Do it yourself

Hi All, I'm renovating a room and have a basic battle plan, but would appreciate some advice to avoid potential problems. I'll be doing all the labor by myself. In a small bedroom, a previous owner installed parquet flooring half way up the walls. Some of the wood tiles are popping right off, some need prying and are breaking. No sheet rock has come off, only the paper backing. But there's a *lot* of thick, crystallized adhesive left on the walls. What's the best way to remove the adhesive? Planning on using a rigid putty knife to scrape what I can, then sanding. Any tips on reducing the mess would be appreciated. Assuming no sheet rock comes off, what's the best way to resurface the sheet rock? Planning on a coat or two of whatever that sheet rock stuff is called (name escapes me at the moment), sanding between coats. Then prime and paint. Any tips would be great! TIA, Renée -- Those who don't hear the music think the dancer's mad. - Fortune Cookie

Thanks to those of you who read or replied to my message. I got some good ideas. The original post is reproduced below... Hi, I'm going to replace one existing outlet in each circuit with a GFI outlet. Of course, I'll want to replace the first (most upstream) outlet in each circuit so that all downstream outlets will be similarly protected. Short of following the wiring, does anyone know how I can find the first outlet of each circuit? Thanks!

Hi, If you live near Uncertain, TX, (near Karnack or Leigh, TX) would you please write to me offlist - THANKS! Liz

Measure twice, cut once! This is the most basic of all, but I still run into trouble sometimes... -Mike

There appears to be a bit of confusion concerning the operation of GFI receptacles. While they are electronic in nature there is no mystery about how they operate. They are really just a switch that is activated anytime an imbalance occurs in the circuit they are protecting. The electronic wizardry in question is simply a balanced circuit that insures that the currents in the two sides of the line are equal, any difference in the two currents would indicate that another path to ground is being taken as through the soft flesh and bones of an individual. Since the GFI is really a switch it must be the first element in the circuit to be protected. There are also GFI circuit breakers available that go right into the breaker panel, but they cost about twice as much as the GFI receptacles, since they also provide overload protection. Now for a cheap circuit tracer to locate the wiring in a standard residence, this will not work in situations where the wires are contained in metal conduit. Turn off the breaker in question and remove the wire to the circuit to be traced, next, wire a cheap dimmer switch in series by attaching one lead of the switch to the wire just removed and the other to the screw from which the wire was removed. Plug a lamp into the circuit to be tested and turn the dimmer on so that the lamp is dimly lit. Next take a very cheap (a good radio may be too sensitive) but working pocket transistor radio and tune it to a point where there is not a station, and as the radio comes close to the wiring you will hear a loud 60 Hz hum caused by the dimmer. You can trace the path of the romex from the box, along the wall and to each of the receptacles or circuits being fed. In many cases the hum will be less in the legs of the circuit beyond the lamp or (load), since much of the SCR switching current from the dimmer is terminated at the load. Replace the first receptacle with the SCR and check to be certain. Remove the dimmer, replace the wire back on the breaker and safe the dimmer for the next time you want to know where something goes. Dale

I assume that the line is to still be on the same phone # (one line). The colors themselves do not matter. I have seen the phone co. use all sorts of colors to accomplish the same thing. The important thing is which pair to use. Phone jacks of the usual sort have space for two pairs. They are oriented so that one pair is the inner two contacts and the other pair is the outer two contacts out of the four in a row. The usual convention for a single line setup is to use the inner pair. Run any kind of double wire (light duty speaker wire is fine) maintaining the same polarity and the same position (inner pair) to the new jack(s). The polarity will likely be correct. This can be checked with a cheapie little phone line polarity checker from Rascal Shack. Many modern telephones are not fussy about polarity anyway. Good luck! Joe

sorry about all the duplicate posts - having ISP problems ;o) Liz

Hi, How do I clean asbestos shingles, possibly remove flaky paint, without endangering my health? Is there a fast way of washign them? Is it adviseable to put on a primer and then a final coat? Thank you

This is not a touchy-feely list - THIS IS A LIST FOR FACTS - facts that are right/wrong - if someone has posted incorrect information it is EVERYONE'S duty to respond by posting the correct information. If anyone is so delicate that they can't take this, they will not last long anyway. If they still think they're right, they can post their reply and sources ;o) a little dialogue is a great thing! It's also nice if you sign your posts ;o) a GFI HAS TO BE THE FIRST OUTLET ON THE RUN LATEX PAINT WON'T STICK OVER OIL PAINT WITHOUT A COAT OF PRIMER ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS MUST BE MADE TIGHTLY AND CORRECTLY ALL PLUMBING MUST BE VENTED TO WORK PROPERLY any other hard and fast rules?? LOL Liz

Hi, I'm going to replace one existing outlet in each circuit with a GFI outlet. Of course, I'll want to replace the first (most upstream) outlet in each circuit so that all downstream outlets will be similarly protected. Short of following the wiring, does anyone know how I can find the first outlet of each circuit? Thanks!

Hello People, I am new to this room and was hoping that I might get some suggestions on a project. I am having a dormer framed on my cape and will be running Romex cable through the exterior partitions. My question is, if I insulate over the wire, will I lose some "R" value where the fiberglass contacts the wire and compresses? If so, is there any way around this without actually cutting the insulation in half? Thanks in advance for your suggestions Maurice

Hello everone! Can someone direct me to where I might find FREE printable plans or blueprints for a simple barn-styled 12'x12' storage shed? Thank-you! ...MM...

Hello, My name is Ricardo Ferreira and I'm from a TV production company called Atlas Media. We are currently seeking DIY-ers who want to prove their mettle on a fun, fast-paced, brand new reality game show that challenges you to build a historic object in just one weekend. Big DIY prizes for the winning contestant! Applicants must have a partner to work with (friend, family etc), live in the Tri-State Area (New York/Newe Jersey/Connecticut), have a neighbor who also loves DIY, and have their own tools. For more information, email us at BuildTV@...

Our old home has beautiful stained woodwork throughout, but much of it has layers of dust and gook on it that just won't come off by cleaning it. I'm wondering if there's a way I can give the woodwork a "face lift" instead of actually re-finishing it. From afar the woodwork looks just fine, but up close is when you notice that it's pretty dirty looking. Could I sand it with a 320 grit and then apply some sort of wood oil or something? Any ideas on this? I just want to get the rough layer of junk off and have a smooth, clean surface again... Thanks! Shane

OK I have been quiet for a few days, been working on the new (old) mobile home I just purchased. You can't believe what a mess I have got myself into! My honey says let's just discount it and sell it but I say no way! I like the way it is set up, the size and where it is, so I'm keepin it. Ok there are lots of holes in the floors and will have to have plywood put down to cover, that doesn't scare me, the garden tub has fallen through the floor in the master bath and has holes in it, no problem the ceilings are bowed and falling the master bedroom and hall where the water cooler leaked "lots". Had the roof checked out it seems to be sound. Ok and so what if it reeks of cat urine and there was 2 inches of hair in the window slides to vacuum out I can clean it. The problem is (a wise investment it is not) I am told I can sell it for 14 to 18 thousand when it is fixed up but I will have that much in it I am sure. My "Honey" John is putting on the pressure for me to cut a few corners by leaving the sawdust cabinets in the kitchen and bathrooms, and even using the old appliances, I just hate the thought of this..... I have remodeled and redone many homes and the ones I have been pressured into cutting corners like not really getting the counter top I liked or choosing a counter top instead of tile when I really wanted tile. Little things like this I find makes me feel never really satisfied with the end result and dreaming of the kitchen I really wanted in the first place (were talking maybe 4000.00) in price difference give or take a few dollars.) This is going to be my home alone, the place where my grandsons can ride there bikes to visit in a few years, it is 1/4 mile down the street from there home. I have Lupus and my health is not getting better so I am not sure of what the future may be like for me. I have the money now and I may not later to do it again, I want a nice patio and awning put on another 3000.00 but it would be very nice. Do I go for the gusto or save the money and always wonder what it would have looked like later. Your thoughts would be welcome I need help with this decision besides the pressure I am getting from my boyfriend. I admit he is a good investor and has done well with his money but lives like a miser and we never go anywhere seems all we do is work. We have been together 3 years and I am not sure this is how I want the balance of my life to be I will be 50 next July I think I am ready to have my home the way I want it. Am I being selfish and unwise? My new neighbor suggested that I have a drop in stove put in to give more counter space too he has a fit.... were talking a 14 X 66 mobile any counter top space you can get is useful. She says she now wishes she had done it instead of a free standing range. I personally think it is a great idea and appreciate her input. I am sorry this is so long but I read all the mail and thought some of you could truly help me with this decision, unbiased and all. I guess I just think what good is money if you don't enjoy your life a little. Were not talking fancy here were talking do it yourself, home depot kitchen cabinets installed. and new appliances in the kitchen. Also I am trying to decide whether to sheetrock the walls to cover the paneling or just texture over it and paint. What do you think? Terry

