Do it yourself

I went to the link and pasted the auction #, it was for a coupon that can be used after the store closes on Aug. 4, for 10% off your purchase. It said "friends & family" on the pic, so I assume this person works at Home Depot. Either way, it was already bought. Just an fyi :)

I saw once on HGTV a way to clean up the grooves on a sliding glass door. However it has been quite awhile ago. I am now at the point I need to know how to do it really bad. Can anyone recommend a way to get this cleaned so I can get the door to open, and close without generating a hernia everytime?? Thanks in advance for any help

Dale Thanks for the info! Wish I had known this before setting 200 fence posts last spring! UGHHHHH! Jessica

Here's my current tiling / backer board story: We have knocked a new door through from a 2nd floor room to the adjacent bathroom. The plan is to tile throughout. When we dismantled the cabinets in the bathroom, we found that the existing tile was sitting on 3/4 of cement like stuff. I removed a few existing tiles and the cement stayed behind in good condition. My error was in assuming that this would be the case in the whole room. To get the new tile level in both rooms, we clearly needed to put down a 3/4 base, which we did using 1/4 Hardibacker over 1/2 Hardibacker. This stuff is expensive and seriously hard work, even getting it in the truck at HD is a major ordeal. Anyway, having got the new area all ready, I started removing the rest of the existing tile and guess what, the cement fell apart. In fact, the only bit that stayed intact was the site of my initial investigation. Argh. So now I have to put down the same double layer of Hardibacker in this room also. If I'd known this up front, I would surely have only put in one layer, probably the 1/2, saving myself a lot of expense and effort. My only consolation is that with the double layer, and staggering the joints between sheets, we have a very good quality base for the tile. So I guess the lesson is look before you leap; and look really, really hard. Cheers, Norman Houston TX

Ok, maybe this is off topic, but I have just found a few gifts that the neighborhood dogs left for me in my yard. They have decided to say hello with little gifts in the driveway, around my shed, in the backyard, nearly everywhere you can imagine. I like gifts, but when these are unwanted heaps of fertilizer that do nothing more than insult our olfactory, I am wondering if there is any way short of a shotgun blast aimed at these creatures that would curb their efforts to cover our green yard with dark piles... Any help is greatly appreciated.

What you need is something like "Odo-Ban" (available in places like Sam's). You'll need to remove the carpet and padding ... then treat the underlay with Odo-Ban. If for some reason, you can't remove the carpet and pad, then soak the area with 'Natures Miracle" (available thru pet supply catalogs & pet supp;y warehouses). Apply liberally and allow to air dry.

Hi guys. Im trying to solve a wiring delemma. I have a dual element hot water heater that I think is wired up wrong. The upper element works fine but lower one is showing no power at all. I replaced both thermostats and elements with same results. Here is where I think the problem may lie. first = there are two wires from the upper thermostat that go out to be hooked to 220V breaker one is yellow the other blue. Then there is a Black wire from the lower thermostat that goes up to the outside. (a Red wire from upper thermostat to lower completes lower circuit) What Ive done: I hooked the yellow wire from the upper thermostat to the white wire of the 220V line. Then I hooked the blue wire from the upper thermostat nd the black wire from the lower thermostat to the black 220V line. I think: I have split the circuit improperly. Should the Black wire from the lower thermostat be hooked to the white wire instead? I sure could use some help on this one cuz all the home improvement pages dont want to talk anything electrical. thanx! Mark

I am beginning my summer project of fencing in the yard. About two and a half acres. I've got it marked off, and if I put a post every six feet, I will need about 120 posts. I was planning to use 8ft. landscape timbers into three foot deep post holes. Then use 1x4x12's as the rails. I was going to stagger them (1x4's) one on top and one on the bottom and then use 4x4 fencing wire mesh around the whole thing. Any thoughts on this? Anyone know of a good fence building how to website. I know it's not rocket science and I have built a larger fence before this, but it was a different style and a bit more crude. It was for cattle. Does anyone think I should put some concrete in the bottom of the post holes for a more solid post?

Hello all, Hopefully I'm not posting an inappropriate question to this group but here it goes: I own a "charming" 52-year old cape cod that during the hottest days of summer gets incredibly hot upstairs. I use a window unit (AC) up there to control the heat but am considering installing a gable exhaust fan up in the attic. The attic of a cape cod of course is nothing more than a crawspace covering the top portion of the roof. Does anybody know or have experience with this? Will it even be worth the trouble? TIA, Ant

Any suggestions on how to removed oil based or alklyd paint from a brand new stainless steel sink.

I am trying to get my swamp cooler to put out more air. Can I put a bigger pulley on the squirrel cage and a smaller one on the motor to speed it up? Or is it the other way around?

Hi, everyone! If I were dealing with installing a deck or repairing a circular saw, I'd feel pretty comfortable. However, when it comes to vehicles, I'm still learning. I have a 4.3 1991 Chevy Blazer that is probably the best truck i've ever owned. I am having a problem with the AC, however, and I hope that someone out there can give me some advice. The unit is working well...fan is strong, air is cool...but...I am only getting an air flow from the vent to the windshield (like a defrost) and at the bottom (like a heater). Do you think that this is the AC control switch, or am I looking at something more complex? Thanks, Hugh

Hi all, new to the group, and having major problems accessing previous posts! Every time I try to access a post that's not even a month old yet, I keep getting the "continue to post" message with an advertisement, but when clicking on continue, just brings up another advertisement......never takes me to the post! lol Can someone tell me how to access prior posts??? Thanks, Becky

I bought a Genie Chain glide Garage door opener. I want to install it. Any suggestions? How good is this equipment? Any experiences (good or bad)?

If you do add additional services seperate them by 4 to 6 inches of dirt if using direct burial wire or run them in seperate conduit if you decided to use it. The insulation on phone wire has improved but they still recommend not running it close to electrical lines over a long distance. Robert

We have an above ground pool with a ladder leading into it. For the safety and enjoyment of our children we'd like to build a contraption out of pvc pipe with steps on two sides and a platform in the middle, fill the pipes with sand and set it in the pool. Would anybody know how to do this and also would it ruin the plastic liner? Brenda

Could someone post some bookmarks here that relate to building codes, electrical codes, etc?

Unbelievable isn't it? These people can't follow simple written instructions but they have children! Another list I belong to just shut down since the poor moderator was spending so much time dealing with these requests - usually made in the most rude and accusatory manner that he had a melt down. Seems that he tried to help people unsubscribe themselves and they got so mad that he just didn't do it for them that they accused him of "holding them hostage to the list". What I don't understand is how they manage to get themselves subscribed in the first place! K.

As many of you might recall, last summer it was "build a deck time" and since I've already been chided by none other than "Liz" for not having completed the project, It Is Time. I ordered the doors today that will lead from the "computer-office-put it there-reading- what ever-room"onto the afore mentioned deck. In the process of installing said doors, I must remove a window and enlarge the opening, since mine wife mate insists that it be made wide enough for future wheel chairs. Not sure yet whether it is hers or mine that she makes reference to. Here comes the rub. Our domicile is covered with steel siding and the interior plaster is in pristine condition. I must cut the siding so that it does not look like an addition, and I dare not damage the plaster or I will be very unhappy with myself. Our interior wood work is yellow pine and oak which has that rich golden hue that can only be duplicated with time, another "you better be careful area." I'll let you know how all this progresses, and if I happen to fall strangely silent, send flowers c/o of the local mortuary. It will be suicide, not homicide. My wife is just tickled to death that I'm finally getting around to the task at hand. Dale in the Flat Lands

Hiya: My next-door neighbor bought an old california ranch with a flat room and 14 foot ceilings. I WAS jealous of the ceilings until I went over there the other day. I swear, it was 90 degrees in the house. Apparently, there's no insulation between the roof and the ceiling. Has anybody worked on a flat roof before? My immediate suggestion was to lower the ceiling and insert insulation, but they have some windows that go the whole way up. Do you put stuff on top of the roof, or what? thanks and hope your summers are grand! cat -- who is discovering that she has a nasty leak SOMEWHERE near her water main underneath the new garden that she just put in (groan). So I cut four-foot long lengths of 4-inch white pipe, drilled 3/4 holes through it the whole way down, at 4-inch intervals, and inserted it down through the dirt, to hopefully dry things up! Cheap and dirty solution -- hopefully it will buy me a year or so (laugh).

