Do it yourself

Since you only told Trinity to keep quiet - I just couldn't resist! I hope you have a little girl that will be able to help you when your wife isn't available to cook you dinner, wash your clothes and so on. My mother likes to travel with her sisters, so while she is gone I have to take care of my father who is fully able to care for himself if he knew how. My mother even has to match his clothes for him, she puts a twist tie on pants and shirts for him. He really has it bad. He knows as long as my mother and I am around that he will be taken care of. If I'm too busy to cook dinner for him when she is out of town he eat junk food. Now certainly you know how use the outside grill! We can count that. If your wife is happy with this arrangement then that's great. I use to do all the inside work plus had to do the mowing and keep up the yard. Why don't you surprise your wife and wash one load of clothes, we'll walk you through it! Sorry I just have to pick on you. Don't be offended by this. Lisa (who can't use electrical tools so has little room to talk)

Kati, I've never heard of any window having a load bearing quality. Have you picked out the window yet? If you have their should be specs regarding the requirements for the window. If you haven't picked out the window yet on of the cheapest ways for a new window is to buy a standard size patio door insulated unit. It would be fixed glass, so you couldn't raise the window. I've seen people use them a lot in sunrooms and in a large den. You could install it vertically instead of horizontal. Be sure to use rubber glass stops around the glass, caulk around between the wood & glass then trim it in wood. They come in 3 standard sizes. If memory serves me right it's 28 x 76, 34 x 76, can't remember the other one which is larger. You can get them in clear, bronze and Low E. Hope this helps. You probably can do a search on the web to find out more about the spec for windows. From experience it is better to go with a good brand window, Anderson or something along that line. I've seen windows that were on the cheaper end that if the glass gets broken out it is almost impossible to replace the glass. Some manufactories build the window around the glass and glue the glass in. If the window is made of wood, you have to cut the wood to get the glass out, which is a pain plus requires you having to putty the wood and repainting the window. Make sure the window has window stops that can be removed in the event you ever have to replace the glass. The glass stops should be on the inside, if they are on the outside of your home it's easy for someone to take them off & break into your house. I've seen that done also. They even put the glass back into the window and stop back on. It's surprising what some people do. Lisa

Can I make a suggestion about sending emails please? I am on the list that comes in digest form instead of individual emails. When you reply to a letter, could you first highlight what you want to reply to, and then add your comments, instead of just forwarding? That would eliminate all the previous addresses and comments over and over again. I have to scroll through many, many, repetitive letters sometimes 10 to twenty, to find the current letter and it's answer. Thanks, Joan

As we are preparing the remodel of our backroom, DH and I decided to add a window to the large room. But because we are installing it in an exterior wall, we are unsure how to go about (or get around) the whole load bearing thing. Yes, we will frame it in and put the "partial" studs at the top and bottom, but does the window itself have load bearing qualities? Thanks Kati Still in Iowa tipping cows and throwing their pies ;-)

My husband is in the bathroom pounding away as I write this. We're redoing a bathroom, ripping everything out down to the studs. Expected to find plaster and lath behind a ceramic tiled wall (tiled to roughly 18" below ceiling). Instead only found the p/l above the tile. The tile is set into a thick (2-3") bed of concrete set into a wire mesh. Sawzall does not saw all. Ruined a few blades. Don't want to sledghammer b/c rest of house will crack. Prybar on studs is bending studs rather than pulling down concrete that thick. Advice? What about a diamond blade on a circular saw? Thanks, Samantha

My father talked to his friend who does roofing for a living. He is going to come over to my house to look at my problem. He will also go into my attic to check for leaks. Since the black streaks are only on the back side of my house I may not do anything right now. If they were on the front I'd have to do something for appearance. I'm going to look to see if there is any warranty on the roof. I know when I purchased the house several things did include a warranty. I'm going to talk to him for my future reference about removing the existing shingles, not just putting on another layer of shingles. My father said they usually do just add another layer of shingles but then again my father's home doesn't have the problems my house does. It is a great help living in a small town where people do things for each other without charging anything. Although I've seen that generally these are people who have always lived here, most of the younger generation aren't like that which is sad. Only problem with living in a small town is everyone knows each others business, which I hate. There are so many people I don't even know that know all about me, my life and the things I've gone through. They can now add my roofing problem to the list. By the time it gets around the loop of people the story will change to my shingles are falling off, I have extremely bad water damage in my house and so on. I have to laugh it off. What else can you do? If you ever want to know something about someone just visit our post office or the only gas station we have here. You'll hear all sorts of stories. Personally I stay out of the gossip but often I'll go to the store the owner to start telling you the local gossip, it's almost like they feel it's their job. This sounds crazy but once just for fun I told the store owner I was moving to out of state. It took 1 day to get around town, my mother called me asking me what was this about me moving out of state. My ex was already asking his attorney to see what could be done about preventing me from moving. Yes, it was a mean thing to do but I couldn't help myself. Sorry to get off the topic, I do tend to carry on. I guess you have to weigh out the pros and cons of living in a small town. Lisa

In a message dated 5/1/2004 12:29:39 PM Central Standard Time, flamnembr@... writes: and now we've hit a subject that will dissolve this list. Maribeth, is it OK if we move the abortion issue to private emails? this is such a volitile topic, it will surely drive folks off the list... Either I missed something or you are jumping to conclusions that do not seem warranted. This list is so mild mannered and well behaved it is hard to believe a few comments on birth control and abortion practices in China will "dissolve this list." Joe

I truly appreciate all the advice everyone has given me about my shingles, hole in the siding and swing. I don't have any trees near my house, the ones I have in the yard aren't big since they were only planted a few years ago. The sun hits that side of the roof in the afternoon. I wish I could afford to put on a new roof but I can't right now. I noticed a place on the kitchen ceiling today that looks like a water stain. It's raining like crazy here. This house situation really upsets me. I guess that's life but I need a break! Trinity - your right without this group I'd be a lost sole. My ex knows how to repair about anything but you know that situation. Funny thing is when I was married it was like pulling my teeth out to get him to do things around the house. When I tried to fix things on my own I'd make it worse, wish I had known about this group back then. Now I have my little 9 year old son who tries his best to help me around the house although he is the cause a lot of my repairs, my 15 year old daughter is going on 25 so she doesn't help very much. Question for you guys who are married - Do you know how to operate the washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, stove or microwave? I had to teach my ex all these things when I moved out. My father only knows how to use the microwave and refuses to learn anything else - his favorite saying "that's woman's work". He is definetly living in an older generation than we are.

Hey, guys... Thanks for your help with the deck thing. Now I've got another problem that seems totally bizarre. I had the central air-conditioning replaced about four years ago. I just turned it on now to see if it works - seems fine. But for the past few years, I've noticed I've got TONS of dust when I run the a/c unit. I can't seem to find where the filter is, and as I recall, the guy who put the new outdoor unit in said that the basement blower thing doesn't HAVE a place for a filter. Does this sound right to anyone?? Is it possible that I have a central a/c unit that was made to operate without a filter? I'm about ready to put Bounce dryer sheets on the duct outlets just to keep the dust down! Any help would be greatly appreciated. :) Debby

If you want ,,the guy can soak down the spots with 50/50 bleach and water,,that'll burn it out, but you usually get it back eventually, maybe 6 mos,,a year, whatever, because maybe you got some low hanging branches that keep that spot shadey all the time. that keeps those spots damp too and its usually a combination of those two things.