Hi y'all...you guys are THE GREATEST!! It's sooo nice being able to throw a question out and get so many different experiences and approaches to the problem to think about before "the attack". Now I'm thinking that I don't have much to lose to experiment in trying the keep the ceilings intact and paint (I'll start with the hallway). Ummmm, a couple of more questions, though...lol Once the ceiling has been successfully painted and the popcorn stuff is still intact, can I assume (a dangerous word) that repainting down the road will not compromise the popcorn effect by destroying the popcorn material? In other words, once the paint has been absorbed and is dried and cured, if I try to paint it three years from now, will I have the same concerns of wetting the popcorn and pulling it down, or will it be cured and paintable? Also, I've been reading about the foam rollers and rolling in one direction, etc. and I was thinking that maybe I could use a sea sponge to paint and get into the grooves in the same manner. Any thoughts on that? (still not ready to tackle this bear without a GOOD plan!!) Thanks soooo much! Kath

Wow Please don't stop the remarks on Asbestos as I have learned something here today. Maybe you could just pick and choose which ones to put in... I have painted many popcorn ceilings as we have apartments with them. It is best to do with a sprayer, but can be done with a roller "slowly" being sure to not get it to wet with paint as all of the posts are true... it will get to wet and roll off in your face... But in my experience it takes quite a bit of paint to cover also. If you have time I would spray it with warm water in small sections and scrape it off. Even if Asbestos were a problem I don't think your exposure is going to be of any significance that you would have to worry. I would wear a mask and safety glasses just to keep the pieces from my face. Terry

What are popcorn ceilings? I'm wondering if that's what we have in our bedroom. It's got a cove ceiling the surface of which is textured and has little sparklies in it. A year or so ago, before we had the house reroofed, a wild rainstorm threw water into our attic and we were left with the a couple of stains the size of a salad plate up there. I don't really know what to do about it, so have done nothing. Even if I paint over just those spots, the newly painted part won't have the sparklies in. I did buy some of that Zinsner (sp?) (instead of Kilz) cover-up stuff, but haven't used it yet. I know it won't have the sparklies in it, but I've no idea what those are or how they got there and certainly no clue as to how to do it myself. Now I'm wondering if I have to be careful of the ceiling collapsing on me when I do paint it. So, again, I'm wondering what popcorn ceilings are. Thanks very much. Jillann in Iowa

yes, and the fact that the WTC's lack of asbestos just cost us 3,000 lives is never going to be mentioned, he got shut down pretty quick when he started talking about . Here's a bit of trivia you probably won't see in the news again: (The Times,18 September, 2001. Mark Henderson, Science Correspondent.) --- "Little asbestos was used in the towers because of the change in New York's health and Safety regulations during the construction. What remained was removed and replaced with synthetic alternative fireproofing considered less effective against temperatures of 1000C that engulfed the towers. According Richard Wilson, Professor of Physics at Harvard University, asbestos insulation would probably have kept the buildings standing for up to four hours allowing crucial extra time for the occupants to escape." And all the costs of removing it from all the schools, etc . . . hope they don't catch fire while your kids are in them. And the stupidity of people, I was just watching a documentary about people who are getting "collegen" injections in PARKING LOTS . . . no big surprise that it isn't collegen and they're having problems, well, DUH .. . Liz

Thanks to all who responded so honestly...as I read each one, I (trying to be in denial) was singing the words of Sheryl Crow, "lie to me, I promise I'll believe"!! lol I think this is going to be a much longer project than I had hoped, one of conquer and divide...I have three fairly large rooms, including the kitchen :-0, and a long hallway to deal with, and I think I'll be scraping each one, and cussing and kicking myself for having it done in the first place! I really like the idea of the textured ceiling because it hides the imperfections and "settled" areas of the ceiling, but these sprayed on ceilings were so not worth it! Does anyone have experience with diy rolled-on textured ceilings that you can paint over, and any tips for doing it? Are they not worth the aggravation in the long run also? The good news is that the ceilings were done in 1996, so I think the risk of asbestos is nil. Thanks again for the input! Kath

Eileen Said: The acoustic properties for this material are pretty focused - it will help deflect (and absorb VERY LITTLE) high frequency noise from your immediate area underneath it. With noise from upstairs neighbors won't make any difference. I removed it it one bedroom, adjacent to another. I have berber carpeting...no difference. Of course, I have not hauled a pink noise generator and spectrum analyzer in there, but pretty much...there is no real benefit to the stuff. If you were to want to reduce nouise from adjacent or upstairs neigbors, it would take a thickness of insulation, or a mechanical solution (like resilient channels...used in many recording studios...basically, a channel that you attach a second drywall wall to) in order to dampen out especially the low frequencies of footsteps, and neighbor noise. Bob

Hi all...it's been about a month since I last posted re: building under-the-bed princess drawers/platform for an airbed. I DID IT and they came out beautiful! I ended up making them out of plywood, in two sections, each with two drawers measuring 28w x 16d x 12h, then then using two pieces of plywood for the head and bottom boards to tie to all together; because they weren't "woodworker perfect", I ended up painting it satin black (as opposed to my original plan to stain them) and added antique brass lacy knobs for the drawers. As soon as I get my printer and and scanner back in order (another dreaded project..lol) I'll share the results. For my next project....my dreaded popcorn ceilings are in need of something! They were sprayed on by a machine and I was told that it couldn't (and wouldn't have the need to) be painted. Well, 6 years later, I think that was one of the sorriest mistakes I made to my home!! Has anyone had any experience with this type of ceiling and has anyone ever tried to paint over them? Any and ALL ideas would be appreciated! Thanks! Kath

Hi all - I am trying to make arrangements to attend an artist's workshop in beautiful San Antonio the week of November 18. Are there any members who would be willing to rent me a room for 4/5 nights? It might be a nice way to meet you, but I'll be exhausted and you won't see much of me, I promise. Heck, I'll even sleep on the couch ;o) If you live in the area, and are willing to consider it, drop me a line off the list. Thanks! Liz

The last cracked pane is replaced, the last window sash is painted and the last strip of trim is a dark brown, just as planned. If another window gets broken it had better be me that does it, cause I'm for more adverse to suicide than I am to homicide. Dale

Hello! My name is Aimee and I just joined a couple days ago. I do all kinds of stuff. :o) We just bought a house (aren't even in it yet) and I have some plans and questions! Looking forward to getting to know you all Aimee Aimee Fleck & the Zoo in Ohio Sir Otis (baby basset hound), Miss Purdy (WGSD), Rosco the Great Kitty, Fred the turtle The Angel Company Angel #147 GO BROWNS! angelstamper@...

