any recommendations on places to stay away from or places w/ great service and price? Thanks, Janet

Fellows, As I look at the diagram of the compressor on this frig I see the following: Tube coming out of one side (say the left side): - PROCESS TUBE Tubes coming out of the other side (say the right side): - SUCTION LINE - COMPRESSOR DISCHARGE - OIL COOLER TUBES (2) If I am trying to keep the oil from leaving the compressor (when laying the frig flat) would it not be important to lay it so the right side (i.e., the side with the most of the tubes) was up? If I did, would the oil still migrate out of the single tube on the other side (PROCESS TUBE) and, if so, is that bad. I haven't forgotten that regardless of how it is laid down, once at its destination it will need to stand upright for several hours before starting. I am only concerned, at this point, about the least-risky mode of horizontal transport whereby there is either limited oil migration or whereby the horizontal transport method used would make it easiest for migrated oil to properly relocate itself once upright... whichever method is best. Thanks again for all your help. I owe you one. Tom

After a rain the water level in my septic rises above the intake pipe. It normally doesn't cause any backup in the house. The septic is in an area I figure is below the existing water level or else the run off from the rain is filling the tank. Is this normal? Thanks, Roger

Folks, I'm new to the group. My wife and I purchased an older model home (circa 1947). While the house is very charming, I felt at home in it the first time I set foot in it. My wife did not care for it because of the poor condition of some of the sub-systems of the house. The point is I have several things that need to be done to it. Windows, doors (front, side and back)AC unit, bathroom floor, insulation and a garage conversion. I'm gonna need some help but I will definately learn alot from this experience and hope you bear with me. Jay

Can this be done at home by a woman? If so, where do you go to get a small amount? Should it be one of the cement yards? Is it hard? Difficult? My projects are not big but I've never tried this before.

Hey group, I first want to say that I am glad to hear you are doing good after your surgery Trinity. You seem to be up to you same old humorous self. Glad to see that. I have a question about removing rusted screws. My sister bought me a "used" metal glider that really is not in too bad of shape but needs to be restored. It is actually made of wood strips for the seat on a metal frame. I am trying to take off the wood strips to work on the metal frame and have the problem of rusted nuts. There is a problem in that the screws are the kind that have a solid face--no place to put in a screw bit at all. The rusted bolts that hold it turn the whole thing freely, if at all. I have taken off 7 of the 13 wooden slats off but I cannot get the others off. Some of them have the rounded nuts on them--they have a "cap" on them--and some are just plain nuts but all are fairly rusted solid. I've sparayed WD-40 ad nauseum on them but they will not budge! Any suggestions as to how I can take these darned things off will be very appreciated. Any suggestions as to how to get the best finish on the metal glider would be appreciated as well. I plan to clean it off as best I can and scrape it with a metal brush to get rid of the rust. Treat it with rusteoleum or an equivalent primer and then paint it with an enamel paint. For the wooden slats I will sand and then treat with a wood sealer--any suggestions here? Also, I am concerned about the ends of the metal tubes that make up the frame. Long ago they lost the end caps for them. Water will continue to get in there and rust the thing if I do not find some end caps. Where could I find such things. Thanks in advance for your help! Ande

Thanks to a baseball size piece of hail my front window is cracked all the way across the bottom pane...I was hoping the tonando would take my house to Kansas or Oz but no such luck it didn't touch down until it was 2 miles east of me. These windows are the very old wooden ones, and it looks like the glass is only held in with caulk. My question is can I replace the glass with plexi without removing the frame from the wall? Last night I thought it would be simple to fix but I have kept on thinking and now am not sure. If a picture would help I'll go out this afternoon once the sun is behind the house and snap one. Thanks in advanced...and yes I am a blonde that may be the biggest problem. haha Laura in OK

I received an email about whether or not to continue receiving DIY. I could not forward my reply-it came back to me. Yes, I still want to be a member.

I have a work bench that has been handed down at least twice and maybe more.The bench is in execelent shape, all the joints are wedged or pin . The topwork surface was getting ruff, so I decided to use a belt sander with fine paper. All the markerings are still there only now I have a smooth surface to work on.(have another bench for steel/cooper work)......................ok, if it was your bench would you.....1. leave it bear.......2.put a good quality stain (looks only..............3.polyurethane (but the will kill the oldness If there is such a word)..........4or there is always wax........remember this bench is used........re.member if this was YOURS what would you do........thanks inadvance FOZ Remember the POW/MIA , theres still Hope

Helpful Information 1. If you are choking on an ice cube, don't panic. Simply pour a cup of boiling water down your throat and presto! The blockage will be almost instantly removed. 2. Clumsy? Avoid cutting yourself while slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold them while you chop away. 3. Avoid arguments with the Mrs. about lifting the toilet seat by simply using the sink. 4. High blood pressure sufferers: simply cut yourself and bleed for a while, thus reducing the pressure in your veins. 5. A mousetrap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from rolling over and going back to sleep when you hit the snooze button. 6. If you have a bad cough, take a large dose of laxatives, then you will be afraid to cough. 7. Have a bad toothache? Hit your thumb with a hammer, then you will forget about the toothache. AND, always Remember The 2 Rules of Life: WD-40 and duct tape 1. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. 2. If it moves and shouldn't, use the duct tape. AND, 2 things You can Always be Thankful for.... 1. If you woke up breathing, congratulations! You have another chance! 2. Be thankful for your family and friends. You never know when you are going to need them to empty your bedpan!

LOL! Right, and then send all your profits to us in Nigeria! :) Trinity, so glad to hear you are well enough to be snarfing graham crackers etc. Hope your surgery settled everything and you will be feeling feisty again soon!! Ann

You could always put some Thompsons Water Seal on them. its the stuff they seal decks with.