I saw a program on HGTV I think it was Rooms to Go but not real sure. It's the program when they go into apartments, make improvements but make it where the renter can remove the things they do. They did put down some type of flooring down on top of old linoleum. I'm sorry I don't remember what it was, seems like it was cork something. You might want to search the HGTV site to see if you can find that episode to see what they used. They told the renter when they move out that they would simply take up the flooring because it wasn't glued down. I'm sorry I don't remember all the details but if you search HGTV site you should find it. I don't now how large of an areas you are trying to cover. If it's in your dining room also you can aways put down an area rug under the table covering up as much of the floor as you can. Hope this helps, Lisa

I definitely would have to hire someone to go on top of my house, afraid of heights. I'm guessing that anyone who puts on roofs will be able to do this for me. I know an honest man who wouldn't rip me off & does need the work. My question is this algae bad for the shingles or would I be doing this to help the appears of my roof? We had discussed several weeks ago about the fact I will probably have to replace my shingles in the near future. Would it be better to wait until I just redo the roof or go ahead get rid of the algae to make the shingles last longer? I'm learning everything in my house was do El Cheapo. I moved from a custom built home where we did most of the work or subbed out work to good subs to this house that has been one problem after another. Funny thing is all my neighbors are use to these cheap houses. Several have actually said they have lived in worse built homes. My father gave me this tip, when looking at a house to purchase look at the landscaping. All my shrubs were planted too close to the house, one sign of a cheaply built home. Oh course he didn't tell me this when I was looking for a house to buy. Oh well, I'm stuck for right now. Hopefully I can keep the house together until I can afford to relocate. Thanks for your help again & in the future. I have a feeling I will be screaming for advice again. Lisa

for a mere $300, they sell these fancy litter box hiders that look like end tables, you open the side with a hole in it, and the litter box is in it . . . Has anyone MADE some version of this? Not only do I want to make the boxes not look like boxes, but more importantly, (trying to phrase this delicately) every once in a while, one of my cats leaves a particularly stinky deposit . . . and I need something to "enclose" the odor . . . Thanks in advance, Maribeth If you're too open-minded, your brains will fall out.

I've been replacing my hardware on my cabinets and that's been fine, but I'm about to have to drill some new holes, as I have always thought that those "decorative panels" that just flop down to allow you to put a little tray behind them, should have handles to balance them out. So I have bought enough of the new handles for these panels too. I'm really afraid that I'm about to mess up my cabinets by drilling these holes (like what if measure twice cut once isn't enough!). The cabinets are oak. Does it make any difference if I drill from the back thru to the front or from the front thru to the back. I have to go thru the cabinet completely in order to attach the screw into the handle. I just wondered if for aesthetic reasons, the holes will look better one way or the other ( I guess I'm worried that the wood will splinter -- maybe I'm really worrying too much about these handles!) So, does it matter? Anything I need to be particularly careful of?? Normally when I drill, I just drill to put a screw into the wall to hold a bracket etc. This is a little more precise! Thanks, Sidney

Sid, Make yourself a jig, so that all holes are the same. Rob

I don't know if it's aluminum it might be vinyl that would make more sense wouldn't it. It's a light gray if that helps! All the houses on my street have this siding, the house is only 5 years old. Couldn't I just get a piece of duct tape & cover it up? You know duct tape fixes everything. It's behind a bush so you couldn't see the duct tape. I can't afford to replace the piece of siding right now. Here's another question, my roof is a light gray. On the back side of the house the roof is showing black streaks. What is causing this? Can anything be done about it other than replacing the shingles? There isn't any trees near the house. While I'm on a role now, I need to put new weather striping on my glass door that is in front of my front door. Do you know what type I'm taking about? You can take the glass out if you want to and put a screen in it. I thought about buying the type of weather striping that simply sticks onto doors, would that work or do I need to take the weather striping with me to the store to get the exact type for the door? Thanks for all your help & patience with me. Lisa

I'm sorry I forgot to state what type of siding. I guess you call it aluminum siding. You see it on a lot of houses. Is there anything I can do about the hole in aluminum siding? Thanks, Lisa

Calling in the troops! First, let me preface this by saying that I'm still young and hopeful that some of you have made similar mistakes... some lessons you just have to learn the hard way, I guess. Trying to keep this short...So, my wife and I wanted to redo our front yard and put in grass instead of rocks. We knew we didn't want to take on the manual labor ourselves, so we hired some guys (unlicensed and uninsured -- our big mistake) to take the rocks away, till the soil, and lay the sprinkler system and sod. To make a long story short, the sod came before they were ready, and the sprinkler system wasn't ready even the day after the sod arrived (though they did get most of the sod down). We fired them and hired someone else to finish, who finished the sprinkler system (and gave us better sprinkler heads)... here's my concerns: 1. No starter fertilizer was used, though there was previously some manure in the soil and we had a large tree cut down, so sawdust was mixed in the soil. 2. No top soil was used. 3. The grass wasn't thoroughly watered until about 3 days after it arrived and is starting to show signs of dying in parts. My big question is, what should I do now? Before the grass really starts to take root, should I have it lifted up and lay down fertilized soil in sections? Can I wait until the grass takes root and just re-sod or overseed sections that don't come back to life? I don't want to have to spend $400 ordering new sod if I don't have to... on the other hand, I'm so fed up with our experience that I'd like to just let the sprinklers do their thing and pray that it comes back to life. Also, the sod company says I should water 4 times per day for 10 minutes each for the first two weeks... does that seem correct? A book I have suggests watering deeper less often to get the roots to grow deeper, but I'm guessing that's for an established lawn. Comments? Marc

Hopefully these questions are not going to something major. I have an old oak swing that has weathered. What is the best thing to put on it to make it look new again? I don't want to paint it, I like it natural looking. I've used a bleach & water mixer before on my deck then put Thomason Weather seal on it, would that work? Yesterday I noticed a small hole in the siding on my house. Yes, I'm sure my dear son did that, he manages to do things like that without telling me. Do I have to replace the entire piece of siding or can I do something else? The hole is a bit bigger than the size of your thumb. If I just leave it will I have insects getting in there? I know I couldn't handle that. If a snake crawled up in there I'd have to move. Thanks for your help. Lisa

Has anyone used 1 x 6 cedar fence boards as the table surface for an outdoor patio table? I am looking for inexpensive wood for a patio table. I saw an all cedar patio table plan on the web that used 1 x 6's but am not too sure if they were fence boards. Fence boards are cut and sawn kind of rough, so I would obviously have to look for the best boards and sand them down smooth. They fit the bill as being inexpensive, that's for sure. Table would be no bigger than 36" x 36". What type of finish or oil should I put on to make it food safe?