I have a suggestion that i haven't seen here yet. I have seen sandboxes with a frame made of 6" PVC drain pipe, witha tarp that was about 3' bigger all around. This alowed the tarp to sag inside the frame, to be filled with sand, and still be anchored with plastic tent stakes around the outside of the frame. This sandbox is non- toxic, and easy to move if neccessary. Just wait until the glue drys, before putting it out for the kid(s) to play in. The tarp will need to be replaced about once a year, and you can poke holes in it for drainage if you want to keep it from becoming a pond :) You can also cover it with another tarp.

Yes, this is important. One to meet most local codes the other simple to protect the wire. I always dig my trenches this deep. You can use a sharp shoter, but 65' is a long way to had dig. You could rent a ditch witch and be done in no time. Luckly my boss has one fo rus to use. Robert

Hi, I'm building a hutch for a rabit, and I was wondering if anyone knew whether it would be ok to treat the wood against weathering and rain (both on inside and out) or whether this will harm/poison the rabbit? Please let me know. stu.

Hi everyone! This is my first post here - my boyfriend and I are redoing our bedroom and I need some advice! We ripped up our ancient avacado green carpet on Friday and discovered even more ancient navy blue and pink tile - it's either linoleum or vinyl, I'm not sure. Well, as I was taking up the carpet tack strips, I discovered that the nails had rusted into the concrete (and shattered the tiles, too). When I popped them out, big chunks of the concrete came out also. I'm in the process of taking up all the old tiles and I'd like to eventually paint the concrete with a faux stone finish, but I've got to repair it and get the adhesive up first. So, here are my questions - 1. How can I get the adhesive up? It's jet black and solid as a rock - I have no idea what it is. I know it's at least 30 years old for sure. Will it be possible to get it off?? 2. How can I repair the holes in the concrete? The holes are a little bigger than a silver dollar, about 1/2" deep at the deepest, and evenly spaced about every 8" around the perimeter of the room. What can I do??? 3. Anyone know of a durable paint/sealer for concrete? I really want this paint job to last for a while! Any help on any of my questions would be incredibly appreciated!!!! Thanks a bunch! Serranian

I have a beat up little boat that I use to get around the lake I live on. It looks bad but runs great, that is until about 6 weeks ago when it sunk in a storm. The boat was still tied to the dock so the motor never went under water. This is an outboard, 115 Evenrude. There is NO water in the gas tanks. I have completly changed out the gas lines. It still won't start. It sounds like it will but it just won't turn over. Everything looks (to me anyway) and sounds as though it should start. I really think this is something simple. Could someone please help me to fiqure this out? Thanks, Jayne

Hi Ya'll Is there a trick to keep from adhereing oneself to the vinyl tile while in progress?

I excepted this from somewhere a while back - I should have noted who wrote it - it was a woman who had been diagnosed with a terminal illness - happened to run across it tonight, and was feeling very thankful - so I thought I'd share it - Although she was an 'artist' I feel that everyone who is creative in some fashion is an artist so it fits all of you! Life is like being on a train where you don't know your stop. The conductor comes down the aisle and says: "You're off at the next." Any breathless protest about the precious gift of life or the "yet to do's" are of little avail. Work and fresh ideas could soon be left for those who still hold onto health. "So much to do, so little time," takes on added urgency. There seems no antidote. Station by station we all shamble toward this greatest of mysteries. Let it be said that we are grateful for whatever life we have. Let's be thankful that we still do what we can. Let's be aware of the joy that art brings to others as well as to ourselves. Let's be thankful for all of the fields and forests we have tramped, for spring-times we have inhaled and autumn leaves we have raked. Let's be thankful for the privilege to go into that magical room for the purpose of making things. Let's be glad that we often worked in times of peace and that our minds were always full of projects. Let us thank our hands while they still work, our eyes while they still see, our minds while they still conceive and dream. Let us never for a moment hide our talents under a bushel. Help us to remember that while we may not go on, what we create will.

I am getting new furniture and when I moved the old tables I have those nasty deep grooves in the carpet. Does anyone have a technique for lifting the pile? Thanks for any help you can offer:-) Susan

This may sound to some as though they are communicating with someone with a sever case of hardening of the arteries, but if our finances permitted us to be gone for several weeks during the winter months, we would find it a hoot to go from place to place with our cargo trailer and tools in tact assisting others in their endeavors. I've never met a strange in my life, though I have met some rather strange people over the years. Liz's "Big Old House" sounds like a real challenge worth the effort. My most memorable experience with old buildings was an art gallery made from a converted tea ware house in Newburyport, Mass. The building was constructed around 1740 and some of the beams were salvaged masts from sailing vessels. The strip out and reconstruction of the main floor took nearly two years. When we went back to New England several years ago it was much as I had left it except the other two floors had now been converted in to studios and it is still used as an art gallery. I removed five different ceilings before getting down, or should I say up, to the original beams on the main floor. I'll have to tell you the rest of the story and how it effected the entire town some time. Dale

Hopefully I can explain my question properly. I have a walkout basement that occasionally has water seep through the walls. I used Drylock and the problem is barely there, but I'm fixing it for the long run. What I did was build something like a French drain with bricks & morter that channels water about an inch or so along the wall, and I let gravity run the water outside. We haven't had much rain the the northeast lately, so I've never seen if it really works. My question is, I would love to pour something in that space to help level off what's behind the brick, and also raise it an inch or 2. I know I could use that cement leveler, but that's pretty expensive. I'll probably put drylock in there but that won't really raise the level or even it out so it's easy to keep clean and dry. Does anyone have any other ideas? Can I water down regular cement a little so it will flatten out? Is there something else I could pour in there that might work? Thanks, Jerry

Now, now -- the only doses from the labs are good doses--of whatever it is! Besides, I work there now, so I can't say anything! Thanks for reminding me that I can tape the wire. That'll make me feel better--I had visions of trying to splice. HD has no knowledge of a 15-inch diameter gasket. Will have to call a lighting specialty store. -- Mary M. Definately not glowing in.... Oak Ridge, TN

The electrical part is not a concern The thing I need to understand, which I have never done before, is putting wires underground I am hoping for a website or some book something that will give me a step by step guide on how to run wires underground to the shed Is there a "For Dummies" book on this?