I have always had a little trouble with the drain in my shower. Fairly often (it seems to me) I have to put Liquid Plumber and/or Build-UP Reover down the drain to keep it working. I know this is to some extent unavoidable. Recently, I had trouble with my washer drain clogging up (it's in my garage). I used Liquid Plumber and it seemed to work fine, but about four weeks later it clogged up again. Liquid Plumber solved that problem too. I'm on a tight budget and had recently switched to a cheap laundry detergent. I'm thinking of going back to my old brand and trying it for a while. I am wondering if the cheap brand caused the trouble. The cheap soap is no bargain if I have to buy extra Liquid Plumber. That sgot me wondering if my shower problem is somehow linked to the type of soap we use. Any ideas? Should I be looking into less expensive drain un-cloggers than Liquid Plumber? I'm a stay-at-home mom, so money is tight. Thanks for any advice. Kelley Oklahoma City

But, am trying to remodel. It's a never ending job! We just got done remodeling our basement and moved to this house. This house has great potential, but it's going to be a lot of work. It's an older house (100+ years) and has been in my husband's family since it was built. So, I am stuck between other family members wishes (who don't live here) to 'keep things original' and my wish to update the house to be more of what I would dream of. Hope that made sense!?! So far we have re-roofed, added a forced air heating system, and are currently replastering the walls on the second floor. We have also finished the floors in the upstairs hallway and in two bedrooms. We are planning on splitting one of the bedrooms upstairs into two bathrooms. One bathroom would be for the master bedroom and the other would be for the remaining bedrooms. I would love to move the laundry area upstairs where all of the clothes are, but have heard horror stories about water damage. Any advice on this? We need to update the kitchen area also. Trying hard to figure out how to add a modern functional kitchen and still make it fit in with the character of the house. All of the floors need to be refinished, carpeted or tiled. I don't think anything has been done to this house for years because of a lack of monies. Okay, enough rambling. Here's my BIG question. How big of a mistake is it to remove hard wood floors and lay ceramic tile? I know some people would hunt me down for thinking such a thing, but I have a very high traffic area (which is exposed to water-from people on coming in from the lake) that I feel hard wood floors would be damaged too quickly. Right now they are hiding under those ugly fake wood peel-and-stick tiles. Well, does anyone have a better suggestion? Thanks for listening! I hope to learn a few great tricks and tips from this group! Jeannette

hi, I am very non diy friendly, but have a vinyl/wood door and i wish to change the colour. Can i just paint over the existing colour without sanding or anything like that? many thanks for your help

I thought this was so well stated that no further commentary was necessary.----Dale "DO NOT FORGET" I sat in a movie theater watching "Schindler's List," asked myself, "Why didn't the Jews fight back?" Now I know why. I sat in a movie theater, watching "Pearl Harbor" and asked myself, "Why weren't we better prepared?" Now I know why. Civilized people cannot fathom, much less predict, the actions of evil people. On September 11, 2001 dozens of capable airplane passengers allowed themselves to be overpowered by a handful of poorly armed terrorists because they did not comprehend the depth of hatred that motivated their captors. On September 11, thousands of innocent people were murdered because too many Americans naively reject the reality that some nations are dedicated to the dominance of others. Many political pundits, pacifists and media personnel want us to forget the carnage. They say we must focus on the bravery of the rescuers and ignore the cowardice of the killers. They implore us to understand the motivation of the perpetrators. Major television stations have announced they will assist the healing process by not replaying devastating footage of the planes crashing into the Twin Towers. I will not be manipulated. I will not pretend to understand. I will not forget. I will not forget the liberal media who abused freedom of the press to kick our country when it was vulnerable and hurting. I will not forget that CBS anchor Dan Rather preceded President Bush's address to the nation with the snide remark, "No matter how you feel about him, he is still our president." I will not forget that ABC TV anchor Peter Jennings questioned President Bush's motives for not returning immediately to Washington, DC and commented, "We're all pretty skeptical and cynical about Washington." And I will not forget that ABC's Mark Halperin warned if reporters weren't informed of every little detail of this war, they aren't "likely -- nor should they be expected -- to show deference." I will not isolate myself from my fellow Americans by pretending an attack on the USS Cole in Yemen was not an attack on the United States of America. I will not forget the Clinton administration equipped Islamic terrorists and their supporters with the world's most sophisticated telecommunications equipment and encryption technology, thereby compromising America's ability to trace terrorist radio, cell phone, land lines, faxes and modem communications. I will not be appeased with pointless, quick retaliatory strikes like those perfected by the previous administration. I will not be comforted by "feel-good, do nothing" regulations like the silly "Have your bags been under your control?" question at the airport. I will not be influenced by so called,"antiwar demonstrators" who exploit the right of expression to chant anti-American obscenities. I will not forget the moral victory handed the North Vietnamese by American war protesters who reviled and spat upon the returning soldiers, airmen, sailors and Marines. I will not be softened by the wishful thinking of pacifists who chose reassurance over reality. I will embrace the wise words of Prime Minister Tony Blair who told Labor Party conference, "They have no moral inhibition on the slaughter of the innocent. If they could have murdered not 7,000 but 70,000, does anyone doubt they would have done so and rejoiced in it? There is no compromise possible with such people, no meeting of minds, no point of understanding with such terror. Just a choice: defeat it or be defeated by it. And defeat it we must!" I will force myself to: -hear the weeping -feel the helplessness -imagine the terror -sense the panic -smell the burning flesh - experience the loss - remember the hatred. I sat in a movie theater, watching "Private Ryan" and asked myself, "Where did they find the courage?" Now I know. We have no choice. Living without liberty is not living. -- Ed Evans, MGySgt., USMC (Ret.) Not as lean, Not as mean, But still a Marine.

Dale, did you say you paint the windows right after you glaze them? My glazing says to wait 2 weeks or something like that, and to use oil based paint. What do you do? (assuming I ever get this far with a window) Thanks, Liz

Welcome to the list Nancy - wow, up on a roof at 68 . . . I don't even like to do it now (45) I'm sure you'll have some good information to share! Thanks for joining us. Liz

is it a one time thing or commercial production? If you are putting glass panes in on an refular basis, go ahead and buy the gun if you are only putting a copleof panes in, dont spend the money on the gun, do it one of the other ways suggested. How big are the panes of glass? Be sure to use what ever will secure it best. wendy

Note, if you remove the air gap, all you have to do is make sure the dishwasher drain (the hose that used to run into the air gap) is up higher than the sink drain - just loop it up to the underside of the countertop. That will create an internal 'air gap' that works just fine. It's all I've ever had on any of my dishwashers (for 30 years) Dale, what is an RO water faucet? Running Over water faucet? Rusty Old water faucet? Righteous Oily water faucet? Really Obnoxious water faucet?? I know that there's a simple answer that I'm overlooking . .. Liz oh, I do crossword puzzles in ink!

I have a couple of Kohler Wellworth toilets. Both of them are about 3 years old, and both have had the same problem. The flapper valve does not consistently close well...consequently, the tank drains and must refill. I have tried the typical: 1) Cleaned the valve and where it seats on the toilet. 2) Lightly sanded the surface where it seats. 3) Replaced the valve. They are OK for a while, but then I have to go through the same routine again in less than a year. I don't ever remember replacing flapper valves that soon. - We have fairly hard water. - I have used the types of flapper valves that are supposed to be resistant to the chemicals in the water (should I switch to the regular rubber ones?). - I also have a suspicion that maybe the valves collect small air bubbles...and become too buoyant. Again, maybe a slightly different material composition for the valve would combat that. Any suggestions or troubleshooting tips? Thanks in advance. Bob

Walmart has heat guns ;o) Liz

My father in law once owned a small hand-held "staple gun" that shot out little diamond shaped metal pieces that he used to install panes of glass into cabinetry, window panes, etc. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Are these still available? Does anyone have any other suggestions for installing glass into cabinetry? I don't like when people use caulk or some sort of adhesive - it looks pretty messy from the inside. Thanks! Shane

I'm moving on-campus, I'm a junior and a working student. All is well there, except I'm moving from a luxury apartment to an old apartment complex on-campus. It needs livening up. I look at my walls at my luxury apartment and it just has a brighter coat of white paint. Is it that velvety paint - now I'm not an expert on paints - but is it acrylic or some kind of smoothing (yet non-reactive) chemical mixed in? It is quite smooth and much brighter than the paint at my on-campus apt. I guess I'm thinking of the kind of paint you put in your bathrooms that is more sheer to repel humidity. Anyhow, it shows I need a lesson on the types of paints and suggestions to liven up my bedroom and possibly the living room. It's the perfect time because my roommate is a foreign exchange student and he has nothing. N O T H I N G. So it's near empty, and given the week overlap I have between apartments, I can paint for 2 days without a big deal. By the way, what about the smell as it dries? How much will it affect him as he sleeps next door for a few days? And extra coats? I know the hard part is taping everything and corners, but no biggy, just meticulous work. Removing the blinds, etc. I can handle. Placing plastic mats on the carpet. Ok. I'll add some plants and whatever, but I think the place has kind of a musty smell. I need to improve the circulation in there, perhaps clean the filters? Maybe that good old feng shui of lemon juice and water sprayed in all the corners could ease the smell a bit. So, I hope it all works out! Thanks for ANY tips!

Strategy Changes * A proposal for opening international markets was presented to and approved by Sales and Marketing VPs on March 5. For details, see the "Overseas Opportunities" white paper, available from Paul Brach. * We propose special summer catalogs for each region, similar in layout to Region 4s spring catalog.