Debby, where do you live that the city is requiring a depth of 30 inches. That is quite excessive. I have built homes that required less. How high is the deck going to be off the ground? Is the existing concrete slab stable? If you give me some more details we can figure this one out pretty easily I think. Rob

Thanks for the info so far. I neglected to mention that I am using 12x12 ceramic tiles and had planned on using a 1/4 x 1/4 notched trowel. I can lay out the room so that the centers of the tiles are directly over the "Hardibacker hump-joint". If I use a 3/16 notch and wait 2-3 days before grouting, will that be long enough for the added thickness of thinset to dry? Thanks again, Stuart in NC

I'm hoping some of you experts can help with this problem. I have concrete stairs that are deteriorating, and I want to put up a deck. The stairs are on a huge concrete patio that's been there forever - very thick and strong. Now here's the problem. The town requires that I sink the posts 30 inches down through the concrete. Is there a way to do that without ripping up the entire patio? Debby P.S. I also note that my psycho neighbor built his deck and has the posts sitting ON little bits of wood which are on dirt. I asked about that, but apparently this guy can flout all the building codes ever invented. He's related to the mayor!

if it's CANVAS, I'd use the fabric glue to hold the velcro in place while you SEW it. Hand sewing, with a heavy coat thread, if you don't have a heavy duty machine . . . Maribeth

We had a major wind storm yesterday..gusts of up to 60 mph for 4 hours. I had 2 sections of fence blow out. I also have one of those tent topped, iron decorative patio covers that has a few problem now. Basically the Velcro was torn from the tent top. To get a new one made at a tent and awning place would cost $900.00. I only paid $300 for the one I have. My question is this......is there a fabric glue that is strong enough to hold Velcro to canvas and be impervious to weather? Joan

My husband and I are in our late twenties and in prime farming country here in Small Town, Iowa. Most of our closest friends are farmers, not because it is profitable, but because it is their life. Because their fathers and grandfathers farmed that land. Also, if it were not for these farmers, my husband who is employed by John Deere (factory: making the farm machinery ...NOT at an implement selling it) along with thousands of others around the midwest would be out of a job if it was so common for farmers to "sell out" to the highest bidder. Anyone who comes around these here parts spewing that kind of language about farmers being sell outs is speaking fightin' words. Just my 2 cents. Kati Running through corn stalks and tipping cows here in Iowa

What's the best way to clean out gutters? I also have PVC piping that takes it out to the street but dirt's started to creep in, and I'd like to flush it out -- any recommendations? Thanks, Marc

Very well said Trinity!! Lisa

Hi folks, I have been reading most of the messages recently, but haven't posted in awhile. I have a new question. I am trying my hand for the first time at laying tile in one of my small bathrooms. I have already pulled up the old vinyl, added a few extra screws, sanded the underlayment, applied the thinset and screwed down the hardibacker. I left a 3/16 gap at the hardibacker joints, and then filled the gaps with thinset, and applied the hardibacker tape with another layer of thinset. My problem: This has left me with a high 1/16th or so ridge along one of the joints. When I test a piece of tile over it, it of course rocks back and forth. My question: Can I apply the thinset a little thicker on either side of the ridge and "ease out the hump" over several tiles, and will the added thickness of thinset be strong enough to hold the spacing between the hardibacker and the tiles over time? Thanks, Stuart in NC

howdy folks i just thought id say wassup to anyone in the greater pheonix area. ill be moving there in september and id like to meet some people off this list so i have some friends out there (going for school dont know anyone) so send a shout if your in the area :-)

Thank you for your replies. Sanitas might be a German expression - forgot. It is vinyl wallpaper. One wall I might have to replace- it is facing north-east and that direction a hurricane usually takes on Long Island. Thank you Kathrin, for pointing out the importance of paper on sheetrock. Lucie

Hi folks! I just joined the group and had my own question about door warpage. My house is a small cottage built in 1927 with almost everything original except the paint. I've recently begun some projects to update things: replacing the knob & tube electrical, the brittle plaster in favor of sheetrock, and the blown-in insulation in favor of something that actually insulates. I noticed while working on my den (2nd bedroom) that the door is warped. A little checking shows the frame is plumb & square, and removing the door for painting verified it IS the door that's warped. The curve is more pronounced at the top of the door, about 1" off centerline. The bottom is only about 1/8" off, both in the same direction. I'd really like to keep the original doors (mainly because new ones like it are REALLY expensive). Does anyone have any tips on how to straighten them? Thanks! Rob ps. I only have basic power tools (circular, drill, jigsaw, sawzall, & router), so depending on how complicated the solution is, I might just end up living with them until I win the lottery. ;)

We recently installed a new pre hung fiberglass exterior door. The frame is plumb, the door is plumb but the door is bowing out on the top. This problem is only happening on the side that the lockset is. The lower part of the door is flush against the frame. Any input on how to fix this would be appreciated. Thanks Peggy

Need advise. Removed old sanitas and it removed some of the sheetrock paper itself over quite a few areas. What does it mean to skimcoat? Is it applying paste thinly over the whole wall? Can it be applied with a roller? Thank you. Lucie

How do you get an IP address? I've never heard of this but I'd love to know where some of my junk mail comes from. I have AOL which does have spam control but I've often wondered where these people get my name. Thanks for any information you can share with me. Lisa

One way they get your e-mail address is when you post a message on a group like this one. Rob

If you or your wife like to do crafts, you could purchase a light fixture with clear glass. You can paint the glass or even make it look like it is a tiffany style glass. They sell all the material you need in craft stores. You can buy different colors of paint, strips of "lead", and books to tell you how to do your project with patterns. There are also many patterns on the internet. If you search for stain glass patterns you can use those although this is an imitation of stain glass the results are beautiful. If you are very creative you can make your own design or if you like just paint the glass all one color. They also sell spray on paint for glass, I'm not sure how many colors they have but that is another opinion. Hope this helps, Lisa

Hi all, My wife have been searching for a foyer ceiling light for nearly 3 years now. Our house is very much Mission style, so we'd like to keep with that theme for this fixture. The problem is, however, that most mission-style lights have amber-frosted glass which really decreases the amount of light given off by the fixture. Our foyer is painted a deep wine color, so we want a ceiling fixture that can give off an appreciable amount of light. Does anyone have any suggestions or provide examples of what you may have used? Thanks, Shane

I installed some new kitchen counter tops and now need to trim up the glued on laminate ends. Can anyone recommend the proper way to trim up the edges. I understand I can use a laminate trimmer (don't have one), a router (don't have one), possibly a dremel tool (got one). I appreciate any help. Thank you, Catphish

well folks seeing as there is a recent influx of spam i thought i might plant a few seeds. Hopefully someone will have the resources to actually do somthing. The fact of the matter is most of the spam comes from only a few sources. All of which have static IP addresses, or at least can be tracked to a static IP address (for those of you who dont know what an IP address its basically a street adress only its on the internet and its all numbers) So lets find out where this stuff is comming from. Wouldnt it be great to find out their street address and dump a dumptruck full of junkmail on their doorstep? Folks lets take back our E-comunity and bring it back to what it was susposed to be, a network of people sharing ideas and learning from one another. not maximizing profits with 0% down and the promize of making zillions. Lets start spreading the idea. Bring back the internet to what it was susposed to be... The information super highway. not the information super mega mall...

Hello all, I am asking for some help here. At a garage sale yesterday, I bought a Black & Decker Router. Ex wife (soon to be) was selling tools from garage and I bought it for $2.oo. No bits with it but I can handle that part. My questions are, what are some tips to using this tool for 1st time. I have lots of scrap wood to practice with luckily. As I think I am going to use a couple bits, should I buy the combo packs or invest in a couple quality bits? Appreciate and a ll hints, tips and suggestions on how to make my router time more enjoyable. Thanks, Lisa

I have had no access to the group - so I have a new "handle". Looking forward to seeing what the group has been doing.

If there are any old sale electricians on this board, you may have the answer. i am replacing a P3030-2 breaker in a ITE pushmatic panel. the replacement breaker has two metal tabs which keep the breaker from screwing down to the bus bars, the breaker fits otherwise. these tabs are thick but loose. is there a trick to removing them? thanks in advance gerry

Hi there, We are in the process of buying all thats needed to revamp our bathroom, its a liitle out of date now. What I am really confused over is whether we tile floor and walls first or do we place shower sink etc first? We have been given differing opions on this and I just get more and more confused every time. I sure hope someone can help. PLEASE.