Just a quick update on my regrouting project in the master bath, which has major tile (up the walls and tub surround including overhead in tub area). A while back, Reed suggested getting a little hand grout saw, which I used for about 2 minutes before deciding that I needed MORE POWER. So, off I went to HD to get a dremmel. Now, I'm really cooking on the project. Of course, now that I'm digging the old grout out, half of the tiles are falling off the walls. Lesson learned: put towels on the floor! Fortunately, only one broken tile so far. Starting to tackle the tub area and am finding no major water damage behind the tile (yet), but it is damp. Didn't see any backer board back there, just wood (bath was built in the 50s). Also there is a gap between the wood and the tub behind the tile, which I may fill with caulk or something prior to replacing the tile. Oh, BTW, there is a recessed overhead light in the tub enclosure. While changing the light bulb, I noticed that the rubber gasket is brittle and the about two inches of insulation around the wiring from the socket is decayed and flaking. I've not used the light because it seems unsafe. Ideas? Should I fix, replace, ? -- Mary M. Oak Ridge, TN

Hello everyone, I have not been on here in quite awhile. We have been very busy remodeling; sheetrocking, tearing out old carpet, scraping popcorn off ceiling, installing new doors, pulling out kitchen cabinets, painting and staining. Everything has been going fine, just a lot of work. But now I need help. We are having new cabinets built, they are made out of maple (white maple). The cabinetmaker builds them but does not stain them. He gave us some pieces of the maple to test stain, we can not keep it from being spotty. This is such a mess, we tried just stain (Minwax), we tried a wood conditioner (Minwax) then stain, we tried different colors of stains. Nothing is working. It all looks spotty, as one friend told us it looks like we are trying to camouflage paint it. Does anyone have any ideas on what we can do? I would like them to be a cherry color, but at this point just about anything would be fine. If any one can help with this I would be forever grateful!!!!!!! Sherri

Hi all, I'm wondering what the best way is to tear down lath & plaster ceilings? Our basement was finished off at one time and has lath & plaster ceilings. I want to re-wire the house and need to start by tearing town these ceilings so I can access the stud cavities. Anyone have any good ideas? I was just going to beat at it with a sledge/crowbar. Thanks for any insight... Shane

Thanks mr_bimbo for sharing..... If not for your input I wouldn't have known this group was chock full of women. If you aren't getting what you need here, move on. Gracefieldkennel, I'd check with my lawyer about suing for negligence. Using a tarp would have prevented damage, clean up costs, and now your motel/hotel bills. Wendy

Help? I need to get information on Wooden Pools--any comments on them or where I could find directions on how to build one? I need to get information on Wooden Pools--any comments on them or where I could find directions on how to build one? We had a contractor who was going to put one in for us and then called and said that he double-booked himself, so he couldn't do ours now. My Mom's health is going down quickly because she is unable to put pressure on her legs, so we are needing to put in a pool that she can swim in to help her get some much needed excercise. I have talked to several pool companies and others and so far can't find anyone else who can give me any help. Desperate for any answers in IL! Dawn greatdeals@...

I have a 91 Silverado, and the brake line is leaking on the drivers side in the rear. Is there anything I should be looking for when I change this line? Also, is there any warnings of what not to do when I change them? Thanks in advance. MC Kent

Has anyone ever heard of Humidex, and if so, does anyone know about the efficacy? I need to lower the humidity in my basement, but I don't want to run 2 humidifiers because of the heat they produce. For reference, the US sales site is www.humidex.com . It supposedly pulls humidity out of the house and pulls fresh air in. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Dan Williams greatdeals@...

I'm considering options for the walls above a newly installed bathtub. Has anyone laminated fiberglass fabric to plywood walls with either polyester or epoxy resin and applied a finish? I'm having trouble finding information about this, except for boatbuilding applications. Thanks! June

I am planning to run power to my storage shed The shed is 80 feet from my home The shed is a 12 x 24 dutch barn with huge space inside I want to fill that space with power tools Are there any websites that give information, or step by step photos ? Any help appreciated

I pray that everyone had a nice day to day. It was just gorgeous here. Just came back from the fire works. A local radio station was playing patriotic songs through out the fire works. It was a good day to say the least. Again, I hope you all had a great day. MC Kent

Yes you can do that with a room AC into the wall(that is how our add on family room is done). If youare handy with electricity you can also hard wire it into the electrical system of the house (drawback is unwiring it if it needs a repair). You an either leave it there year round with a cover over it on the outside for insulation in the winter or pull it and have a drop in "door" that you insert from the outside (to handle the rain in the wall issue) with a seal and fasten on the inside to keep crooks out. Carolyn

Oh right, and finally if its a mirror, how tall are you?

Hi, Everyone! Usually, I'm more at home discussing the merits of DeWalt vs. Milwaukee, routing techniques, or how to build a pole barn (more appropriate subjects here on the ranch...www.crookedpineranch.com). Admittedly, I feel much more comfortable with a tractor than an automobile. My 1991 Chevy Blazer...a farm truck really...decided to die an early death. I have been led to believe that the problem is the alternator. Replacements are available here in the area, but I don't even have a clue as to how involved a job I am talking about here. Is this something that a relatively-handy person can replace or is this something that should be left to a professional? Any advice (be brutal...lol) will be appreciated. Thanks, Hugh

Hi all, Where is a good place to shop online for ceramic floor tile? I'd like to shop by color and price. iFloor doesn't seem to have much of a selection :( Thanks, Gina

Hi. I just put in a small whirlpool spa in a second floor master bath. It replaced a regular tub. The spa sits on the plywood/OSB flooring. As I feared, when the pump it running it couples the sound through the floor and the ceiling of the room below. I want to fix this before I do the finish work on the flooring around the spa. I can tip it up and place something between it and the floor, but I'm not sure what. Fiberglass insulation? Some kind of foam padding? Each thing I try will require draining and re-filling the spa, so I'd like to get it right the first time! Thanks, David

We are in the process of touching up and finishing the baseboards that we recently put into our home. Some of the things that I know this will include are patching the nail holes and touching up the pain around them as well as sanding where two pieces meet and touching up that paint as well. My question really is how to deal with the space between the wall and the baseboard. It seems that there are two different problems. In some places the baseboard material is slightly warped and pulls away from the wall and in other places the wall is out of plumb. Should I seal the top of the baseboard with a silicone product? Do I do the same thing at the bottom of the baseboard in the bathroom? Thanks! Jon

Susan, We got some help from someone who used to work at an art gallery. The rule of thumb he used was 36 inches from the ceiling -- or, in cases where the ceiling is sloped, 36 inches from the floor. It may look different at first, but it's the right height for most people standing and looking at it. In large rooms, create a few different spaces to group art in. It helps create interesting nooks with their own personality (but always make sure the whole room blends together). And, don't be afraid to add things in unusual places. It might look great. Good luck Allison www.renovatorsplace.com

Jim, Sam's Club sells a gallon-sized container of Odor-Ban for pet odors. I believe it has enzymes that destroy the odors, and you can use it in your carpet shampooer or on bare floors. It used to sell for $9.99. Good luck! Bonna

Can anyone tell me if there is a good way to determine the height at which to hang a picture or mirror? Since there are so many different "eye levels", I wondered if there was a good rule of thumb to follow. Thanks. Susan

Hello, I posted this in another group, but thought that maybe someone here could lend a hand. I thought I would start here with this question and hopefully a member could answer me about this. I am looking at the miller 175 amp. mig welder, and the lincoln 175 sp plus welder and wondering which to buy? The pros of the miller are the wire is only live when you pull the trigger, it has tip short out protection, but is pretty much the same everywhere else. The cons are the aluminum adapter kit and controller are about a $650. option. The lincolns pros are the aluminum adapter kit is only $60. The cons are that it doesnt have the other features that the miller does. Can someone give me a little guidence? I will mostly be welding mild steel about 3/16 thick, but might have use for the other features of welding aluminum and stainless. Thanks for any help, AJ

I just bought a house with a bunch of old air conditioners sticking through various walls throughout the house. I want to replace them all, but here's my question.....2 of the rooms are small and only need a 5000 or 6000 BTU unit. From what I've seen, small units are only made for window installation. Is there any mechanical(or other) reason that a "window unit" CAN'T be installed permanantly through the wall? I know bigger units made for that purpose have a sleeve that is installed first and then the unit slides into it (and out for easy maintenance), but other than the fact that it may be a pain to take it out if something is wrong with it, can I install one of these units through the existing opening in the wall without any problems? By the way, the room that I'm talking about has two windows that open from the bottom out with a crank so there's no chance of putting anything in the window. Thanks for any advice!!!