I am looking of good air tools and a compressor. I am considering harbor freight and name brands like porter cable. Does anyone have any good sources for this kind of tool? Thanks Jim

I am still working on our pool house. I am getting ready to install 3/8 plybead plywood on the walls. I think it is thick enough to nail directly to the studs. (16" on center) But, I really don't know what I am doing either. Do I need to use furring strips or am I ok to nail this right to the studs. Any thoughts from knowledgable people are appreciated. Thanks, Dave Dazer

Mark--Thanks for the tip on cutting the diffuser! It's worth a try. I wonder if Drimmel has an attachment I could use.... And safety glasses are a MUST!! I've already learned that! -- Mary M. Oak Ridge, TN

Much to my wife's chagrin, I have pack rat tendencies (I take after my dad!). We bought a house three years ago - and STILL haven't parked a car in the garage. Having two children doesn't help - especially since they are the youngest of the 10 grandkids in the family, we get hand-me-downs at a pretty high rate, and then try to pass on what they grow out of to others. So, the garage has gathered much STUFF. I managed to get a great deal on some industrial stockroom shelving. 2'deep x 4' wide x 7' tall. I managed to install 7 units, and still have room for my work benches and tools, but still haven't cleared the floor. Last Saturday I was working to install the last set of shelves, anchor it to the wall, put up panels to protect the water heater gas, water, and exhaust lines from anything falling, and to keep stuff from falling onto the chest freezer that I put basically inside one set of shelving (so I can put the Costco bulk items above it). I had some cheapo shelves that I just couldn't throw away the supports from a while back. I might "need" them someday! Well, I did. I cut them, and installed them as rails to keep stuff from falling onto the freezer. Plywood scraps from previous projects made up the panels to keep stuff from falling onto the water heater. When I went to install the panel to shield the exhaust (it had to attach to a soffet, and the shelves), I realized I needed some angle brackets. Drat, didn't have any. But wait...when we bought the house, I removed all of the mini-blinds and curtains. I still had the hardware in a baby-wipe tub. Sure enough, the angle brackets there were perfect for the job. I was patting myself on the back. "If I weren't such a packrat, I wouldn't have had the shelf pieces. I wouldn't have had the wood. I wouldn't have had the brackets. Heck, I wouldn't have had the baby- wipe tub to put the brackets IN..." Here's the punch line: Then I realized...if I wasn't such a pack rat, I wouldn't NEED the shelves to put the stuff on! My wife just smiled...and agreed. Anybody else see themselves in that scenario? BTW, another pack rat tip: the large kitty litter jugs make great storage containers for: fertilizer, grass seed, bird seed, pet food, and other such stuff that comes in bags, You can neatly store it on shelves and it keeps other animals from invading the stash. Bob

Hi! I'm new to this board and would like to know if anyone has had any experience with a new product called the Subflor system. It is designed to be used over concrete floors to create a warmer and drier surface for floor coverings. It consists of 2x2 ft. tongue-and-groove OSB panels with dimpled plastic laminated to the bottom, which are installed by simply tapping the panels together with a hammer and a block of wood. According to the July/August issue of The Family Handyman magazine "it is one of the best new products of the decade." I am thinking of putting it down in my basement. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Al

Oh, one thing - if any of your fittings are plastic (on the faucet incoming water connection) DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM TOO TIGHT. I did that on a bathroom sink - apparently tightened them so tight that they cracked (but didn't leak) until the middle of the night when they both blew off and the bathroom/bedroom flooded! so be careful! Did I mention that I hate plumbing? Liz

We have a small parking/drive area about 40 feet square that needs to be have some cracks repaired and the whole thing sealed. I have never sealed a drive so I need advice as to the 'right' sealers and fillers to buy. I see 5 gal. of sealer from $6 to $20. What's the difference? I will appreciate any tips and advice on the subject. Bob

Today we installed 1 of 2 skylights, 21x46 in 10 invh thick open beam roof.ceiling of mountain cabin. Aprrox time 6 hrs. Tasks: CHOOSE OPTIMAL LOCATION (IN KITCHEN) above main work counter Seal the inside ceiling with tape and drop cloth to catch all the debris from sawing and cutting ceiling and roof hole. Drive a large spike from the kitchen inside thru the roof. This was pehpas the most disconcering thing..driving a nail thru the beautiful knotty pine t & g! Next we measurd off precisely where we wanted the SL mounted using the nail as the reference mark...ie, everythign was measured WRT the nail. After triple checking....we made our final marks on the roof and with a carbide blade made our first cut about 3 inches deep,. Then we drilled some holes and followed up with the Sawzall.. 20 minutes later we were thru. We pounded toenails in to keep the chuck of roof fromfalling thru... After removal of the piece we cleaned up everything, checked and fine tuned the square of the opening. next we calked the opening andplaced the skylight and screwed it down. And hen applied flashing aand tar and new shingles. I uses MUCH EXTRA tar,...as this pupppy aint't gonna leak on my watch!!! Total time abuot 6 hours.

I'm afraid I know the answer to this, but I have a small (1/2-inch to 1 inch) hairline crack in the bottom right corner of my toilet tank, which drips slowly. Is there a way to patch the porcelain so I won't have to replace the entire toilet? BTW, my regrouting project in that bathroom is DONE!!!!! (well, I could do more, but the shower enclosure is done!!) Now I need to find a way to cut a replacement piece of plastic diffuser for my flourescent light enclosure --it's an odd size opening (12 by 46). A sharp utility knife and masking tape did NOT work--the plastic was too brittle. Ideas? Thanks!! -- Mary M. Oak Ridge, TN

jess asked..... Wendy What breed of dogs and what kind of showing? Jess HI Jess, Well I started training ob then command attack, guard, etc. -i started with dobes and shepards, then to training individual ob - goldens, golden lab, portugese water dogs- min pins, min schnauzers...cairns, welsh corgie for hearing impaired... when i was a kid i wanted to work for hte seeing eye dog institute in NJ but my family moved to phila- i of course moved back since then- but don;t work there. I used to go to the shows in the phila area, and help my friends get their pooches goldens, and irish setters ready for westminster- what a show! that'd be inthe late 70's. I used to start the 3-6 month pupsters just following you at heel around the ring ay shows in phila. then less than 10 years ago i headed back to the shows and was helping with portugese water dogs, min pins schnauzers and the little breed that looks like a red fox anyway, I do love the dog world, and some of the people are excellent too. for many years I worked in grooming salons, and spent times with others who showed for utility and ob. So tell me jess about the rottie world you are involved with.

Hi everybody. I work on Weekend Warriors for HGTV and we are currently looking for people in the Los Angeles area who are taking on home improvement projects. If you've seen the show then you'll know we cover regular folks like yourselves tackling projects on their own without the help of an expert. No project is too big or too small! (Well, projects can be too huge or not big enough but we'll deal with that later) Give me a call (818/255-9240) or send me an email (matthew_beirne@...) if you're interested. We have 26 episodes to fill with projects, no reason why you shouldn't be featured on our show. I apologize that we need to exclude people outside the area. But since most project takes weeks or most times months to complete we need to find poeple who are near our offices in LA. I wish we could travel to see how it's done across. Maybe in the future. Thanks for your time. I look forward to hearing from you.