In a message dated 4/22/2004 9:28:06 PM Central Daylight Time, Quiltingfriend@... writes: What is the easiest & cheapest way to take down wallpaper? It's been a while since I've removed wallpaper but it seems like I mixed something that I had in the house with warm water. I put it in a spray bottle, wetting down the paper and had very little trouble removing the paper. I know there is only one layer of wallpaper on the wall, thank goodness. Thanks for any advice you may have. I just buy DIF, but you can use fabric softener and water. I think DIF works better. I usually use a little round tool that has little teeth that pokes holes in the paper (Tiger Paw I think its called) If your wall was sized or primed before the paper was hung, you're in good shape. If it wasn't then you have a job ahead of you. I just finished my kitchen. Sidney

Everyone has heard of the "7 great wonders of the world", I have made up my own list over the years, the 7 great wonders of the construction world. I am curious as to what you might have on your list. My list is: 1. Milwaukee Sawzall 2. WD-40 3. Duct tape 4. Cordless drill 5. Airless paint sprayer 6. Porter-Cable left bladed circular saw 7. laser What would you put on your list, and for your particluar trade or interest? Michael

I did forget about my cell phone, I think just about everyone has one these days. If you don't you should really get one. I've used mine for many emergencies especially with the kids. Another question for everyone - Are all your tools in one place in your home? I'm so disorganized, I have tools scattered every where. I don't own a tool box. I try to keep them in a storage bin with different trays but it never fails, I work on a project somewhere in the house then leave the tools laying around some where in the room. Plus my 9 year old son loves to take my tools and put them in his room. What is the easiest & cheapest way to take down wallpaper? It's been a while since I've removed wallpaper but it seems like I mixed something that I had in the house with warm water. I put it in a spray bottle, wetting down the paper and had very little trouble removing the paper. I know there is only one layer of wallpaper on the wall, thank goodness. Thanks for any advice you may have. I've been getting ready for my yard sale that I'm having Saturday. After this one I will never have another one again. It is way too much work getting ready for a yard sale than it's worth. My biggest problem is I sell everything too cheap and often give things away especially to children. It will be nice to get the stuff out of the house but next time I think I'll call Goodwill to have them pick up stuff I want to get rid of. Wish me luck, I'll need it. Lisa

cocketiels in the VW bug... each night, i had to haul them into the motels, along with the cat food, bird food, kitty litter box and litter... then, in the morning, i had to haul them back out to the car... ahhhh, the good old days... Know the feeling, Trinity! ... when we moved from Texas to California, we had 7 cats with us! My husband took 3 (in cages, of course) in the moving truck cab with him, and I got the other 4 in the Toyota. We *both* got the "Kitty Chorus" (i.e., "MROOWWRR! MRROWR! WHY are you being so MEAN to me ...I'm gonna throw UP! I HATE you!") all the way there. We also had to schlep cats and cages and litter and food into and out of motels (usually in the dark, as even "pet friendly" motels will generally only officially accept one cat) every day. Hm, sometimes I think of moving back to Texas, but now that I think about it more, maybe we have to wait until old age removes some of our feline contingent from us. Dunno if either one of us could take that trip again! Ann

I have three toolboxes, with an assortment of hand screwdrivers, plyers, wrenches, hammers, studfinder, levels, prybars, sockets, etc. no tin snips yet, but they're the next thing on the list. I LOVE my cordless drill, it's a craftsman. I buy Sears most of the time, because the nice men at the counter help me out a lot. I also really love my staple gun. My favorite, though not often used, as a very good 30 foot snake. Worth every penny I spent on it. I like my staple gun, too . . . This year I got a circular saw, which I ALSO love. And my staple gun converts to a (brad) nail gun, did I mention that? If I could bury something . . . um, I don't have a single tool that I want to live without. If I hate something, I get rid of it. I guess the thing I want, and am NOT planning on getting any time soon, is a jigsaw. Maribeth not bad for a single gal, huh?

1. What tools do all you intrepid DIYers use to keep house and hearth intact? (No huge list of screwdrivers and hammers, just the good stuff) 2. Of the tools you have, which is your favorite? 3. Which would you just as soon bury and what would you replace it with if you could choose anything? 4. And which tool that you don't have do you need/want most? For me: 1. Tablesaw, Japanese handsaw (dozuki), Sawzall, circular saw, oxyacetylene welder, a couple of drills, some sanders, a lathe and a drill press. 2. My left-blade 7-1/4" circular saw. 3. I'd bury two tools: the tablesaw and the lathe. I'd replace the tablesaw with a Powermatic 66, and the lathe with a Oneway 2436. 4. A panel saw, for cutting plywood easier. -- --jmowreader

I carried a 55-gallon aquarium in that Volkswagen. It will fit in the back seat. Barely. -- --jmowreader

I don't have any tools in my car except whatever came with the car to change the tire. I don't even know how to do that. I could probably change a tire on a regular car but you have to do something different with my car. If I ever find the owners manual I need to read up on that. Now if you want a hot wheels car or other toy to play with, my car has it. In my house I have a tool kit someone bought me that came with a cordless drill. However it seems like every time I need some kind of tool I find it isn't in the tool kit. Slowly I'm adding more tools to my collection. It's crazy how many tools a person needs. It seems like everything I do requires a different type of tool. I thought about asking for tools for Christmas. Never dreamed I'd be asking for something like that! First I need to learn all the names of the tools, if someone ask me to hand them a tool they need to tell me what color handle it has and what it looks like. I do much more about tools than I did several years ago. I guess I failed this challenge. I do have a first aide kit in my car does that count for anything? Lisa

I carry a gallon of water, some band aids, a wool blanket, and 3 mre's. Maribeth

Thanks for the input Lisa and Jim. I'll be checking the generic brand products for shelving as well as the name brands. I know pre- planning is the key to success and saving money. Christy

Y'all are just fabulous! I just love this list! I would never have thought of BONDO!!!! THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE SUGGESTION I won't get to this project for a couple of weeks. I've about finished my cabinets (I'm the one who was looking for Red Devil stain/polyurethane finish and y'all pointed me to MinWax. That's why I found this list to start with) Well the cabinets look FABULOUS, if I do say so myself. This weekend I'm painting the den. So it may be next weekend before I can get the door down and stripped and then do the bondo and paint! Someday I'll have a weekend without a project! Sidney

this looks axactly like the asbestos shingles of the 50's etc and is a good replacement for any broken or cracked ones that you may have. Its tough and durable and keeps the weather out. But right now its out of fashion and the vynl is whats selling. Maybe in the future it will be popular again.