Does anyone know of a web sight or have access to plans for building a pic-nic table? I would like somethng that is "not" a traditional table. Something more like the octogon tables or other degsiens(sp). Thanks in advance. MC Kent

I need to get information on Wooden Pools--any comments on them or where I could find directions on how to build one? We had a contractor who was going to put one in for us and then called and said that he double booked himself, so he couldn't do ours now. My Mom's health is going down quickly because she is unable to put pressure on her legs, so we are needing to put in a pool that she can swim in to help her get some much needed excercise. I have talked to several pool companies and others and so far can't find anyone else who can give me any help. Desperate for any answers in IL! Dawn greatdeals@...

Liz Wrote: personally I hate working on wires that are hot!! You just can't touch them LOL . But Liz, it puts such a spark in your life and just consider what it saves in hair dressers. Dale

Hi. We are re-painting our apartment and would like to use the most non-hazardous, fume-free paint we can get. Are there particular names or brands that we should be asking for? Thanks, Wil

I'm having a outdoor party for my daughters graduation later today , any ideas/help with not spending alot of money in keeping the mosquitoes away ... have the cordella candles ... Thanks , Marty

Hello DIY'ers, My name's Dave Harnish, and I own/operate Dave's Repair Service here in NE PA, USA. I'd like to invite you to help celebrate my 30th anniversary in the appliance service industry by subscribing to the DRSNews email newsletter! A recently begun little project, the DRSNews delivers money-saving appliance maintenance tips, manufacturer news, latest safety recall information, and much more, straight to your email inbox once each month, and it's absolutely FREE! (We've wanted to publish some type of newsletter to our customers for many years, and are thrilled to finally have the chance, as well as to send it to anyone else who might be interested!) Just email us: drs@... with "Subscribe DRSN" in the "subject" line and your name in the message text. Thanks, and God bless you all, Dave's Repair Service New Albany, PA drs@... (570-363-2404)

We are in the process of building a deck. And are discussing why we need to use deck boards. Is there a good alternative Or is deck boards the only way to go? thanks in advance for your help Evelyn

In purchasing a replacement water heater (storage type), we were confronted with the choice of various estimated lifes -- anywhere from 3 to 12 years. It seemed worth paying up if we could defer the inconvenience of the next replacement. However our plumber told us that, all other things being equal, the only difference between two equivalent models with different "lifes" is the warranty provided by the manufacturer. Other than that, the models do not differ in construction. If that's the case, then obviously the purchase of a model with an "extended" warranty seems a poor investment. Can anyone with knowledge give me their take on this? - Harry

I just bought a Black & Decker Mitre-Mate No. 79-012-04, Type I, from a garage sale. I need the operator manual in order to reassemble the unit and to know how it works. Charley

Wanted to wish all the dads out there a very happy fathers day. You know, it really doesn't matter what the kids make us put up with, a day like this really makes me thankful, that I am a dad. Yes, there has been the ups and downs, but I am so blessed to have all my kids. I love them all and honestly wouldn't have a clue what to do without them! As far as my father, I have been really blessed to have known him too. He has shown me the reason for all the things that are important! Such as, it's ok to lose your cool sometimes. When you love your kids, they are worth making fools of yourself! It doesn't matter how much money you make, or what you do. It's really just you, that is important. To be able to learn the importance of standing your ground, even when everyone else is doing it. Teaching that it's ok to question everything, but at times, you still need to just go along anyways. Without kids, we would never know what a blessing it is to be a father. Without dads, we would never understand the need to follow someone and learn from. Grand kids, well, their just the iceing on the cake. God made them, so when we get old, we have someone to play with. Again, Happy Fathers Day. MC Kent

I have recently resubbed to this list as part of my *very* long journey rebuilding my 110 year old cottage. I have a couple of questions if anybody can help me : Ceiling colours : My dilemma is re colour. The main house will have butter yellow walls, the remaining bedrooms various colours - I have had conflicting advice about the benefits of white ceilings v same colour as the walls perhaps with half tones. Perhaps the yellow ceiling is okay for the main house but what about the olive green bedroom for example. The floors are dark wood. Bathroom order of things : Generally speaking, does replastering happen after you install fixtures and fittings like new sinks. What about cabinets - do they generally get installed afterwards. TIA Trudy in Australia

Next year we are planning on remodeling our kitchen. The house was built in 1910 and I think it may still have the original cabinets. At least they look really old, I have a potato bin. Does any one know of any sites that you can plan you new floor plan? I am wanting to get as much info/planning done before hand. Thanks!

i have a flowerbed with about 20 roses in them. some of them smell quite fantastic. i was wanting to know how i can turn my cuttings of the flowers into potpourri. is it as simple as letting them dry out somewhere? any help with this would be appreciated. also if there is anything else i can do with the roses, please let me know. tia, phil

I just spent a marvelous hour scraping old glazing from some of the windows in my studio (there are 182 panes to reglaze just in that room!) I am not charring nearly as many with my propane torch, but I'm getting better, and I just found out that there is a 'pencil' tip for my torch which will be a purchase soon!! Anyway, I wondered if #48 in this list would work for me? and where do I get Caustic Soda?? and will it hurt the wood? thanks! Liz FIFTY SECRET SINGLE INGREDIENT FORMULAS 1. Tile Cleaner - deodorized Kerosene. 2. Ant Killer - Trichlorethelene. 3. Carbon Remover - Kerosene. 4. Spot Remover - Carbon tetrachloride. 5. Battery Anti-Corrode - Vaseline. 6. Rug Cleaner - Tri-Sodium phosphate. 7. Paint Brush Cleaner - Ammonia. 8. Fire Extinguisher - Carbon tetrachloride. 9. Label Cement - Egg White. 10. False Teeth Stickem - Agar Agar. 11. Window Cleaner - Tinted Carbon Tetrachloride. 12. Iron Casting Crack Filler - Molten sulphur. 13. Cockroach Exterminator - Borax. 14. Furniture Polish - Liquid paraffin. 15. Mirror Polish - Vinegar. 16. To Make Liquor Taste Smooth - tablespoon of Glycerin to quart. 17. Painted Surface Cleaner - Tri sodium phosphate. 18. Linoleum Preserver - Linseed oil. 19. Foot powder - Starch. 20. Sunburn Lotion - Peanut oil. 21. Hand Cleaning Powder - Borax. 22. Anti-Perspiration Lotion - Alum in water. 23. Brake Fluid - Caster Oil. 24. Radiator Cleaner - Tri sodium phosphate. 25. Hinge Lubricant - Graphite. 26. Nail Bleach - Hydrogen peroxide. 27. Silk Stocking Preserver - 1 oz. Alum in 1 quart water. 28. Toilet Deodorant - Formalin (38%) in water. 29. Gasoline Additive - Napthalene crystals, 1 oz. to 5 gallons. 30. Type cleaner - Carbon tetrachloride. 31. Tree Wound Dressing - Lanolin. 32. Bermuda Grass Killer - Carbon Bisulphide. 33. Solution to keep flies from screens - Rub screen with kerosene. 34. Ground Mole Control Powder - Black pepper, placed liberally in runs. 35. Moth Control Powder - Napthalene crystals. 36. Invisible Ink - Lemon juice, heat paper over stove to show writing. 37. Tooth Powder - Bicarbonate of soda. 38. Carbon Remover - Hydrogen peroxide, run engine fast, add slowly. 39. Frosted Window Paint - Super saturated solution of Epsom salts. 40. Crack Filler - Molding plaster in water. 41. Bronze Finish for Copper - Immerse in hot solution copper nitrate. 42. Windshield Anti-Fog - Glycerin. 43. Dishwashing Detergent - Tri sodium phosphate. 44. Silverware cleaner - paste of Bicarbonate of soda and water. 45. Brass Cleaner - 1 oz. Roche alum to 1 pt. Water; article to be warm. 46. Zinc Cleaner - Kerosene. 47. Tool Rustproof Solution - Coat of boiled linseed oil allowed to dry. 48. Old Putty Softener-Remover - Caustic soda solution; apply, set 1 hour. 49. Filing Lubricant - Chalk on file will make it file a smoother finish. 50. Gasoline Joint Sealer - Rosin soap applied in/around joint. For more FREE articles VISIT OUR FREE LIBRARY! QualityBooks.com