Hi MC, I'm a new member, my first post.....ahem! Is it clean water leaking or grey (dirty) liquids? That is very important to know where to start. Did you put a new seal where the sink goes under or over the countertop? When scrubbing the sink & countertops you may slosh some water to a spot where the seal is inadequate, the little strip behind the faucets is notorious. Do you have a spray attachment? I love 'em but you may want to examine it very carefully for a tiny hole (even a pinprick would do it), it would only leak while in actual use. You must be irritated to death! All that work and it still leaks! Where do you find the liquid, right in the center or against the back wall? Is it miniscule or torrents? Is there only a puddle or do you actually see drips falling? Does it only leak if you use the water, or leak during the night when all are in bed, or both? Grrrr, wish I was there, you & I'd track the sucker down! What time is everyone in chat? I'm west coast (USA), Don

back in the ole days, actually the first indpendence hall in philadelphia was made of white cedar roof shingles. they used to mine the wood out of the bogs in the pine forests of NJ, the wood was extrememly water resistant and therefore excellent material for roofs. enjoy your treasure. wendy

I just wanted to thank everyone for sending some great ideas on fixing/painting my rusty boat trailer ... Thank you, Marty ~~~ <*((((

Hi All, My wife and I have recently purchased an old farmhouse in Illinois. We are digging right into the work that it needs, and it needs a lot. My big project for the rest of the warm season is to tear off and replace the roof since the singles are pretty worn out. Their are between 2 and 4 layers of asphalt shingles (it varies on different parts of the roof) and underneath there are cedar shingles. It's a very steep roof which I suppose is normal for wood-shingled roofs, but it makes the work a lot slower than roofs I've worked on before. I found that the cedar shingles were fastened with small square nails. I know it's an old house, but I don't know how old. Does anyone know what the square nails indicate about the age of the house? I couldn't tell how the nails were made. They looked rather pitted, perhaps from rusting. Incidentally, the house seems to have been very well built originally. They certainly didn't skimp on size or quality of lumber. Everything just gives the impression of having been done with good quality materials and workmanship. Is that typical of old houses? (I know many houses these days are not built nearly so solidy.) Thanks, Mark

Hi everyone.My brother has come up with away to keep the mosquitos out expand living space and turn your garage into a screen room,and the price is right ..Only 89$ for a 6x 7 garage.He has even designed a web site ,so that everyone can see how it is done .Or they can buy one from him.The website is www.garagedoorscreens.com .It has been features in many newspapers lately .