Ok, here's the problem. Last year I had the outside of the house painted (trim etc. on a brick house) Our front door is a metal coated door that has some sort of a core to it (I hope that makes sense) We have had it for 14 years and we've been painting it every year or two. The paint was beginning to "alligator" crack and chip. So I wanted our painters to strip it and repaint it. Well, it was the end of the job and they had little interest in this project. The guy put the stripper on and didn't let it set long enough so then he decided he'd just "armstrong" it as my daddy would have said, and gouge and pry the paint off. He succeeded in making a lovely dent in the door before he decided to stop straping and just paint, even tho' the paint wasn't off. So now I have a door where the paint is still alligatored, where it is chipping off in parts and has a lovely dent. Is there anything I can do to remove the dent. I bought some of the stripper that was discussed on this list early this spring and I'm going to strip it myself as I couldn't do any worse than has been done. But this dent really bothers me. It's just a bit bigger than the size of the diameter of a golf ball. Sort of a big lemon size. I had a glass storm door put up last year to help protect it from the sun etc, once I got it redone but of course the "redo" wasn't much of a redo! I guess I could get a new door, but I just really hate to do that! Thanks once again for any suggestions, Sidney

That's their response to any idea they haven't tested out themselves. I don't blame them - if they recommend using a product in a way they haven't completely tested they might get sued. I installed some hardi-backer on my kitchen walls to put tile up. My walls are brick with a plaster skim coat - so I called and asked if I could attach the hardibacker directly to the wall with concrete screws. The man's response was "That should work, but the only way I can recommend is to use our special screws into wood". If you use it in your bathroom don't expect any warranty on it. Just like I can't expect any warranty on my hardibacker since I used a different installation method. Do I lose sleep over it? Nah. Scott in DC

I have an ongoing problem that maybe someone could help with. I had to replace my above ground well pump, the one that pulls the water from the tank, and into the house. Since that time, I have very little cold water pressure. Any suggestions? Thanks! Bett

In my garage I used a variety of products. I did get the wire shelving from Home Depot, it wasn't a name brand shelving because after looking at all of them I realized they were pretty much the same. I purchased a couple of heavy duty metal shelves, don't purchase the cheap ones they will not hold weight. A thing you hang on the wall to put your hoes, racks and other things on. Also I had to get a bike rack. You may want to purchase a shelving unit that has doors on it. The best thing to do is look at what your going to be putting into your garage. Draw out your own plan. You will find if it will cost you so much more if you go with name brand garage organizers when they do make the same organizers that just don't have the name brand on them. There are some web sites that will help you design your garage. I believe one of the name brand garage organizers site will let you design your garage online, of course it is using all their products. If I locate the site again, I'll pass it on to you. I believe if you go to Home Depots web site you can get them to send you a coupon for 10% off if you've just moved into a new house. That helps with the cost. Good luck. Lisa

Hi! I'm new to the forum, and recently (Christmas) put laminate flooring all through my house. I chose laminate because I use a power wheelchair and also have 4 service dogs, so a tough floor is very important to me. The one mistake I made is in not getting the thickest, best underlayment possible. Since laminate is a floating floor, hollow, the noise level is very high. The TV echoes and sometimes it's hard to hear words, due to the echo. Anyone walking across the floor makes a loud hollow sound, like a dull drum being whapped. If I could redo it, I'd put in the highest quality underlayment, one similar to "Quietwalk" pads at 16 pounds per 100 square foot roll, which runs about $65 a roll per single roll, and about $45 per 11 rolls. I would not use the thin foam pad I did choose to have put in, at 1 pound per 100 square feet. It was the biggest mistake ever, and the noise drives us nuts, even though we have several large area rugs to help reduce the sound. The Quietwalk underlayment, for example, is designed to draw sound into the felt based pad and deaden it, not reflect it. Quietwalk's filaments are randomly air laid creating a capillary affect to cushion the floor, absorb sound and can wick water and disperse it throughout the pad until it can evaporate or escape through the subfloor. It contains a built in vapor barrier to protect laminate from harmful moisture. Quietwalk can absorb over 5 times it's own weight in water without swelling or deterioration while the vapor barrier keeps water away from your floor. Quietwalk works great over both wood and concrete. I should have made this choice, but chose economy. Big, big mistake. Good luck! Other than the sound, I love the laminate flooring. It's tough, resiliant, looks very good and is wearing beautifully. Debi Davis Las Vegas, NV

A little useless spam: ClosetMaid sells a Closet Planner Kit for about three dollars. This is supposedly more helpful than the little free sheet we pass out to help you design ClosetMaid shelving systems. One thing I can tell you about ClosetMaid: it is hell to cut the stuff. You need a bolt cutter or some other kind of serious metal cutting tool to do it--tin snips won't cut it. A hacksaw will. -- --jmowreader

I have a sliding door which is situated in our kitchen connected to our outside deck. The aluminum protection on bottom frame of the door on the outside has warped and ice/snow got in and rotted the wood on the inside. Now there is a hole in the door. I never heard of this happening and I am not sure if it can be fixed or does it have to be replaced. Does anybody have any ideas or do I need to supply anymore information? Thanks, Steve

How do I fix cracks in my leather couch? What method and product should I use so the repair doesn't stick out and the color matches? Don't really want to send it out to be repaired. There are 2 cracks in the armrest and one in the seat. I was hoping to keep the couch for about 4 more years till the kids get out......out on there own i should say...lol. This seat is the one all my boys want to sit in, so it would have to be durable too. Thanks, Peggy

Hi everyone, I'm new to this message board. I have read some of the archives and have found it very interesting and informative. We just put down 18" tiles on our basement bathroom floor. The problem is, I think we took out too much of the grout as we have a pretty deep groove between them now. I am also not really happy with the color. It came out much lighter than I thought it would. My question: Can you stain grout? Or even better, can you apply a new layer of grout over the existing layer to bring the level higher? Thanks for any information you can offer. Joan

Anybody have suggestions on the best underlayments to use for laminate flooring? I'm laying on top of wood and concrete. Thanks.

Thanks for the info on the toilet problem. I am going to the hardware store tomorrow to see if they have the insulation. Over the weekend I got a very old filing cabinet that needs some restoration. I know I need to sand the rust down before I prime it, but do I need to prime the entire cabinet before painting or just the areas where it is rusty? I got Rust Curb spray paint in primer gray and Colonial white for this project, the cabinet is currently a gun metal gray color. Will that dark gray show through if I don't prime the entire cabinet? Laura in OK

My toilet is making an extremely loud noise when flushed. It has a plastic fill valve. Don't know the make but the top part where the water comes in is bright yellow. The problem seems to be related to the water coming in. As soon as flushed and the water begins to flow in the noise starts. Water seems to come intermetently. If I lift the tank ball and let it drop again once or twice then the water starts to come in at a slightly faster rate and the noise stops. I'm hoping all that is required is a minor adjustment. Any suggestions? Thanks Suspiro

Laura Schimmel originally sent: Uhh...the nature of toilets is to do this. The only way to solve the problem without pumping hot water into your toilet is to get rid of the humidity in the air--the central air comment was spot on, because central air pulls moisture from the air. I'd try a dehumidifier. -- --jmowreader

I have a sliding door which is situated in our kitchen connected to our outside deck. The aluminum protection on bottom frame of the door on the outside has warped and ice/snow got in and rotted the wood on the inside. Can anybody help on a solution to fix this problem without having to get a new door? Thanks, Steve

Hi all! anyone ever tried painting on a particleboard? I have a cabinet made of it and wanted a wood like finish. cheers RV

I am guessing Thermal expansion. It makes sense now that you said that, noisy in the back in the morning and evening its up front near family area. Thanks for the help. I still will get up there next weekend, Husband may be asked to do it as I hadn't consider vermin, Those animals would make more of a scurrying noise though wouldn't they. I hate walking down the hallway to the rear of the home now, keep wondering what or who is going to stick their head down from the attic entryway. LOL Thanks, Lisa I want to say thanks for all the great info I have gathered here. The house is being painted in June, proper prep is in the contract, exact paint brand, grade and manufacture also. I have decided that instead of wasting more water on the front yard, I can widen my walkway, enlarge my flowers and shrub and live with the water restrictions they have put us on here in Denver.