I am attempting to replace the light fixture on a ceiling fan I have. I got the old one off just fine, but in doing so, discovered that the fan is not hooked up to the circuit breaker (yes, I have tried turning everything off and it really is not hooked up). I removed the cover of the box closest to the fan and saw that a bunch of splicing had been done in there, so I am thinking that I have inherited some shoddy work done before by a previous owner. Finally, I live in a condo, so I do not have a main breaker. During my walk into the office this AM, I saw that there are main breakers on the outside of the building, but I would rather not go through the hassle of trying to get permission from the association to let me flip it. So, now I have the old fixture off, but cannot put the new one on without zapping myself! Is there any way that I can cut the power so that I can finish the job? Thanks! --n8

Hello Club.... In my bath, I cut a piece of plywood 3/4in thick and attached it to the wall. Afterwards I attached 12in mirror tiles on top, and noticed that I now have a 3/4inch border to trim, and that some of the mirror tiles now protrude slightly past the plywood. Does anyone have any ideas as how I should trim this mirror besides using wood moldings? THANKS EVERYONE!!!!!!!

Hopefully, someone knowing the tricks can help me with what should (please??) be a simple fix. The toilet water supply joint is leaking. It had been an occasional leak that I had thought came from someone not sealing off the shower, or my little one playing in the sink. I think I had seen water maybe three times in the last year. Yesterday I saw more water...of course reprimanded the four year old, then had to apologize when I figured out what the problem really was (besides my jumping to conclusions!). I've got copper piping, and replaced the entire valve assembly, so it isn't the valve. My gut feeling is that someone overtightened the compression fitting at some point. When I disassembled it, there were some grooves right where the compression bushing lives. I lightly sanded the tubing, and then put on a new fitting and all, but am still getting a drip/leak. What should I do? It looks like I have about 3/4" of length to play with. What about cutting about 1/4" or so off the end of the pipe so the new compression bushing sits back further? Or, (against the instructions...) should I put a little teflon tape there? Thanks, Bob

i am interested in drilling holes in glass/ceramic containers to build lamps. however, i am unsure on the best procedure for drilling in glass and am not able to get any assistance at the hardware stores regarding this. any information will be greatly appreciated. ch

The problem with continuous loop carpeting seems to result from the adhesive backing that is used to hold the looped strands in place. I have seen this condition when the loops pull through and it always has appeared that the adhesive was of very poor quality. Whether this is partially due to climate or perhaps chemicals that may have been used during cleaning I do not know, but once the strands start to become loosened there does not appear to be any cure except replacement. Dale

Hello all, I have just resubbed to this list after a break. Can anybody steer me in the right direction re bathroom renovations? I am doing a complete bathroom remodel including removal of a wall etc. Generally speaking, does replastering come after putting new sinks, baths etc in. And does anybody know specifics / tips about wet area plaster issues? TIA Trudy

Hi all, I'm a new member and new homeowner, We move in in several weeks, but the carpet is a disaster, stained and out of the 50's. I plan on tearing it up and putting down a basic beige berber. My question is basically this: are there any good resources that will show me how to do it? I have a general idea, and a friend who has some knowledge but I'm one of those people who want to know everything about it before I start, to make sure that I don't muck it up. Thanks muchly for the help! Tom

We're about to take apart our kitchen and will be removing the ceramic tile floor. Are there any tricks to make this go faster other than using a chisel and lots of muscle?? Thanks! Allison www.renovatorsplace.com

I have watched with some degree of interest all the discussion about asbestos and its supposed dangers. If this stuff was just half as dangerous as some would claim, most of us who were in the services and especially those who lived on ships for months on end, would have died years ago. The walls (bulkheads), ceilings (overheads), most of the plumbing (piping) was coved with several layers of asbestos fiber, cloth, slurry or paint. It was used for insulation because it would not burn. Every time you worked on any of the multitude of systems that required the disturbance of pipes, cables or panels to attain access to pipes or electrical cables, you would be covered in the stuff. Face masks, what were those? The dangers imposed by asbestos has a lot more to do with deep pockets and attorneys than it does with the health dangers imposed. It will be interesting to see what the next out break might be, but you can bet your bottom dollar that there will be some attorney behind the drive. You can also rest assured that the scope of the danger will be directly proportional to the net worth of the manufactures and suppliers. They have used up, asbestos, silicone implants (with no scientific certification what so ever) but that didn't matter when the big bucks were concerned. Tobacco which is a matter of personal choice (I've smoked a pipe for over 50 years and if it kills me I've no one to blame except myself), besides we all have to die from something and I kind of like being in control of my own destiny, so to speak. Lead based paint which had only been used for 500 years, and if it caused so much mental damage, why are there so many more idiots running around after they quit using it? They will probably go after the food industry next because too many people are either fat because their lazy, or lazy because their fat, and it is a lot more profitable to sue "General Foods" than it is to exercise a little self control. Dale

There are easy, and fairly cheap ways to determine asbestos content. Here in the San Jose area, it was about $35 to get a sample tested. In general, if your house was built after 1977, it legally *shouldn't* be containing asbestos. The levels were gradually diminished from the late 60's until then. Some earlier popcorn will test at about 9% asbestos. That said... By (I think) some government (federal maybe?) standards if it contains greater than 1% asbestos, then it is legally classified as containing asbestos - as a "hazardous material". But in talking to some removal companies (and some web readings), a homeowner can still remove it yourself even if it is higher than that...it is just disposal that is the real issue - must go to a haz mat site, bagged and tagged in a specific manner. But if you are a contractor, the laws are a bit different (or for a public building). I don't recall the specific issues, but if you are a contractor, and don't do it by the book, the fines are mighty big. There may be state and local laws for you, and you have to check that out for your locale. Asbestos is dangerous, but at what exposure levels, it still isn't known. If you are going to do the removal yourself, it really isn't hard. But prep and cleanup are really what you need to pay attention to if you are to do it the RIGHT way. And to document how you did it, and what you did so that if someone (a future buyer) wants to know why your house doesn't have the popcorn that contains asbestos, and all of the others in the neighborhood do...you can prove you removed it without contaminating the house. Yes, that is the *conservative* route to DIY in this case, but then again, the removal cost in this area is well over $2000 for a 1500 sq-ft house. And that doesn't count any re-texturing. A little extra work and effort are well worth not losing a sale over the issue. Do do it "right": Prep for you: - disposable clothing (head to toe), or something you can rinse off. - respirator (filter type that will filter asbestos fibers, not those little white painters masks). Prep for the room: - It is preferrable to have the room ventilated to the outside, using a hepa type filtration system if you have that or can rent it. - "double bag" the room walls and flooring with plastic sheeting. Put it up so that you can simply fold in the top layer with minimum effort. - Spray down the popcorn with a mixture of water and dish soap. I used a garden sprayer. Get it pretty wet. Make sure to get the corners (tape areas) well. They tend to be stubborn. - Sometimes you might want to re-spray if it starts to dry out. - Using an 18" drywall knife, just scrape it down. For the most part, when wetted properly, it comes right down. One thing we did on the one room we have done so far was to scrape it directly into a garbage bag. Less to get airborne that way. - Re-wet stubborn areas and finish the scraping. - Gently fold the upper layer of plastic sheeting in, trapping all of the popcorn inside. Bag it in 6 mil plastic bags (the requirements I saw in CA were for double bagged in 6 mil bags, with specific labeling requirements). - With a wet sponge, wash down the ceiling and remaining plastic. Fold it all in and bag as in the previous step. - Then with a new wet sponge, clean the walls of the room. You are then ready to re-texture. All that said, in some cases, it is easier to slap new drywall over the old. This can be a bit of a hassle, and will probably disturb some asbestos fibers as well in that process. With 8' ceilings in my house, I don't want to lose another 1/2"! Oh yeah...don't do it on a hot day. I did mine in the middle of winter (well, it was still 65 degrees here), but in a room with little to no air circulation. Head to toe plastic covering me, and a respirator...and climbing up and down a step ladder...you get pretty sweaty. You will spend more time prepping and cleaning than scraping...but that's why they charge you so much to come in and do it. I don't doubt that I left something out...do some web searching on asbestos removal. I am by no means an expert (nor do I play one on TV). That was just what I found in talking to some of the removal people, as well as searching numerous web sites for info. Nothing beats doing your own research and weighing the bulk of what you find. Besides, you will have to find what you locals laws say about it all. Good luck. Bob