Ginger We have a septic tank and a dishwasher. The problem is garbage! If your dishwasher is a food eater too this causes your septic to fill up too fast and you have to have it pumped the water itself is not a problem it is the scraps. You should not use a garbage disposal with a septic tank. I learned this the hard way Terry

~~~~~~~~<*(((( thats all.... wendy

Just wondering if anybody can help me out, my boat trailer is get rusty in a few areas. Was wondering if anybody had any ideas how to get rid of the rust plus what primer/paint to use , color is white .. if position step by step instructions ... Thank you, Marty <*((((

Need some help, On one side of my house it looks like I'm getting a mold/mildew on our vinyl siding. This side of the house is very shady all the time. Can anybody recommend a good cleaner and what to do to prevent this from happening again ... Thanks, Marty

Rich if you tell me what you are trying to do I will try to talk you threw it. I can't draw worth flip. But basically if you want two switches for one light you needed two three way switches and for each additional switch you will need a four way switch. The four ways have to go between the three ways. The three ways will have a ground screw two silver screws and a black or brass screw. The black or brass screw at one switch will be where your power comes in the other one will be where the power goes to the light. The two silver screws will connect from switch to switch. If you put in a four way it goes between the two three ways and connects to the lines going to the silver screws. One way to get a better understanding of how these switches work is to get an OHM meter that has a setting than tones on a closed circuit hook it to differnt terminals and see how the electricty flows threw the switches. Robert

Tom wrote: You know, sometimes it's a curse being able to do all this stuff! Just kidding. But I also understand getting into all this work to distract yourself from your problems

I realize from the many posts on the subject that there is a certain amount of fear when it comes to removing plaster-over-lath walls because of the mess. This does not need to be the case, and in many cases I'd rather remove a plaster wall than one with sheetrock. There are some tricks involved and I will try to share several of them with the group. First rule is that you don't start by trying to bust the plaster and lath down with a sledge hammer, but remove it just like it was put up, one layer at a time. Put down some type of floor covering such as a tarp over tarp system. There is a logical reason for this method, and I will explain. If you wish to salvage the existing floor covering such as hard wood, tack the edge of the first plastic coated fabric tarp in place over the entire floor area. Next make sure that door ways are covered with a dust stop, in fact old blankets that are periodically sprayed with "Endust" to act as filters works very well. Use a second set of tarps to act as catch tarps for the removed plaster. Now you are ready to begin the plaster removal process. Start by carefully removing a small section of plaster at the center of the area to be removed, being careful not to damage the under lying lath. Next using a small flat shovel that has been sharpened or a pinch bar that is sharpened, go between the plaster and the lath and remove the plaster from the lath. It will often help if you can dampen the plaster. As you peal off sections of the plaster, place it in trash containers that have wheels and roll them out to be dumped. For the final clean up, sweep the remaining plaster to the center of the center of the second set of tarps and picking up the corners dump them as well. Finally starting at the top of the wall or one side of the ceiling if that is what is being removed, carefully remove the lath, pulling nails and saving most of the lath as you go. Tie the lath in bundles and store for use as shims, stakes, and believe it or not they have market value in many areas. New plaster lath is nearly impossible to find any more. If you plan to retain the existing door and window frames you may find that tacking lath on each stud before applying sheet rock will bring the wall very close to the edge of existing window and door frames. If the lath is not the right thickness, rip strips and apply to each stud before putting up new sheet rock. When removing the trim you wish to reuse around doors and windows, it works well to carefully pry them out from the wall until the hacksaw blade for a saws-all will just fit behind the trim. Then cut off the nails rather than trying to pull them out and risk damage to the trim. NOTE When removing nails from trim pull them on through with a large pair of end pinchers and you will not cause splintering of the finished side. You can get a large pair of end pinchers at your local farm and ranch store, as they are used to trim horses hoofs before putting on new shoes. Some people just call them hoof snips. If you will go show and take your time there will be very little mess, if you will clean up as you go and don't wait until the last minute you may find the whole exercise to be even fun. Sometimes there interesting notes on the lumber behind old walls. I remember one fellow in Oklahoma found an old musket that was still capped and primed. Dale

to have even if it is just me.... This reminds me of a question I've had -- We have a bank of drawers that could be replaced with one of these small dishwashers, but I've heard that one should not have a dishwasher if you have a septic tank. Does anyone know about that? Anyone here have a dishwasher and a septic tank? I love this group -- gives me courage to try some things I wouldn't otherwise. Thanks all. Ginger

We are about to rennovate some rooms in an older home we purchased. The previous owner stuccoed over some sections of wall. Any ideas on whether it would be better to try to remove the stucco, remove the wall and replace, or install drywall on top of the stuccoed wall? Really looking into the ease and time factors.

As much as I hate vinyl siding, it looks like we are going to be stuck with putting it on. Does anyone know if there is much of a quality difference out there? The only one we have looked at is at our local Lowe's. BTW, we had a bad hailstorm here, and some of the homes had numerous holes in the vinyl siding. Is that common? Jessica

I've been often asked by local "Land Lubbers" what it was that I had found so intriguing about being on a Submarine. Having just finished a long day or scarping, glazing, cleaning, waxing, and painting windows, I now have the answer, They Don't Have Windows. Dale

Hi, I'm new to this list and I need some advice. The cabinate doors in our bathroom are plastic and they have developed uneven splotches of that ugly yellow color that old white plastic gets. Unfortunately, our local home improvement store does not seem to carry replacement doors, only full cabinates. I do not want to get a whole new cabinate, the only problem really is the doors. (This is not the small mirrored cabinate on top of the sink, this is the big one under the sink with the sink built into it.) What are my options? Could I paint the doors? What type of paint should I use if do?

Leslie Pay and have it done there is nothing worse in my opinion than having your kitchen less than what you really want it to be. Cut corners somewhere else but not in your kitchen..... If you are anything like me you spend a lot of time there so make sure it is done right. Gosh I needed to hear myself say that, think I will take my own advice. I have been looking over kitchen cabinets for my mobile and thinking how to cut costs too. I have even considered not putting in a dishwasher I found an 18" dishwasher today and thought it would be nice to have even if it is just me.... Lets both go for it......lol Terry By the way anyone every have there cabinets refaced? How did they come out and hold up to wear? another thought.

In a message dated 8/23/02 6:18:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, galphoenix@... writes: Wendy What breed of dogs and what kind of showing? Jess

hi guys im doing a domestic appliance servicing course in ireland so anything you want to forward me on which you think could be usefull i'd appreciate....... cheers P

Hey everybody, I have posted a few times in the past year or so. My 4-way switch that I had fixed is still working and we FINALLY got an electrical guy to come out and stop the water from flowing INTO our circuit breaker box YEAH! Then, we hired a guy to remove the 13x30 concrete slab of a patio from out backyard. Of course he dinged up the siding with the Bobcat (he WILL be fixing it soon, I hope) Now we have a muddy/gravely mess, but I have my eyes on the prize of the deck that my DH will build next summer! So, here is out plan and I need your advice. We are have been saving money to get our kitchen re-done. It still has all the orginal stuff from when it was built in 1960 and is really a waste of space. Since we have the money, should we just have someone do it for us, OR should we attempt to do it ourselves. How hard could it be to gut the kitchen, move water and electricity, put a few new circuits in, replace the subfloor, lay a floor and then put in new cabinets and a counter??? Is it actually a savings to do it ourselves when it will take several months OR just get it done in a 4-6 week time? Any ideas? Leslie

Thanks for the copmpliment Pat. Nope havent ever done news comentary, but was so tickled when i saw the neon butt, i had to write the akc ad! funny in another life i used ot train and show dogs. anyway, i didnt realize it was going to get so much attention, but it sure was fun! wendy, the hardest working garden designer in Northern NJ

Thanks Wayne I appreciate it. I think that may the Quest pipe company I have heard that I may be able to get there help. Terry

So far it has been a helluva 6 months: (I figure about 1000 hours of personal labour and 200 hours of hired in work so far) First-- increased tool box contents with purchase of Sawzall (awesome!)- $139. B & D cordless and B & D 3/8 in drill motors $250. (yellow models) New mitre box Grinder Roof stapler and air compressor (Bostich= awesome!) $550.00 (THSI IS FOR SALE BY THE WAY FOR ABOUT $300- used one time only!) (after I finish the wood shed roof shingles- (that match the house's).. 1- Covered under deck with plywood/sheetmetal/shingles to make a 20x34 car port 1 week $750.00 2- Replaced old 4x6 deck posts and 4x12 beams with new concrete pillars/foudation and lumber 4 days $250.00 3- Replaced rotted T1-11 and outsside light switch 3 hours $75.00. 4- Added 40 feet of porch roof plus 18 foot gable 3 weeks $3,500.00 5- Dug out 30footx10footx10foot basement crawl space and reinforced foundation with 210 bags of concrete retaining wall (12,000 lbs!) Poured concrete floor 4 weeks $1,400.00 6- Refinished entire roof with new 25 year shingles 2 weeks $850.00 7- Installing downstairs new woodstove and new chimney installtion/construction In Progress $4200.00 (includes new Lopi Answer Woodburnign stove) 8- Redoing rotted out deck stairs In Progress $1250.00 9- Laid foundation for wood storage building 2 days $250.00 10- Laid out design for storage shed (12x10) 1 day 11- Remodel upstairs bath- new fixures, vanity, sink faucet 12- New instalation of dishwasher, kitchen cabs 2 weeks $5,500.00 13- Cleaned out spider webs and 20 years of dirt out of attic space previously unused. 2 days 14- Put a floor in attic space (25 ft x 12 feet) 1 day $125 for plywood 15- Wired attic for lights, whole house fan, switche thermostat for fan, vent 2 days $275.00 ARE WE TIRED YET!??? I figured I have saved over $25,000.00 to date by doing all the work myself or having hired some laborer help @ $7 to $18 per hour and paying them cash. Todo before the snow flies: Finish stove installtion, Repainting enire house, build wood shed, order 4 cords of wood. (usually I cut but too busy this year clearly). Stain deck. For the winter: Finish interior addition of scones in MBR, finish remodel of d/s bath, finish new sanding stain on cabs. Next spring: Build my dream garage!! Drawing up plans, (20x30 approx) and applying for permit for next year. Use the money saved to build it. I am located in Cold Springs CA, 95346 near highway 108 and Yosemite National Park. I am semi-retired and do computer consutling. My Dad, who passed away a year ago, taught me everything from plumbing, electrical, concrete work, framing, HVAC, framing, finish work, etc, bless his soul- we built our family home paycheck by paycheck over a 3 year period in N. Illinois and ended up with NO mortgage! I much prefer Ca however. Cheers, and hope you are happy in your tasks, this is the happiest I have ever been in my life! I jsut miss my ex g/f-- who loved to paint but also loves to cheat!! So she is history and I am having fun now with total immersion on the house remodel.