As I look at my original post and the replies to it I see where I gave a completely wrong impression of what I was working with. I do not have screens in frames. The sides of my patio is built like a regular 2 x 4 studded wall without the covering inside or out. I will be stapling the screening directly to the studs. I would appreciate help on getting a nice tight installation over the 10 feet from just under the eaves to the ground. Sorry for the misguided original.

OK I know this will lead to some corney remarks but my toilet tank has been 'sweating' for several months now. It started because of condensation from the bathroom heating stove being too close, but it has been almost two months since we used the stove and it is still sweating. When it is very humid here it is so bad that it soaks my floor. Most days you don't notice it unless you touch the tank. Is there any way to stop this? My mil says it is because I don't have central heat & air, but I have lived in several houses without it and not had this problem before. Laura in OK

you've got me a litte confused on what you are trying to explain

Heres the thing. wood is an insulator and you want to put that between you and the heat. The heat coming up will dry out the wood and cause it to shrink. I've seen heated floors with carpeting, tile and paint, but not wood (i could be wrong about this but thats my opinion.) carpeting you have to watch because these installers will put in nails for the tackless strips if you are not careful.

BlankIs there any kind of DIY lacquer finish (or any kind of protective finish) that can be applied to polished brass to make it keep its shine? I am going to be installing a mosaic in our floor, and I thought that a brass strip in between the mosaic and the wood part of our floor would look nice. I found some strips of brass at a junk yard that are the perfect size, but then I realized that I don't want to be on my knees constantly, polishing this itty-bitty strip of brass after it is set in the floor. So is there something I can apply to the brass to keep it shiny? (The brass right now is not polished, and does not seem to have any kind of finish on it.) Thanks in advance! Ann

I have a computer desk that has the veneer wood. I was thinking of painting it to change the look. What kind of paint should I use? Also is there any prep work I need to do? It does have a few places that I need to repair, I was planning to try wood putty. I tried to stain it but the stain wouldn't work at all so I'm figuring you can't stain veneer wood. I don't like veneer wood, I'm hoping by painting it the desk will not look like it's made of veneer wood. Thanks for your help. Lisa

I an installing flooring. I have radiant floor heat in gypcreet. Water in rubber tubes in c concrete type stuff. First has any one ever just painted the floor and that is it. Second what kind of laminate and people favoring to me the choices seem endless? New topic on a stair landing how does the top skirt board meet the trim and then that trim meet the second shirt board My stairs may a 90 degree turn and there is a landing at the turn. How does all that skirt board and base board blend together. The trim is 4 1/2 inches in the room. Chris

Hi there, I install the wood floor (laminated wood floor (sp? )) on ourbedrooms last year and this is what I think. It would make little noise and you don't hear it unless it is very quiet (at night). You are suggested to put the wood floor right on top the vinal, so the vinal works at the padding that absort noise ... I put mine on concrete, so I have to put a layer of foam (1/8 inch thick, sold at the home improvement store also) to absort the noise, it is $.50 per square feet (if I remember it right). No, it is the weight of the material itself. Very heavy, :) and you don't cut it very precisely because you want to leave 1/4 inch for the wood floor to breath (?) What I did is I take out the foot base around the room, after I had done with the floor, I replaced with the new foot base. It looks nicer than the quarter base. I think the pieces that you mention above is metal. If you want, you can buy what they called the T or the L that goes between your wood floor and your other floor. It matches the color of you wood floor (rather than silver color of the metal). At the store, they may have classes to teach you how to install the wood floor. You need the material, the saw (sp?) to cut the material, and the installation kit. It took 3 of us 2 days to install 3 rooms of about 500 square feet. Very fun to do it. It took a lot more time to move the funnitures and clean up before doing it. Good luck on your project. Hope that helps. tnn

I haven't been up there, although I have tackled any home improvemnent project put to me, I am not a person who likes closed spaces. I haven't really noticed that it vreeks more if its sunny or not. Today, sunny and 75 plus a bit windy , its creaking all over. Hope I don't have to get up there. If I do, please look online after 7 pm MST, after husband goes to work I will see what's there. I love him dearly except he gets underfoot when I am in the middle of some project. I get alot of projects done after he goes to work so I have been painting my rooms at midnight and such. Lisa

Can you use a roller to paint a "popcorn" textured ceiling? My ceiling needs painting, the contractor didn't do a good job when painting it because I can see the rafters (or whatever they are called) in my den, it's a cathedral ceiling. I did buy some of that stray paint that you use for my ceiling because I patched some holes. It works great but by all means if you use it follow the directions, which I didn't. I had little white specks of paint all over me. Thanks for your help. Lisa

I have a strange noises coming from my attic and hope someone could help me figure it out. We bought this house 2 years ago and every once in a while, I hear this noise that sounds like cracking, coming from our attic. It happens all over the house, in every room I have noticed it. Could it be settling? The home was built 60 years ago. I cannot think of anything that is different on this house from any other we have owned. Does anyone have any suggestions to what be the source and should I be worried? Thanks in advance for any and all hints, tips and suggestions. Lisa

What I would do is to make a "form within a form." You're going to pour this sort of a stairway one step at a time. Start at the bottom, of course, and make an outer form the size of the whole step, all the way back to the house. Put some oil on the wood so you can rip off the form when you're done. The next thing to do is to measure from front to back and from side to side. Take those two numbers, subtract 20 inches from the front-back measure and 8 inches from the side-side measure, and build a box that size from pressure-treated lumber. It needs no top or bottom, just sides. Set it in the outer form four inches from the back and four from each side. Then pour concrete between these forms. When it dries, fill the inner box with dirt, rocks, your neighbor's kid's drum...the intent here is to reduce the amount of concrete you need because cheap fill is cheap and good concrete is not. Then build another set of forms just like the first and keep pouring stairs until you've got enough stairs. Give it a week or so before you pull the form off--a month is better if you can keep peace in the family. -- --jmowreader

Samantha, What type of wood are the closet doors made out of? Couldn't you just strip the paint? I did see on one the programs on HGTV where they painted the wall a medium brown then used some type of tool that made it look like paneling. I'm sure they sell the tool at all hardware stores. I think the program was Designing on a Dime, but not real sure. Hope this helps, Lisa

Hello everyone, I have noticed water drips running down the side of my electric water heater the past couple of weeks or so. They seem to originate from behind the top side plate and run down the tank. A couple of days ago, I noticed orange rusty sediment also traveling down the side of the tank. Yesterday, I was in the house and all of the sudden it started smelling like burnt plastic. I opened a few windows and finally determined that it was coming from the water heater. I shut off the circuit breaker for the heater. My question is this. Does it sound like it just needs to be flushed and maybe an element replacement from being burnt out, or do I need to have it replaced completely? Thanks in advance for any input you may have. Zandra

Drywall - I've learned that now. But now that the light is up it was worth all that mess. I have been putting up my son's new blinds this evening, one box was missing screws. Luckily I had some that worked. I guess it pays to check all the hardware before getting into a project. You would think for the amount of money you pay for some of these things that they would be right. I've got 1 more light to put up for now. Although I need to replace my bathroom lights, they will have to wait. Next project will be stripping wallpaper then painting. Thank goodness it isn't to much wallpaper to take down plus there is only one layer of wallpaper. Don't you hate it when people put up wallpaper over wallpaper. Makes it a pain when you what to remove the paper. Question for future reference, can you roll paint on a "popcorn" textured ceiling? My ceiling really needs to be painted, the contractor didn't do a very good job. Oh yeah, the paint on my front steps came off a little with the paint remover. I guess I'll get the stuff they sell in by the gallon. I wonder if it works on concrete also, my son has gotten paint on my garage floor. If it wasn't for the kids I might have time to do other things in life besides fixing the damage they do to the house. Lisa