We want to put in either a fireplace or wood stove. We like the look of the old rustic fireplace, but have been told that nothing beats the heat of a good wood stove. Any opinions on which is better? And has anyone ever built their own fireplace? I have looked on the web and found very little on the topic. Jessica

In another group I am involved with, All Around Handyman, someone wrote and asked for advice in finding studs behind double-hung walls. It got me to thinking------has anyone HERE ever found studs behind their walls? I had to write back to the list with my great advice: When I was younger, MUCH younger, I looked for studs at the local bars. As I grew and matured, I started looking for studs in better places, such as the work place. Then I grew even wiser, and started looking for them in social circles I am involved in and activities I enjoy. But as for finding them behind walls-----no, never thought of looking there! ;-) Now folks, I know I have done some griping about this silly house on a hill and all the problems with it. But let me say here and now-----if there's studs in "them there walls", I am tearing me out some TODAY! ;-) Smile! Jessica ps After much contemplation, sitting with hammer in hand, I have decided this-----if there really ARE studs in my walls, they are probably there for a reason, and I should just leave them alone. Most likely, I am a "better sort" than they, since they must live in the walls, and I am just not ready to settle........if ya know what I mean! :-0

Hi everyone: So we bought this 45 year old house with a 5 year old (or 10) shake roof. Is that what they're called? A wooden roof. It looks pretty good, except that some of the shakes curl up a bit, and an entire section of the roof underneath a tree has about 1/2 inch of moss on it. I figured that I'd climb up there this year and brush off the moss and then put moss off onto it when it starts to rain this year, but a guy dropped by my house with a flyer. He's trying to get me to pay him $3,000 to pressure wash my roof and add chevron oil of some sort, which will condition the roof (it IS very dry looking). He will also repair all of the curled shingles and the oil has an anti-moss thing in it. Our house is big, about 3500 square feet, so it' sa big roof. My contractor tells me that it will cost me 25K to replace it, so I should take good care of it. On the other hand, 3K is a lot of money. Have any of you conditioned your roof yourselves? Or is it just worth it to get all of the shingles replaced and a guarantee for 5 years? BTW, I'm home with a toddler all day and my husband has told me that I am NOT ALLOWED to work on the roof <laugh point.) thanks for any advice. cat

Currently landscaoping my yard and need to find out how to kill a tree stump. Tree was cut down long before we moved here, but I keep getting sprouts and weeds growing out of it. is there any way to stop this. I want to cover that area with weed block and decorative stone, but can't do it until I solve this other problem. Thanks Ed

I am wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of odors in a house that lurks even though its been sold to a new owner.

OK I've about had it. I'm trying to remove wallpaper that must be up with cement. I've scored it really good. I've tried a chemical stripper. I've used the hot shot steamer. I've tried vinegar and water mix. The top layer kinda comes off then I have to do it again to remove the paper backing that stays. Is there an easier way? Should I rent a professional steamer? Should I hire someone? Sandy (who is sorry she decided to remove wallpaper in 3 rooms)

Dale, Many thanks for the great advice on my butcher block problem! This is my first attempt at this site and appreciate the quick response. I now know where to come for those sticky problems I encounter from time to time:-) Susan

I have an island with a butcher block top that is in need of stain removal and/or sanding due to stains. First, I'd like to know if there is a safe product (since this is used for food prep) or natural remedy to lighten stains on this surface? If sanding is needed how do I finish off the surface afterwards? Thanks for any help you can offer me. Susan

Hello, I am new at the club. I am a master electrician by trade. I am a major do it myself person. I just finished a pain of a painting project. I painted by doors talk about a real pain. Welcome John! I envy your electrical expertise! While I will tackle just about any project, from wood to cement,and from flooring to roofing, electrical makes me a wee bit nervous. I am hoping when electrical projects come up round here we can call on our friend who is quite accomplished at this, and my confidence will rise with experience. In the meantime, welcome and we look forward to picking your electricians brain ! ;-) Kathie

I have an idea...maybe someone else has done something like this. Background: We have (about) 5 year old berber. Not in the best condition (our house was a rental before we bought it). We had it cleaned once, and that company did pretty well. Then we had a nightmare carpet cleaner experience a few weeks ago. As I have heard others say, that it looks dirtier now than before we had it cleaned (two weeks later). It looked marginally cleaner after they cleaned it, and they left it really wet. I've been cautioned with berber carpet, that the home cleaners (Bissell and Hoover) leave too much moisture in the carpet, causing 1) mold growth, and 2) getting dirty (much like what happened with us) quickly. So I had this idea: I've got this monster air compressor (it is a Craftsman, 30 gallon tank, it'll do over 6 cfm at 90 psi). Is there some way I can make a fixture to assist in pulling up moisture? Maybe make a takeup out of an old wet/dry vac thing, put an input from the compressor on the hose...and then have my wife hit the carpet with the cleaner, and I will follow with the contraption to suck out any remaining moisture? Any inputs...or "you are crazy" comments are welcome. Maybe I just need to try it out. Thanks, Bob

Good Evening Folks My name is Ruth, better known as either RustyJo, or RuthieJo, or RuthieDoyle, I'm not sure how I'm going to come out on this list. I live in NW Texas, just at the bottom of the PanHandle. My brother and I moved here last Nov. after my Dad passed away in Oct. I inherited his old Tool Yard. Used hand tools, odds and ends of junk, and thousands of brand new drill bits. I'm a beginner, and my biggest project right now, is putting a new roof on a building that's older than Christmas it's self. The roof is so old, that it doesn't have plywood like most buildings do, it has what I call shiplap, then shingles were put over that. The shingles are almost all gone now. The building has needed a roof for about fifteen years from what I've heard. It's rotted thru in several places, and when it rains, I have to put buckets under the holes. I'd like to put a metal roof on it. North West Texas has quite a few hail storms I hear. We had a small one today. the first since I've been here. It snowed about four or five times this past winter though, and I scooped snow off of counters. The building is aprox. 25' wide and 90' long. the apex of the ceiling in the main part of the shop is 15 1/2 feet high, then there's an attic above that. I'm not sure how tall that is. Another project later in the fall, will be replacing a dozen windows, and window frames. The frames are so rotten, that some of them turn to dust when you touch them. The windows are rounded at the top (use to be a church), and have all dropped down at least three inches at the top. Incidently this building is being held together by two heavy twisted wires, with huge eye bolts. The wires to from one side of the building to the other, and are so tight, that they haven't even sagged a hairs breath. The ceiling replacement will come some time next spring, I hope. I'll send photos tomorrow, and maybe some of you will be kind enough to give me some suggestions. RuthieJo Want to SAVE up to 80% on Dental Services and up to 60% on Vision Care, and help others do the same, and have a THRIVING Home Based Business, with monthly income, and work as many or as few hours as you want. ASK ME HOW 1-877-354-1195 free call from anywhere in USA