Didn't you say you sometimes trip the breaker when you turn it on? FWIW, get a couple of more estimates and what he said to the other electricians -- see if they agree. On the off chance the guy was on the up-and-up, you might have an issue that really does need to be taken care of -- electrical problems have a nasty habit of being fine for the longest time UNTIL.... I thought it was kind of cool myself. :P I really hope to build a dry creek with pond/bog in it this summer and I'll be going with solar powered equipment for the lighting and pump -- I just don't want to run power out there. :) James

Maybe the idea of painting the kids would work? (couldn't resist either) I am thinking than poly-eu would work since it is sealing the wood up. Just don't let the kids in that bathroom for a while after you apply it, or else you will have an even bigger mess. Kati

has a couple of cabinets that are stained. They look good but they are not protected from water or anything. When my kids touch them with their dirty hands they always leave a mark. I don't want to paint them. I like the wood look- Would polyeurothane (sp) fix the problem?

Air conditioning?? Now? You should move to Wisconsin. We are still using the heat!! Come to think of it last summer I probably only used the A/C all of four times. The down side is that I had to replace my 8 year old furnace a few months ago due to a cracked heat exchanger. Joe

First off,,,he had no business touching anything on your house. He was there for an estimate and he should have kept his hands off everything. There are a lot of electricians in Pheonnix. Call a bunch of them before you decide. If this first guy was so concerned,,,,,where is he now????

We bought a home 4 months ago! I notice that our central A/C runs constantly during the early to late afternoon and has a hard time coling the house ! The A/C is working properly,However we live in the South and our living room window faces the sun! When the sun goes behind the trees everything is fine! I will install blinds this Saturday! This will help! Any suggestions on what else I could do? Next year I want to upgrade the compressor! I presently have a 2 ton!

No. But only because I'm in the insurance industry, and I *know* which of my clients I can trust to do a good job. And which ones to avoid. Local service - I think I'll get more attention that way. Won't have to wait so long to get a job done. Sorry, can't answer the rest . . . Maribeth

Hello All! I am in the process of starting a Contractor Referral Service (no, I PROMISE, I am not soliciting here - I won't even mention the State I am in :-)). I was hoping, if you had some spare time, you could answer a couple of quick questions for me. I am finalizing my business plan and would appreciate any help I could get. Here is a very brief explanation of what the business concept is so you have a basis for my questions. The Contractor Referral Service is a referral service recommending pre-screened contractors to consumers that inquire. The service is FREE to the consumer. The contractors pay a nominal amount ($24.95) to be listed on my site - only if they pass my screening (current licenses, insurance, worker's comp where necessary, 3 satisfied referrals that I check on personally, etc.). In order to remain on my site they must adhere to my qualifications and also continue to receive high customer satisfaction ratings. Okay here it goes: 1) As a consumer would you use a service like this? 2) As a consumer you have National and Local choices for this type of service (both are free to you), which would you be more inclined to use? 3) As a contractor would you find value added services such as the ability to use Bid Estimating Software from the site (for an added fee) a benefit to you? 4) Can you recommend a Bid Estimating Software package that is versatile in all aspects of repairs, remodeling, etc.? 5) What is the average cost of a good quality Bid Estimating Software package? Thanks for your help on this. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks again, Lorena Stanley

I would say cash..as the graduate may be saving for college, an apartment, etc. Either that or Wal-Mart/Target or some type of variety deptartment store. Kati

I wish I had some good and funny remark to add to the discussion...but alas. ..just something factual: My fridge has a switch that is highly visible and can be pushed time and again for hours of fun for my children and their little friends. In 10 years and numerous kids, the bulb has had to only be replaced once...and we keep a fairly cold fridge. My freezer does not have a light, but my deep freeze does and has the same visible switch...one that can be pushed while the door is open to see if it is shutting off or not....just an idea. Also, my digital and regular cameras both have timers on them....maybe that isn't such a bad idea to set a pic to snap a few seconds after closing in case the door is not hitting the switch. Or even a video camera. Just some thoughts Kati squishing around In soppy Spring wetlands known as Iowa

When you go to buy new shower doors ; they come in a kit with the side rails and the top rail and a bottom rail. The top rail you have to cut to fit and the bottom rail that sits on the tub edge has to be cut also. Word of caution:: take your time with this cutting business. If I were you, heres how i would go about it. I would get a couple of lenghts of 1/2" pvc (its cheap) or woodstrips and use it as templates for the top and bottom rail lenghts before i cut the actual thing. that way you'll get a nice tight fit.Its real easy to cut it too short.

Might be better to just buy a new carpet.

I just bought a laser level and there are a lot of warnings about eye injury from looking at the laser. I am kinda afraid to use it. How easy/hard is it to really get hurt by these things?

My husband and I just bought a great house in the Phoenix area with really ugly pink carpet. We want to rip it up and install wood floors and tile. We were going to have someone do it for us until we found out how much professional installers cost. The house is on a concrete slab. Does anyone have any tips before we start. We have never installed any kind of flooring before. Thanks! Dana

how about a dehumidifier? I run one in my very damp basement all summer long, and it does a LOVELY job. Maribeth

It will. (Of course Malco doesn't give us a special order catalog...they love the specialty houses much better than us, even though we'd sell ten times as much stuff for them as the specialty houses would.) If I didn't say it before I'll say it now: get the cheapest circular saw you can find that still works properly to cut this stuff--pawn shops are good, m'kay? It will do a number on a saw, so my Porter-Cable stays far away from Hardie siding. If you are going to do one house, get the six-tooth blade; at three houses consider getting a fiber cement shear and at five houses quit considering and pony up the cash--two to three hundred dollars. A fiber cement sh