We have the closet doors that are old dark brown wood and have the shutters on them. I am wanting to redo them and make them look like a natural wood. Please help!!!!! :) Thanks, Samantha

bought a tube, painted it on my hinge (just one) let it dry and buffed and it all buffed off. Tried it again, left it on longer, buffed and it all came off. What am I doing wrong? Can I paint it on and just leave it??? It goes on black and when I buff it comes off. Now it doesn't come off my hands, not even with mineral spirits, but it comes off the metal hinges. Sidney

How can you hang something on I guess what you call aluminum siding on the outside of your house? Can you drill through the siding without messing it up? After my last trip to the hardware store my light fixture is successfully up and working! One project down, many to go. Thanks for everyone's input. Lisa

I am planning to make a small outdoor patio table, 36 x 36 in. with a tile top and ext. grade plywood base. It will have a pedestal type leg down the middle with splayed out feet at the bottom. (ie a centre suppported table, versus legs at the four corners of the table) The splayed out feet and table supports will be 2x4 material on edge in a cross shape. Would it be better to have 2x4's terminate at the corners of the table or on the straight egdges of the table? Which would give better support? How about on the floor, should they be the same as the table support or rotated 45 degrees so the legs are squared with the table. Rotated 45 degrees: -------- I I I x I I I -------- OR in a cross shape: -------- I I I + I I I --------

I'm replacing the fibreglass screening on my covered, screened in patio with metal. Dive-bombing birds have made shreds of the fibreglass. The panels are about 10 feet long from top to ground level. Any good hints for getting a nice tight, smooth installation? I'm planning on using staples into the edges of 2x4 studs set on 24" centers. Any help would be appreciated. resawd

Turning it around would not be to difficult, but I would just add an outlet. You can get a plastic add-a-box that is made for remodel work. Turn off the breaker. Cut out for the new outlet in the closet in the same stud bay as the existing outlet then feed the wire threw. Tie it in at the existing outlet and put in the new one. Then again if what you are after is a light I would add a light in the ceiling if you have attic access. Robert

I am so mad I could scream. The light fixture I purchased is made by Kichler, which I thought made good products. I went to the hardware store purchased the correct screws. So finally I have the base up, I put in light bulbs, turned the breaker back on and it works! But when I went to put the glass globe on I found that the threaded pipe they sent with the fixture is only 3" long, the globe is 5" deep. Now I need to make another hardware store run for the correct threaded pipe. I wrote the company about this. I live in a small town outside of Greensboro, Julian which isn't on many maps it's so small. It takes me at least 25 minutes to get the hardware store. On the light for my son's closet, I think I will just give him one of my battery operated lights. I purchased several after we lost power for over 6 days last winter. One is wonderful, lights up the entire room. Sorry to vent but this light fixture has been a pain when it shouldn't have been. So good rule I've learned is to try out all the hardware before making any trips to the hardware store. Maybe my experience will help out someone else to make sure they have everything they need so they will not have to make so many trips to the hardware store. Lisa

I am getting ready to sell my house. The garage door needs a coat of paint, but the old paint needs to be taken off first. Having just pressure washed my deck and found the result amazing, I thought I would ask if the pressure washer could be used to take the old paint off of the garage door. Pressure washer is 1300 psi. Thanks, Steve

you wrote:My son wants a light in his closet, his closet is big enough for him to play in and it is dark. Answer: wouldn't a battery operated light or a lamp do the trick? It sounds like a fad he's going through and will only last a short while. Maybe it would be a good idea to buy a GFI outlet for that particular spot (costs around 8 dollars)then plug in a lamp. At least the kid won't electrocue himself fooling around with the plug on a lamp.

In a message dated 4/15/2004 11:55:09 AM Central Daylight Time, marco@... writes: Any suggestions for painting straight edges, like where the wall meets a door jamb? Taping off just doesn't seem to be enough. there's a little doohickey pad thing that has wheels on it that you can run up and down beside the door or ceiling or baseboard. I still tape but it helps. Sidney

So... I'm getting ready to put sprinklers in before I sod... any recommended brands/types -- I've heard lots of bad experiences with sprinkler heads. Thanks! Marc

I just got these suggestions in a newsletter, I thought I would pass them on. Before pouring paint from a can, cover the rim with masking tape. After pouring, remove the tape -- the rim will be clean and the cover will fit tightly. Rub petroleum jelly on the hinges and door knobs before you start to paint a door. If you get paint on them, they will wipe right off I sure wish I would have know the petroleum jelly trick years ago. Personally I think the biggest part of painting is preparing to paint. Use masking tape around windows or whatever area you are not painting or want paint to get on. Be sure to protect your floor. Patch any holes in your walls. I always do the trim work first then the rolling part goes much faster. Don't forget to wear old clothes, I always get paint on my clothes and in my hair. Hope this helps. Welcome to the group! Lisa

In a message dated 4/15/2004 7:01:59 AM Central Daylight Time, griggs@... writes: Would anyone be able to share any tips or hints to make the process easier? Buy good paint, and good rollers and good brushes. It really does matter. Sidney

Hi! It's great to find a group like this... My husband and I are doing a whole-house remodel, and to save money, we've agreed to paint the interior walls ourselves (hey, my parents always painted their walls). I know it will take some time and effort, but it sure will save some $$$$$. I've never tried doing it myself, though. Would anyone be able to share any tips or hints to make the process easier? Thanks so very much! Marie

for all the advise on the "Tree of Heaven". According to the almanac this weekend is when you destroy pest and weeds so we will be getting started on the chemical treatments. Tomorrow three more of the large parent trees are coming down, leaving us with eight more to go. I can't believe that there were 15 well established on this property! Apparently all the previous owners would rather have the shade and deal with off shoots, than have a nice yard were they can go barefoot. Everyone keep your fingers crossed, last time we cut down any of these, hubby learned he is not Paul Bunyun and took out the phone line, we have the electric company scheduled to come let down their lines, and are supposed to call the phone repairman to let down the phone line this time. I am worried about the location of the trees to the gas meter, but when the meter reader was here he said that there was really nothing we could do short of hiring someone else to come in and cut them down. Laura in OK

Me again. I am currently getting estimates to have someone put in a Bruce Hardwood floor (Natural Reflections is the name of the product) I have that in my entrance hall and hallway. Here's my question. The first installer came today and he says that the planks need to run the same way as the floor joists. My husband thinks that it would look better to run it in the same direction as the hallway that ends into the kitchen so the planks from the hall would simply flow into the kitchen. The joists, according to this guy, don't run that way. Now it doesn't make a big difference to me, as I can see good and bad from asthetic point of view. So do the joists control the direction? The floor is currently covered in Armstrong Solarium linoleum and the flooring below that is plywood. The house is 14 years old. Thanks, yet again, Sidney

The best way to do a kitchen is to throw everything away,,including the walls and ceiling (save your stove and refrigerator though ,your gonna need them)Yaeh,, the best way to plan a new one is to stare at an empty hole.