Hi there: Can anyone recommend an electric door planer for occasional use? Patrick

Do any of yu have any experience with garage floor paint? I know about epoxy paints and have heard that these are the best. Do you have any brand preference? A friend says he like the UGL garage floor paint, which is an acrylic latex. I doubt that it's as good as an epoxy paint. Thanks!

I need some help! I want to do a ceramic tile mosaic on a bathroom floor, but I would like to attach it to something before I glue it to the floor...I was thinking of using some kind of mesh, but I don't know what. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance Helena

We are getting estimates on having our wood floors refinished in a 95-year-old house. As you'd expect, there are spaces between some of the boards. One company said they will fill in the spaces, while the other 2 said they won't because the wood fill won't stay, due to expansion and contraction. Isn't there a way to fill in the small gaps? Can't you use something other than wood fill? Who is right? Thanks! Allison www.renovatorsplace.com

BTW----we just moved here from Houston last year. I miss it terribly, although I must admit KY is much more beautiful! ;-) And whatever happened to Reeder who use to be on this list? I came across a "Reeder Construction" here in KY-----could it be him? Jessica

We are tearing off the roof and adding a second story. We are reusing the trusses already there. Our home is constructed with trusses and the house is 30' wide by 50' long. The living spaces inside will be divided straight down the middle, with bedrooms on one half (15' x 50') and common areas on the other half (15 x 50'). For the ceiling, I would like the center 20' to be a vaulted ceiling. Since the house is being divided down the center, and I only want the area over the living room vaulted, can't HALF of the bottom of the truss be cut off and the truss used as is? Think of a triangle with 50% of just the bottom segment missing. Since the rest of it will be secured into the dividing wall, wouldn't that lend enough stability to the rest of the roof and the cut trusses? Or do I need to buy all new trusses for the center section? Jessica

Thanks those were great, also cologate or crest (white only) can be put on bumps to dry them up. A doctor told me the best thing for a beesting is to cut a apply--But I havent personally tried it.--R

use cement board. always. under all tile. its not susceptable to moisture like wood is. if you have 3/4 subfloor, this will be all you need under tile. for walls (ie shower)don't need drywall or anything. glue the cement board right to the stud and nail it. done. ron

Hi I just wanted to say although I know nothing about dishwashers.We got anew one & it was awesome!! then we moved & it didnt do as good of a job.we moved again & now its doing better.so my theory is that the water pressure & size of pipes & tubing going to it have a lot of impact on how well your dishwasher cleans.--R

Hi Rebecca, Check inside the front of the dishwasher, under the door. - in the base of the tub section, below where the door opens (does that make sense? ) sometimes gunk gets built-up there for some reason, try cleaning it well, it's a gross job. I used to have to do it when I had a kitchenaid of all things! It was the worst dishwasher I ever owned. Liz

Hello there... I'm having a problem with my garbage disposal. The engine runs but the disposal itself doesn't work. I can hear the engine humming. Also, whenever I run the dishwasher all the water backs up through the disposal. I have tried to turn it on and off with the switch on the bottom but I think maybe the blade is stuck??? Can some one please help me? Thanks! Mimi

Yes, I think the list has slowed down recently. So for some reading material, here's an update on my current projects: 1. The deck resurfacing project. I put artificial grass down on my back deck several weeks ago. Yesterday, I tackled the seam, which, while noticably visible in places, is done. I also started nailing the edge under the bottom of the deck to finish it off. Remaining: finish nailing the edges and there is one little area along the side where I messed up and lay down a patch. 2. Bathroom remodeling: last month I removed the wallpaper. Promptly upon removal, a couple of ceramic tiles fell down (subproject A). I used joint compound to smooth down the wall. Wet sanded it. Then, a few weeks ago, I primed the wall using Kilz (it has never been painted on). Promptly noticed those areas where my wet sanding wasn't too good. So, I need to resand--with sandpaper--those areas, reprime sanded spots, and then I should be ready to paint. Subproject A--Ceramic tile fix. I cleaned the ceramic tiles that fell--only 1 broke--by chipping off the old mastic. Applied new tile mastic to the backs of all (including the broken one--I would never be able to match the color as it is too old) and put them back on the wall. I have not yet grouted. This subproject will be a good training ground for the other big bathroom project--regrouting. My grout is crumbling and I have to regrout almost everywhere. I'm afraid that once I start cleaning the old grout that many more tiles will fall off the wall, so I think I'll do horizontals first, then tackle verticals or something along those lines. As always, feel free to chime in with any words of wisdom... -- Mary M. Oak Ridge, TN

Hi. My husband and I, I am certain, have lost our minds. We bought a building in 2000 and are workign on it one tiny piece at a time. The building is all brick, built in 1924. It is 13,000 sq ft. It was a school building originally, then medical center, then township building. Now it is our home. Yep, we are making a monster into our home. We are expecting child #5 come November, so the room is greatly needed. ;-) I finally got Dh to do the bathroom. He is going to be workign on the tile here shortly. Do you have any advice or suggestions for us? Neither of us have done this before. My father will be helping, but hasn't done this either. I have called to have someone come in a do it, but the earliest anyone can come just to do it is late August, I would like this done this week. Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice! Brenda

We just purchased a home that has a water softner. It's great except the tubes lay on top of the concrete floor and go half way across the garage floor to the drainage spot. You do have to be careful when walking as it's easy to trip on the tubes thus pulling them out from the drain - . We can not make the tubes drain to another spot due to the way the driveway and etc. were installed. Is there a way to make a slot in the concret floor for the tubes to lay in to the drain spot? Any other suggestions? Thanks Sandy

We are working on the outside of our home, to which we are adding a second story. Does anyone have any opinions they would like to offer on what to put on the exterior other than vinyl siding? We are working towards a farm house look and so we are thinking about lap siding. But isn't it a great deal of maintenance? We don't like vinyl siding, but if it is TRULY as maintenance free as it is advertised, it might be a consideration. I have been told that it fades within a few years, and sometimes even warps. If you haven't noticed, we have only lived in brick and stucco and have NO clue about anything else. Opinions please. And what happened to this list? Didn't it use to be busy, busy, busy? Jessica

What kind of procedure do I need? I know there are reinforcement products out there. What do you suggest? I would like to hold a VERY large plant, or a large "row" of plants that I'll string up with wire on both sides. I imagine max weight will be 25-35 lbs., it will be outdoors on my patio, and I THINK the upper ceiling of my patio is stone with spackle on it. I live in a fifteen-year old building in Dallas, Texas, if that helps. Also, it may get windy, tornados DO pass through. Also, I want to set up a "hanging garden", so there may be several of these. I just got a drill, a 6V Black and Decker and some bits. This is my first drill. (Yay!) Anyhow, please give me some tips on handling it. And if I might need more voltage / power. Walmart didn't have the 9V version in stock. Also, I will use those S-hangers. Do I need anything else? I want to reinforce the holes, can you suggest some products? I've seen some that are self-expanding in the hole. Are these difficult to insert? Thanks again! Moon Blade

Hi Bob I enjoyed seeing the pics of your home and the ongoing reno story. My husband and I started renovating our 101 yr home 3 years ago so I understand where you are coming from. The mechanics are all done at our place- windows, siding, roof, doors, plumbing, heating and last but not least the electrical. We have now arrived at the really expensive part...the finish work. I know Roman wasn't build in a day but why do I feel like this project is going to take til the next millenium to finish this one..LOL. Good Luck with your projects Sharon

Does anyone have any experience installing hardwood floors? Is it a beginner's job, or is it quite difficult? Thanks.