Okay Lars......I guess you saw his rear too! And sounds like you must know a little about dogs, may be a lot? At least you know what AKC stands for. I swear you won't believe this-------I use to work in a hospital and I was talking to one of the nurses on duty about dogs. She INSISTED that AKC stood for american KETTLE club!!!! Can you believe it??? I asked her to write it down so I could be absolutely certain of what she was saying! When I told her it stood for Kennel, as in where you might put a dog, she wanted nothing to do with such a crazy notion! Anyhow the rottie has won best in show many times and has completed his championship and is now retired. Jess In a message dated 8/21/02 10:05:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, larsthephotographer@... writes:

A dog is the only thing on earth that loves you more than he loves himself. An aquarium is just interactive television for cats. Cat's motto: No matter what you've done wrong, always try to make it look like the dog did it. Although cats are rather delicate creatures, and they are subject to a good many ailments, I never heard of one who suffered from insomnia. Buy a dog a toy and it will play with it forever. Buy a cat a present and it will play with the wrapper for 10 minutes. Dogs and cats instinctively know the exact moment their owners will wake up. Then they wake them 10 minutes sooner. Dog's have owners. Cat's have staff. Dogs believe they are human. Cats believe they are God. Dogs shed, cats shred. I wonder if other dogs think poodles are members of a weird religious cult? If you think dogs can't count, try putting three dog biscuits in your pocket then giving Fido only two of them. No one appreciates the very special genius of your conversation as the dog does. Things that upset a terrier may pass virtually unnoticed by a Great Dane. Outside of a dog, a book is probably man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. I hope to be the kind of person my dog thinks I am. Thousands of years ago, cats were worshipped as gods. Cats have never forgotten this. Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful.

Hello everyone I am new here and today I bought a mobile home 81 Ridgewood by Liberty in a park.Paid $2000.00 just to give you an idea of how much work the inside needs. it is a 2 bd 2 ba. basically needs gutting. Bad leaks in the past have made it necessary to replace the ceiling and floors, plumbing will need repairs, electrical new bathtubs, sinks whole new kitchen. You have the idea. I need the names of places to order things for mobile homes. I need a website for Quest pipes I am told there is a recall on this home that has never been taken care of. I know that was a long time ago but I hear there is something new now also. Where do you order the Garden tub with wall surround? Kitchen cabinet and counter, all appliances have to be replaced. I am in California, Fresno area. Any info will be appreciated. Terry

I am a beginner when it comes to do it yourself projects. I cant wait to check out your ideas and try some myself..... tabbe

Shane Thanks for your comments! No, that photo is actually the front of the house, minus the porch roof. There is a front porch 8' wide and running the entire length of the house---50'. So that means we have 400 sq ft of outdoor living area in the front and we will have the same in the back. Eventually, perhaps next month, it will have a roof over it and then next summer it will be an enclosed screen porch with a fabulous "living room" in it.........big paddle fan, oak swing and chaise, and a sofa made of willow branches (I got it all picked out already!). Regarding the DH-----well as Liz said, it stands for all of the above. And going thru this major remodel together, trust me, he has been called all of them at different times! Right now he is the *)(*_%#&$&# DH. I bought a FABULOUS french door for the back of the house in the den upstairs (a patio will be out there one day soon). Anyhow, he installed the thing IN A CORNER!!!!! I mean, it is sitting at a right angle to the interior wall!!!! UGGGGHHHH!!! I don't know whether to my hair out or his! But since he only has 3 left, I think I will let him keep them. ;-) Jessica In a message dated 8/21/02 12:17:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, shane@... writes:

Okay----I wrestled with my pc for an hour this morning trying to upload .bmp photos, finally realizing only .jpg will upload to the photo albums. So for those of you who were noticing the dog's rear in the photo, there is now a photo of the other end! He is a beautiful rottie with the sweetest personality. Also there is a new photo of the front of the house with the windos installed. That's progress! Since the house is 50' long, I couldn't get it all in the photo. Anyhow, we are finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. DH says probably one more month before we can move back in. The electrician comes out next week to reconnect the first floor and put wiring in the second floor. After that, we can sheetrock all the upstairs walls and move into the upstairs while gutting the downstairs. Jessica

Long time lurker first time poster here. I'm in the process of finishing my basement, and am getting to the point of painting the new walls. They will be textured with a knockdown texture. My question is this: I have heard that if spraying, I can just put on the final color latex paint right over the texture without priming. If I rolled than it might show some of the shadowing of the joint compound below. I am planning on spraying the whole thing. Is there any problem with skipping the primer? There is obviously a cost/time advantage to doing this, but I don't want to regret it and have to re-paint... That would be even more costly/time consuming than priming in the first place. What do you think? -Adam- Castle Rock, Co.

kids AFTER contractor ;-) Posted: 20-Aug-2002 by gracefieldkennel - Resolution: 480 x 360 Thumbnail: 2 KB | Screen Size: 31 KB | Full Size: 47 KB Jessica, your little one looks like she's about to bite the jugular of the absconded contractor! Go get em grrrl!!

Lowes coupon You can receive a 10% off coupon for Lowes by calling this number: 1-877-62-LOWES There is a rumor that Home Depot will also accept this, but I don't know if it's true. I just ordered one . . . it says it takes about 2 weeks to arrive. Liz

Jessica - Glad to hear things are coming along - I've been wondering about you! Hope you're permanently out of the motel soon! Liz

Hi Jessica, I don't know what it's called, but nowadays, it's considered a full bath. In addition to the waterproof backer board - should be green - you need to put a shower pan under the bottom of the shower. Grout is not watertight, so there has to be a liner under the tile so that the water that goes through it has someplace to go. They used to be made from lead, but I believe they are vinyl now. Someone with more knowledge will have to help you out with that. The traditional way to do a shower pan was with a lead liner, then concrete shaped over it so that it angled towards the drain. I"m not sure if they do it the same way anymore. I'd be very tempted to just put a vinyl shower pan and tile from there up. Liz

In a message dated 020819 5:58:14, ArtsyLiz@... writes: << The government's intrusion (and the people's acquiescence) is just mind-boggling. I'm not a contractor Liz, nor an architect. However, I believe most of these building laws were established to keep builders "in line." Most people have very little knowledge about what "should be" re: home building. By "should be" I mean as viewed by any reasonable person. Earlier in our history many people were taken advantage of by builders who did whatever the homeowner wanted no matter how uninformed, stupid or dangerous that preference might be. Also, builders took advantage of uninformed homeowners (e.g., studs at uneven distances or at every 3') which screwed the homeowner and put $$ in the unscrupulous builders' pocket. There is also the issue of protecting children and unsuspecting visitors to a home. Of course, not only did these laws lead to safer homes of the quality the homeowner was paying for, they also brought conformity and standardization which made mass production and homebuilding easier and more affordable. I don't like government interference either but sometime it is very helpful and sensible and sometimes it even saves the lives of innocent parties. Tom (the retired CPA)

You know, I have such a problem with this. Why is it the government's business if you want to build a 28" shower stall? Or what about a 20" or a 15" shower? Why should this be a LAW?? So, it might make your house harder to sell, because nobody but you wants a shower you can't fit into, so what? This should be a LAW?? The government's intrusion (and the people's acquiescence) is just mind-boggling. Liz

Hi All, I would appreciate info on what to use to upgrade the level of ground to foundation of house so rain does not seep thru foundation wall. Without digging down deep at foundation and then filling in pebbles and then sand( or should it be soil) would it do to put a layer of pebbles on the existing ground, sloping away from foundation, topping it with sand or soil? Thank you

bhg home improvement Food Garden House & Home Entertaining Crafts Family Store BHG.com Decorating Dear Beth, Most bathrooms are modestly sized spaces, so indulging your desire for a particular style can often be accomplished without a huge investment. And if your home has two or more bathrooms, you have the opportunity to create distinct styles by using different materials, layouts, and fixtures. Last week we talked about the fun you can have choosing faucets and remodeling a kitchen, as detailed in the Faucet Guide. This week, we will explore bathroom remodeling. Until next week, happy decorating. Kristine Kennedy, for BHG.com Decorating P.S. Enjoy this newsletter? Forward it to a friend! Calculating Costs Sometimes remodeling a bathroom is a necessity, as was the case for our friends in suburban Minneapolis. The baby blue tiles periodically dislodged themselves from the wall and plopped into the bath! For other people, a bathroom works fine, but the décor has become tiresome. If you are contemplating a bathroom change, look at the variety of bathroom articles found in the Faucet Guide. The budget is the primary remodeling parameter, so be informed about it. This straight-forward list of prices for bathroom items gives low-end to high-end costs and details what features you can expect when spending the big bucks. For even more detailed price information, check out this cost guide for bathroom fixtures. Bathroom Remodeling Basics Once your budget is settled, investigate the combination of materials and fixtures for your price point and needs. For example, if the bathroom is used mainly by one person, a double vanity probably isn't a good investment. The bathroom remodeling planner will take you through the preparation process step-by-step. For fixtures, tubs and showers are your big ticket items. With tubs, some people go for style, such as a vintage clawfoot tub or a freestanding contemporary tub. For showers, you decide on the number and type of heads. Multiple body jets massage head-to-toe, while an overhead rain dome drenches you. If you can't afford the most expensive fixtures and materials, there are still ways to make your bathroom look upscale. Quality faucets and interesting sinks, such as this undermounted metal basin, provide a feeling of luxury. Cosmetic Changes If you're satisfied with the current bath layout, update your bathroom's look simply by changing surfaces and adding decorative items. For inspirational ideas, click through the bathroom slide show. Also check out these dozen decorating pick-me-ups for bathrooms, for advice on wall treatments, curtains, sink skirts, and accessories. This nautical-style bathroom's architecture is pretty basic. The fanciest thing is the shell-shaped pedestal sink. You can replace a sink yourself, and the rest of the style comes from decorative items: the unusual mirror, chairrail, open shelving with accessories, and warm wall color. For anyone who thinks stenciling is passé, take a look at one of my favorite bathroom painting projects. In this pristine bathroom, painted stencils look like Scandinavian tiles. Situated around window, the eye-catching blue gives the room a focal point and provides all the decoration that's needed. Without remodeling, you can: . Paint a backsplash to look like tile, above. . Fashion a focal point window treatment. . Use paint to give new life to walls and cabinets. . Replace surfaces, such as flooring or countertops. . Remove cabinet doors and paint to create instant open shelving. BHG.com Member Services Profile: Your Email: [beth-bhg@...] is on the mailing list. Click here to update your email address. Subscription: Click here to subscribe. Click here to unsubscribe. Technical: E-mail us with any technical questions or concerns. Forgotten your password click here. If you prefer to unsubscribe offline, please send a letter or postcard with your name, complete mailing address, e-mail address, and the names of the newsletters from which you wish to unsubscribe to: Newsletter Unsubscribe, c/o Meredith Corporation LS 025, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, Iowa 50309-3023 Discussions a.. Kitchen & Bath b.. The Home Forum c.. Decorating d.. Build/Remodel e.. I'm Looking For Copyright © 2002, Meredith Corporation. All rights reserved. View our Privacy Policy