I don't think I should have touched anything today. I couldn't find any screws that will work with my light fixture so tomorrow I'll be at home depot. My father looked at it also & agreed with me on the screw situation. I did patch the holes in the ceiling much to my surprise that went well. By tomorrow morning you will never know they were there! I have a single folding door that goes into my laundry room which has been down for a while. Some parts feel off, I must have sweep them up and dumped them in the trash. So I purchased the parts I need, one thing I need to replace the top wheel but can't get the thing off the door. I've given up at this point. Maybe tomorrow will look better. I do know one thing, I need a tool belt. I've wasted more time looking for tools that I've set down or dropped on the floor. An extra hand would be great also. I don't have anyone to ask for help, even if I did supply drinks, food or money. Am I alone in having an off day or am I taking on more than I can handle? By the way anyone live around Greensboro NC? Yes, there is a reason I asked that! Thanks for everyones help. If this is more than I can handle - tell me, I'll listen for a change. Lisa

Joke-Of-The-Day from the Humor Network

Getting ready to re-roof the house and we've been looking at different options. One option is "Ondura" roofing. It looks nice and the company offers a "lifetime" warranty on it. Anyone had any experiences with Ondura, positive/negitive?

Samantha, I worked in glass for 15 years, we mostly did commercial buildings. We did put up bronze mirrors up for back splashes which looked nice. You could also go with bronze glass. We even painted the back of glass before. Those opinions are your cheaper way than etched glass. Use 1/4" plate glass for back splash. There are several ways you can the glass mounted. We never did any counter tops, did several dining room tables using 3/4" tempered. You need to cut the breaker off because you never know how the electrician wired your house. If they did it right the light switch would cut off the power but you never know. Better be safe, cut off the breaker. Hope this helps. Lisa

Thanks for the advice but believe me I'm not going anywhere so my kids are safe. I have already replaced one light fixture in the house I just wasn't sure about florescent lights. I didn't want to get it down to discover a million holes in my ceiling. I use to work for an electrician although I'm a bookkeeper I did pick up on a few things. The breaker will be switched off. I did hire an electrician to hang a light over my kitchen table because the thing weighed a ton. I had to be sure there was enough support for the light. This guy didn't bother to flip the breaker off, he just cut the light switch off. I couldn't believe he did that. I'm going to put the light up this afternoon. I will let you know how it goes. I still need to put in my ironing board cabinet, I keep putting that one off. Lisa

I have an old brick home where the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the raters. Do these provide any support? If not, is it easy to rip them out and create a cathedral ceiling. I know there are other issues with moisture, but I was curious about the structural issues.

I've just joined the group. A few years ago, my wife and I bought and restored a 150-year-old farmhouse in West Virginia, about 70 miles from Washington, DC. At the time, we left the kitchen cabinets and other details mostly alone, but it is now time for a floor-to-ceiling renovation, so I expect I'll have a lot of questions. While our design matures and we work through the big questions, I have one small one. A few years ago, we bought some GE brand undercabinet lights to use for task lighting -- the kitchen is pretty dark. These were 2 and 3 bulb units, steel cased, with electronic transformers to deliver the 12 volts to the bulbs. They gave great quantities of nice white light, but unfortunately the electronics failed in a few months, and although GE sent us several sets of replacements, they never managed to solve whatever the design problem was. Recently, the last ones failed, and I've been in the market for a couple of sets of 5 "puck" lights to replace them. Lowe's sells something called Good Earth brand, which look just like the GE's -- I'd be willing to bet they are the same ones, rebranded, perhaps by the original manufacturer. Home Depot, on the other hand, sells only Hampton Bay 120 volt halogens. Thinking this might be a better deal anyway (I'd heard about the radio and TV interference electronic transformers can cause), I bought and installed a set. To my surprise, and even though they had 20 watt G-8 bulbs compared to the 12-watt bulbs in my old GEs, the new ones gave much less light, and of a substantially yellower color. So I took them back. I have found 12-volt puck lamps sold separately, but the magnetic transformer prices are outrageous (both are Seagull brand), and the whole installation would have cost me question. Finally, to the question -- does anyone have a recommendation for puck lights (12v or 120v) that give good, bright, white task-quality lighting, preferably with a magnetic transformer option that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Thanks in advance, Pete Smith Middleway, WV

I just purchased some paint from Home Depot. I got a flat latex paint for the walls. Anything with a gloss with show any imperfections in your walls. They don't highly recommend using a gloss finish on your walls because of this. For trim I'm using a semi-gloss latex. I don't know much about enamel paints. Honestly I've never heard of using enamel on walls. From watching programs on HGTV changing your wall color from white to a darker color I've learned it depends on how dark your going. I've seen where they recommend if going with a dark color to first paint the walls a color that is lighter than the darker color then paint over this with your dark color. I've also seen where they put on the dark color on white walls but had to put several coats of paint on the wall. I'm sure any paint store will be able to tell you what to do regarding preparing the walls for the color you pick out. Good luck, Lisa

Im about to embark on Painting the inside of our home! When should I use a "primer" The new colors will be darker over and existing white wall! Also whats there now appears to be satin latex! Is that a latex enamel? Would a gloss enamel be advised for the window trim? Bear with me im all confused!

I am just full of questions. The next stage of the kitchen redo is taking off the cabinet doors, painting them with polyurethane stain (Min-Wax) changing the handles. I am using a black wrought iron handle and I can't find a black hinge other than the ones that look like what we had in the 60's that go way over on the doors. I like my hinges (they sort of close on their own when the door is about half shut) so I'd like to keep them. But they are a burnished brass. I think they'd look better black. Can I spray paint them with something like rustoleum or another type of paint spray made to go on metal? Sidney

I have one of those long Florescent light fixture in my kitchen. If I take this down how many holes would be in the ceiling? I want to replace the light with a regular light. I'm guessing I could hook up a regular light, they don't do anything different in the wiring when it is a florescent light do they? Also if there are holes that I will need to cover up how would I do this? My ceiling is I guess what you call textured, I don't know what you call it but you see it in most houses. The kind that dust loves to stick to. I'm going to vent for a minute, my dear son had a friend over today, they tore up his blinds, put a small hole in his closet door plus many marks on the wall. I guess that's what I get for putting him up a little basketball goal in his room, he broke that today also, it will not be replaced. I was planning on replacing his blinds anyway and have already purchased them. I've been trying to do projects to make my house look better not have to repair junk. I guess with a 9 year old I should expect these things to happen. Oh well, the project list is growing. My son will be busy cleaning up his walls tonight. Lisa

Everyone, I appreciated the info on cleaning solutions for pressure washing a deck. I used Oxyclean this weekend and my new 1300 psi pressure washer ($100) on my 12 x 22 deck.... IT LOOKS FANTASTIC!! I couldn't believe how incredibly clean and new it looks! The wood looks like it was put down yesterday!!! I build a sitting bench last summer out of wood, the deck looks like it was constructed at the same time....but the deck is 16 years old!!! Unbelievable..... So my question, what should I used to seal the deck to help to prevent all this dirt again in the future?

Thanks for the help and insight on my fireplace dilemma. I will go to the store and have them order the special mortar I need if its not in stock. We don't use the fireplace, no glass doors, (huge waste of energy without) and with the remodel I can get it so that its the same width of brick on each side. I have no idea why they built it the way they did but I suspect alcohol was served while they tried to understand how a tape measure works, LOL I am planning in installing a mirror (already cut and here to put on all inside wall of firebox and had candle holder that sits inside. My home is not modern, but I believe the fireplace can be an attractive feature without too much work. Thanks again for the help. I so appreciate the words of encourage and support that member here provide to one another. Those with knowledge are so kind to be gracious and help people like me who want to do a project and are eager to do it the RIGHT