I have a question. When my hubby and I go to pull a building up to our porch and enclouse the porch what would be the best way to reniforce the porch to be a floor? The porch will become the laundry/entry room.

I'm refinishing the kitchen of my 1922 house and I'm considering restoring the doorways and trim, and possible a door or two in the rest of the house, back to the original. Our living room and hallway areas all have original trim and doors with mantles and it's beautiful. Does anyone know where I should start looking to find old doors and/or trim to finish off for our house. I saw people do this on home improvement shows and thought it would be an interesting idea. Has this topic come up before? Thanks, Sarah

Is there someone familiar wit any pet safe weed killers. I have too many little critters in my backyard and do not want them ill. The weed problem has gotten past being able to pull them now and then. Ed

I have a couple trees in the yard, and they are getting a green moss on the north side of them. What is this and what can I do about it? If it won't hurt the trees great, but if it will, how do I get rid of it? Any and all responses will be greatly appreciated! MC Kent

Hi, This is my first post here and if any one knows about dry toilet system, please tell me how it works and how to build it.

--and just got the autoresponder asking me to introduce myself. Here goes: currently buying/fixing/re-selling SFRs in Santa Barbara, Ca. Have a new project we start TOMORROW. Not settled on all the design details, but we have MOLD and will be ripping out drywall by the square yard to initiate the abatement process. Also will be re-siding the stucco exterior. Not sure how to go with it: wood (T-111 plywood) or board/batten or vinyl siding. Anything will help the place, but it must be cost effective. This is a 60-day project, full-on, full-time. Also need to tear down the garage (termites) and rebuild from sole plate up. New kitchen, new bath, hoping to raise the ceilings and replace all doors and windows. Sounds like fun, eh? I probably won't have much time for my computer stuff over the next two months, but would appreciate any hints as to the easiest window replacement sources, vinyl siding people (I have Sears coming for a bid, but who knows where they find their subs), and landscaping info. Cheers!

Been on the blink and am sending this out so that I can use it to reset my message rules and folders. Had to go back to "Format (C)" and start over so you can see I've been having a ball for myself. Dale

Fixing up a stucco house. Want to put some style on the exterior. Either vinyl siding or board (plywood)& batten. COST effective are the keywords here. Which is cheaper to install (materials and labor?) I'd be doing the board/batten thing, would probably farm out the vinyl thing since I've never done it before...Any help would be truly appreciated!

Hi. I posted last week about proper steps in painting a deck. Thought I'd just ask again. Basically, I am wondering if I should put down primer first. We painted the deck last year w/o primer and it's peeling like crazy. Also, after a couple of coats of paint, should I apply some type of top coat or sealer? Any help is much appreciated. We are in Canada so the climate is quite seasonal. Thank You. Will

Hi I am Melissa McCracken in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. We bought our house 6 years ago. It was built in 1916. We have many projects in the works. Currently we are planning the repainting of the house. There is much paint peeling and some mildew. What are some opinions on using a PorterCable Power Paint Remover? I understand that using a pressure washer might create more problems and that the paint remover might be a better option. Looking forward to hearing from everyone. Melissa

Hi there just wanted to share some information and insight on water filters and how important it is to look at what is happening to our water systems. With all the problems our local governement has failed to address I don't trust our water systems any longer, and my Brita Filter is horrible because the charcol keeps escaping through the filters. Recently I did some serious homework on water filter systems and found one that is pretty incredible and I use throughout my home. I thought the system was so good that I decided to tell others about it and now I have started selling these units to whomever wants a good system. Please read below and let me know if you would like to get more info on it. Feel free to call for more information 416.788.1967. The eSpring System is the first of its kind. The first in-home system to combine a patented carbon block filter with ultraviolet light technology. The carbon block reduces over 140 potential health-related contaminants from your drinking water buts lets the beneficial minerals pass on through. The UV light controls microorganisms like viruses, including poliovirus and rotavirus, and bacteria, including E.coli and salmonella.* So the eSpring System delivers peace of mind with its great-tasting water, at almost 4 litres a minute. The countertop eSpring System is about the size of a coffee maker. It easily attaches to your existing faucet in minutes without special tools. For a lot more information on the eSpring System, including its performance and price comparison with other systems, its technology, ease of installation, and use, please visit email me at (bravenewshopper@...) or call 416.788.1967. Thanks Alan

This may be OT for this list, but my wife and kids are really bugging me for an above ground pool. Any one on the list have one? do they cost much to maintain? I'm considering a 15'x30'x52". This is the biggest I can fit in my yard and still have some room around it for a deck. I was planing on ordering a kit instead of paying someone to put it up. Robert

Thanks Kyle and Kathie! I still have problems. It appears that the lawn tractor headlight SWITCH is wired to the generator correctly. However, that's where the wiring stops! The switch has two pins. Each headlight has two pins. My question is how I wire from the switch to the headlights. Maybe I shouldn't be mowing in the dark anyway! Hugh

Hi we have no hot water. Our hot water heater is electric and stone cold. We've checked the fuses. I don't see any reset buttons on the Hot Water Heater. There are a couple of panels that appear to be screwed close. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to these things. Any ideas of where I should start. Kari

Hey folks, I tried to replace the dead bolt on my front door and ended up wearing down of the screws. How do I get the screw out now? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. GT

Hello All, I think our project has changed from putting stone on the foundation to building a deck out front. The deck would have to be close to 40 foot log and 10 foot deep. It would be 10 foot off the ground. I built the 10x20 deck out back but it was only about 20" off the ground. Is there good software for designing an elevated deck and is this something that two people can build, being that high off the ground. I have confidence in my ability to built the structure, but lifting the ledger and beams and building with them that high kinda scares me. Thoughts and advice are welcomed. Thank you. Dave

Hi, I am new to the list - sorry if this has been discussed before. I am hoping to get some advice on a project. Last year I re-painted a deck with paint (not stain) which was recommended from the hardware store for the job. The only prep work I did was to scrap most of the older paint off (the new paint was the same colour). The new paint is now peeling very badly and I would like to try to re-paint again but would appreciate any tips on making the job last this time. I plan to scrap all the old stuff off, sand it this time, and then clean it with some tsp. Should I prime it before painting ? Should I put anything over the paint? e.g., sealer? I'm not sure what type of wood it is but I believe it's some type of hardwood. I'm kind of a novice at these things so there's no need to spare any details in responding :) Thanks in advance! Will

I seem to have had an infected computer, although it may be too late to tell you, don't open anything that I send you with an attachment. I am not sending out private messages with attachments. Please make sure that you have good virus software running - I'm not sure about AVG anymore since I got this virus while it was active and running! I have reformatted my entire harddrive and installed Norton Anti-virus and it says my machine is clean, but I keep getting notices that I've sent out more virus emails - so be careful, and if I've infected you, I'm very sorry! Liz