Hi gang, I bought some oops paint from Home Depot - it's a dark latex paint. It doesn't dry completely, it stays just a bit tacky. I'm going to be using it on a floor first, so I'll be covering it with poly, which should aleviate the problem, but is there any way to make it dry when I use it uncovered? anything I can add? I can't return it because it's oops paint, and I have 3-5 gallons of it. thanks for any help Liz

Hello, I'm new to this group and am in the process of remodeling a home. I purchased a couple new overhead garage doors and will be installing them myself. I recently poured a new slab for the garage which left my opening at only 6' 8", so I'm going to have to raise the original framework several inches. I'm too naive to know what problems I might encounter in this undertaking so any tips or suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks! Jonathan

Hello! I have paneling in my livingroom area that I would like to cover with drywall. The walls are regular stud walls w/ insulation, then 3/4" drywall, then paneling. I tried taking the paneling off to reuse the drywall, but it rips the top terrible, so it won't work that way. Can I put 1/4" drywall over the paneling and call it good? Would the grooves in the paneling show through the drywall? Thank ee!! Denise

Hey everyone! I'm new here and kind of in a real bind. I have a home (rental) that I'm moving out of and today is my last day before I must turn in the keys. There are two ceramic tiles in my kitchen that must be replaced. They are the corner/edge tiles. I've researched online and I think I can do it myself because I cannot find anyone to repair this on such short notice. My problem is these tiles are on a slight corner where the b-fast bars changes direction. What is the best way to cut the tiles? Nippers? Any suggestions? This will be my first time attempting to replace tile. Anything I should watchout for? Thanks! nbv_01@...

Regarding doing your own electrical, I agree that some people can successfully do this -- and save money -- but please be careful. We are remodeling a house from 1906 and our electrician has found 3 places where the wiring was so poorly done by a DIYer (or bad contractor) that we're surprised the house didn't catch fire years ago. Just make sure you know what you're doing and get the work inspected by your municipality. That's your safety net! good luck! Allison www.renovatorsplace.com

Hi Everyone, I have 30+ year old formica on my kitchen counters. I have a problem with the ink on plastic wrappers (e.g. breadbags) staining the countertop. This happens if I happen to have a damp spot on the counter and don't notice the wrapper. I'm not sure if the ancient countertops have become porous and just soke up the ink or if there is something in the ink. Anyway, does anyone have a solution for removing the ink stains? My preference would be new countertops, but that isn't going to happen anytime soon, LOL! Thanks in advance for any ideas. Pamela

Hello all, My vent tube going up to the sink from the dishwasher keeps spitting water out when it is in cycle. I think that it is trying to drain when this happens. Can anyone give any suggestions as to where to start? The pump, waste pipe, or something else? I did replace the vent at the sink, but no help there. Thanks a million or however much your help can save me, AJ

Are ya'll talking about HABITAT for Humanity? Cuz I have plenty of habits but no habitat! LOL Jessica In a message dated 8/9/02 10:03:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, cinnamon@... writes:

Hi, My name is Scott and I am a freelancer in TV/Film productions. I know this is a short notice but I've asked to interview and possibly film someone in the middle of their "do-it-yourself" project(S). This is for a cable TV show in Korea called DIY Channel. I am in Southern California but will be travelling (from the 11th thru the 17th of Aug) to Chicago(for the national hardware show), Atlanta, and possibly to Knoxville, TN. I do not know if you guys have workshops or meetings on regular basis but if you do please let me as well - because that would be a picture perfect scenario. Please email me at scotteum@... if you are interested. Thanks in advance, Newbie Member Scott

to, this is how I do it. Go to Habit for Humanity. They have every conceivable size drawer priced from $1.00 to $3.00. Pick out the sizes you need and proceed to the castor area. I get the ones that are attached with four screws. These are 50cents each. Works great, not as professional as ones on a glide system but much easier and far, far cheaper. Huh? You mean Habitat for Humanity SELLS used drawers and things like that? I admit I know nothing about the organization, but I'd never have guessed that. I just looked at their website and don't see any indication of it there, but maybe I didn't look far enough. Actually, I do know someone who's active with the group, so maybe I'll check with him. Cinnamon

<<So I spent almost $200 on a shop vac, only to find that once the cellulose gets blown around in the stupid thing, IT ALL PUFFS BACK UP!!!! It is probably too late to tell you this, but you can set that shop vac top on top of anything - like a 55 gallon drum lined with a huge plastic bag. If it doesn't fit, cut a piece of plywood to fit the top with a hole the size of the shop vac. You will probably lose a bit of suction, but it will still work and you won't have to empty the container all the time. This works for any size shop vac - I have a small one that I put on top of a 5 gallon bucket. Liz

Newbie to the group here. I tried to send this yesterday, but my email address was not activated. Has anyone ever used floor leveler (Quik Fix, for example)? I need to level out a plywood subfloor before applying vinyl tile and am kind of apprehensive. I read somewhere the you can tack down metal lath first to improve coverage and strength of the leveler compound. Is anyone familiar with this concept? Also on a side note, I am installing a new bathroom and would like to ensure that the toilet has plenty of flush power. Has anyone ever heard of separating tank from bowl, putting the bowl up on the wall and connecting the two with a length of pipe (kind of like the old time toilet set-up)? Seems like if this is possible, the 1.6 gallon flush would be supercharged. Thanks for any help.

Due to a sudden change in our household (involving my partner and I taking over custody of his two teen girls) we need an extra room. We are hoping to tackle, with a few handy friends, the task of finishing half of the large attic. The house was built in 1920 and the original knob-and-tube wiring remains. The attic has a total of 8 windows, 4 of them dormers. Here's my very rough gameplan. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! 1. Rewire the attic. We have a modern circuit breaker/box with empty slots so this should be relatively easy. 2. The floor is rough wooden slats with some gaps between them. we rather like the look and can't afford to cover the floor with anything expensive. Can we just sand or clean and then coat these boards? If they're too ridged and bumpy, should we not sand them with a floor sander? We've also heard that we should hire someone to do the poly coat because it's difficult to do. true? 3. build a wall to separate the finished part of the attic from the storage area. This will be the most difficult part for us, having never done this before. We will get a contractor friend to help us. 4. Tack up fiberglass insulation. 5. Drywall. 6. Paint. I might be leaving out something obvious. For example, in there somewhere is some storage along the eaves in the finished room 9so the ceiling doesn't go all the way to the floor). but we'd like to have the ceiling go as high as possible. There are some nice wood beams we'd like to keep exposed. And my other concern: We have a slate roof. If the attic is insulated, will it affect how the snow and ice melts/runs off the roof? Will it make our roof age more quickly? Thanks for reading this far; i apologize for such a long post, but I'm a little overwhelmed! But also excited to get started. - Debbie (in Mass.)

Another idea... Get a couple of construction workers with your new contractor and pay the disaster jerk a visit... ask the new contractor to help out...in the pride of his profession..well he let someone like this jerk get away with it... the visit can be "slightly intimidating --purposefuilly"... but the overt intent is a Christian visit to straghten things out in form of restitution..incentivize the new contractor that he can get a bonus of .25 cents on every dollar he collects from the old contractor plus materials he recovers.. if anything u can scare the crap out of hte old contractor.. also this may be hard to do unless u can achieve a good rapport with the new guy..there certainly is a big sympathy factor that could do the trick...and if u strike a right nerve with the new guy he might just do it on priciple. Rich

In a message dated 020803 8:55:55, gracefieldknnl1@... writes: << this guy should pay for what he has put innocent children through. This may sound trite Jessica but no one really has "second sight." You cannot foresee the future. Do not blame yourself for any of what happened and do not believe that your family has only suffered from this experience... they have also gained. It is impossible for any given experience in life to only be a negative one. I cannot tell you all of what you have gained and you certainly are not inclined to consider the possible benefits of this experience at this time... but they are there. Just do everything you can to make the best of each day, set an example for your husband and children and give them endless hugs and kisses. You will survive and grow stronger and you will succeed if you do not relent. And this group has already expressed its heartfelt wishes for your family's recovery, so you've got a support group here. Hang in there gal. Brighter days are coming. It's a fact of the universe. Tom (an atheist)

Good day, I am wondering if anyone in the group has installed forced air ducts in a 2 story house that is usually heated with electric baseboards. My wife and I are interested in buying a house because of the location, but we need central air conditioning installed and there is no duct system in place at this time. We are wondering if anyone has had good/bad experiences with that kind of renovations. So far, my guess is that we will have to use a storage area on each floor to bring a main duct all the way up to the attic, and then run the ducts in the attic down in the ceiling of the second floor. For the main floor, we should be able to just run the ducts in the basement and have the intakes go at the floor level. Thanks for any insight. E

Thanks Panda. It is tough right now. We are doing all we can to go after the guy. I actually can't believe he is still in town, but he is. Hopefully I can get him shut down. Thanks to Rich and Dale for your thoughts as well. We have hired someone to put on the roof and exterior walls this week------after that we are on our own. I will post more pics as we progress. Keep your fingers crossed for us! Jessica In a message dated 8/5/02 3:50:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pandaca_pygmea@... writes:

Jessica & Family: Here in Tornado Alley we see homes in that condition on a regular basis, but it is difficult to believe that someone would deliberately leave one that way. While I would not wish to put ideas into anyone's head, there are just some people in this world that deserve a good killing, or at the least, plastic surgery with a ball bat. I realize that it is probably not a good Christian attitude, but, it is sometimes far more satisfying to get even rather than to get angry. I guess in after thought, the one usually follows the other. Dale

I'm so sorry about your disaster!! The idea of calling the newspaper and evening news station, & having a HUGE sign spelling out the masterful job that he performed and that you and your family can be contacted at such and such motel, your new residence would be a way to get him noticed. Hope you get some justice here... Wendy

perhaps i'm missing something too i went to groups home page, and still dont know what to do to look at the pictures or files. i just dont know the process. can someone explain this to me as if I've never done it b4 thanks, wendy